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Sea Waves by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket with zig-zag pattern in 2 strands "Alpaca". Size: S - XXXL.

Keywords: 3/4 sleeves, asymmetric, bottom up, jacket, round yoke, square neck, zigzag

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DROPS 147-10
DROPS design: Pattern no z-639
Yarn group A + A
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Size: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
200-250-300 g colour no 100, off white
250-300-350 g colour no 7139, dark grey green
250-300-350 g colour no 7120, light greyish green

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm – or size needed to get 15 tr x 9 rows measured in crochet direction with 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON w/HOLES, NO 522: 5 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Alpaca 		from 3.25 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.25 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.35 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 42.25£. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
MEASURING TIP: All measurements should be done up along band mid front.

STRIPES:
Work stripes as follows:
BODY - SEE MEASURING TIP:
From beg edge to 11 cm: 2 strands dark grey green
11 to 22 cm: 1 strand dark grey green and 1 strand light greyish green
22 cm to 33-34-35 cm: 2 strands light greyish green
33-34-35 cm to 44-46-48 cm: 1 strand light greyish green and 1 strand off white
44-46-48 cm until finished measurements: 2 strands off white

SLEEVE:
From beg edge to 3 cm: 1 strand dark grey green and 1 strand light greyish green
3 to 14 cm: 2 strands light greyish green
14 cm to 25-26-27 cm: 1 strand light greyish green and 1 strand off white

DECREASE TIP:
Work 1 tr, but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work next tr, but on last pull through, pull thread through all sts on hook - 1 tr has been dec.
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JACKET:
Jacket is worked back and forth from mid front, bottom up.
Work 236-284-332 loose ch on hook size 4.5 mm with 2 strands dark grey green. Work STRIPES - see explanation above.
ROW 1: Work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook (= 2 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 20-24-28 ch, * skip 5 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 16-20-24 ch, 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 16-20-24 ch *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total, skip 5 ch and finish with 1 tr in each of the last 22-26-30 ch = 204-252-300 tr.

ROW 2: 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 5 tr (= 6 tr in band), 2 tr in each of the next 2 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 12-16-20 tr, * skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 14-18-22 tr, 2 tr in ch-space, 3 ch, 2 tr in ch-space, 1 tr in each of the next 14-18-22 tr *, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times, skip 4 tr, finish with 1 tr in each of the next 12-16-20 tr and 2 tr in each of the next 2 tr, 1 tr in each of the last 6 tr (= band) = 16-20-24 tr between every hole, 204-252-300 tr in total.
Repeat 2nd row until piece measures 12 cm – READ MEASURING TIP.

Now work as follows:
ROW 1: 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 5 tr (= 6 tr in band), 2 tr in next tr, 1 tr in each of the next 13-17-21 tr, * skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 14-18-22 tr, 1 tr in ch-space, 3 ch, 1 tr in ch-space, 1 tr in each of the next 14-18-22 tr *, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times, skip 4 tr, finish with 1 tr in each of the next 13-17-21 tr, 2 tr in next tr and 1 tr in each of the last 6 tr (= band) = 192-240-288 tr (15-19-23 tr between every hole).

ROW 2: 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 5 tr (= 6 tr in band), 2 tr in each of the next 2 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 11-15-19 tr, * skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 13-17-21 tr, 2 tr in ch-space, 3 ch, 2 tr in ch-space, 1 tr in each of the next 13-17-21 tr *, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times, skip 4 tr, finish with 1 tr in each of the next 11-15-19 tr, 2 tr in each of the next 2 tr and 1 tr in each of the last 6 tr (= band) = 192-240-288 tr (15-19-23 tr between every hole).

Repeat 2nd row until piece measures approx. 22 cm.

Now work as follows:
ROW 1: 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 5 tr (= 6 tr in band), 2 tr in next tr, 1 tr in each of the next 12-16-20 tr, * skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 13-17-21 tr, 1 tr in ch-space, 3 ch, 1 tr in ch-space, 1 tr in each of the next 13-17-21 tr *, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times, skip 4 tr, finish with 1 tr in each of the next 12-16-20 tr, 2 tr in next tr and 1 tr in each of the last 6 tr (= band) = 180-228-276 tr (14-18-22 tr between every hole).

ROW 2: 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 5 tr (= 6 tr in band), 2 tr in each of the next 2 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 10-14-18 tr, * skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 12-16-20 tr, 2 tr in ch-space, 3 ch, 2 tr in ch-space, 1 tr in each of the next 12-16-20 tr *, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times, skip 4 tr, finish with 1 tr in each of the next 10-14-18 tr, 2 tr in each of the next 2 tr and 1 tr in each of the last 6 tr (= band) = 180-228-276 tr (14-18-22 tr between every hole).

Repeat 2nd row until piece measures approx. 32-33-34 cm.

