DROPS Extra / 0-169

DROPS Extra 0-169 by DROPS Design

DROPS jumper in “Ardesia” in moss st with large turtle neck. Size M.

DROPS Retro 1980-1993

Size: Medium

Materials: DROPS Ardesia from Garnstudio
500 g colour no 6036, grey

DROPS circular needle (80 cm) size 3 and 7 mm - or size needed to get 12 sts x 14 rows in double moss st on needle size 7 mm = 10 x 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
DROPS Ardesia DROPS Ardesia
85% Alpaca, 15% Acrylic
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

Moss st:
Row 1: * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row 2: P over K and K over P.
Repeat row 2.

Double moss st:
Row 1: * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row 2: P over P and K over K.
Row 3: P over K and K and K over P.
Row 4: like row 2.
Repeat row 1-4.

Jumper:
Worked from side to side in 1 piece, back and forth on circular needle. Beg with sleeve. Cast on 40 sts on needle size 3 mm and work 5 cm moss st. Change to needle size 7 mm and continue in double moss st, at the same time inc 1 st each side on every other row until piece measures 35 cm = 86 sts.
Now cast on new sts each side at the beg of every row:
3 sts 5 times each side, 4 sts 3 times each side = 140 sts.
Continue until piece measures 60 cm.
Now divide the piece with 70 sts on front piece and 70 sts on back piece. Slip sts for front piece on a stitch holder and continue on back piece. Cast off for neckline at the beg of every row from the top: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times = 66 sts.
Continue until piece measures 75 cm = mid back.

Slip all sts on a stitch holder and slip all 70 sts for front piece back on needle.
Cast off for neckline at the beg of every row from the top: 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times = 62 sts.
Continue until piece measures 75 cm.

You are now half-way through. Work the other half of jumper as described above, but dec instead of inc, and inc instead of dec. Finish with 5 cm moss st on needle size 3 mm and cast off.

Assembly: Sew sleeve and side seams. Pick up 80 sts round neckline on needle size 3 mm and work 2 cm moss st, cast off. Pick up approx 100 sts along bottom edge of jumper on needle size 3 mm and work 18 cm moss st, cast off.

Loose neck: Cast on 90 sts on circular needle size 7 mm and work 30 cm moss st, cast off.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-169) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (33)

Hayley Smith 17.07.2020 - 20:19:

What class of yarn was used for the photo? Was it chunky, aran?

DROPS Design 20.07.2020 kl. 07:30:

Hi Hayley, Drops Ardesia was a mix of 85% alpaca and 15% acrylic, and belonged to yarn group D. Check out this yarn group and find an equivalent yarn to use for this jumper. Happy knitting!

Kirsty Walker 17.06.2020 - 11:02:

Thanks but that wasn’t my question I’m asking, when you split the stitches do you use 2 balls of yarn (one new ball for back & original ball for front) & if so, how do you reduce it back to 1 ball when you have all 140 stitches back on the needle. If using only 1 ball of yarn how do you do that? The thread will only go to half way (first 70 stitches) & then as you knit back and forth it’ll eventually be 15cm higher than the other side to even possibly start with that same thread.

DROPS Design 17.06.2020 kl. 12:24:

Dear Mrs Walker, sorry for misunderstanding - you work front and back piece separately until they measure same height, then you work with only1 ball all the 140 sts (= one piece again, as at the very beg). Hope this answer now the question. Happy knitting!

Kirsty 16.06.2020 - 21:45:

Hi When splitting for front and back (70 / 70) the only way I could get my head around it was to knit with 2 balls (one for front and one for back) when I get to midway and start reversing the pattern (140 stitches on one needle) how do I rejoin so I’m only using one ball of yarn to finish? I hope this isn’t a huge mistake 🙈

DROPS Design 17.06.2020 kl. 08:14:

Dear Kirsty, you are supposed to work front and back piece separately for the neck, then take back all stitches on the same needle and work them together to the end (= with 1 ball). Happy knitting!

Hayley 22.04.2020 - 21:20:

Hi, I'm rather new to knitting. The yarn that is being at the store is measured in number weights such as 3, 4, 5, or 6. Is there a way to convert from the letter system where the thread is listed as D to a number?

DROPS Design 23.04.2020 kl. 09:46:

Dear Mrs Hayley, you will find the DROPS retailer in (contact Nordic Yarn)/shipping to Canada here - They will be able to help you choosing the best matching yarn. Happy knitting!

Hayley 21.04.2020 - 23:18:

I am looking to make this in a different colour. What weight of yarn is used? Is it a weight 4 yarn? or bulkier?

DROPS Design 22.04.2020 kl. 08:35:

Dear Hayley, you will read more about DROPS Ardesia here - and more about alternatives here. Happy knitting!

Marie Moureau 26.11.2019 - 12:18:

Pour ce modèle pourriez vous SVP nous donner des explications points par points pour la 2émé moitié de ce pull. Ont est plusieurs et personne n'en sort!!Merci

DROPS Design 26.11.2019 kl. 13:14:

Bonjour Mme Moureau, vous devez simplement tricoter la 2ème moitié du pull en sens inverse de la première: vous rabattez les mailles des manches dans le sens inverse où vous les avez montées = 3 x 4 m et 5 x 3 m, puis diminuez de chaque côté pour la manche, comme vous avez augmenté au début. Vérifiez les mesures à partir de l'encolure pour que tout soit symétrique. Bon tricot!

Lena Aamo 14.11.2019 - 20:10:

Om jag har storlek L-XL ..hur många maskor ska jag lägga på?

DROPS Design 18.11.2019 kl. 14:08:

Hei Lena. Denne modellen har vi bare utregningen til str M. Om du vil ha den større må du se på den oppgitte strikkefasthet og regne ut hvor mange flere masker du vil legge opp til å få de ekstra cm du ønsker. God Fornøyelse!

Alice 14.11.2019 - 17:23:

I figured it out and I'm almost finished. It was turned out to be so easy. It looks great. Thanks.

Alice 12.11.2019 - 02:05:

Thank you for responding so quickly. After I finish the neck, and I have 140 stitches do I immediately decrease every row 3 sts 5 times each side, 4 sts 3 times each side or do I knit on the 140 stitches for 15 cm? Thanks for your help !

DROPS Design 12.11.2019 kl. 08:27:

Dear Alice, the 2nd part should be worked mirrored, so that after you have joined both pieces again (= 140 sts ) after neck, work as many rows before starting to decrease/cast off as you worked on the first part between last sts cast on and dividing piece for neck. Happy knitting!

Alice 10.11.2019 - 15:41:

I have finished the first half and I do not know where to start the second half. Where in the pattern do I start working down?I have 140 stitches on the needle. Do I knit on 140 stitches for 60 cm or do I divide the piece and work from there? I am so confused. Please tell me what line on the pattern to start the second part. Thank you!

DROPS Design 11.11.2019 kl. 11:10:

Dear Alice, I'm sorry, I'm not sure to understand where you are exactly in the pattern. You are first working from the bottom of sleeve (increasing) until there are 140 sts, then work until piece measures 60 cm from cast on edge. Now you divide piece into 2 parts worked separately (back and front) shaping neck (= dec then inc again) ; then after neck, work both pieces together to finish the piece mirrored = dec instead of inc and inc instead of dec. Happy knitting!

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