DROPS / 141 / 34

Kate by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS hat and neck warmer in English rib with buttons in ”Eskimo”.

DROPS design: Pattern no ee-434
Yarn group E
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HAT:
Size: S/M - L/XL
Head circumference: 54/56 - 57/59 cm
Materials:
DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio
100 g for both sizes in colour no 76, light pink

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 9 mm – or size needed to get 9 sts in English rib = width 10 cm.
DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 7 mm – for rib.

NECK WARMER:
Size: S/M - L/XL
Materials:
DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio
150-200 g colour no 76, light pink

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 9 mm – or size needed to get 9 sts in English rib = width 10 cm.
DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 7 mm – for rib.
DROPS DARK BUFFELHORN BUTTON NO 536: 3 pieces

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 2.20 € /50g
DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 2.20 € /50g
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DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 2.55 € /50g
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DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 2.75 € /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.00€. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

ENGLISH RIB (back and forth on needle):
ROW 1 (= RS): * K 1, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P *, repeat from *-* and finish with K 1.
ROW 2 (= WS): * 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P, K YO and slipped st tog *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P.
ROW 3 (= RS): * K tog YO and slipped st, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P *, repeat from *-*, finish with K tog YO and slipped st.
Repeat 2nd and 3rd row upwards.
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HAT:
Worked back and forth on needle and sewn tog mid back when finished.
Cast on 53-57 sts on needle size 7 mm with Eskimo. Work as follows (1st row = RS): 1 st in GARTER ST - see explanation above, * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-*, finish with K 1 and 1 st in garter st. Work a total of 6 rows rib. Switch to needle size 9 mm and continue with ENGLISH RIB - see explanation above, with 1 st in garter st in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures approx. 20-21 cm – adjust so that next row is worked from RS - continue with 2 rows rib = K 1/P 1 with 1 st in garter st in each side (on 1st row K yo's and slipped sts tog). On next round K all sts tog 2 by 2 (except last st) = 27-29 sts. P 1 row, then work 1 row where all sts are K tog 2 by 2 one more time = 14-15 sts. Cut the thread, pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and sew hat tog edge to edge in the back in sts in garter st. Hat measures approx. 23-24 cm.
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NECK WARMER:
Worked back and forth on needle.
LOOSELY cast on 63-69 sts with Eskimo on needle size 9 mm. Work ENGLISH RIB – see explanation above, with 4 sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 16-18 cm, cast off for 1 buttonhole at beg of row from RS as follows: K 1, K 2 tog, 1 YO, work as before the rest of row. Repeat cast off for buttonhole every 6 cm 2 more times.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx. 22-23 cm – adjust so that next row is worked from RS - change to 7 mm needles and continue with rib = K 1/P 1 with 4 sts in garter st in each side (on 1st row K yo's and slipped sts tog).
When neck warmer measures 30-32 cm, cast off with K over K and P over P.
Sew on buttons to match the buttonholes.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 141-34) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (13)

Katalin 10.02.2019 - 16:59:

Liebe Drops Design, Ich finde mit diesem Muster /Halswärmer / etwas stimmt nicht. Muss man wirklich nur mit max. 63 Maschen anfangen?! Das ist viel zu klein, man kann dann die Knöpfe auch nicht schliessen. Richtung Hals sollte man die Maschen nicht abnehmen, sonst bei der Krage wird dann zu gross?! Komische Anleitung auf jeden Fall.

DROPS Design 11.02.2019 kl. 10:41:

Liebe Katalin, stimmt Ihre Maschenprobe? Der Halswärmer wird mit Bündchen (und 4 M kraus rechts beidseitig) gestrickt und soll dann elastisch genug sein. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Kristina Andersson 23.11.2018 - 21:20:

Skall det vara så långt till knapphålet som det står i mönstret för halsvärmaren?

DROPS Design 28.11.2018 kl. 17:43:

Jo, det stämmer som det står i mönstret.

Alexandra 01.12.2013 - 14:50:

Est il possible de connaître les dimensions exacte du tour de cou, je souhaiterais faire ce modele des aiguilles 5 et j ai du mal a trouver mon nombre de mailles, j aurai dis 210 mailles mais sans certitudes. Merci

DROPS Design 02.12.2013 kl. 13:50:

Bonjour Alexandra, vous pouvez vous baser sur l'échantillon donné en côtes anglaises et sur le votre pour recalculer le nombre de mailles nécessaire. Ou bien choisir un modèle correspondant au groupe de qualités souhaité. Bon tricot!

