DROPS / 134 / 24

Ice Princess by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS head band and shoulder warmer with cables and rib in ”Andes” or ”Eskimo”.

DROPS design: Pattern no EE-377
Yarn group E
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Size: One-size
Materials: DROPS ANDES from Garnstudio
Colour no 6295, denim blue:
SHOULDER WARMER: 400 g
HEAD BAND: 100 g

SHOULDER WARMER:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 8 mm - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 7 mm – for rib.

HEAD BAND:
DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 6 mm - or size needed to get 13 sts x 17 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 4.30 £ /100g
DROPS Andes uni colour DROPS Andes uni colour 4.30 £ /100g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 for shoulder warmer and diagram M.2 for head band. The diagrams show pattern from RS and 1 repetition of pattern.

DECREASE TIP (applies to shoulder warmer):
Dec on each side of P 3, K 2, P 3.
Dec as follows BEFORE 3 P sts: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows AFTER 3 P sts: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
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SHOULDER WARMER:
Worked in the round on circular needle from bottom up.
Cast on 162 sts on circular needle size 7 mm with Andes. Work as follows (round beg in one side): K 1, * P 3, K 2 *, repeat from *-* a total of 6 times (i.e. over 30 sts), P 3, K 5, P 3, K 5, repeat from *-* 13 times (i.e. over 65 sts), P 3, K 5, P 3, K 5, repeat from *-* 6 times (= 30 sts), P 3, K 1. Continue like this for 6 rounds.
Work next round as follows: ** 11 sts in stocking st, P 3, K 2, P 3, 12 sts in stocking st, P 3, * K 1, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, K 1, P 3, repeat from *-* 4 times, K 1, P 3, 12 sts in stocking st, P 3, K 2, P 3, 11 sts in stocking st **, all sts on front piece have been worked, repeat from **-** on back piece = 178 sts. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm.
Work next round K over K and P over P - K YOs twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes. Continue to work as follows: ** 11 sts in stocking st, P 3, K 2, P 3, 12 sts in stocking st, P 3, diagram M.1, P 3, diagram M.1, P 3, 12 sts in stocking st, P 3, K 2, P 3, 11 sts in stocking st **, repeat from **-** 1 more time.
Continue like this upwards. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 15 cm, dec 1 st on each side of all (P 3, K 2, P 3) - SEE DECREASE TIP, = 8 sts dec. Repeat dec every 3rd round a total of 10 times = 98 sts. When piece measures 35 cm, switch to circular needle size 7 mm. Then continue as before until piece measures 45 cm.
Cast off with K over K and P over P.

HEAD BAND:
Worked sideways back and forth on needle.
Cast on 19 sts on needle size 6 mm with Andes. Work diagram M.2 until piece measures approx. 48 cm - finish after 1 whole repetition. Cast off and sew head band tog edge to edge mid back to avoid a chunky seam.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 14.02.2012
New chart M.2 has been published

Diagram

= K on RS, P on WS
= P on RS, K on WS
= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
= slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 134-24) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (71)

Gourmelen 03.10.2019 - 08:43:

Pour faire les torsades on fait bien M1 sur les 89mailles du devant mais si on repete M1 une fois sur les 89 mailles du dos la torsade se trouve aussi dans le dos ou alors je suis le shema sans faire de torsade sur les 89 mailles du dos merci de m aider

DROPS Design 03.10.2019 kl. 09:44:

Bonjoru Mme Gourmelen, vous répétez les 89 mailles telles qu'elles sont décrites pour le dos et le devant, vous aurez ainsi au milieu devant et au milieu dos: M.1, 3 m env, M.1, le devant et le dos sont identiques. Bon tricot!

Gourmeln 21.09.2019 - 08:56:

Bonjour au moment de faire les 11 mailles je suis un peu perdu je n obtiens que 88 mailles je fais bien 2 fois à la suite 11m 3menv 2 m en 3 env 12 en jersey 3 env puis 2 fois a la suite 1 endroit 1 jeté et aprés je ne sais pas ce que je dois répéter 4 fois merci de bien vouloir m aider car je suis novice dans le tricotet m indiquer que représente **les 2 etoiles et*-* et une etoile un trait et une étoile merci modele chauffe épaule drops 134 24

DROPS Design 23.09.2019 kl. 08:32:

Bonjour Mme Gourmeln, vous devez répéter 4 fois la partie entre les *, autrement dit 4 fois 1 m end, 1 jeté, vous aurez donc: 1 m end, 1 jeté, 1 m end, 1 jeté, 1 m end, 1 jeté, 1 m end, 1 jeté,, puis vous tricotez jusqu'au symbole ** = vous avez tricoté la moitié des mailles, reprenez toute la séquence à partir du premier ** jusqu'au 2ème ** sur les mailles restantes. Bon tricot!

