DROPS / 149 / 22

Colour play by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS socks with displacement in 4 colours in ”Fabel”.

DROPS design: Pattern no fa-254
Yarn group A
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Size: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43
Foot length: approx. 22 - 24 - 27 cm

Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes in colour no 912, soft chocolate.
50 g for all sizes in colour no 677, green/turquoise
50 g for all sizes in colour no 911, fun lilac.
50 g for all sizes in colour no 674, heather.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 2.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 2.50 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
DISPLACEMENT:
Work every round with 4 different colours that are displaced in a spiral around the sock. To avoid cutting the strands on every round, work every other round from WS.
ROW 1 (= RS):
K all sts from double pointed needle 1 with colour no 912, K all sts from double pointed needle 2 with colour no 674, K all sts from double pointed needle 3 with colour no 911, K all sts from double pointed needle 4 with colour no 677. Turn.
ROW 2 (= WS):
P over all sts on double pointed needle 4 with colour no 677, twine the yarn with next colour, P over all sts on double pointed needle 3 with colour no 911, twine the yarn with next colour, P over all sts on double pointed needle 2 with colour no 674, twine yarn with next colour, P over all sts on double pointed needle 1 with colour no 912, pick up 1 st in last st from double pointed needle 4 from previous row, slip it on double pointed needle 1. Turn.
ROW 3 (= RS):
K the first 2 sts tog, K the rest of sts from double pointed needle 1 + first st from double pointed needle 2 with colour no 912, K all sts from double pointed needle 2 + first st from double pointed needle 3 with colour no 674, K all sts from double pointed needle 3 + first st from double pointed needle 4 with colour no 911, K all sts from double pointed needle 4 + first st from double pointed needle 1 with colour no 677. Turn.
ROW 4 (= WS):
P over all sts on double pointed needle 4 with colour no 677, twine the yarn with next colour, P over all sts on double pointed needle 3 with colour no 911, twine the yarn with next colour, P over all sts on double pointed needle 2 with colour no 674, twine yarn with next colour, P over all sts on double pointed needle 1 with colour no 912, pick up 1 st in last st from double pointed needle 4 from previous round, slip it on double pointed needle 1. Turn.
ROW 5 (= RS):
K the first 2 sts tog, K the rest of sts from double pointed needle 1 with colour no 912, K all sts from double pointed needle 2 with colour no 674, K all sts from double pointed needle 3 with colour no 911, K all sts from double pointed needle 4 with colour no 677. Turn.

Repeat row 2 to 5. Colour stripes are displaced with 1 st towards the left on every fourth round.

DECREASE TIP (applies to heel):
Work until 2 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog, marker, slip 1 st, work 1 st, psso.
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SOCK:
Cast on 72-76-80 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with colour no 912. K 2 rounds. Continue to work rib as follows: * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-*. When rib measures 4 cm, K 1 round while at the same time dec 8 sts evenly = 64-68-72 sts. Distribute sts on 4 double pointed needles = 16-17-18 sts on every needle. Then work in stocking st and displacement - see explanation above. When piece measures 10 cm, dec 1 st in every stripe from RS – dec by working the last 2 sts on every double pointed needle K tog (= 4 dec on 1 round). Adjust so that dec are done on 3rd or 5th row in pattern. Repeat dec when piece measures 15 and 20 cm = 52-56-60 sts (= 13-14-15 sts on every double pointed needle). When piece measures 23-24-25 cm, work a loose strand over the first 26-28-30 sts, sts on each side of this strand are used for heel later. On next row continue pattern as before (cut the yarn on the first 2 double pointed needles). Continue with displacement until piece measures 12-13-15½ cm from the loose strand (= approx. 5 cm remain). Insert 1 marker in each side so that there are 26-28-30 sts on top of foot and 26-28-30 sts under foot - adjust so that toe fits with strand for heel. Continue working stocking st over all sts and in the round on needle with colour no 912 while AT THE SAME TIME dec for toes on each side of the markers. Dec as follows before 1 K st and marker: K 2 tog. Dec as follows after marker and 1 K st: K 2 twisted tog. Dec like this in each side on every other round a total of 7 times and then on every round a total of 3 times = 12-16-20 sts remain on needle. On next round work all sts tog 2 by 2. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.