Alexandra 01.12.2013 - 14:46:

Est il possible de connaître les dimensions exacte du tour de cou, je souhaiterais faire ce modele des aiguilles 5 et j ai du mal a trouver mon nombre de mailles, j aurai dis 210 mailles mais sans certitudes. Merci

LENOIR 18.06.2013 - 20:31:

Ce modèle est ravissant j'ai réussi à le faire selon la méthode française des côtes anglaises qui n'ont rien à voir avec le point du modèle qui ne donne absolument rien de bien dommage que vos modèles ne soient pas mieux expliqués car moi je tricote depuis 40 ans donc je me débrouille mais pour les débutantes je pense que la traduction n'est pas au TOP

DROPS Design 18.06.2013 kl. 23:07:

Bonjour Mme Lenoir, il existe effectivement plusieurs façons de faire les côtes anglaises pour un résultat analogue. Pour réaliser celles de ce modèle, je vous recommande la vidéo ci-dessous. Bon tricot!

LENOIR 12.06.2013 - 16:57:

Je suis désolée mais des côtes anglaises sont plus simples que votre point à vous et de ce fait j'avoue que je n'arrive pas à obtenir des côtes

DROPS Design 12.06.2013 kl. 19:04:

Bonjour Mme Lenoir, il existe effectivement différentes façons de tricoter les côtes anglaises, pour réussir celles-ci, je vous recommande la vidéo ci-dessous ou bien de consulter le forum DROPS pour un pas à pas. Bon tricot!

Annelie 22.10.2012 - 19:09:

Hej! Jag håller på att sticka den här mössan och ganska snart upptäckte jag att det måste vara något fel någonstans för det blev inte patentstickning. Det ska väl vara så att på det aviga varvet ska de två maskorna stickas samman avigt och inte rätt? I mönstret står det räta maskor på båda aviga och räta varvet vilket gör att mönstret ser likadant ut på båda sidor och det blir ingen resår. Mvh Annelie

Alexandra Pehle 12.10.2012 - 09:35:

Hallo, Die Beschreibung des Patentmusters stimmt nicht mit der Beschreibung überein, die über der Videoanleitung zum Patentmuster steht. Die 2. Reihe bei der Videobeschreibung beginnt mit einer Randmasche rechts und bei der Strickanleitung beginnt sie Mit 1 Umschlag. Viele Grüße A. Pehle

Hanneke 11.10.2012 - 17:59:

Dit patroon is toch een foutief patroon?! Bij boordsteek moet je een even aantal steken hebben ipv een oneven aantal (hier het geval). Daarbij is boordsteek recht boven averecht en andersom, dat creëer je dus niet bij een oneven aantal steken. (Toen ik het patroon breide kreeg ik dus gerstekorrel (oneven aantal steken, recht boven recht en averecht boven averecht) ipv boordsteek. Graag zsm reactie/antwoord zodat ik verder kan met dit patroon! Bij voorbaat dank.

DROPS Design 12.10.2012 kl. 11:53:

Het patroon is correct. Je kan prima een boordsteek breien op een oneven aantal st. Er staat in het patroon (muts): Zet 53-57 st op. Brei (1e nld = goede kant): 1 ribbelst, * 1 st r, 1 st av *, herhaal *-*, eindig met 1 r en 1 ribbelst. Na de eerste nld moet je 6 nld boordsteek breien heen en weer. Dus keer het werk, brei 1 ribbelst, dan av boven de r st van de vorige nld en r boven de av st van de vorige nld. Herhaal en eindig met 1 ribbelst. Je maakt dan een boordsteek en geen gerstekorrels.

Hanneke 31.07.2012 - 20:03:

Is dit niet een andere kleur van DROPS Eskimo dan lichtroze?

DROPS Design 01.08.2012 kl. 12:42:

Het is de lichtroze tweed. Kijk eventueel op de kleurenoverzicht van Eskimo, dan ziet u het duidelijker.

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