DROPS / 58 / 22

DROPS 58-22 by DROPS Design

DROPS hood / balaclava and gloves in Karisma Superwash.

Hood: one size.
Gloves: Small/Medium (Medium/Large)

Hood: 400 g Color No. 01, natural white
Gloves: 150 (150) g Color No. 01, natural white

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Pattern instructions

DROPS 2.5 mm and 3 mm circular needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge: 23 sts and 48 rows on larger needles = 10 x 10 cm.

Hood: The hood is worked back and forth on circular needle, beginning at top of head. You work from the opening towards the face, all around the head and to the other side of the opening towards face. The cast on edge will be sewn to itself at the end = seam on top of head. Later, you cast on stitches under chin and piece is now worked back and forth from mid-back
Cast on 100 sts on larger circular needles and knit in garter st back and forth. When the work measures 22 cm, inc on each side every other row: 1 st 2 times, 2 sts 5 times (= 12 stitches increased in each side) = 124 sts on needle. Now divide the work at the center back and knit all sts back and forth like so: work across sts on side of head towards the opening for face, cast on 28 stitches (= under chin), continue working across stitches on the other side of opening for face until you get to mid-back = 152 sts (you do this so that you will sew together at the center back). Measure the work from here. Knit 10 cm . On the next right side row inc 34 sts evenly distributed on the row. 186 sts. Knit 7 cm even. On the next right side row inc 26 sts evenly distributed on the row. 212 sts. On the next right side row inc 26 sts evenly distributed on the row . 238 sts. Knit 7 cm even. Bind off with double yarn.

Assembly: Sew the seam directly on top of the head from the right side with neat elastic sts. Pick up approximately 150 sts around the face opening on smaller circular needles and join. P 1 row, K 1 row, P 1 row, K 1 row, knit 6 cm in K1, P1 rib and bind off elastically. Fold the edge over against the wrong side and sew.
Sew the seam at the center back. Make a dense tassel approximately 8-10 cm in diameter and attach it to the peak at the center back.


DROPS 3 mm and 3.5 mm double pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge: 22 sts and 30 rows on larger needles in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm .

Rib: * K 2, P 2 . Repeat from * - *.

Gloves: Cast on 52 (56) sts on smaller double pointed needles. Join being careful not to twist the sts. Place a marker at the join and knit 4 rows in garter st, then rib for 15 cm . Dec 8 (8) sts evenly distributed on the last row = 44 (48) sts. Change to larger double pointed needles and stockinette st and place a marker after 22 (24) sts in the 23rd (25th) st. Inc the sts for the thumb on each side of this st. The remaining 21 (23) sts = inside the hand. Measure the work from here.

When the work measures 1 cm inc 1 st on each side of the marker stitch 5 (6) times every 4th row (every 3rd row). 54 (60) sts. After the thumb increases put the center 11 sts over the thumb on a stitch holder. Then cast on 1 new st over the sts on the stitch holder. 44 (50) sts. Continue until the work measures 10 (11) cm .

Knit the fingers as follows:
Little finger: Pick up 4 (6) sts from on top of the hand and 4 (5) sts from inside the hand and cast on 3 sts toward the ring finger for 11 (14) sts. Knit 5 (6) cm . On the next row, * K 2 tog * across and then pull the doubled strand through the sts. Knit 3 rows over the remaining sts on the glove before knitting the remaining fingers.
Ring finger: Pick up 6 (6) sts from on top of the hand and 6 (7) sts from inside the hand and cast on 1 st toward the little finger and one toward the center finger for 14 (15) sts. Knit 6 (7) cm . On the next row, * K 2 tog * across and then pull the doubled strand through the sts.
Center finger: Like the ring finger, but knit 7 (8) cm .
Index finger: Pick up 6 (6) sts from on top of the hand and 6 (7) sts from inside the hand and cast on 1 st toward the center finger for 13 (14) sts. Knit like the ring finger.
Thumb: Pick up the 11 sts from the stitch holder + 3 (5) sts toward the hand and knit 6 (6.5) cm and bind off as on the ring finger.

Sew a small invisible st between the fingers.

Knit another glove, but with the thumb on the opposite side.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 58-22) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (8)

Fran Boxer 27.08.2019 - 21:50:

Could you translate the comments into English?

DROPS Design 28.08.2019 kl. 08:46:

Dear Mrs Boxer, we are unfortunately not able to translate every comment into every language, please feel free to use an online translator - should you have any question, please ask them here and remember your DROPS store will provide you any further individual assistance. Happy knitting!

Mille 22.01.2019 - 09:31:

Jeg forstår heller ikke de udtagninger. Kunne i forklare med billeder?. Er opskriften kun den ene side og man skal strikke én side mere? Når man deler arbejdet midt på. Hvor mange masker deles med? Kan i beskrive hele opskriften nærmere. Jeg har spurgt flere steder og ingen forstår det. Vh Mille.