Laura 09.03.2019 - 22:19:

Buona sera, nei 15 cm calcolo anche i primi sei ferri? Grazid

DROPS Design 09.03.2019 kl. 23:40:

Buongiorno Laura. Sì, nei 15 cm sono compresi i primi 6 ferri. Buon lavoro!

Laura 08.03.2019 - 10:47:

Scusate un dubbio ma lo scalda spalle va lavorato in tondo con i circolari? Se si quando inizio a lavorare il diagramma M1 nel giro di ritorno devo lavorare le maglie come si presentano e poi continuare a seguire lo schema e quindi iniziare la treccia al settimo giro? Spero di essermi spiegata bene.

DROPS Design 08.03.2019 kl. 11:32:

Buongiorno, lo scaldaspalle è lavorato in tondo dal basso verso l'alto, in tondo. Il diagramma si legge quindi dal basso verso l'alto, da destra verso sinistra su tutti i giri e sono riportati tutti i giri, per cui le trecce saranno sul 4° e 10°giro. Buon lavoro!

Laura 08.03.2019 - 09:24:

Domanda forse sciocca la mia. Quando nelle istruzioni c'è scritto ripetere sei volte è compresa la priva lavorazione quindi sette ripetizioni? Grazie

DROPS Design 08.03.2019 kl. 09:37:

Buongiorno Laura. Sì è compresa anche la prima lavorazione. Buon lavoro!

Bene 18.03.2018 - 10:46:

Voulant faire ce chauffe épaule mais sans motif(donc pas de section) pourriez vous me dire ou vous feriez les diminutions et combien et quels rangs merci de réponse

DROPS Design 19.03.2018 kl. 10:10:

Bonjour Mme Bene, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir ajuster chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande individuelle. Vous pouvez vous inspirer d'un modèle similaire qui ressemble à ce que vous souhaiteriez ou demander de l'aide au magasin où vous avez acheté votre laine. Bon tricot!

Bene 12.03.2018 - 09:50:

Je ne comprends pas vous ne commencez pas avec points 2* 2 au début de l ouvrage car d après la photo ce sont des cotes 2*2 merci de votre réponse

DROPS Design 12.03.2018 kl. 10:59:

Bonjour Mme Bene, les côtes du début du chauffe-épaules se tricotent en côtes 3 m env/2 m end ou en côtes 5 m end/2 m env pour que le motif des torsades soit bien aligné au-dessus des côtes. Suivez bien pas à pas les explications. Bon tricot!

Åsa Eonsuu 19.01.2017 - 19:25:

Jag förstår inte beskrivningen, det verkar som om det saknas stjärnor som visar vad som ska upprepas. Det börjar redan på första varvet. Vad är det som ska upprepas 13 gånger, så att det ska bli 65 maskor? Jag får inte ihop det... Sen direkt efter är det något (vad?) som ska upprepas 6 gånger och totalt bli 30 maskor. Det måste saknas stjärnor där också.

DROPS Design 30.01.2017 kl. 08:49:

Hej. Det är det som står inom stjärnor i början som upprepas, dvs * 3 am, 2 rm *. Lycka till!

Adele 12.12.2015 - 10:32:

Bonjour, j'ai un problème avec le diagramme M2. Je ne comprends pas car selon moi les mailles du milieu devraient être au point mousse (1 maille endroit sur 1 maille endroit) mais ça ne rend pas bien du tout avec les torsades... Ne serait-ce pas plutôt du jersey qu'il faut faire? Merci

DROPS Design 14.12.2015 kl. 10:34:

Bonjour Adèle, M.2 se tricote ainsi (vu sur l'endroit): 1 m point mousse, 2 m jersey end, 2 m jersey env, 9 m jersey end (avec torsades aux rangs 3 et 9), 2 m env, 2 m end, 1 m point mousse. Voir aussi ici. Bon tricot!

Lillian Hauge 03.12.2015 - 15:21:

Kan det lade sig gøre at benytte garn fra garngruppe C på denne opskrift og er der i så fald forslag til ændringer ift. antal masker med mere?

DROPS Design 04.12.2015 kl. 08:19:

Hej Lillian, Nej så er det bedre hvis du strikker efter denne opskrift: Poncho i garngruppe C!

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