DROPS / 122 / 40

Silver Bright by DROPS Design

Long DROPS jacket in garter st with hood in ”Eskimo”. Size S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no EE-328
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio
1200-1350-1500-1650-1800-1950 g colour no 46, medium grey

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 10 mm - or size needed to get 9 sts x 18 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS BUFFALO HORN BUTTON, no 536:
6-6-6-7-7-7 pcs.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 1.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 2.40 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 45.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.

MEASUREMENT TIP:
Because of the weight of the yarn make all measurements while the garment is hanging otherwise it will be too long when worn.

BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front piece.
1 BUTTONHOLE = Cast off third st from mid front and cast on 1 new st on next row.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 41, 51, 61, 71, 81 and 91 cm
SIZE M: 43, 53, 63, 73, 83 and 93 cm
SIZE L: 45, 55, 65, 75, 85 and 95 cm
SIZE XL: 43, 52, 61, 70, 79, 88 and 97 cm
SIZE XXL: 46, 55, 64, 73, 82, 91 and 100 cm
SIZE XXXL: 49, 58, 67, 76, 85, 94 and 103 cm

KNITTING TIP (applies to hood):
To avoid a hole in each transition when sts are slipped on stitch holder pick up thread between 2 sts and work this tog with first st on needle.

INCREASING TIP (applies to pockets):
Inc 1 st inside 1 st each side by making 1 YO. On next row K YO into back of loop to avoid a hole.
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JACKET:
Worked in parts, back and forth on circular needle.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 52-55-60-62-68-72 sts on circular needle size 10 mm with Eskimo. Work GARTER ST - see above - back and forth on needle. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 12-12-12-14-14-14 cm - See MEASUREMENT TIP - dec 1 st each side and repeat the dec each side on every 10-10-10-12-12-13 cm a total of 7-7-7-6-6-6 times = 38-41-46-50-56-60 sts. When piece measures 76-78-80-82-84-86 cm - REMEMBER MEASUREMENT TIP – cast off for armhole at the beg of every row each side as follows: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-0-1-1-2-3 times and 1 st 1-2-2-4-4-4 times = 30-31-32-32-34-34 sts. When piece measures 95-98-101-104-107-110 cm cast off the middle 8-9-10-10-10-10 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Cast off 1 st on neckline on next row = 10-10-10-10-11-11 sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 97-100-103-106-109-112 cm.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 30-32-34-35-38-40 sts (includes 4 front band sts towards front edge) on circular needle size 10 mm with Eskimo. Work garter st back and forth on needle - NOTE: work the 2 sts towards front edge in 2 strands until finished measurements (use a separate ball) and slip first st from mid front as if to K and K this at the end of next row. When piece measures 12-12-12-14-14-14 cm dec at the side as described for back piece = 23-25-27-29-32-34 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 41-43-45-43-46-49 cm - REMEMBER MEASUREMENT TIP – make BUTTONHOLES - see above. When piece measures 76-78-80-82-84-86 cm cast off for armhole at the side as described for back piece – cast off at the beg of every row from the side = 19-20-20-20-21-21 sts. Continue until piece measures 92-94-96-98-101-104 cm. Now slip the 6 sts towards front edge on a stitch holder for neck (work sts first to avoid having to cut the thread). Slip sts at the beg of every row from mid front on the same stitch holder as follows (work sts first): 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 1-2-2-2-2-2 times = 10-10-10-10-11-11 sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 97-100-103-106-109-112 cm.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work like right front piece, but mirrored. NOTE: Do not make buttonholes.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 30-30-32-32-34-34 sts on circular needle size 10 mm with Eskimo and work garter st back and forth on needle. When piece measures 20-20-20-22-22-22 cm - REMEMBER MEASUREMENT TIP - dec 6 sts evenly (from RS) = 24-24-26-26-28-28 sts. On next row (= WS) inc 1 st each side and repeat the inc on every 6-5-5-3.5-3-2.5 cm a total of 5-6-6-7-8-9 times = 34-36-38-40-44-46 sts. When piece measures 48-48-48-46-46-44 cm - NOTE! Less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder- cast off for sleeve cap at the beg of every row each side as follows: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 5-6-7-8-9-10 times, then 2 sts at the beg of every row each side until piece measures 56-57-58-58-59-59 cm. Now cast off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows, cast off remaining sts. Piece measures approx 57-58-59-59-60-60 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams. Set in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams - sew edge to edge in outer loops of sts to avoid a chunky seam. Sew buttons on left front piece.

