DROPS / 142 / 27

Nikita by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS hat and neck warmer with lace pattern in ”Andes”.

  • Nikita / DROPS 142-27 - Knitted DROPS hat and neck warmer with lace pattern in ”Andes”.
DROPS design: Pattern no AN-010
Yarn group E
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HAT:
Size: One-size
Materials:
DROPS ANDES from Garnstudio
100 g colour no 4300, old pink

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 7 mm - or size needed to get 12 sts x 16 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

NECK WARMER:
Height: Approx. 37 cm
Width: Approx. 65 cm
Materials:
DROPS ANDES from Garnstudio
200 g colour no 4300, old pink

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 7 mm - or size needed to get 12 sts x 16 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DARK BUFFELHORN BUTTONS NO 535: 4 pieces

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.00 £ /100g
DROPS Andes uni colour DROPS Andes uni colour 3.00 £ /100g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Andes mix DROPS Andes mix 3.20 £ /100g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K sts on every row.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A-1 and A-2. Diagrams show 1 repetition of pattern in width and vertically.
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HAT:
Worked in the round.
Loosely cast on 65 sts on circular needle size 7 mm with Andes. P 1 round and K 1 round. Then work diagram A-1 (= 5 repetitions in the round). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When pattern has been worked 2 times vertically (piece measures approx. 16 cm), continue with diagram A-2. When A-2 has been worked, there are 25 sts on needle. Work next round as follows: K 1, K 2 tog, * K 1, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 3 more times (2 sts now remain on round), K 1, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1 (= first st on next round), psso = 15 sts. Work last round as follows: * Slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 5 sts remain. Cut the thread and pull it through the remaining sts and tighten tog.
The hat measures approx. 24 cm vertically.

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NECK WARMER:
Worked back and forth on needle from side to side.
Cast on 48 sts on needle size 7 mm with Andes. Work as follows (1st row = RS): 3 sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, * K 2, P 3 *, repeat from *-*, finish with K 2 and 3 sts in garter st. Continue like this for 4 rows. On next row, cast off for 4 button holes as follows: 3 sts in garter st, K 2, * P 2 tog, 1 YO, P 1, K 2, P 3, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 3 more times, finish with 3 sts in garter st. Work 3 rows rib as before. Continue with 2 rows in stocking st with 3 sts in garter st in each side - AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row, dec 3 sts evenly (but do not dec over the outermost 3 sts in each side) = 45 sts. Continue as follows: 3 sts in garter st, diagram A-1 three times in breadth and 3 sts in garter st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Continue pattern until piece measures approx. 60 cm, adjust after 1 whole repetition of pattern - AT THE SAME TIME on last row (= WS), inc 3 sts evenly = 48 sts. Work 7 rows rib as on beg of piece before casting off from WS with K over K and P over P.

Sew on buttons to match the button holes.

Diagram

symbols = K on RS, P on WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 142-27) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (47)

country flag Claudia 07.11.2020 - 11:06:

Buongiorno, sono ai miei primi lavori, chiedo scusa se la domanda è banale ma ho fatto il campione con un altro filato e per avere 10 x10 cm con i ferri 7 mi bastano 10 maglie e 15 giri. Come calcolo quante maglie avviare rispettando gli schemi del disegno ? Grazie

user icon DROPS Design 07.11.2020 kl. 15:37:

Buongiorno Claudia, deve utilizzare un filato e dei ferri che le permettano di ottenere il campione indicato, altrimenti deve riprogettare il lavoro: se necessita di assistenza personalizzata può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

country flag Alessia Laudo 07.12.2019 - 16:37:

Lavoro inizia con" 3 m a PUNTO LEGACCIO – vedere le spiegazioni sopra, * 2 m dir, 3 m rov *, ripetere da *-*, finire con 2 m dir e 3 m a punto legaccio. Proseguire in questo modo per 4 ferri" Ma stando alla foto si vedono coste. Non è che c'è un errore e nei ferri pari/rovescio si dovrebbe lavorare *2rov,3 diritti*?

user icon DROPS Design 16.12.2019 kl. 11:45:

Buongiorno Alessia. Nei ferri di ritorno le coste sono 2 rov , 3 dir. Buon lavoro!

country flag Jeannine 18.04.2019 - 17:50:

Quelle belle surprise d'obtenir une réponse satisfaisante avec cette rapidité. Grand merci!

