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My Muse by DROPS Design
DROPS sweater in English rib in 2 threads ”Kid-Silk”. Size: XS - XXL.
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Size: XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL
Materials: DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
Colour no 03, light pink:
125-150-150-175-175-200 g
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 mm (80 cm) - or size needed to get 14 sts x 17 rows in stocking st with 2 threads Kid-Silk = 10 x 10 cm.
And 10 sts in pattern with 2 threads Kid-Silk = width 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON w/HOLES, NO 521: 4 pieces
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Kid-Silk 75% Mohair, 25% Silk |
from 3.80 £ /25g | Order | ||||||||
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DROPS Needles & Hooks | Order | |||||||||
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INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st inside 1 edge st in garter st each side. Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row work YO twisted (i.e. work in the back loop of st instead front). Work the inc sts in the pattern.
PATTERN (back and forth on needle):
ROW 1 (= RS): 1 edge st in garter st, * K 1, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain and finish with K 1 and 1 edge st in garter st.
ROW 2 (= WS): 1 edge st in garter st, * 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P, K tog YO and slipped st *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, finish with 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P and 1 edge st in garter st.
ROW 3 (= RS): 1 edge st in garter st, * K tog YO and slipped st, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain (1 YO + 2 sts), K tog YO and slipped st, finish with 1 edge st in garter st.
Repeat 2nd and 3rd row upwards.
SHORT ROWS FOR NECK SLIT:
To avoid the band being worked too long mid front in neck slit when working pattern, work short rows in each side as follows:
* start from RS and work 3 rows in pattern over all sts, turn piece. Work in pattern until 7 band sts remain, turn piece and work in pattern until 7 band sts remain in the other side - NOTE: Work first st after each turn a little tight to avoid holes in the transitions. Turn piece, work back over all sts (incl band) *, repeat from *-* up along the entire band until pattern is finished. Then work back and forth over all sts.
BUTTON HOLES:
Cast off for button holes on right front band.
1 BUTTON HOLE = P tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO.
Cast off for button holes when piece measures:
SIZE XS: 2, 6, 11 and 15 cm.
SIZE S: 2, 7, 12 and 17 cm.
SIZE M: 2, 7, 12 and 17 cm.
SIZE L: 2, 7, 13 and 18 cm.
SIZE XL: 2, 7, 13 and 18 cm.
SIZE XXL: 2, 8, 14 and 20 cm.
I.e. approx. 3 to 5 cm remain until finished measurements after last button hole.
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SWEATER:
Worked in several pieces back and forth on circular needle.
FRONT PIECE:
Loosely cast on 61-67-73-79-88-97 sts (incl 1 edge st in garter st in each side) on circular needle size 7 mm with 2 threads Kid-Silk. Work first row from WS as follows: 1 edge st in GARTER ST - see explanation above -, * P 2 tog, K 1 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain, finish with P 2 tog and 1 edge st in GARTER ST = 41-45-49-53-59-65 sts. Then work PATTERN - see explanation above (1st row = RS) - with 1 edge st in Garter st in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm - adjust so that next row is worked from RS - cast off the first 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows for armhole = 35-39-43-47-53-59 sts remain on needle. Cut the thread, put piece aside and work back piece.
BACK PIECE:
Cast on and work as front piece.
SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 37-40-43-43-40-43 sts (incl 1 edge st in garter st in each side) on circular needle size 7 mm with 2 threads Kid-Silk. Work first row from WS as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, * P 2 tog, K 1 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain, finish with P 2 tog and 1 edge st in garter st = 25-27-29-29-27-29 sts. Then work PATTERN - see explanation above – with 1 edge st in garter st in each side (1st row = RS). When piece measures 8 cm, inc 1 st in each side - READ INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc every 10-10-10-10-5½-5½ cm a total of 4-4-4-4-6-6 times = 33-35-37-37-39-41 sts - NOTE: Remember to work the inc sts in the pattern. When piece measures 43-42-42-41-41-40 cm (NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and broader shoulder width) - adjust so that next row is worked from RS - cast off the first 3 sts at the beg of the next 2 rows for armhole = 27-29-31-31-33-35 sts remain on needle. Put aside and knit the other sleeve.
