DROPS / 110 / 14

Loch Lomond by DROPS Design

DROPS neck warmer in moss st in ”Snow”. Size S - XXXL. Yarn alternative "Polaris".

Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS Snow
450-500-550-600-650-700 g colour no 14, dark grey

Alternatively use 1 thread DROPS Polaris
100% pure new wool, 100 g = 36 meters.

DROPS circular needle (80 cm) size 8 mm – or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in moss st with Snow = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS circular needle (80 cm) size 15 mm – or size needed to get 7 sts x 8 rows in moss st with Polaris = 10 x 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
DROPS Snow uni colour DROPS Snow uni colour 1.90 £ /50g
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DROPS Snow mix DROPS Snow mix 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Snow print DROPS Snow print 2.40 £ /50g
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100% Wool
from 4.10 £ /100g
DROPS Polaris uni colour DROPS Polaris uni colour 4.10 £ /100g
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DROPS Polaris mix DROPS Polaris mix 4.70 £ /100g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Moss st:
Row 1: * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row 2: K over P and P Over K.
Repeat row 2.

SNOW:
Neck warmer: Worked in the round. Cast on 132-144-156-168-180-192 sts on circular needle size 8 mm with Snow, P 1 round and continue in rib, K3/P3. When piece measures 8 cm continue in moss st – see above, at the same time inc 1 st on first row = 133-145-157-169-181-193 sts. Insert 6 Marking Threads (MT) in piece with approx 22-24-26-28-30-32 sts between each. Remember the knitting tension! When piece measures 10 cm dec 2 sts to the right and to the left alternately of each MT (dec by P3 tog) on every 7-6-6-5-5-4.5 cm a total of 5-6-6-7-7-8 times = 73-73-85-85-97-97 sts. When piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm inc 2 sts to the right of each MT = 85-85-97-97-109-109 sts. When piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm dec 1 st = 84-84-96-96-108-108 sts, and now continue in rib, K3/P3. Cast off in rib when piece measures 72-74-76-78-80-82 cm.

POLARIS:
Neck warmer: Worked in the round. Cast on 84-90-96-108-114-120 sts on circular needle size 15 mm with 1 thread Polaris, P 1 round and continue in rib, K3/P3. When piece measures 8 cm continue in moss st – see above, at the same time inc 1 st on first row = 85-91-97-109-115-121 sts. Insert 6 Marking Threads (MT) in piece with approx 14-15-16-18-19-20 sts between each. Remember the knitting tension! When piece measures 10 cm dec 2 sts to the right and to the left alternately of each MT (dec by P3 tog) on every 15-15-15-10-10-10 cm a total of 3-3-3-4-4-4 times = 49-55-61-61-67-73 sts. When piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm inc 2 sts to the right of every other MT (= 6 inc sts) = 55-61-67-67-73-79 sts. When piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm dec 1 st = 54-60-66-66-72-78 sts, and now continue in rib, K3/P3. Cast off in rib when piece measures 72-74-76-78-80-82 cm.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 110-14) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (46)

Samantha Freeman 09.05.2020 - 02:13:

Are the measurements on this for the total in the round or half of the total, so just for the front? Or back? So is 87cm for all the way round us just the measurement when pressed flat? Hope this makes sense.

DROPS Design 11.05.2020 kl. 09:04:

Dear Mrs Freeman, the measurements are taken when piece lies flat - read more about measurement chart here. Happy knitting!

Lene Kristensen 08.12.2019 - 00:34:

Eskimogarn: Når arb. måler 10 cm skal der så tages ind med det samme eller først når der er strikket 6 cm mere på? Hvordan skal der tages ind? Skiftevis højre og venstre side af markør på alle runder eller fx kun højre side af markør på runde 1 og så venstre på runde 2, højre på runde 3 og så fremdeles?

DROPS Design 09.12.2019 kl. 10:52:

Hei Lene! Når arbeidet måler 10 cm skal det felles. Det felles ved å strikke 3 masker vrangt sammen, hvordan det gjøres kan du se her . Det skal felles vekselsvis på høyre og venstre side, det betyr at når det har blitt fellet på høyre side, skal det felles på venstre side på neste omgang. Husk at det skal felles bare på hver 7.-6.-6.-5.-5.-4½.cm, totalt 5-6-6-7-7-8 ganger (73-73-85-85-97-97 masker). Lykke til!

