100% Cotton
from 1.10 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS 130-13
DROPS design: Pattern no W-410
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL

Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
Colour no 32, light blue purple: 200-250-250-300-300 g

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm (80 cm) - for rib.


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Cotton
from 1.10 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
(back and forth on needle): K all rows.
(in the round on circular needle): * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 54-54-60-66-72 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Paris and P 1 row from WS, then work rib with beg from RS as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, K 2, * P 3, K 3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 8-8-9-10-11 times, finish with P 2, 1 edge st in garter st. When piece measures 2 cm, switch to needle size 5 mm and work in stocking st while AT THE SAME TIME evenly inc the no of sts to 56-58-62-68-72.
When piece measures 3 cm, inc 1 st in each side, repeat inc every 1.5-1.5-1.5-2-2 cm a total of 5-6-6-5-5 times = 66-70-74-78-82 sts. When piece measures 10-11-12-13-14 cm, insert a marker in each side (adjust so that last row is from WS) - now measure piece from here!
Now cast off and dec in the right side of piece (= towards front piece) while at the same time casting on new sts in the left side of piece (= towards back piece) as follows:
Towards front piece: Cast off on every other row 3 sts 4 times and 2 sts 9-10-11-12-13 times, then dec on every 4th row 1 st 3 times.
Towards back piece: On every other row cast on 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 5-6-7-6-9 times, then on every 4th row 1 st 4-4-4-5-4 times.
After all cast offs, dec and cast ons, there are 48-51-54-56-60 sts on the needle. Continue in stocking st.
When piece measures 17-18-19-20-21 cm (adjust so that last row is from RS), work short rows for back as follows: Work 10 sts and slip these sts on a stitch holder (= bottom of back piece) - repeat a total of 4 times at the beg of every row from WS (a total of 40 sts on stitch holder) = 8-11-14-16-20 sts remain on needle. On next row from RS, slip all sts from the stitch holder back on the needle and work 4 rows in garter st (see explanation above) over all sts. Cast off. Do not remove the markers yet.

Cast on and work as right part but with inc, dec, cast offs and cast ons in the opposite side.

Sew sleeve seams inside 1 edge st up to marker. Sew tog the two parts mid back in the cast off edge. Knit up sts from RS along the opening of the bolero - i.e. up along right front piece, back of neck, down along left front piece and then along back piece = 180-195-210-225-240 sts (to be divided by 15) - on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Paris (knit up approx. 38-43-48-53-58 sts along each front piece, 16 sts in the neck, 88-93-98-103-108 sts along back piece) - NOTE: If more or fewer sts have been knitted up, inc/dec evenly on 1st round. It is also important to knit up enough sts by sleeve seam in each side so that the edge is not too tight under the arms. Work in the round on circular needle as follows (seen from RS): 4 rounds in garter st (see explanation above), then work rib (= K 3/P 2). When edge measures 2 cm, inc every third P-section to 3 P sts = 192-208-224-240-256 sts. Repeat inc when edge measures 5 and 8 cm, but displace inc so that next 2 st P section is inc to 3 P sts = 216-234-252-270-288 sts. After last round with inc, the rib should be K 3/P 3 the entire round. Loosely cast off with K over K and P over P.


symbols = knitting direction
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (15)

country flag Barbara wrote:

Guten Tag Ich habe eine Frage zu den verkürzten Reihen. Ist es richtig, dass über die ganzen 4 x Verkürzen die 10 M auf dem Hilfsfaden bleiben und ich 8 Maschen stricken soll, wenden, zurück und das 4 x? Vielen Dank für Ihre Antwort und herzlichen Gruss Danke auch für die immer tollen Anleitungen!

20.08.2023 - 16:16

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Barbara, am Anfang einer Hinreihe stricken Sie die ersten 10 Maschen und legen Sie diese Maschen still, dann stricken Sie diese Hinreihe bis zur Ende, wenden Sie und stricken Sie die Rückreihe. Diese 2 Reihen insgesamt 4 Mal stricken (es sind dann 10 M x 4 = 40 Maschen auf dem Faden) und 8 bis 20 M (siehe Größe) übrig auf der Nadel. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.08.2023 - 09:07

country flag MSHARRY wrote:

I am working on th e section where I hav just finished all the cast offs and cast ons and I have 56 sts on the needle. The next step says to work in stocking stwhen piece measures 20 cm work short rows Does that mean I measure from where I have the 56 sts to do the stocking st. till I have 20 cm and then work the short rows?

06.11.2019 - 21:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dear MSHarry, the 20 cm should be measured from the markers added on each side after 13 cm ie where pattern says to measure piece from here. Happy knitting!

07.11.2019 - 09:06

country flag MSHARRY wrote:

I am at the section of the pattern where it says repeat inc when edge measure 5 and 8 cm. When I have done the increases every third p section to 3 sts and I have 224 sts I do not understand where to displace inc . Can you make this a little more clearly?

02.10.2019 - 03:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear MsHarry, after first increase you should have: *K3, P3, K3, P2, K3, P2*, repeat from *-* all the round - after 2nd increase you should have *K3, P3, K3, P3, K3, P2*, repeat from *-* all the round and after last increase you should have *K3, P3, K3, P3, K3, P3**, repeat from *-* all the round = K3/P3 on the round. Happy knitting!

02.10.2019 - 08:25

country flag MSHARRY wrote:


16.07.2019 - 16:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Msharry, the right hand side of piece seen from RS is the front piece, while the left hand side of the piece seen from RS is back piece. For front piece, you will cast off at the beg of a RS row, and for back piece you will cast on new stitches at the end of a RS row. Happy knitting!

17.07.2019 - 10:56

country flag MSHARRY wrote:

When you are doing cast off and dec. how can the pattern read dec on every 4th row? Wouldn't that be on the towards the back instead of towards the front?

16.07.2019 - 03:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hi MSHARRY, The first decrease is from the right side, so all the following 4th rows will also be from the right side. Happy knitting!

16.07.2019 - 06:58

country flag Charlotte Lücking wrote:

Jeg har striket modellen i Paris str. M - det er ikke nok med 250 g. Jeg måtte købe et nøgle ekstra - surt når man handler online, og derved kommer til at betale porto to gange 😔

15.01.2016 - 13:58

country flag Drops Design wrote:

Hi Stephanie, yes, make sure last row you work is worked from WS so that next row will begin a RS row.

19.12.2011 - 17:45

country flag Stephanie Gum wrote:

Does "adjust so that last row is from WS" mean to the next row should begin a RS row? Or does it mean the next row should begin a WS row?

19.12.2011 - 13:49

Myriam wrote:

Beautiful shape

02.02.2011 - 18:02

country flag Carole wrote:

I love shrugs. This one looks wonderful.

31.01.2011 - 03:32