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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Tamzyn |
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Knitted domino jacket in garter st for baby and children in DROPS Delight
DROPS Baby 20-15 |
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INCREASE TIP: Inc 1 st in each side of marker by making 1 YO. Work YO twisted on next row (i.e. knit in back loop of st instead of front loop) to avoid holes. ---------------------------------------------------------- JACKET: Work the piece sideways. Work 2 pieces and finish by sewing pieces tog in the back. Work the pieces from the sleeve towards the mid of jacket. RIGHT HALF: Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 36-38-40 (40-42-44) sts on circular needle size 3 mm with Delight. K back and forth on all rows until completed (= garter st). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 6-6-5 (5-6-6) cm, inc 1 st in each side, repeat the inc on every 8th row a total of 6-7-9 (11-13-14) times = 48-52-58 (62-68-72) sts. Work until piece measures 17-19-20 (25-29-33) cm – adjust so that the last row is worked from WS. BODY: K 1 row (= RS), at end of row cast on 41-43-50 (53-58-60) sts (= towards the back) = 89-95-108 (115-126-132) sts. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! K 1 row, turn, insert a marker in the 2nd st on needle from RS (= in right side). Continue – AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st on each side of the st with marker every other row a total of 38-40-46 (48-50-52) times – SEE INCREASE TIP. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 8.5 - 9 - 10.5 (11 - 12 - 13) cm work only over the last 60-65-74 (79-86-91) sts in the left side seen from RS (= back piece), slip the remaining sts on a stitch holder. BACK PIECE: Work until piece measures 13-14-16 (17-18-19) cm (from where back piece sts was cast on), cast off. FRONT PIECE: Put sts from stitch holder back on needle but leave 9-10-10 (10-12-12) sts towards the back on the stitch holder for neckline. Continue inc on every other row – AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st towards the neck (= towards sts on stitch holder) on every 4th row a total of 6-7-7 (7-7-7) times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 14-15-17 (18-19-20 cm (from where inc on front piece started and towards mid front) cast off for 3-4-4 (5-5-5) button holes as follows (from neck, i.e. from WS): K 2, cast off 2 sts, * K 12-9-11 (9-10-10) sts, cast off 2 sts *, repeat from *-* a total of 2-3-3 (4-4-4) times, K rest of row. On next row cast on 2 new sts over the cast off sts. After all inc and dec there are 90-93-109 (115-121-126) sts on the needle. When finished with inc on right side, cast off 51-52-62 (66-70-74) sts from the neckline and down the front band of jacket (cast off from WS) = 39-41-47 (49-51-52) sts left on needle. K back and forth over these sts for approx. 1-1-2 (2-3-3) cm (fold piece at the shoulder and check that the front piece is the same length as back piece). Cast off. LEFT HALF: Work as right half but without button holes – this piece is assembled with wrong side out. ASSEMBLY: Put the 2 pieces towards each other and sew tog mid back – sew edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam. Fold the jacket and sew underarm and side seams in front loop of outermost sts. Sew on buttons. NECKLINE: Knit up 55 to 80 sts (including sts on stitch holder) around the neck on circular needle size 3 mm with Delight. K 3 rows back and forth, cast off. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (191)
Carmen Grieco wrote:
Se puede realizar con dos agujas?
06.01.2021 - 13:21DROPS Design answered:
Hola Carmen, en la primera talla si, pero para otras tallas necesitas aguja circular. Buen trabajo!
03.02.2021 - 15:20Helga Voss wrote:
Hallo, ich meine die Jacke: Knitted domino jacket in garter st for baby and children in DROPS Delight Im Netz gibt es Bilder dieser Jacke in blau bzw. in pink. Welche Farb-No. hat die pinke Wolle? Leider gibt es im Umkreis von 60 km kein Wollgeschäft, der DROPS vertreibt - daher hoffe ich auf Ihre HILFE. Danke im voraus!
05.01.2021 - 12:46DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Voss, was meinen Sie mit dem Netz? Sollte es in unserer Facebook Seite oder unser Instagram sein? Ihr DROPS Laden kann Ihnen gerne auch telefonisch oder per mail damit helfen - hier finden Sie die Liste von DROPS Händlern in Deutschland. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
05.01.2021 - 14:41Helga Voss wrote:
Hallo, liebes Drops-Team! Danke für die prompte Antwort. Es gibt bei Delight 2 Farben mit pink etc. Welche wurde für die Jacke verwendet? Möchte sie gerne genauso stricken wie das Foto im Netz, oder gibt es Fotos, auf denen man den Farbverlauf sehen kann? Liebe Grüße
05.01.2021 - 09:48DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Voss, leider weiss ich nicht, von welcher Jacke Sie sprechen - Ihr DROPS Laden kann Ihnen aber sicher gerne damit helfen, die Farbe zu wählen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
05.01.2021 - 11:49Helga Voss wrote:
Hallo, habe im Netz dieses Jäckchen auch in rosa /pink mit blau gesehen. Welches Garn wurde hierfür verwendet (Nummer)? Danke für kurze Info!