Lene 27.11.2019 - 20:12:

Til opskrift Loch Lomond\r\nNår der tages ud første gang, hvordan skal det gøres?\r\nJeg kan så ikke få perlestrik mønsteret til at blive korrekt. \r\nSå vil der være 2 ret eller 2 vrang i træk.\r\nHvordan skal jeg gøre?\r\n\r\nVh Lene

DROPS Design 28.11.2019 kl. 08:53:

Hei Lene! Første gangen det skal økes, økes det 1 maske. Det totale maskeantallet vil da være et oddetall/ulige, og perlestrikken skal kunne gå opp uten at det blir to rette eller to vrange masker etter hverandre. Om perlestrikken ikke stemmer kan det være fordi det totale maskeantallet er et partall. For å øke kan det gjøres slik Lykke til!

Mariarita 28.11.2018 - 16:39:

Spettabile Staff,buon pomeriggio.Vorrei sapere se è possibile "allungare" questo modello,in modo cioè da renderlo più un simil poncho che un coprispalle.Le spiegazioni (ossia gli aumenti e le diminuizioni) si prestano ad essere spostate in termini di giri?Grazie per la cortese attenzione.Tutta la mia gratitudine per le ispirazioni che mettete a disposizione.Buona serata e buon lavoro.Rita

DROPS Design 28.11.2018 kl. 19:03:

Buonasera Mariarita. Per un aiuto così personalizzato, può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore Drops di fiducia. Può anche vedere se tra i modelli di poncho proposti, ne trova uno che incontra il suo gusto. Buon lavoro!

Jessica 10.11.2018 - 06:18:

About how many yards of Polaris (or other super bulky) would I need for the small size?

DROPS Design 12.11.2018 kl. 08:24:

Dear Jessica, you will find yarn amount under the header: 700 g DROPS Polaris /100 g a ball = 7 balls in the smallest size. Try our yarn converter to get alternatives. Happy knitting!

Eden 17.07.2018 - 02:27:

Quelle est unité de mesure pour les brochets et les crochets,,,,us, mm ou bwg,,, merci

DROPS Design 17.07.2018 kl. 09:26:

Bonjour Eden, dans les modèles français, l'unité des aiguilles et crochets est le système métrique, pour l'équivalence en US, changez le modèle en anglais US ou consultez le tableau de conversion. Bon tricot!

Beginner 24.09.2017 - 16:31:

Hello, If I am decreasing with 3 purl before the marker and 3 purl after the marker, I will have decreased 4 stiches per marker which makes is 24 stiches decreased per round. If I do it 6 times, it is too many stiches I am decreasing.

DROPS Design 25.09.2017 kl. 00:06:

Dear Beginner, in each row / round, you should decrease before and after the marker ALTERNATELY, in other words either before, or after the marker, and that means you deacrease only 2 stitches at once. I hope this helps. Happy Knitting!

Larissa 17.08.2017 - 16:40:

Ich verstehe die Abnahme nicht ganz genau: Was ist damit gemeint, dass ich abwechselnd links und rechts abnehme? In einer Reihe abwechselnd mal links und mal rechts? Oder in der ersten Abnahmereihe alle Abnahmen links, in der nächsten Abnahmereihen alle Abnahmen rechts vom Markierungsfaden? Lieben Dank für Eure Hilfe!

DROPS Design 28.08.2017 kl. 11:50:

Liebe Larissa, bei der 1. Abnahme wird es rechts jeder Markierung abgenommen, bei der 2. Abnahme wird es links jeder Markierung abegnommen, und immer so weiter abenehmen, dh abwechselnd rechts und links jeder Markierung. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Linda 22.02.2017 - 21:05:

Jag har fastnat! Hur ökar man två m i mosstickning utan att det blir hål?

DROPS Design 23.02.2017 kl. 12:58:

Hej Linda. Du kan strikke for og bag i 1 m, saa kommer der ikke hul.

Frisotti 10.10.2016 - 22:50:

En version eskimo, en xl, diminuer en tricotant 3 mailles ens chaque côté des 6 marqueurs et à 7 reprises, j'enlèverai 24 mailles 7 fois donc un total de 168 mailles. Est-ce que ça ne devrait pas plutôt être des diminutions en tricotant deux mailles ens chaque côté des 6 marqueurs à 7 reprises? Alors j'enlèverais 12 mailles 7 fois pour un total de 84 mailles.169 mailles - 84 = 85 mailles restantes une fois toutes les diminutions terminées. Y a t'il une erreur dans les instructions ?

DROPS Design 11.10.2016 kl. 09:19:

Bonjour Mme Frisotti, les augmentations se font en tricotant 3 m ens à l'env d'abord à droite du marqueur (= 6 diminutions par tour) puis à gauche du marqueur (= 6 diminutions par tour), 5-6 fois au total soit 6 dim x 5-6 = 30-36 m. Il reste 73 m dans les 2 premières tailles. Bon tricot!

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