DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 95-18
Size: S – M – L – XL – XXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 88-98-108-118-128 cm = 34 5/8”-38 1/2”-42 1/2”-46 1/2”-50 3/8”
Full length: 82-84-86-88-90 cm = 32 1/4”-33”-33 7/8”-34 5/8”-35 1/2”

All measurements in charts are in cm.

Materials: DROPS Muskat from Garnstudio
550-600-650-750-800 g color no. 09, light brown
and use
DROPS Vivaldi Special from Garnstudio
200-200-250-250-300 g, color no 28, rust-mix
and use
DROPS Snow from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes, color no 23, dark beige (for edge)

Drops pointed needle size 7 mm = US 10,75
Drops crochet hook size 8 mm = US L/11

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Knitting gauge: 14 sts x 17 rows with 1 thread of Muskat and 1 thread of Vivaldi on needle size 7 mm = US 10,75 = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”

Garter stitch: Knit all rows

Pattern: See diagram M.1 and M.2. Diagram is seen from the right side.

Decreasing tips (applies to neckline): Decrease within all garter sts on front piece from the right side. Dec as follows after garter sts: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso. Dec as follows before garter sts: K2 tog.
Measuring tips: The front bands will be slightly tighter than the jacket because of the garter sts. Therefore make all measurements mid front when front bands are slightly stretched.

Back piece: Cast on 73-79-87-93-101 sts (inclusive of 1 edge st each side, edge sts are knitted in garter st throughout) using both needles size 7 mm = US 10,75 with 1 thread Muskat and 1 thread Vivaldi (= double thread). Remove 1 needle and knit 4 rows garter st (1st row = right side).
Now knit as follows from the right side: 1 edge st, 0-3-0-3-0 stockinette sts, M.1A (= 3 sts), M.1B over the next 56-56-70-70-84 sts, M1.C (=12 sts), 0-3-0-3-0 stockinette sts and 1 edge st. Continue like this until you have knitted 1 repeat of M.1. Now continue in stockinette st, at the same time adjusting number of sts to 74-80-88-94-102 on first row. When piece measures 17 cm = 6 3/4”, dec 1 st each side on every 9-9-9-10-10 cm = 3 1/2”-3 1/2”-3 1/2”-4”-4” a total of 5 times = 64-70-78-84-92 sts. When piece measures 63-64-65-66-67 cm = 24 3/4”-25 1/4”-25 1/2”-26”-26 3/8” dec for armhole each side on every other row as follows: 3 sts 1-1-1-2-2 times, 2 sts 1-2-3-3-4 times and 1 st 2-2-3-2-3 = 50-52-54-56-58 sts. When piece measures 80-82-84-86-88 cm = 31 1/2”-32 1/4”-33”-33 7/8”-34 5/8” bind off the middle 14-14-14-16-16 sts for neck. Dec 1 st at neckline on next row = 17-18-19-19-20 sts left on each shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 82-84-86-88-90 cm = 32 1/4”-33”-33 7/8”-34 5/8”-35 1/2”.

Right Front: Cast on 43-46-49-57-57 sts (inclusive of 1 edge st at side and 12 front band sts towards middle front) using both needles size 7 mm = US 10,75 with 1 thread Muskat and 1 thread Vivaldi (= double thread). Remove 1 needle and knit 4 rows garter st (1st row = right side).
Now knit as follows from the right side: 12 front band sts in garter st, M.1A (= 3 sts), M.1B over the next 14-14-24-28-28 sts, M1.C (=12 sts), 0-3-6-0-0 stockinette sts and 1 edge st. Continue like this until you have knitted 1 repeat of M.1 (front band in garter st until finished measurements). Now knit next row as follows from the right side: 12 front band sts, 1 stockinette st, M.1D (= 3 sts), and stockinette st over the remaining 15-18-21-29-29 sts. Continue in pattern like this, at the same time adjusting number of sts on 2nd row after M.1 to 45-48-52-55-59 (do not dec/inc over the outermost 28 sts towards mid front).

Read all of the following section before knitting it!

Decreases at side: When piece measures 17 cm = 6 3/4” dec at side as described for back piece = 40-43-47-50-54 sts.

Collar: when piece measures 56-57-59-60-62 cm = 22”-22 1/2”-23 1/4”-23 5/8”-24 3/8” inc for collar within the outermost garter st towards mid front. Inc 1 st on every other row a total of 15 times by making a yo and knitting yo into back of st on next row.
Neckline: At the same time when piece measures 58-59-61-62-64 cm = 22 3/4”-23 1/4”-24”-24 3/8”-25 1/4” dec 1 st for neck – see Decreasing tips above – on every 4th row a total of 8-8-8-9-9 times.
Armhole: At the same time when piece measures 63-64-65-66-67 cm = 24 3/4”-25 1/4”-25 1/2”-26”-26 3/8” dec for armhole as described for back piece – at the same time finish M.1 (adjust after a full repeat) and continue in stockinette st.
Front band/collar: At the same time after M.1 increase the garter st part of the front band/collar by knitting an additional st in garter towards the side on every 4th row a total of 6-6-6-6-7 times. NB! Do not increase but replace a stockinette st with a garter st.
After all increases and decreases have been made for armhole and neckline there are 40-41-42-42-43 sts on needle (i.e. 33-33-33-33-34 garter sts and 7-8-9-9-9 stockinette sts).
When piece measures 82-84-86-88-90 cm = 32 1/4”-33”-33 7/8”-34 5/8”-35 1/2” bind off the outermost 17-18-19-19-20 sts for shoulder = 23 garter sts left on needle.
Collar: Continue in garter st over the remaining 23 sts as follows: *2 rows garter st over all sts, 2 rows garter st over only the 15 sts towards mid front*, repeat from *-* until collar measures 5.5-5.5-5.5-6.5-6.5 cm = 2 1/8”-2 1/8”-2 1/8”-2 1/2”-2 1/2” on the inner side (it will measures approx 11-11-11-13-13 cm = 4 3/8”-4 3/8”-4 3/8”-5 1/8”-5 1/8” on the outer side)

Left front piece: As right front piece, but mirrored.