HOOD:
Pick up approx 35 to 42 sts round neck (includes sts on stitch holders at front) on circular needle size 10 mm with Eskimo. K 1 row from WS, AT THE SAME TIME pick up thread between 2 sts to avoid a hole in transitions at front – See KNITTING TIP. Continue in garter st back and forth on needle – NOTE: work the 2 sts each side towards front edge in 2 strands until finished measurement and slip first st from mid front as if to K and K this at the end of next row. After 8 rows garter st inc evenly on next row from RS to 48-50-52-54-56-58 sts - NOTE: do not inc on the 4 sts each side (= front bands). Continue in garter st until hood measures 47-47-48-48-49-49 cm and cast off. Place hood double and sew tog at the top.

POCKET:
Cast on 3 sts on circular needle size 10 mm with Eskimo. Work garter st back and forth on needle. AT THE SAME TIME after 2 rows inc 1 st each side – See INCREASING TIP. Repeat the inc each side on every other row a total of 10 times = 23 sts. Continue in garter st until pocket measures 23 cm from cast on row, cast off loosely. Make 2.
Place the pockets on each front piece approx 6-8 cm from mid front and approx 26-38 cm from bottom edge (or try on jacket for correct placement) – REMEMBER MEASUREMENT TIP – and sew on.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 122-40) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (75)

Lucia 01.05.2020 - 13:24:

Hallo. Habe wiedereinmal eine Frage. Bei den Vorderteilen: Verstehe ich das richtig, dass die Maschen auf der Hilsnadel NICHT abgekettet werden?? Grüssli

DROPS Design 04.05.2020 kl. 10:38:

Liebe Lucia, bei den Vorderteilen legen Sie einige Maschen für den Halsausschnitt still, diese Maschen stricken Sie bei der Kapuze wieder. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Lucia 22.04.2020 - 11:28:

Hallo. Ich habe noch zwei Fragen beim Vorderteil: 1. Das mit dem Doppelfaden stricken habe ich verstanden. Aber muss ich 2 oder 4 M mit Doppelfaden stricken? 2. Es steht, nach 14 cm wie Hinterteil abk. Muss ich auch die M mit doppelfaden abk?

DROPS Design 22.04.2020 kl. 11:58:

Liebe Lucia, beim Vorderteil stricken Sie nur die 2 Maschen gegen der Mitte (= Blendemaschen) mit 2 Fäden (Doppelfaden) = die 2 ersten Maschen bei den Hinreihen. Die Abnahmen wie beim Rückenteil stricken Sie auf die andere Seite (= wo die Seite mit dem Rückenteil zusammengenäht wird), dh am Ende der Hinreihe beim rechten Vorderteil (Anfang Hinreihen beim linken Vorderteil), dh nur 7 oder 6 Maschen werden je nach der Größe abgenommen und nicht 14 oder 12 Maschen wie beim Rückenteil. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Lucia 20.04.2020 - 16:29:

Hallo. Ich bin keine Anfängerin, aber auch kein Profi. Bin jetzt bei den Armlöcher vom Hinterteil angekommen . Ich habs schon x-mal gelesen, aber ich verstehe den nächsten Schritt nicht. Könnten Sie mir das erklären?? Vielen Dank im Voraus Lucia

DROPS Design 20.04.2020 kl. 16:40:

Liebe Lucia, für die Armausschnitte sollen Sie je nach der Größen am Anfang jeder Reihe (Hin- sowie Rückreihe) so abketten: 3 Maschen 1 Mal dann 2 Maschen 0-0-1-1-2-3 Mal und 1 Masche 1-2-2-4-4-4 Mal = 30-31-32-32-34-34 Maschen sind jetzt übrig (bei der 1. und 2. Grösse z.B. werden Sie beidseitig nur 3 Maschen 1 Mal und 1 Masche 1-2 Mal abketten). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Adela 18.02.2020 - 00:30:

