DROPS Baby / 19 / 5

Little Pixie by DROPS Design

Jacket in moss st knitted in one piece with hood, textured pattern and cables for baby and children in DROPS Merino Extra Fine

Tags: cable, hood, jackets,
DROPS design: Pattern no ME-046-by
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Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: 50/56- 62/68- 74/80 (86/92-98/104)

Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
250-300-300 (350-350) g colour nr 01, off-white.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) size 4 mm – or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS WOODEN BUTTON, no 511: 4-4-5 (5-5) pcs.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 3.10 £ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
JACKET:

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 to M.3. Diagram shows the pattern from RS. First row in M.1 and M.3 = WS.
BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band. 1 buttonhole = K tog 2nd and 3rd st from mid front and make 1 YO. K YO on next row.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
Size 1/3 months: 4, 10, 16 and 22 cm.
Size 6/9 months: 4, 11, 18 and 24 cm.
Size 12/18 months: 3, 9, 15, 21 and 27 cm.
Size 2 years: 3, 10, 17, 24 and 31 cm.
Size 3/4 years: 3, 11, 19, 27 and 34 cm.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front up to the armhole. Then front and back pieces are worked separately and new sts cast on each side for sleeves. The jacket is assembled sewing the upper arm/shoulder and under arm seams.
BODY PIECE:
Cast on 117-131-145 (155-169) sts (includes 6 front band sts each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4 mm with Merino Extra Fine. Work 6 rows GARTER ST – see above (first row = RS), then K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st in the 10th and 11th st from mid front, repeat the inc at the end of row (in 11th and 10th st on needle) = 121-135-149 (159-173) sts. Insert a marker 34-38-42 (44-48) sts in from each side (= 53-59-65 (71-77) sts between markers on back piece). Now work next row as follows from WS: 6 garter sts (= front band), M.3 (= 10 sts), M.2 on the next 89-103-117 (127-141) sts, M.1 (= 10 sts) and 6 garter sts (= front band). Continue in pattern like this - REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES ON RIGHT FRONT BAND - see above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 16-17-20 (23-25) cm divide piece by markers and complete front and back pieces separately.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 34-38-42 (44-48) sts. Continue in pattern as before, AT THE SAME TIME cast on new sts for sleeve at the end of every row towards the side as follows: 4 sts 2-2-3 (3-3) times, 8 sts 1-1-1 (1-3) times, 10 sts 1-1-1 (2-1) times and 19-22-23 (23-24) sts 1 time = 79-86-95 (107-118) sts - NOTE: incorporate inc sts in M.2 as you go along. After the last inc continue as before but work 10 sts towards sleeve edge in garter st (= folding edge on sleeve). When 1 row remains before piece measures 23-25-28 (32-35) cm – adjust to a row from WS - dec 2 sts over cable by P2 tog twice on the 4 cable sts. On next row from RS slip 9-11-12 (12-13) sts towards mid front on a stitch holder for neck. Cast off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2-2-3 (3-3) times = 62-67-74 (86-96) sts left on needle (= shoulder + sleeve). Continue in M.2 and cast off when piece measures 27-29-33 (37-40) cm.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Like right front piece but mirrored.

BACK PIECE:
= 53-59-65 (71-77) sts. Continue in M.2 as before, AT THE SAME TIME cast on new sts each side at the end of every row as described for front piece = 143-155-171 (197-217) sts. Now continue in M.2 with 10 garter sts each side on sleeve edges. When piece measures 25-27-31 (35-38) cm cast of the middle 17-19-21 (23-23) sts for neck and complete each shoulder/sleeve separately. Cast off 1 st on neckline on next row = 62-67-74 (86-96) sts left on needle (= shoulder + sleeve). Cast off when piece measures 27-29-33 (37-40) cm. Repeat on the other side.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder/upper arm seams, edge to edge with neat sts. Sew under arm seams. Sew on buttons. Fold the bottom 5 cm on both sleeve edges towards RS, if needed attach with a few sts.

HOOD:
Pick up from RS approx 55 to 75 sts round neck (includes sts from stitch holders at front) on circular needle size 4 mm with Merino Extra Fine. K 1 row from WS, then K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly to 85-89-93 (97-101) sts. Continue in M.2 with 6 sts each side in garter st - AT THE SAME TIME cast on 6 new sts at the end of the next 2 rows for folding edge = 97-101-105 (109-113) sts – work these 6 sts in garter st. Continue in M.2 with 12 garter sts each side until hood measures 21-23-25 (27-28) cm, cast off. Fold hood double and sew tog at the top. Fold the garter st edge double towards RS and attach at the bottom each side.

