The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
All measurements in charts are in cm.
= K from RS, P from WS | |
= P from RS, K from WS |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Bliss |
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Knitted DROPS neck warmer and hat with pattern in ”Nepal”.
DROPS 140-40 |
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GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K sts on all rows. GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle): * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. PATTERN: See diagram A.1. Diagram shows all rows in pattern from RS. ---------------------------------------------------------- HAT: Piece is first worked back and forth on circular needle and then in the round. Cast on 86-94 sts with Nepal on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. K 1 row from WS, then work as follows: 6 sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-*, finish with K 2 and 6 sts in garter st. Continue rib and in garter st in each side until piece measures 4 cm / 1½". Switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8. Now work as follows: 6 sts in garter st, A.1 over the next 74-82 sts and finish with 6 sts in garter st. When piece measures 8 cm / 3⅛", bind off the first 6 sts on needle, then work in the round with A.1 over all sts = 80-88 sts. When piece measures 20-21 cm / 8"-8¼", work in GARTER ST - see explanation above - until finished measurements. Work in garter st, AT THE SAME TIME dec 12 sts evenly every 3rd round a total of 5 times = 20-28 sts remain on round. Now K2 tog around, cut the thread and pull it through the remaining sts. Tighten tog and fasten. The hat measures approx. 25-26 cm / 9¾"-10¼" vertically. Sew 2 buttons on to flap at the bottom of hat, sew through both layers. ---------------------------------------------------------- NECK WARMER: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 62 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Nepal. K 1 row from WS, then work as follows - from RS: 6 sts in garter st, K 2, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with 6 sts in garter st. Continue like this. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½", switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and continue as follows: 6 sts in garter st, diagram A.1 over the next 50 sts and finish with 6 sts in garter st. When piece measures 20 cm / 8", bind off 6 sts in each side = 50 sts. Cut the thread. Put piece aside. Knit another piece the same way. Cast on 6 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8, work sts from one piece back on needle, work sts from the other piece back on needle and cast on 6 sts at end of row = 112 sts. Worked back and forth on needle as follows: 6 sts in garter st (band), diagram A.1 over the next 100 sts, 6 sts in garter st (band). Continue like this until piece measures 34 cm / 13½". Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6, then work as follows – AT THE SAME TIME on first row inc 2 sts evenly: 6 sts in garter st, K 2, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with 6 sts in garter st = 114 sts. Work rib for 4 cm /1½", then bind off with K over K and P over P. Place bands on top of each other and sew on 4 buttons through both layers. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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Comments / Questions (95)
Chris Tine wrote:
Bonjour, je ne comprends pas dès le 1er rand pour faire le tour de cou... Déjà, si j'ai bien compris il se fait en 3 morceaux ? Et vous dites: Tricoter 1 rand end sur l'envers, puis continuer ainsi .... cela veux-t-il dire que nous travaillons sur l'envers du tricot ???? J'aime beaucoup ce modele mais j'aimerai déjà le comprendre pour le tricoter !!! Merci pour votre reponse
13.10.2014 - 17:33DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Chris Tine, On commence ici par 1 rang end (le 1er rang = sur l'envers), pour commencer sur l'endroit au 2ème rang tricoté. Le tour de cou se réalise en 3 étapes, on tricote d'abord 2 pièces identiques (dos & devant) puis on réunit ces 2 pièces (en montant 6 m au début et à la fin du rang pour les pattes de boutonnage) pour créer le "col" du plastron. Bon tricot!
14.10.2014 - 09:30Dodo wrote:
Hallo,leider kann ich nicht erkennen (kein Schnittmuster), ob der Kragen nur einer Seite der Schulter oder an beiden Seiten offen ist. Bitte um Auskunft!
14.09.2014 - 13:11DROPS Design answered:
Die Knopfleiste befindet sich nur an der einen Seite. Sie dient aber nur zur Zierde - die beiden Ränder werden übereinander gelegt und die Knöpfe durch beide Schichten aufgenäht. Sie können aber Knopflöcher einarbeiten, wenn Sie möchten, dass der Schal geöffnet werden kann.