Hello. I need some help with this part. I am not sure with neck line on right front side."Now slip the 6 sts towards front edge on a stitch holder for neck (work sts first to avoid having to cut the thread). Slip sts at the beg of every row from mid front on the same stitch holder as follows (work sts first): 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 1-2-2-2-2-2 times = 10-10-10-10-11-11 sts left on shoulder. " Thanks

DROPS Design 18.02.2020 kl. 07:19:

Hi Adela, This means you add further stitches to the stitch holder on every row from the neck - so if you are working the left shoulder at the beginning of every row from the right side. When you work right shoulder, it will be every row from the wrong side. All the added stitches are worked first before putting them on the holder. I hope this helps and happy knitting!

Marian 27.11.2019 - 10:55:

Ik heb gratis patroon aangevraagd maar nog niks in mn mail gehad gr marian

DROPS Design 02.12.2019 kl. 08:54:

Dag Marian,

Op onze site kun je de patronen gratis downloaden met de knop 'Afdrukken' welke je vlak onder de materialenlijst vindt. (Het gaat dus niet via e-mail)

Karin 28.01.2019 - 09:51:

Drops Eskimo kriebelt/prikt dat? Rekt dit vest heel erg door de ribbel of stopt het uitzakken?

DROPS Design 03.02.2019 kl. 12:46:

Dag Karin,

Eskimo is pure wolgaren en als je daar gevoelig voor bent, kan het inderdaad wat kriebelen. Hoewel Eskimo vrij dik garen is, is het ook heel luchtig, waardoor het uithangen mee zal vallen. Eskimo kan wel wat vilten en pillen na verloop van tijd.

Rey 04.10.2018 - 11:08:

Bonjour je voudrait faire se modèle mais je travail avec des aiguilles n4 avec la laine de zeenman .elle pèse 100 g et fait 241 m 100 % a acrylique serrait t'il possible de me donner les explication pour faire en aiguilles normal merci en français pour travailler en aiguilles n'4 merci . Madame rey Lynda .

DROPS Design 04.10.2018 kl. 13:00:

Bonjour Mme Rey, Nous sommes en mesure de pouvoir proposer des modèles gratuits grâce à nos fils à tricoter et à crocheter vendus dans le monde entier. Vous comprendrez ainsi que nous ne pouvons que vous recommander d’utiliser l’une de nos qualités. N’hésitez pas à contacter le magasin où vous avez acheté votre laine ou bien auprès de votre magasin DROPS pour toute assistance. Merci pour votre compréhension.

Anna 09.02.2018 - 21:17:

Hello, I made a sample and I get 9 sts x 13 rows not 18 rows (= 10 x 10cm). What should I do now. I did it by 10mm needels. I don’t know how to change the pattern to do it correct. Please help!

DROPS Design 11.02.2018 kl. 09:42:

Dear Anna, sis you do the swatching with garter stitch? (with garter stitch you need significantly more rows than with stocking stitch). If your stitch count is fine (horizontally), but (vertically) you have less rows than necessary, I would follow the pattern but I would make sure that everywhere I knit enough rows, so the piece is the same length as given in the pattern. (Insert the extra rows eveny in between). Happy Knitting!

Guro Berge 20.01.2018 - 09:39:

Takk for kjekk oppskrift! Jeg ønsker å strikke jakken uten hette. Har dere noen tips?

DROPS Design 24.01.2018 kl. 10:00:

Hei Guro. Det best er å se hva du selv ønsker av kant når jakken er ferdig strikket. Du kan evnt strikke de 4 rillene som er beskrevet først i hetten og så felle av, evnt færre riller for en mindre kant. Evnt ingen kant i riller, men hekle en kant rundt. God Fornøyelse!

Yvon Huibers 19.09.2016 - 19:31:

Hoi, ik wil graag dit patroon met drops cloud breien, in fisherman's steek. Gaat dit? Hoeveel wol heb ik dan nodig? En hoe bereken ik hoeveel steken ik moet opzetten? Alvast bedankt! Groet Yvon

DROPS Design 19.09.2016 kl. 21:06:

Dat kan, u kunt alle garens uit categorie E gebruiken. Hoe u uitrekent hoeveel garen u nodig hebt, leest u hier: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=14&cid=7

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