Egg Sitters by DROPS Design

Felted DROPS Santa in ”Alaska”.

DROPS Extra 0-797
DROPS design: Pattern no X-373
Yarn group C
Height: approx 23 cm after felting

Materials: DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio
50 g colour no 10, red
50 g colour no 02, off white
And use:
DROPS GLITTER from Garnstudio
10 g colour no 08, red

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows = 10 x 10 cm before felting.


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Wool
from 1.35 £ /50g
DROPS Alaska uni colour DROPS Alaska uni colour 1.35 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Alaska mix DROPS Alaska mix 1.35 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 2.70£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

Worked back and forth on needle, top down.
Cast on 6 sts on needle size 5 mm with 1 thread red Alaska and 1 thread red Glitter.
Work 5 rows in stocking st. On next row inc 3 sts evenly = 9 sts. Continue in stocking st.
Repeat inc every 6th row 2 more times = 15 sts.
Work 5 rows in stocking st.
On next row inc 4 sts evenly = 19 sts.
Repeat inc every 6th row 2 more times = 27 sts.
Work 10 rows in stocking st.
Switch to off white.
K 6 rows in garter st - see explanation above.
Work 2 rows in stocking st.
Switch to 1 thread red Alaska and 1 thread red Glitter and work 2 rows in stocking st, then K 16 rows in garter st, cast off.

The nose is worked in garter st. Cast on 3 sts on needle size 5 mm with 1 thread red Alaska and 1 thread red Glitter.
On next row inc as follows: K 1, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, K 1 = 5 sts. On next row K YOs twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes. On next row inc as follows: * K 1, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* the rest of row, finish with K 1 = 9 sts.
K 3 rows. On next row K all sts tog 2 by 2, finish with K 1 = 5 sts.
K 1 row.
On next row K all sts tog 2 by 2, finish with K 1 = 3 sts. Cast off.

Sew Santa tog mid back. Sew the nose tog into a ball and fasten it mid front in the top ridge (1 ridge = 2 rows in garter st) in off white. Make a pompom by cutting 20 threads with a length of 6 cm, tie these threads at the middle and fasten at the top.

Cut 48 threads with a length of 10 cm. Fasten the threads in 2 rows around the entire Santa; 1 row between 1st and 2nd ridge and 1 row below 3rd ridge. Fold 2 threads double and pull the loop through a st and then pull thread ends through the loop.

Place the Santa in the washing machine with a detergent without enzymes and optical bleach. Wash at 40 degrees with normal spin but no pre-wash. After wash shape the Santa to the right measurements while still wet and leave to dry flat. At subsequent wash, wash the Santa at regular wool programme. When the Santa has dried, pull it on a roll of toilet paper so that it stands by itself.

If the piece is not felted enough and is too big: Wash the piece one more time in the washing machine while it is still wet add a terry towel that measures approx. 50 x 70 cm - NOTE: Do not use a short program.
If the piece has been felted too much and is too small: While the piece is still wet stretch it to the correct measurements, if the piece is dry, make sure to soak it first.
Remember: All subsequent washes are as a normal wool garment.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-797) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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5) How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

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6) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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7) What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

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8) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

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9) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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10) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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11) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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13) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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14) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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15) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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16) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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17) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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18) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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19) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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20) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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21) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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22) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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23) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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24) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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25) Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Sandra wrote:

Wie zähle ich die Reihen bei denen die Barthaare einziehen? Ist die 1. Krausrippe unten oder oben wenn der Wichtel "steht"? Danke :)

23.11.2023 - 23:17

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sandra, die Barthaare werden am Anfang von den 6 Reihen Krausrechts in Natur eingezogen, 6 Reihen Krausrechts sind 3 Krausrippen, die ersten Barthaaren sind zwischen die 1. und die 2. Krausrippe und die anderen zwischen die 2. und die 3. Krausrippe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

24.11.2023 - 08:00

country flag TERESE SUNDVALL wrote:

Garnet färgar av sig, så den röda tomten får rosa skägg... inte så juligt. Använder tensidfritt tvättmedel, även testat utan tvättmedel. Går det att undvika att det färgar av sig?

25.11.2020 - 15:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Terese. DROPS Alaska skal ikke farge av, men mulig du har fått noe garn som har en del overskuddsfarge, men veldig kjedelig å få rosa skjegg på nissen. Du kan evnt legge rødfargen i litt eddikvann, slik at fargen binder. mvh DROPS design

30.11.2020 - 11:27

country flag Ingela Karlsson wrote:

Har tidigare ställt en fråga ni skulle testa själva och ge mig ett svar. Eftersom jag inte hört något så kontaktaktade jag butiken där jag köpt garnet, Deisy design i Göteborg. Tvättat i två olika maskiner. Deisy design tog kort och ni har fått bilden skickad till er. (Det röda garnet färgade också av sig på det vitaså skägget är lite rödfärgat). Ingela K

19.12.2014 - 09:50

country flag Ingela Karlsson wrote:

Jag har gjort denna tomte och tvättat den enligt beskrivningen, 40 grader maskintvätt. Det vita garnet, skägget och tofsen tovade sig men inte det röda garnet, dvs kroppen på tomten. Jag har för säkerhets skull tvättat den två gånger. Jag har använt det gsrn som står i beskrivningen, alaska. Vad kan jag mer göra? Ingela Karlsson

11.12.2014 - 06:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ingela. Det var saert, men garn kan kan reagere forskelligt. Jeg ville strikke en pröve i den röde Alaska og prövefilte den og se hvad der skal til for at den filter i din maskine. Naar du ved det, kan du pröve med tomterne igen. Held og lykke.

11.12.2014 - 14:57

country flag Ruth wrote:

Liebes Drops-Team, das ist eine wunderbare Anleitung, die hervorragend gelingt ... dafür vielen Dank! Dear Drops-Team, this is a wonderful pattern, that is fun to knit with a quick success! Merry Christmans!!

29.11.2014 - 13:41

country flag Marcia wrote:

Sorry but I just missed the directions. I love your patterns.

24.04.2014 - 22:05

country flag Marcia wrote:

The pattern seems to be missing the directions for the bottom red part of the pattern after the off white section.

24.04.2014 - 22:03

country flag Päivi Hutri wrote:

"tontunmuotoinen vessapaperinteline" means elf-shaped toilet paper stand in finnish. It is not rack for keeping toilet paper, it is elf, lined with paper shell. I suggest that 'tontunmuotoinen vessapaperinteline ' is replaced with 'paperihylsytonttu', that is paper-shell-elf, we have lot of compound words. Thank you! I like to get ideas and inspirations from Drops patterns, there is not many finnish translation errors.

10.05.2013 - 11:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hei! Ohje on nyt korjattu!

13.05.2013 - 14:52

country flag Lisa wrote:

Hvor bruker man glittertråden? Det ser ut som den er strikket sammen med det røde garnet, men det kan jeg ikke se står i oppskriften.

29.11.2012 - 16:56

DROPS Design answered:

Du har ret. Den skal bruges sammen med den røde Alaska. Vi skal få rettet at det står tydeligere

30.11.2012 - 13:48

country flag Inge wrote:

Hallo, habe gerade meine Wichtelmannschaft (10) komplett. Da ich verschiedene Wollstärken benutzt habe, sind Wichtel in verschiedenen Größen entstanden. Man kann sie auch gut mit einem Nadelspiel stricken.

23.11.2012 - 09:54

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