country flag Jeannine Bonin 17.04.2019 - 13:04:

Bonjour, s.v.p. dites-moi que je comprends bien...contrairement à la lecture d’un texte, la lecture des diagrammes doit se faire à partir de la ligne du bas, au coin droit? Merci!

user icon DROPS Design 17.04.2019 kl. 13:40:

Bonjour Jeannine. Oui, les diagrammes se lisent de bas en haut et de droite à gauche. Ici, vous trouverez plus d'information sur comment lire les diagrammes. Bon tricot !

country flag Alexia 23.12.2016 - 18:37:

Hola se puede hacer el cuello sustituyendo andes por 1 hilo de big delight+1 hilo de brush alpaca silk?

user icon DROPS Design 31.12.2016 kl. 19:41:

Hola Alexia. Dos hilos del grupo C son igual a un hilo del grupo E. No te olvides hacer una muestra antes de realizar la labor.

country flag Marianna Capitani 08.03.2016 - 09:38:

Buon giorno io ho difficolta a capire in che modo si cala nello schema A2 grazie marianna

user icon DROPS Design 08.03.2016 kl. 10:07:

Buongiorno Marianna. Al giro 5 del diagramma A2, deve lavorare: 3 m dir, passa 1 m senza lavorarla, 1 m dir, accavalla la m passata, lavora 2 m insieme a dir, 6 m dir (quindi 13 m diventano 11 m), ripete su tutte le m del giro. In tutto, sul giro, diminuisce 10 m. Segue poi in modo analogo le indicazioni del diagramma. Il disegno si incolonnerà correttamente. Alla fine del diagramma avrà diminuito 40 m e sui ferri avrà 25 m. Buon lavoro!

country flag Ria Boerrigter 19.10.2015 - 11:30:

Ik houd steeds na enkele toeren te hebben gebreid, meer steken over dan 65. Snap er niks meer can. Ben echt wel een ervaren breister. Heb dit nog nooit mee gemaakt. Wat doe ik fout?

user icon DROPS Design 19.10.2015 kl. 15:02:

Hoi Ria. Bij het breien van A.1 zou het aantal st volgens het telpatroon gelijk blijven. Ik denk dat je misschien vergeet om samen te breien of maakt te veel omslagen. Je kan evt markeerders plaatsen tussen elk herhaling van het patroon, zodat je duidelijk afscheiding maakt tussen de herhalingen en in de gaten kan houden waar je verkeerd breit. Succes

country flag Virginia 27.05.2015 - 21:23:

Siguiendo el esquema A1 la labor no me queda como en la imagen. ¿puede ser que el esquema esté desplazado? Me refiero a que el esquema representa dos secuencias de seis vueltas, desplazadas 3 puntos y simétricas y a mi me salen como unas uves en lugar de la especie de espiga que sale en el modelo de la foto. ¿Cual es el truco para sacar este patrón? Me estoy volviendo loca.

user icon DROPS Design 28.05.2015 kl. 11:22:

Hola Virginia, he repasado el patrón y está correcto. Comprueba que las lazadas y disminuciones son las que indica y debería quedar igual. Coloca un MP en cada repetición del patrón a modo de ayuda.

country flag Anna 21.08.2014 - 00:31:

No entiendo el diagrama A1 En que NUMERO de PUNTO he de disminuir el que he aumentado en la segunda Heb (entre punto 9 y 10) ? puesto que si no lo disminuyo el numero final de puntos es de 14 en lugar de los 13 del diagrama. gracias

user icon DROPS Design 23.08.2014 kl. 10:38:

Hola Anna. Tenemos las dism en la primera vuelta en el 3er-4º pts y el 9º-10º pts y los aum entre el 12º-13º pts y el 13º-1º pts de la nueva repetición. Total 2 dism y 2 HEB = el nº de pts no varía.

country flag Anna 19.08.2014 - 00:10:

Hola No entiendo el diagrama A1. Si se hacen dos lazadas ( por ejemplo hilera 2)como es posible que unicamente se cojan 2 puntos juntos, de ese modo cada vez aumento 1 punto...

user icon DROPS Design 20.08.2014 kl. 12:16:

Hola Anna, en cada repetición del patrón hay 2 HEB y 2 dism. Las Heb van juntas y las dism van una seguida de las HEB y otra más adelante en la fila. En el diagrama se observan las 2 dism separadas por 4 pts. Luego el nº de pts no varía.

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