DROPS / 85 / 13

Richard by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket for men, with raglan, high neck and zipper in DROPS Karisma and DROPS Alpaca

DROPS 85-13
Sizes: 12/14 years - S/M - L - XL - XXL

Finished measurements:
Chest: 102-108-114-124-136 cm
Hem: 92-98-104-114-124 cm


Materials: DROPS KARISMA SUPERWASH from Garnstudio
600-700-800-850-950 gr nr 01, natural
and use:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-600 gr nr 0618, beige

DROPS 4.5 mm and 5.5 mm circular and double-pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

1 Zipper: 55-65-70-70-70 cm long

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100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
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100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 59.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Gauge: 15 sts x 21 rows with 1 strand of each yarn on larger needles in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm.

Rib: *K 1, P 1*, repeat from *-*.

Pattern: The diagrams are showing all rows seen from the right side.

Decreasing tips (for raglan):
All decs are made on the right side.
On front- and back piece dec before the 3 sts before/after the marker, and on the sleeves dec right beside the marker.
Start 2 sts before the marker on the sleeves and 5 sts before the marker on front and back, and work as follows:
K 2 tog, 1 st in seed st, K 1, 1 st in seed st, slip 1 st as if to knit, K 1, psso.
___________________________________________________________________

BODY
The cardigan are worked back and fort on circular needle.
Cast on 137-147-155-171-187 sts on smaller circular needles with 1 strand Karisma + 1 strand Alpaca. Knit rib, keeping 3 sts in garter st at each side for front edges, and begin and end rib with K 1 (seen from the right side).
When the piece measures 3-4-4-4-4 cm change to larger circular needles and Pattern 1, keeping 3 sts in garter st at each side for front edges. See that the K rib in the pattern is above the K rib in ribbing.
Place a marker in the 36-38-40-44-48th st in from each side (it will be a K 1), there are 65-71-75-83-91 sts between markers on back.
When the piece measures 10-12-12-12-12 cm inc 1 st at each side of both sts with markers. Inc every 5-6-6-6-6 cm a total of 4 times = 153-163-171-187-203 sts – knit the increased sts into the pattern as you go along.
When the piece measures 32-40-41-42-43 cm bind off 7 sts at each side for armholes (= bind off the st with the marker + 3 sts each side of that st) = 67-73-77-85-93 sts on back and 36-38-40-44-48 sts on each front.
Lay piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVES
Sleeves knitted in the round.
Cast on 32-34-36-36-40 sts on smaller double-pointed needles with 1 strand Karisma + 1 strand Alpaca; join and place a marker at the join. Knit rib – start with K 1 at marker.
When the piece measures 6-8-8-8-8 cm change to larger double-pointed needles and Pattern 1 – see that the K rib in the pattern is above the K rib in the ribbing.
When the piece measures 10-14-10-14-10 cm inc 1 st each side of the K st at marker every 2.5-2-2.5-2-2.5 cm a total of 14-16-16-17-17 times = 60-66-68-70-74 sts – knit the increased sts in the pattern as you go along.
When the piece measures 45-48-50-50-52 cm bind off 7 sts at marker (bind off the the K st at marker + 3 sts each side of it) = 53-59-61-63-67 sts.
Lay piece aside and knit second sleeve.

YOKE
Put the sleeves in on the same circular needles as Body where you bound off for armholes = 245-267-279-299-323 sts
Put a marker in each transition between Body and sleeves = 4 markers. Knit 3-1-1-1-0 rows before beginning shaping.
Read entire section before knitting:
Raglan shaping: Dec at each side of all markers (= 8 decs) – see Decreasing tips above – every other row 21-23-24-25-27 times.

Neck:
When the piece measures 49-57-59-60-62 cm put 3-4-5-6-6 sts at each center front edge on st holders for the neck. Then bind off at each neck edge every other row: 2 sts 2-0-0-2-4 times and 1 st 2-6-6-4-2 times.
After all shaping is complete 59-63-65-71-75 sts remain.

Neckband:
Pick up and knit approx. 10-16 sts at each side of neck on fronts (including sts on st holders) with 1 strand of each yarn and put all sts on smaller circular needles. K 1 row from wrong side, then K 1 row from right side, adjusting (inc/dec) to 83-83-91-103-111 sts on 2nd row. Then knit rib, keeping 3 sts in garter st at each side and beginning rib with K 1 (as seen from the right side). When the collar measures 20-22-22-24-24 cm bind off all sts in rib.

ASSEMBLY
Sew opening under the sleeve.
Sew in zipper – start at lower edge. Fold the collar in half to wrong side and stitch in place, covering end of zipper.

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 85-13) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (88)

Teresa Mas 04.12.2020 - 10:53:

In the decreasing tips for raglan, I have a question: when it says " K 2 tog, 1 st in seed st, K 1, 1 st in seed st, slip 1 st as if to knit, K 1, psso" does it mean that when I knit the wrong side of the jacket I should knit K those stitches in seed?

DROPS Design 04.12.2020 kl. 11:59:

Dear Mrs Mas, if the stitch in seed stitch is worked K from RS it should be K from WS, and if this stitch is worked P from RS it should be P from WS - this video shows how to knit seed stitch back and forth. Happy knitting!

Teresa Mas Pinto 03.12.2020 - 21:50:

Tengo otra duda: en la disminución para el raglán, cuando dice: 1 punto de arroz, quiere decir que en la vuelta por el revés debo tejer, en estos puntos de arroz, puntos derechos? Muchas gracias.