14.09.2014 - 20:30Zillah wrote:
The chart really is confusing! I suggest you rewrite the pattern and only offer the chart for when knitting in the round. I really had to struggle with it and had to unpick it all after several mistakes.
12.08.2014 - 01:09Beate Wewezow wrote:
Warum wird der Kragen nicht mit Knopflöchern gestrickt? So muss er doch über den Kopf / Frisur gezogen werden?! Hätte mir ohnehin eine Schemazeichnung für den gesamten Kragen gewünscht.
24.06.2014 - 15:38DROPS Design answered:
Ja, es stimmt, der Kragen wird über den Kopf gezogen, so wie ein "normaler" Rundschal. Sie können ihn aber ganz leicht modifizieren, indem Sie beim oberen Teil, d.h. nach dem seitlichen Schlitz, an der einen Blende gleichmäßig verteilt Knopflöcher einarbeiten. Der obere Teil misst insg. 18 cm. (Der Kragen wird von unten nach oben gestrickt, der seitl. Schlitz, den Sie sehen, ist die Stelle, an der beide Teile auf eine Nadel gelegt werden und rechts und links 6 neue M angeschlagen werden.)
25.06.2014 - 11:55Lucia wrote:
Gostaria que vocês publicassem o gráfico deste modelo de gola 140-40. este modelo é belíssimo, parabéns.
15.02.2014 - 13:40Helen Gladgo wrote:
Confused on A-1 chart first row is the same a Purl row , second row a Knit and third row k,P,k,p,k,p,k,p then Fourth row k,P, k, p k,p,k,p
16.01.2014 - 18:46DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Gladgo, start reading diagram at the bottom corner on the right side towards the left on every RS row / on all rounds - from WS, read from left towards right. Rounds 1 & 2: K1,P1,K1,P1 - Round 3: K - Round 4 P (from RS i.e. in the round or as seen from RS). Happy knitting!
17.01.2014 - 09:56Shellee wrote:
The only oart if this pattern not confusing is the chart! Love it. Question. Can you explain the neck warmer construction? Are bothe sides of the initial 8cm disconnect? If so the instruction only allows for buttons on one side. What happens with the loose flaps on the other side? Is there a 360 view of the neck warmer????? If not how is it worn on the side not showing in the photo? Is the area connecting the two sides worn under the arm? Or on the shoulder??????
22.12.2013 - 18:56DROPS Design answered:
Dear Shelly, the neck warmer is worked first in 2 identical pieces until 20 cm high, then you put both pieces tog and finish piece. Just follow instructions step by step and you'll see your neck warmer take form. Happy knitting!
27.12.2013 - 13:14Rausis Laurence wrote:
Après différentes tentatives, j'ai enfin compris: lorsque l'on tricote droit à l'endroit après les 6 mailles mousses on fait 1 endroit 1 envers ... et au retour (envers) on croise pour qu'il y ait une espèce de mini-côte. Puis 2 rangs tricotés à l'endroit. Quand on tricote en rond, c'est 1 end 1 env et au 2è rang pareil, puis 1 rang tout à l'endroit puis tout à l'envers. Si j'ai fait juste....
20.11.2013 - 20:29Petra wrote:
Ich habe Probleme mit den Abnahmen bei der Mütze. Sollen die Abnahmen immer an den gleichen Stellen (z.B. jede 6. und 7. Masche zusammenstricken, in der nächsten Reihe mit Abnahmen dann jede 5. und 6. Masche) vorgenommen werden und kann dies auch versetzt erfolgen?
20.11.2013 - 11:26DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Petra, ich habe diese Mütze auch gestrickt und die Abnahmen immer an der gleichen Stelle gemacht. Es ist schön geworden, ich würde es also empfehlen.
21.11.2013 - 18:33Annet wrote:
Ik heb moeite met het laatste stukje van de muts, het samen breien op de rondbreinaald. Je houdt weinig steken over en ik kan moeilijk breien op de naald. Is hiervan ook een video?
03.11.2013 - 12:56DROPS Design answered:
Hoi Annet. Je kan de magic loop-techniek gebruiken (zie video hieronder). Is dat te moeilijk, dan kan je wisselen naar naalden zonder knoop en hier verder mee te breien.
04.11.2013 - 20:04