HEEL:
Pull out the loose strand and distribute sts from each side of strand on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm = 52-56-60 sts. Beg in the side and work as follows with colour no 912 (soft chocolate): Work over 26-28-30 sts under heel, pick up 2 new sts in the side, work over the 26-28-30 sts on the back of heel and pick up 2 new sts in the side = 56-60-64 sts. Insert 1 marker between the 2 new sts in each side. Work in stocking st, AT THE SAME TIME dec in each side – Read DECREASE TIP! - repeat dec every other round a total of 9-10-11 times = 20 sts remain on needle. Work 1 round over all sts. Cast off. Sew tog heel with grafting/kitchener sts, st against st in cast-off edge. Heel measures 5-6-6½ cm in each side. Knit another sock the same way.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 149-22) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (50)

Gisèle St-Pierre 05.08.2019 - 00:11:

Est-ce que je pourrais faire un talon double régulier à la place du vôtre (est-ce un talon appelé Afterthought) car je ne pense pas réussir à le faire, j'ai bien lu les explications et regardé vidéo et ne m'y retrouve pas, c'est dommage j'aurais appris nouvelle technique. Merci

DROPS Design 07.08.2019 kl. 10:37:

Bonjour Mme St-Pierre, je pense que pour ce type de modèle, le talon tricoté à la fin reste la meilleure alternative pour ne pas "déformer" le modèle. Quand vous arrivez au talon, tricotez les mailles du talon avec un fil d'une autre couleur et continuez comme avant. Quand la chaussette est terminée, retirez délicatement le fil, relevez les mailles de chaque côté (le rang précédent + le rang suivant) et tricotez le talon en rond en diminuant comme indiqué. Bon tricot!

Gisèle St-Pierre 04.08.2019 - 23:54:

Auriez-vous une autre vidéo pour faire talon sur fil perdu avec fils couleurs unies peut-être plus facile à comprendre je fais le patron ci-haut 149/22 et ça ne m'aide pas vu le patron utilisé dans vidéo et couleurs? Merci

DROPS Design 05.08.2019 kl. 08:16:

Bonjour Gisele! Regardez le video suivant: ICI. Bon tricot!

Madame Gisèle St-Pierre 27.07.2019 - 15:34:

Peut-on faire ce modèle sur aiguille circulaire?

DROPS Design 27.07.2019 kl. 15:52:

Bonjour Gisele! Sur les courtes peut-etre. Mais je vous conseille les aiguilles double pointes parce qu'on a pas beaucoup de mailles. Bon tricot!

Florence Loubier 11.03.2019 - 00:21:

Un très beau tricot original plein de couleurs

Murielle Wittmer 03.11.2018 - 23:26:

Bonsoir, je ne comprends pas le terme: \" croiser le fil avec la couleur suivante\"...pouvez vous m\'aider ??? je rêve de faire ce projet depuis très longtemps, je pense m\'y mettre dés maintenant mais je ne comprends pas...

DROPS Design 05.11.2018 kl. 10:48:

Bonjour Mme Wittmer, on va procéder comme pour du jacquard - cf vidéo - autrement dit on croise les fils au début de chaque bande pour que les mailles des rayures soient bien attachées entre elles sans qu'il y ait de trou. Bon tricot!

Ines 01.11.2018 - 11:13:

Hallo,ich habe ein Problem bei der Zunahme in der 2.Reihe. bei mir entsteht immer ein loch.habe verschiedene Varianten ausprobiert.was könnt ihr mir noch anbieten wie ich es am besten mache? Danke

DROPS Design 01.11.2018 kl. 14:19:

Liebe Ines, versuchen Sie aus der Masche der Vorreihe oder aus dem Querfaden. Ihr DROPS Laden kann sicher Ihnen noch mehr weiterhelfen - auch telefonisch oder per Email. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Mimi Routh 11.02.2018 - 01:10:

Extremely fiddly and tiresome. I am an excellent knitter! As written, the damned socks are two inches too short! I will finish them in my own design!

M. ZUidgeest 04.09.2017 - 19:43:

At the and of row 2 the pattern says (in dutch) neem 1 st op – neem daarvoor de laatste st van breinld zonder knop 4 van de vorige nld op en zet deze op breinld zonder knop 1. Keer. Pick up 1 stitch by taking the last stitch of dpn 4 and place it onto dpn 1. It doesn't say decrease. Where do I have to pick up the extra stitch?

Carol Williamson 19.04.2017 - 00:28:

Sorry, the question was not answered. The instructions for row 3 say "K 2 together." Does this not mean that two stitches become one? Or does "pick up" have a different meaning?

DROPS Design 19.04.2017 kl. 08:33:

Dear Carol, The last instruction for row 2 says pick up a stitch in the last stitch, so a new stitch should be made there. After turning the piece, this stitch which was just picked up, should be knitted together with the first stitch, so there is no hole where the piece is turned. I hope this helped. Happy Knitting!

Dehan Christiane 05.05.2015 - 15:26:

J'adore, ces chaussettes sont magnifiques. Malheureusement, je ne suis pas assez bonne tricoteuse pour les réaliser, quel dommage !

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