03.01.2021 - 19:57DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Voss, hier finden Sie die Farbkarte für Delight, vielleicht finden Sie dort die gewünschte Farbe - diese Jäckchen kann mit einem Garn der Garngruppe A gestrickt werden, dh auch Fabel, Alpaca usw... benutzen Sie unseren Garnumrechner um die Alternative zu sehen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
05.01.2021 - 09:31Inger Nymann wrote:
ærmet er strikket, nye masker til ryg er strikket, afmaskning af ryg er sket. Udtag 2 m på hv a. pind 40 g= skrå linie, aflukning til hals og knaphuller ok. Problem: hvordan fremkommer forstykkets nederste skrå del fra den stiplede linie og ned? I skriver: efter alle ud- og indtagninger er der 90 masker???? jeg har ca 60
20.10.2020 - 19:53DROPS Design answered:
Hei Inger. Usikker på hvilken størrelse du strikker. Du skriver at det skal være 90 masker etter alle fellingene og økningene (= str. 1/3 mnd.), men også at du har økt 40 ganger (= str. 6/9 mnd.) Har du husker å øke med 1 masker på hver side av masken med merke på? mvh DROPS design
26.10.2020 - 12:51Janet wrote:
I think the needle size in the pattern is wrong. I had to start again, increasing the size from 3 to 3.75, and I noticed too late that the yarn label recommended 3.75. Apart from that, the pattern's ingenious and the finished product looks great.
12.09.2020 - 17:36DROPS Design answered:
Dear Janet, needle size is only a suggestion, depending on your own tension you might have to use smaller/larger needle - read more about tension here. Happy knitting!
14.09.2020 - 10:04Elliporelli wrote:
Hallo an das Team von Drops Design, ich kann stricken, komme nicht so recht mit der Anleitung klar. Gibt es eine Möglichkeit mir aufzuzeigen wie ich quer (rechte Seite) anfange auf einem Bild zu zeigen wo ich zunehmen muss. Sorry, irgendwie hab ich einen Denkfehler. Ich benötige ihre Hilfe. Die Zeichnung hab ich mir schon aufgemalt und ausgeschnitten... Könnten sie mir helfen? Herzlichen Dank Elisabeth
17.04.2020 - 10:18DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Elliporelli, die Zunahmen bei dem Vorderteil wird beidseitig von der Masche mit der Markierung entstehen (immer die selbe Masche, dh davor und danach wird die Maschenanzahl zunehmen), diese Zunahme macht so eine Linie (= die gestrichte Linie in der Maßskizze). Die später am Vorderteil abgekettene Maschen werden dann für den unteren Rand (die ersten zugenommenen Maschen bis zur Markierung). Viel Spaß beim stricken!
17.04.2020 - 10:41Catherine wrote:
Bonjour, après avoir terminé la 1ère manche et monté les mailles du côté, quand je tricote plusieurs rangs avec les augmentations, mon ouvrage ne correspond plus au croquis qui, lui, forme un angle plus que droit entre la manche et le côté. Mon ouvrage commence à faire un angle aigu. Est-ce normal, dois-je continuer? Merci pour votre éclairage.
06.03.2020 - 14:33DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Catherine, dans le schéma, la ligne pointillé correspond à la maille avec le marqueur (= sur le devant du gilet). Les mailles avant le marqueur (= à droite de cette ligne) sont les augmentations faites + les mailles avant le marqueur. vous avez donc un angle droit qui va se former, et, quand vous rabattrez les 51-74 mailles du devant, il restera celles du bas (= les 39-52 m soit les 16-22 cm du bas du devant). Bon tricot!
06.03.2020 - 14:59Catherine wrote:
Bonjour, je suis un peu perdue après le montage des mailles DOS-DEVANT. Quand on a monté les mailles à la suite du rang devant, on doit revenir, donc sur le dos. Est-ce à la fin de ce rang DOS qu'on met le marqueur? Je lis pourtant: tricoter un rang ENDROIT, tourner. A quel moment faut-il tourner? Après les nouvelles mailles montées? ou au bout de la manche?
01.03.2020 - 09:53DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Catherine, quand la manche a atteint la longueur souhaitée, on va tricoter 1 rang sur l'endroit et monter les mailles du dos à la fin de ce rang. On tourne, on tricote 1 rang endroit. On met un marqueur dans la 2ème maille à droite sur l'endroit (= c'est la maille avec un marqueur qui va servir aux augmentations du devant = la ligne pointillé dans le schéma). Maintenant, vous augmentez tous les rangs sur l'endroit de chaque côté de cette maille avec un marqueur (le nombre de mailles avant le marqueur (et après) va augmenter). Bon tricot!
02.03.2020 - 10:33Bettina wrote:
Guten Tag! Ich finde diese Baby-/Kinderjacke so toll, dass ich sie mir gerne selbst stricken würde. Fragen: Spricht etwas gegen diesen Schnitt für Erwachsene? Haben Sie einen Tipp zum umrechen/anpassen an die Damen-Kleidergröße 38? Das würde mich sehr freuen. Mit vielem Dank für die großartigen Seiten und Anleitungen! Bettina
09.02.2020 - 15:12DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Bettina, diese Jacke ist vielleicht die einige, die ähnliche ist, auch wenn sie nicht genauso gestrickt wird. Viel Spaß beim sticken!
10.02.2020 - 09:30