Now work as follows:
ROW 1: 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 5 tr (= 6 tr in band), 2 tr in next tr, 1 tr in each of the next 11-15-19 tr, * skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 12-16-20 tr, 1 tr in ch-space, 3 ch, 1 tr in ch-space, 1 tr in each of the next 12-16-20 tr *, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times, skip 4 tr, finish with 1 tr in each of the next 11-15-19 tr, 2 tr in next tr and 1 tr in each of the last 6 tr (= band) = 168-216-264 tr (13-17-21 tr between every hole).

ROW 2: 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 5 tr (= 6 tr in band), 2 tr in each of the next 2 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 9-13-17 tr, * skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 11-15-19 tr, 2 tr in ch-space, 3 ch, 2 tr in ch-space, 1 tr in each of the next 11-15-19 tr *, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times, skip 4 tr, finish with 1 tr in each of the next 9-13-17 tr, 2 tr in each of the next 2 tr and 1 tr in each of the last 6 tr (= band) = 168-216-264 tr (13-17-21 tr between every hole).

Repeat 2nd row until piece measures approx. 44-46-48 cm. Put piece aside.

SLEEVE:
Work 93-117-141 loose ch on hook size 4.5 mm with 1 strand dark grey green and 1 strand light greyish green and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Work in the round and with STRIPES - see explanation above.

ROUND 1: Work 3 ch in first ch (= 1 tr), * 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 13-17-21 ch, skip 5 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 13-17-21 ch *, repeat from *-* 2 times, 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 13-17-21 ch, skip 5 ch, 1 tr in each of the last 12-16-20 ch and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.

ROUND 2: 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in ch-sp, ch 3, 2 tr in ch-sp, * 1 tr in each of the next 11-15-19 tr, skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 11-15-19 tr, 2 tr in ch-space, 3 ch, 2 tr in ch-space *, repeat from *-* 2 times, 1 tr in each of the next 11-15-19 tr, skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 10-14-18 tr and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round, 1 sl st in each of next 2 sts = 78-102-126 tr.

Repeat 2nd round until sleeve measures 25-26-27 cm, fasten off.

YOKE:
Work piece tog as follows – beg on right front piece with 2 strands off white on hook size 4.5 mm: 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 5 tr (= 6 tr in band), 2 tr in each of the next 2 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 9-13-17 tr, skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 11-15-19 tr, 2 tr in ch-space, 3 ch. Continue work from sleeve: 2 tr in a ch-space, 1 tr in each of the next 11-15-19 tr, skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 11-15-19 tr, 2 tr in ch-space, 3 ch, 2 tr in ch-space, 1 tr in each of the next 11-15-19 tr, skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 11-15-19 tr, 2 tr in ch-space, 3 ch. Skip the remaining tr on sleeve, skip 1 repetition from body (13-17-21 + 13-17-21 tr), then work from body as follows: 2 tr in ch-space, 1 tr in each of the next 11-15-19 tr, skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 11-15-19 tr, 2 tr in ch-space, 3 ch, 2 tr in ch-space, 1 tr in each of the next 11-15-19 tr, skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 11-15-19 tr, 2 tr in ch-space, 3 ch. Continue work from sleeve: 2 tr in a ch-space, 1 tr in each of the next 11-15-19 tr, skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 11-15-19 tr, 2 tr in ch-space, 3 ch, 2 tr in ch-space, 1 tr in each of the next 11-15-19 tr, skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 11-15-19 tr, 2 tr in ch-space, 3 ch. Skip the remaining tr on sleeve, skip 1 repetition from body (13-17-21 + 13-17-21 tr), then work from body as follows: 2 tr in ch-space, 1 tr in each of the next 11-15-19 tr, skip 4 tr, finish with 1 tr in each of the next 9-13-17 tr and 2 tr in each of the next 2 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 6 tr (= band) = 220-284-348 tr (13-17-21/26-34-42 tr between every hole).
ROW 1: 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 5 tr (= 6 tr in band), 2 tr in each of the next 2 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 9-13-17 tr, * skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 22-30-38 tr, skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 11-15-19 tr, 2 tr in ch-space, 3 ch, 2 tr in ch-space, 1 tr in each of the next 11-15-19 tr *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 22-30-38 tr, skip 4 tr, finish with 1 tr in each of the next 9-13-17 tr and 2 tr in each of the next 2 tr, 1 tr in each of the last 6 tr (= band) = 204-268-332 tr.
ROW 2: 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 5 tr (= 6 tr in band), 2 tr in next tr, 1 tr in each of the next 10-14-18 tr, * skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 18-26-34 tr, skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 7-11-15 tr, work the next 2 tr tog - READ DEC.TIPS, work the next 2 tr tog, 2 tr in ch-space, 3 ch, 2 tr in ch-space, work the next 2 tr tog, work the next 2 tr tog, 1 tr in each of the next 7-11-15 tr *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 18-26-34 tr, skip 4 tr, finish with 1 tr in each of the next 10-14-18 tr and 2 tr in next tr, 1 tr in each of the last 6 tr (= band) = 174-238-302 tr.
ROW 3: 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 5 tr (= 6 tr in band), 2 tr in each of the next 2 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 8-12-16 tr, * skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 14-22-30 tr, skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 5-9-13 tr, work the next 2 tr tog, work the next 2 tr tog, 2 tr in ch-space, 3 ch, 2 tr in ch-space, work the next 2 tr tog, work the next 2 tr tog, 1 tr in each of the next 5-9-13 tr *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 14-22-30 tr, skip 4 tr, finish with 1 tr in each of the next 8-12-16 tr and 2 tr in each of the next 2 tr, 1 tr in each of the last 6 tr (= band) = 146-210-274 tr.
ROW 4: 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 5 tr (= 6 tr in band), 2 tr in next tr, 1 tr in each of the next 9-13-17 tr, * skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 10-18-26 tr, skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 5-9-13 tr, work the next 2 tr tog, 4 tr in ch-space, work the next 2 tr tog,1 tr in each of the next 5-9-13 tr*, repeat *-* 3 times in total, skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 10-18-26 tr, skip 4 tr, finish with 1 tr in each of the next 9-13-17 tr and 2 tr in next tr, 1 tr in each of the last 6 tr (= band) = 122-186-250 tr.
ROW 5: 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 5 tr (= 6 tr in band), 2 tr in each of the next 2 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 7-11-15 tr, * skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 6-14-22 tr, skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 4-8-12 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in each of next 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 1 tr in each of the next 4-8-12 tr *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 6-14-22 tr, skip 4 tr, finish with 1 tr in each of the next 7-11-15 tr and 2 tr in each of the next 2 tr, 1 tr in each of the last 6 tr (= band) = 100-164-228 tr.