YOKE:
Slip the first 14-16-18-20-23-26 sts at beg of row (from RS) on front piece on a stitch holder = 21-23-25-27-30-33 sts remain on needle.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Work first row from RS as follows: K 1 (= YO + slipped st K tog), P 1, K 1 (= YO + slipped st K tog), P 1, K 1 (= YO + slipped st K tog), P 1 and K 1 (= YO + slipped st K tog) = 7 band sts, work in pattern (= 3rd row pattern), i.e. start with 1 YO and slip 1 st as if to P and continue with pattern as before over the remaining sts on front piece, continue over the sleeve, then over back piece, then over the other sleeve and then over the 14-16-18-20-23-26 sts from stitch holder on front piece and then knit up 1 new st behind each of the 7 band sts, AT THE SAME TIME in all transitions between body and sleeve, work last st (1 YO + K 1) before and first st after the transitions K tog (i.e. 4 sts dec on row) = 127-139-151-159-175-191 sts on needle. The pattern should now be correct around the entire piece.
Continue in pattern back and forth as before but work the outermost 7 sts in each side (= bands) in rib, i.e. K 1, P 1, K 1, P 1, K 1, P 1 and K 1 mid front (seen from RS). AT THE SAME TIME work SHORT ROWS - see explanation above - so that the bands are the same length as the pattern. REMEMBER BUTTON HOLES ON RIGHT BAND - see explanation above. When yoke measures 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm (adjust so that next row is worked from RS), work rib (= K 1/P 1) over all sts (instead of pattern) - NOTE: I.e. on 1st row K tog YO and slipped st (= K 1), P next st.
When 2 rows in rib have been worked, work an elevation in the back of neck as follows (1st row from RS): Work rib until 20 sts remain on needle, turn piece and work rib until 20 sts remain on needle in the other side. Turn piece and work rib until 40 sts remain on needle, turn piece and work rib until 40 sts remain on needle in the other side. Turn piece and work rib until 60-64-69-72-78-83 sts remain on needle, turn piece and work rib until 60-64-69-72-78-83 sts remain on needle in the other side. Turn piece and work the rest of the row, then work 1 row in rib over all sts from WS.
Now work next row from RS as follows: 7 band sts as before, * P 2 tog, K 2 twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) tog *, repeat from *-* until 8 sts remain and finish with P 1 and 7 band sts as before = 71-77-83-87-95-103 sts. Work 1 row with K over K and P over P. Then LOOSELY cast off with K over K and P over P, sweater measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm up to shoulder.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew side seams tog edge to edge in front loop of outermost sts. Sew underarm seams tog edge to edge in front loop of outermost sts. Sew the opening under the sleeves. Sew on buttons.
Diagram
Do you need help with this pattern?
Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 127-1) for measurements and calculations.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Comments / Questions (85)
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 281 catalogues and 10519 patterns - 10519 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
FÖRKORTADE VARV I HALSSPRUNDET Är det riktigt förstått at man stickar 3 varv patent innanför de 7 kant maskerna i halsprundet och i den fjerde omgangen stickar man 1 r 1 vr, dvs stickar sprundet var fjerde omgang??? Vänliga hälsningar Gudrun
10.05.2022 - 19:10DROPS Design answered:
Hej Gudrun, du strikker 3 pinde over alle masker, 4:e pind vender du lige før kantmaskerne og 5:e pind vender du lige før kantmaskerne, så strikker du over alle masker igen :)
11.05.2022 kl. 08:08Bij de aanzet van de pas heb ik bij het samenbreien van lijf en mouwen telkens bij de overgangen tussen lijf en mouw (in de eerste naald) in totaal 4 steken geminderd zoals beschreven. Het aantal steken klopt met 151 voor maat (M). Moet ik deze mindering van 4 steken blijven herhalen bij de overgangen, in de nog te breien naalden tot de pashoogte van 19 cm bereikt is? Dit lijkt me niet duidelijk in de patroon beschrijving van de pas. Hartelijk dank - Hilde Aerts
07.04.2022 - 17:29DROPS Design answered:
Dag Hilde,
Nee, je hoeft nu niet meer steeds 4 steken te minderen bij iedere overgang, dus je kunt gewoon door breien volgens de instructies, zonder te minderen.
20.04.2022 kl. 10:23DET GÅR EJ ATT SKRIVA UT MÖNSTRET BARA BILDEN
23.05.2021 - 19:55DROPS Design answered:
Hej Eva. Om du trycker på "skriv ut" så kommer det upp en lista där du kan välja om du vill skriva ut "Mönster" eller "Bild". Väljer du "Mönster" där får du ut hela mönstret (inklusive bild). Mvh DROPS Design
24.05.2021 kl. 07:55What is the best way to sew the side seams on the My Muse sweater? Should I use an overcast stitch? Thank you!