Teresa Mas Pinto 03.12.2020 - 11:41:

No sé si entiendo bien la disminución para el raglán. Cuando dice: 2 pjd, 1 pt en pt arroz, 1d, 1 pt en pt arroz, desl 1 pt del derecho, 1d, pasar pt desl por encima. Esta secuencia debo seguirla siempre, empezando 2 puntos antes cuando estoy en las mangas y 5 puntos antes cuando estoy en el frente y en la espalda? Muchas gracias por su ayuda.

Donatella 30.11.2020 - 11:55:

Buongiorno sarà sicuramente una domanda sciocca ma mi domando come riesco a seguire il diagramma M1 dopo gli aumenti a 12 cm del corpo. Se lo schema indica di lavorare 1 m. diritto e 1 m. rovescio aumentando una maglia a lato della maglia diritto poi mi si scombina lo schema fatto fin qui.

DROPS Design 02.12.2020 kl. 08:46:

Buongiorno Donatella, deve aumentare 1 maglia per lato del segnapunti, quindi 2 maglie, e incorporarle nella lavorazione. Buon lavoro!

Teresa Mas 18.11.2020 - 23:34:

Sleeves knitted in the round. How I can knit pattern 1? Should I always knit like in the ribbing: *K 1, P 1*? If so, the wrong side of the sleeves will not look as the wrong side of the body. Thanks a lot.

DROPS Design 19.11.2020 kl. 10:22:

Dear Mrs Mas, when you work in the round, work the sts as they should look like from RS, ie row 1 in M.1 will be worked: P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1 (= as all odd numbered row) and on row 2 you will knit all stitches (as all even numbered row). Repeat these 2 rows to get the same pattern in the round on the sleeves as for the body. Happy knitting!

Emmeline Richter 18.11.2020 - 17:22:

Hej! Jeg er i tvivl om nederst på kroppen. Der står: "Strik Rib med 3 m retstrik og 1 r (set fra retsiden) i hver side mod midt foran.". Så der skal strikkes 3 m retstrik og 1 m glatstrik? Og skal dette kun gøres i hver ende, og resten er alm enkeltrib, eller skal det hele være 3 m retstrik og 1 m glatstrik? Håber det giver mening, på forhånd tak! Hilsen Emmeline Richter

DROPS Design 24.11.2020 kl. 09:32:

Hei Emmeline. Det er kun i sidene det skal strikkes 3 m rettstrikk + 1 r. Mellom disse maskene strikkes det vrangbord (1 rett, 1 vrang). mvh DROPS design

Elena 16.11.2020 - 01:09:

Hola me gustaría que me ayuden con el cuello pues no sé desde dónde mido la prenda si desde el resorte y hasta dónde, los puntos cómo debo coger en los ganchos .Saludos

DROPS Design 19.11.2020 kl. 09:58:

Hola Elena! Si es un jersey o una chaqueta, el largo se mide a partir del punto más alto en el hombro (usualmente lo más cerca al escote), y en línea recta hasta la parte de abajo de la prenda. NO se mide a partir de la punta del hombro. De manera similar, el largo del canesú se mide a partir del punto más alto en el hombro y en dirección hacia abajo hasta donde el canesú se divide para el cuerpo y las mangas. En una chaqueta, nunca se debe tomar las medidas a lo largo de los bordes delanteros, a menos que así se especifique. Siempre medir en el interior de los puntos de los bordes delanteros cuando se mide el largo de la prenda.

Eva -Mari 30.10.2020 - 13:48:

Går det att få köpa ett mönster jag har tyvärr ingen skrivare

Jacqueline FRANCOUAL-FOLTZER 04.06.2020 - 11:50:

Bonjour, la quantité de laine est très surévaluée. Pour une taille XL j'ai utilisé un peu plus de 300 g d'ALPACA (550 préconisés) et un peu plus de 500 g de KARISMA (850 préconisés). Sans compter les pelotes entamées pour les mises en attente, il me reste donc 4 pelotes intactes de chaque qualité. Y a t'il une possibilité de renvoi pour remboursement ?

DROPS Design 04.06.2020 kl. 13:08:

Bonjour Mme Francoual-Foltzer, merci pour votre retour - aviez-vous la bonne tension à la fois en hauteur et en largeur? Pour le renvoi des pelotes non utilisées, merci de bien vouloir contacter directement le magasin DROPS où vous les avez achetées, eux seuls peuvent vous répondre. Bon tricot!

Lea 20.04.2020 - 17:11:

Je suis désolée mais j'ai rarement vu un patron aussi mal expliqué. Tricoter sur aiguilles circulaires mais en aller-retour ? Ce n'est précisé nulle part. Il n'est fait mention du zip à aucun moment dans le tricot du devant non plus. "côté milieu devant" ? Ok, donc "arbre, fourchette, pylône", kamoulox. Vous devriez faire tester vos patrons avant de les publier. Le nombre de commentaires dans toutes les langues confirme que je ne suis pas la seule à galérer.

DROPS Design 21.04.2020 kl. 10:00:

Bonjour Lea, nous sommes désolés que vous ayez autant de souci avec ce modèle, il a été publié il y a quelques années et la façon d'écrire les explications a été modifiée depuis. Cette veste se tricote effectivement en allers et retours sur aiguille circulaire (plus d'infos ici) et le côté milieu devant correspond au milieu du devant de la veste = les bordures de chacun des devants. N'hésitez pas à poser votre question ici ou bien à contacter votre magasin pour toute assistance individuelle complémentaire. Bon tricot!

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