Now finish the jacket with 1 tr in every tr - the zig-zag pattern is no longer worked. Replace first tr on every row with 3 ch.
ROW 6: Work 1 tr in every tr while AT THE SAME TIME dec 5-9-10 tr evenly (do not dec over tr in bands) = 95-155-218 tr.
Work 3-7-11 more rows with 1 tr in every tr while AT THE SAME TIME dec 5-9-10 tr evenly on every row = 80-92-108 tr. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew tog the openings under the sleeves and sew on buttons on left band. Sew the upper button 2 cm from upper edge, then distribute the rest of the buttons downwards approx. 8 cm apart. Button the buttons between tr on right front piece.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 19.03.2013
New amounts:
Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
200-250-300 g colour no 100, off white
250-300-350 g colour no 7139, dark grey green
250-300-350 g colour no 7120, light greyish green
Updated online: 18.02.2014
SLEEVE:
ROUND 2: 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in ch-sp, ch 3, 2 tr in ch-sp, * 1 tr in each of the next 11-15-19 tr, skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 11-15-19 tr, 2 tr in ch-space, 3 ch, 2 tr in ch-space *, repeat from *-* 2 times, 1 tr in each of the next 11-15-19 tr, skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 10-14-18 tr and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round, 1 sl st in each of next 2 sts = 78-102-126 tr.
Updated online: 16.11.2016
YOKE:...ROW 5: 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 5 tr (= 6 tr in band), 2 tr in each of the next 2 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 7-11-15 tr, * skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 6-14-22 tr, skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 4-8-12 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in each of next 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 1 tr in each of the next 4-8-12 tr *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, skip 4 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 6-14-22 tr, skip 4 tr, finish with 1 tr in each of the next 7-11-15 tr and 2 tr in each of the next 2 tr, 1 tr in each of the last 6 tr (= band) = 100-164-228 tr...

Diagram

diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 147-10) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (196)

country flag Linda Bradbury wrote:

This pattern has proved IMPOSSIBLE to complete, I have counted EVERY STITCH on EVERY ROW and there is NO WAY the sleeves are correct, Also y0u end up with a triangle sticking up in the back and a Triangle shaped pouch at the back of the sleeve! I asked a clear question which was do you have to make two jacket pieces and was told you didn't understand the question, I would love to know how, if you don't understand a simple question, you managed to translate the pattern? I am so disappointed!

14.12.2021 - 22:18

country flag Linda Bradbury wrote:

Thank you for your reply, but I'm more confused now. Do you have to make 2 pieces of the jacket or one?

10.12.2021 - 10:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Bradbury, I don't understand your question sorry, you work first body bottom up to armholes, then the both sleeves, then insert the sleeves between front & back pieces skipping some repeats/stitches for amrholes. Can this help?