16.12.2020 - 17:12DROPS Design answered:
Dear Kathy, you can for example sew the edge stitches in garter stitch as shown in this video - or use your usual technique for side seams. Happy assembly!
17.12.2020 kl. 08:38Pour ce modèle il est indiqué qu’il faut prendre 2 fils kid Silk. Est-ce que cela signifie qu’il faut prendre 2 pelotes pour avoir ces 2 fils ? Si oui, est-ce que la quantité de laine indiquée prends bien en compte cet élément ? Merci de votre réponse
27.09.2020 - 18:11DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Praturlon, ce pull se tricote effectivement avec le fil en double, autrement dit 1 fil de 2 pelotes différentes - la quantité indiquée correspond effectivement à celle requise avec le fil en double = la quantité nécessaire en fonction de la taille - notez que DROPS Kid-Silk se présente sous forme de pelotes de 25 g -plus d'infos sur son nuancier. Bon tricot!
28.09.2020 kl. 10:27Hei. Når du strikker sammen de 4 delen skal du strikke 2 rette masker sammen før og etter overgangen, og minsker dermed antall masker med 4 på første runde. Skal du fortsette å felle ved hver overgang, eller kun denne ene gangen? På bildet ser det som det skal bli en slags raglan, derfor jeg lurer på om du skal felle hver runde?
10.05.2020 - 15:12DROPS Design answered:
Hei Anita. Nei, det felles kun den ene gangen.Patentstrikken trekker seg godt sammen, slik at det ikke er noen felling før etter forhøyningen bak i nakken. God Fornøyelse!
18.05.2020 kl. 10:00Hei. Når du strikker sammen de 4 delen skal du strikke 2 rette masker sammen før og etter overgangen, og minsker dermed antall masker med 4 på første runde. Skal du fortsette å felle ved hver overgang, eller kun denne ene gangen? På bildet ser det som det skal bli en slags raglan, derfor jeg lurer på om du skal felle hver rund.
03.05.2020 - 16:03Hei! Jeg strikket denne i størrelse L, og så ble den altfor stor for meg viste det seg så jeg ga den videre. Men jeg har fått den tilbake, for den har blitt veldig vid og slaskete! Setter den seg/strammer seg om jeg vasker den? For dette garnet tover seg vel ikke? (Hvis jeg må rekke opp vil jeg helst ikke vaske den først).
01.03.2020 - 21:46DROPS Design answered:
Hei Gry. Om ikke den opplyste strikkefastheten er overholdt kan det ferdig plagget nok bli litt slaskete/miste formen. Om du vil rekke den opp, anbefaler jeg ikke å vaske den først. Kid-Silk kan i utgangspunktet være vrien å rekke opp uten å være vasket og ettersom den allerede er blitt brukt kan fibrene i garnet ha tvunnet seg godt sammen. Dette garnet tover seg i vaske(maskinvaske), men følger du vaskeanvisningen og legger genseren i den formen du ønsker det, kan det være en løsning. mvh DROPS design
02.03.2020 kl. 13:51Framstycket: man lägger upp 73 m (M) och efter första varvet har man 49 m kvar. På första varvet ökas maskorna genom omslag till totalt 72 m. När arb mäter 33 cm minskas för ärmhålen med totalt 6 m, vilket ger totalt 66 m och inte 43 m som det står i beskrivningen. Det måste väl vara ett korrekturfel? (Ni har utgått från 49 m efter första varvet men glömt att man är uppe på 72 efter varv 1 i helpatenten. Alla varv därefter stickas enl varv 2 och 3 i helpatent.)
26.01.2019 - 09:29DROPS Design answered:
Hei Maria. Det stemmer at man legegr opp 73 masker, som etter 2 omgang er minsket til 49. Videre strikkes helpatent, men maskeantallet endrer seg ikke. På første pinne av helpatent lages kast, som på neste pinne strikkes sammen med masken som ble tatt løst av - du kan på en måte si at kastet og den løse masken hører sammen, fordi de alltid strikkes som 1. Det er derfor ingen endring i maskeantallet. Når du så feller 6 masker til ermhull sitter du igjen med 43 masker på pinnen. God fornøyelse.
31.01.2019 kl. 13:06Maria wrote:
In the yoke I get confused it says: ... then knit up 1 new st behind each of the 7 band sts how do you do that? and do you knit on or go back and forth? thank you!
28.09.2018 - 22:19DROPS Design answered:
Dear Maria, this video shows how to pick up 1 st in each of the 7 band sts (the other sts are worked in stocking st in the video, just work in pattern as before), then how to continue working back and forth. Happy knitting!
01.10.2018 kl. 07:57