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2, K2 from cable needle

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 19-5) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (86)

Gloria 18.11.2019 - 02:24:

I just completed this sweater in size 12/18 mos. I swatched and measured as per the directions. The completed garment measures as it should. I ordered 6 skeins of the suggested yarn (300g) but ran out about 2” shy of the finished hood. I was lucky enough to find another skein in the same dye lot. However I would like to suggest knitters get 7 skeins for this size. It is no fun to run out. I am very happy with the finished product.

Anna 30.09.2019 - 08:49:

Buon giorno Quando devo chiudere le maglie delle maniche,si chiudono a punto riso? Grazie

DROPS Design 30.09.2019 kl. 15:45:

Buongiorno Anna. Può chiudere le maglie a punto riso. Buon lavoro!

Anna 26.09.2019 - 13:11:

Buon giorno Sto lavorando la manica destra ,mi trovo in difficoltà quando avvio le 4 maglie al ferro di ritorno li lavoro a diritto e poi a punto riso? Mi sono confusa

DROPS Design 26.09.2019 kl. 14:04:

Buongiorno Anna. Lavora le maglie aumentate per le maniche subito a punto riso. Buon lavoro!

Anna Maria 25.09.2019 - 11:23:

Buon giorno m2 si lavora da destra verso sinistra il secondo rido sempre da destra verso sinistra o viceversa? Geazie

DROPS Design 25.09.2019 kl. 11:33:

Buongiorno Anna Maria. Le righe lavorate sul rovescio del lavoro (quindi in questo caso anche la prima riga del diagramma che è lavorata sul rovescio) si leggono da sinistra verso destra. Le righe lavorate sul diritto del lavoro, si leggono da destra verso sinistra. Il diagramma inoltre è letto dal basso verso l'alto. Buon lavoro!

Anna 25.09.2019 - 08:04:

Buon giorno Sto lavorando la prima misura ,ho fatto sei giro a legaccio Non ho capito il diagramma

DROPS Design 25.09.2019 kl. 09:36:

Buongiorno Anna. La prima riga dei diagrammi viene lavorata sul rovescio del lavoro, in questo modo: M3: 3 m diritto, 3 m rovescio, 3 m diritto; ripete M.2 (1 m diritto, 1 m rovescio) sulle 89 maglie successive; M1: 3 m diritto, 3 m rovescio, 3 m diritto. Buon lavoro!

Marja 16.07.2019 - 10:36:

Hoe ga ik op de rondbreinaald te werk zodra ik het werk moet gaan verdelen? Dus het rechtervoorpand moet gaan breien?\r\nLaat ik alle steken op de rondbreinaald staan? Of ga ik verder met een losse naald van 4 mm?\r\nAlvast bedankt voor je hulp!\r\nGroetjes,\r\nMarja

DROPS Design 22.07.2019 kl. 11:11:

Dag Marja,

Je kan de steken van het achterpand (en de steken van het linker voorpand) op de rondbreinaald laten staan of op een hulpnaald zetten en de steken van het rechter voorpand heen en weer breien (met een rechte naald of een rondbreinaald.

Diahann 24.06.2019 - 22:35:

Hi! Do you knit on the RS: M1, M2 and then M3? Or do you always knit M3, M2 and M1 regardless of which side you are on?

DROPS Design 24.06.2019 kl. 22:41:

Hello Diahann. On right side you knit M1, M2 and then M3. Happy knitting!

Susanna Pohjonen 08.02.2019 - 21:57:

Hei! Tein helmineuleisen palmikkojakun hupulla vauvalle ja siitä on nyt tullut kyselyitä. Saako kyseisellä ohjeella tehtyjä paitoja myydä eteenpäin somessa?

DROPS Design 18.02.2019 kl. 17:50:

Hei, emme salli malliemme mukaan neulottujen töiden myymistä. Voit kuitenkin antaa neuleita lahjaksi.

Jp 27.09.2018 - 19:04:

Dann verstehe ich die Zeichnung nicht. Da in der Erklärung steht, dass hinreihe rechts und Rückreihe links gestrickt werden soll!??!

DROPS Design 28.09.2018 kl. 08:21:

Lieber JP, oops Sie sind ja rechts, die 1. Reihe bei allen Diagramme ist eine Hinreihe = wird links nach rechts gelesen, und die 2. Reihe (mit Zöpfe) wird die Hinreichen = rechts nach links gelesen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

JP 24.09.2018 - 19:55:

Hallo, ist beim Maschensatz (M1-M3) lediglich die Hinreihe gezeichnet oder Hin- und Rückreihe? Vielen Dank

DROPS Design 25.09.2018 kl. 10:01:

Liebe JP, alle Reihen sind im Diagramme gezeigt, die Hin- sowie die Rückreihen. Die Hinreihen lesen Sie rechts nach links (von der rechten unteren Ecke) und die Rückreihen lesen Sie links nach rechts. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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