DROPS Design 29.01.2019 kl. 11:38:

Hei Mille. Du øker totalt 12 masker i hver side (= åpningen til ansiktet). Du øker 1 maske på annenhver pinne 2 ganger, så øker du 2 masker på annenhver pinne 5 ganger. Videre skal du nå strikke frem og tilbake, fra midt bak (= midten av arbeidet ditt), du strikker da til du kommer til ansiktsåpningen, legger opp 28 masker, fortsetter videre over maskene på den andre siden av ansiktsåpningen til du kommer midt bak. Snu og strikk videre frem og tilbake, med åpningne midt bak. Oppskriftsteksten er oppdatert (hvis ikke den danske er oppdatert enda kan du se på den norske i mellomtiden). Det vil komme en video på dette etterhvert. God fornøyelse.

Jet Post 11.07.2018 - 18:20:

Ik ben een zeer geoefende breister, maar Ik begrijp helemaal niets van dit patroon, wat en waar is middenvoor (=MV) , is dit het begin van de naald, of is het steek 51. Er staat, brei ribbelsteek heen en weer vanaf MV, waar is MV? Is dan middenachter (=MA) het einde van de naald. Er staat gebruik een rondbreinaald, maar daar moet je heen en weer mee breien, ik dan dus ook een gewone breinaald gebruiken?\r\nHeeft u een tekening van de bivakmuts, dan snap ik misschien waar ik moet meerderen?

Melanie Kohl 28.09.2017 - 16:47:

Hallo, ich verstehe das mit der Maschenaufnahme nicht, nehme ich die Maschen.per Umschlag auf und Strick die Rückrunde nach Anleitung habe ich ja viele kleine. Löcher werden die Maschen per doppelstich aufgenommen? Aber wie komme dann der Gesichtsausschnitt zustande, finde diese Mütze sehr schön. Schade das sie nicht von unten in runden gestrickt ist, sondern man eine Naht hat.

DROPS Design 28.09.2017 kl. 17:29:

Liebe Frau Kohl, für die Zunahmen können Sie Ihre gewöhnlich technik arbeiten (siehe z.B. dieses Video). Sie arbeiten hin- und zurück (so ist es einfacher, dh immer rechts stricken), zuerst vom Gesichtsausschnitt (bis 22 cm) dann, nachdem Sie die neuen Maschen angeschlagen haben, stricken Sie von hinten in der Mitte (so ist die Naht hinten und nicht vorne). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Bjørg 09.05.2017 - 10:11:

Hei igjen. mulig oppskriften er enkel og tidligere svar er opplysende , men jeg forstår det ikke og har vært innom 2 forskjellige garnbutikker og spurt om assistanse men heller INGEN der forstod oppskriften. I den ene butikken foreslo de til slutt at oppskriften måtte tolkes som at oppskriften skulle strikkes to ganger å så sy delene sammen .

DROPS Design 10.05.2017 kl. 08:17:

Jo du slår 100 m op strikker frem og tilbage i riller i 22 cm. (Opslåningskanten skal syes sammen så du får en søm midt ovenpå hovedet fra panden og bagud). Du slår nu nye masker op i hver side (de masker som går ind mod hagen) deler arbejdet midt bagpå (så du får en åbning midt bagpå) og strikker frem og tilbage fra midt bagpå. Bare følg opskriften, så ser du hvordan det er tænkt. God fornøjelse!

Bjørg 04.05.2017 - 01:46:

Jeg har nå strikket de første 22 cm rillestrikk. Hvor skal jeg øke maskene? I begynnelsen og slutten av hver pinne? Dette er veldig utydelig i oppskriften

DROPS Design 08.05.2017 kl. 15:51:

Hej Bjørg, se tidligere svar, da forklarer vi hvordan du gør :)

Dorte Hallenslev 15.11.2015 - 11:53:

Jeg kan ikke rigtig forstå denne opskrift. Hvor skal man tage ud, er det i siderne eller midt i strikketøjet??? Hvordan ser arbejdet ud når det er færdigt inden det sys sammen?

DROPS Design 25.11.2015 kl. 15:50:

Hej Dorte, Du strikker selve hætten først, frem og tilbage hvor hver side er mod hver side af ansigtet. Du tager m ud mod midt foran (halsen) hvor du da deler arbejdet midt bagpå og strikker da frem og tilbage mod midt bagpå. Der er bare at følge opskriften som der står. God fornøjelse!

Gunilla Nilsson 08.10.2013 - 15:28:

Hej! Ledsen men jag förstår inte texten i mössans mönstertext. Finns det bild på omonterad? mvh Gunilla

DROPS Design 09.10.2013 kl. 09:37:

Börja sticka enligt beskrivningen, så ger det sig :)

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 58-22

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.