DROPS / 127 / 44

Wood Lily by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS hat with fan pattern border in "Lin".

DROPS design: Pattern no LN-019
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Size: S/M - M/L
Head circumference: approx. 54/56 cm - 56/58 cm

Materials: DROPS LIN from Garnstudio
100-100 g colour no 102, off white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 mm – or size needed to get 22 htr = width 10 cm.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first htr on every round with htr with 2 ch and finish every round with htr with 1 sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round.
NOTE: When working htr, work in back loop of st (not through both loops of st).

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1, start of round is marked with arrow in diagram - NOTE: In M.1 replace first dc on round with dc with 1 ch and finish round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round. Replace first tr at beg of every round with tr with 3 ch and finish every round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Replace first dtr at beg of every round with dtr with 4 ch and finish every round with 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 dc by working 1 dc but wait with last YO and last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next dc but on last YO and pull through pull thread through all sts on hook = 1 dc dec.
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HAT:
The piece is worked top down.
Crochet 5 ch on hook size 3 mm with Lin and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work 12 htr in ch-ring – READ CROCHET INFO!
ROUND 2: * 1 htr in first st, 2 htr in next st *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 18 htr.
ROUND 3: * 1 htr in each of the first 2 sts, 2 htr in next st *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 24 htr.
ROUND 4: * 1 htr in each of the first 3 sts, 2 htr in next st *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 30 htr.
Continue inc like this (= 6 sts inc on every round) until there are 90-108 htr on the round (i.e. so that for every round 1 htr more is worked between every 1 htr inc). Continue working 1 htr in every st until piece measures 11-13 cm from mid down - while AT THE SAME TIME on last round inc 6 htr evenly = 96-114 htr. Now work PATTERN - see explanation above. After M.1 there are 96-114 dc on round. Work 1 round dc while AT THE SAME TIME dec 6 dc evenly = 90-108 dc on round. Piece measures approx. 17-19 cm from mid and down.

BRIM:
Remember CROCHET INFO!
ROUND 1: * 1 htr in each of the first 2 sts, 2 htr in next st *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 120-144 htr.
ROUND 2: 1 htr in every st.
ROUND 3: * 1 htr in each of the first 5 sts, 2 htr in next st *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 140-168 htr.
Continue to work 1 htr in every st until piece measures approx. 22-24 cm from mid and down (brim measures approx. 5 cm).
Now work a final picot border round the brim of the hat as follows:
1 ch (= 1 dc), 1 dc in next st, * 4 ch, 1 sl st in first ch (1 picot), 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts *, repeat from *-* until 0-1 st remain, finish with 1 dc in last st (applies to size M/L) and 1 sl st in ch from beg of previous round.

Diagram

= htr
= 1 ch
= 1 dc
= 4 ch, 1 sl st in first ch (1 picot)
= 1 tr
= 1 dtr
= beg here

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 127-44) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (8)

Linda 25.02.2014 - 16:13:

Vielen Dank für die prompte Antwort. Habe noch eine kurze Frage, muss ich zuerst eine Reihe mit Picot machen und danach eine mit den Stäbchen und Luftmaschen, dies ist mir nicht ganz klar.Vielen Dank.

DROPS Design 25.02.2014 kl. 21:04:

Liebe Linda, nach den Runden mit den Halb-Stäbchen starten Sie M.1 mit einer Runde mit festen M und Picots. Die Startrunde ist im Diagramm mit dem Pfeil markiert. Sie häkeln also eine Rd mit fM + Picots, dann eine Rd mit Stb + Lm, dann wieder eine Rd mit fM + Picots, dann eine Rd mit Doppel-Stb + Lm usw. Gutes Gelingen!

Linda 25.02.2014 - 10:55:

Das Diagramm M1 ist mir nicht ganz klar. Nach dem Stäbchen müsste da nicht eine feste Masche in die feste Masche gehäkelt werden. Wie kann sonst das Pikot gehäkelt werden ?Danke für ihre Auskunft

DROPS Design 25.02.2014 kl. 13:33:

Liebe Linda, den Picot häkeln Sie immer in den Runden mit fM, nicht in den Runden mit Stb oder D-Stb. Der Lm-Bogen zwischen den Stb/D-Stb der nächsten Runde bildet dann praktisch die "Brücke" über den Picot. Viel Spaß beim Häkeln!

LEMAUX 07.06.2013 - 13:54:

Très bien, mais je crois qu'il manque quelques mailles serrées dans les tours du point fantaisie. Si on suit "à la lettre",chaque tour est beaucoup trop serré avec seulement deux mailles serrées entre les brides ou doubles brides. Qu'en pensez-vous ?

DROPS Design 07.06.2013 kl. 14:01:

Bonjour Mme Lemaux, c'est peut-être une question de tension ? les 2 ms crochetées au-dessus des 2 ml doivent avoir la même largeur que les dB du début du chapeau, soit 22 dB = 10 cm. Bon crochet!

Nadine 09.01.2011 - 21:24:

Super kul hat !!

Christine 08.01.2011 - 23:51:

Like this one too, only need a summer to wear it in

Carrie 08.01.2011 - 00:12:

Love this hat!

Adeline 10.12.2010 - 16:42:

Vous allez finir par me faire commencer le crochet!!!

Ghislaine 09.12.2010 - 14:44:

Trés joli modele , j'attends les explcations avec impatience .

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