10.12.2021 kl. 11:27

country flag Linda Bradbury wrote:

I have tried and tried but cannot attach the sleeves, plus how many triangles should be on jacket and how many on sleeve please. I have done this 3 times now and cannot get it right. I have 6 triangles on jacket and 2 on the sleeve, pleeeeeease help ...thank you

09.12.2021 - 22:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Bradbury, follow the explanation on first row on yoke, you should get: 32-40-48 tr (UK-English) for each front piece + 52-68-84 tr for each sleeve + 52-68-84 sts for back piece = 220-284-348 tr. Can this help?

10.12.2021 kl. 08:44

country flag Annabel wrote:

Bonjour Je voudrai faire ce pull en simple fil avec du fil Drops Safran . Du coup, je veux utiliser 5 couleurs différentes, pour faire les 5 vagues. Combien de pelotes de chaque couleur faut il que j'achète ? pour la va Merci Annabel

02.03.2021 - 17:35

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Annabel, ce modèle a été conçu pour 2 fils Alpaca (ou Safran) sur la base de 15 brides x 9 rangs = 10 x 10 cm, si vous choisissez 1 seul fil Safran, votre échantillon ne sera pas le même et toutes les explications devront être recalculées; vous pouvez en revanche utiliser 1 fil du groupe C (Paris par exemple si vous voulez du coton). Retrouvez ici plus d'infos sur les alternatives. Bon crochet!

03.03.2021 kl. 06:54

country flag Karin Nilsson wrote:

Hej! Det står hur man mäter under Mättips, men det kan inte gälla ärmarna? Om jag kikar på diagrammet ser det ut som jag ska mäta ärmen från spetsen (vändningarna i vågmönstret), stämmer det?

11.07.2020 - 06:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Karin. Uansett hvor du måler på ermene, enten fra tuppen eller ikke, så er cm målene det samme, som skal være: 3 cm med 1 tråd grågrønn + 1 tråd lys grågrønn, 11 cm med 2 tråder lys grågrønn og 11-12-13 cm med 1 tråd lys grågrønn + 1 tråd natur. mvh DROPS design

13.07.2020 kl. 10:48

country flag Veronica Martin wrote:

I want to make this for my granddaughter her chest measurement is 26” please help

18.06.2019 - 19:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Martin, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every single pattern to every individual request, for any further individual assistance, please contact your DROPS store, even per mail or telephone, they will be able to assist you. Happy crocheting!

19.06.2019 kl. 07:02

country flag Inger wrote:

Nav uw reactie over de hoeveelheid garen hoeft het niet zo te zijn dat het niet eerder gebeurd is dat mensen garen tekort zijn gekomen. Wellicht hebben mensen het gewoon niet gemeld. Van het licht groen wordt aanzienlijk meer gebruikt in het vest en in de mouwen dan van de overige kleuren. Ik zal garen moeten bij bestellen en dat zal een ander verfbad hebben gehad en zal u in dus kleurverschil krijgen.

23.08.2018 - 22:59

country flag Inger wrote:

Ik ben inmiddels klaar met het lijfje van dit vest, maar volgens mij kom ik licht groen garen tekort voor de mouwen. In het lijfje zijn er 3 van de 4 strepen waar licht groen in gebruikt wordt. Daarvan 2 strepen met 1 draad licht groen en 1 draad met een andere kleur. De 3e streep is zelfs dubbeldraads licht groen. Ook in de mouwen wordt van de kleur licht groen het meest gebruikt. Dan begrijp ik niet dat de hoeveelheid licht groen hetzelfde is in het patroon als de donkere kleur groen?!

18.08.2018 - 18:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Inger, Het klopt inderdaad dat je in meer strepen lichtgroen gebruikt, maar er is niet eerder een tekort aan aangegeven garen gerapporteerd. De hoeveelheden zouden voldoende moeten zijn. Als je tekort komt kun je het verkooppunt vragen of er je nog garen kunt krijgen van hetzelfde verfbad. (Zie verfbadnummer op de wikkel)

20.08.2018 kl. 08:23

country flag Michelle wrote:

Chaining 117 for the sleeves makes them absolutely huge! What can I do about this!

21.02.2018 - 14:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Michelle, in such a zigzag pattern you need more sts in width than for a usual "straight" pattern. Remember to always check - and then keep - your tension so that you will get the correct measurement as shown in chart. Happy crocheting!

21.02.2018 kl. 15:24

country flag Lisette wrote:

Ik kom met de opzet van 236 lossen al veel te groot uit, ik heb meestal maat L

24.08.2017 - 12:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hallo Lisette, Houd er rekening mee dat de punten aan de onderkant nog gevormd moeten worden, waardoor je meer steken op moet zetten. Als je een proeflapje hebt gemaakt en de stekenverhouding klopt, dan komt het waarschijnlijk wel goed.

28.08.2017 kl. 12:28

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