Sleeve: Loosely cast on 35-35-37-39-41 sts using both needles size 7 mm = US 10,75 with 1 thread Muskat and 1 thread Vivaldi (= double thread). Remove 1 needle and knit 4 rows garter st (1st row = right side).
Now knit as follows from the right side: 10-10-11-12-13 sts in stockinette st, M.2 (= 15 sts) and 10-10-11-12-13 sts in stockinette st. Continue in pattern like this until you reach sleeve cap. Now discontinue M.2 – adjust after 1 full repeat of M.2 but do not knit the last row in pattern – and finish the piece in stockinette st.
Increases: At the same time, when sleeve measures 15 cm = 6”, inc 1 st each side on every 5.-3.5-3.5-3.-2.5 cm = 2”-1 1/4”-1 1/4”-1 1/8”-1” a total of 7-9-9-10-11 times = 49-53-55-59-63 sts – knit the new sts in stockinette st.
Sleeve cap: when piece measures 48-47-46-44-43 cm = 19”-18 1/2”-18”-17 1/4”-17” bind off for sleeve cap each side on every other row as follows: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2-2-2-3-3 times, 1 st 1-2-3-4-5 times, and then 2 sts each side until piece measures 56 cm = 22”, now dec 3 sts each side and bind off remaining sts when sleeve measures 56-57-57-57-57 cm = 22”-22 1/2”-22 1/2”-22 1/2”-22 1/2”.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Sew together collar mid back and sew collar to back piece. Set in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams within 1 edge st.

Crochet border: Use crochet hook size 8 mm = US L/11 and Snow and crochet as follows: 1 sc in first st, *1 ch, skip approx 2 cm = 3/4”, 1 sc in next st*, repeat from *-*. NB! The border should be even and not wavy.

Belt: Cast on 10 sts using needle size 7 mm = US 10,75 with 1 thread Muskat and 1 thread Vivaldi and knit as follows from the right side: 2 garter st, K2, P2, K2, 2 garter st. Continue like this and bind off when belt measures approx 120-150 cm = 47 1/4”-59”.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (11)

country flag Isa wrote:

Buenas tardes, mi duda es si en el delantero,después de la fila LD q viene especificada, cómo debo seguir,? En las indicaciones dice q seguir de la misma manera,a qué se refiere exactamente?? Sigo con el patrón M1???muchas gracias,un saludo

06.10.2022 - 17:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Isa, sí, tienes que seguir con el patrón M.1, siguiendo la división de puntos especificado en la primera fila (donde se reparte M.1 y punto jersey).

07.10.2022 - 00:17

country flag Pietsie wrote:

Nice fall lool

30.07.2019 - 06:58

Rhonda wrote:

Is there a size chart for this pattern?

14.12.2015 - 16:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rhonda, you will find a measurement chart at the bottom of the pattern, compare the measurement with a similar garment you have and like the size to find out the matching size. Read more about this here. Happy knitting!

15.12.2015 - 08:40

country flag Laura Pulkkinen wrote:

Kuvassa näyttää, että neule on tehty langasta joka vaihtaa väriä matkalla. Vivaldi-langoista ei kuitenkaan löydy sellaista lankaa. Mitä lankaa mallissa on käytetty ja mistä sitä saa. Tahtoisin ihan justiinsa tuollaisen...

24.09.2015 - 15:27

DROPS Design answered:

Neuleeseen on käytetty Vivaldi Special lankaa, joka valitettavasti ei enää kuulu valikoimaan. Voit yrittää etsiä kyseistä lankaa esim. huutonetistä.

12.10.2015 - 16:10

country flag Biou Françoise wrote:

Merci pour ces renseignements. Si j'ai bien compris dans le dos il n'y a qu'une bande de dessin dans le bas et le reste est tout en jersey.

19.08.2015 - 11:19

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Biou, c'est exact. Bon tricot!

19.08.2015 - 14:18

country flag Biou Françoise wrote:

Je pense qu'il y a des erreurs dans les explications de ce modèle de veste 95-18. Pour le dos je ne vois pas les diminutions sur les côtés. On dit de continuer en jersey endroit, ou et à quel moment? Il faut rajouter une maille à quel moment ? Le diagramme M1E, je ne vois pas dans les explications où on l'utilise. Merci de me répondre avec de meilleur explication

18.08.2015 - 16:33

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Biou, effectivement, différentes informations manquaient, après vérification, tout devrait être correct maintenant. Merci, bon tricot!

18.08.2015 - 18:57

wrote:

dejligt med trøjer der ikke er så korte

11.01.2006 - 16:50

country flag Britt Nyman wrote:

Jättesnygg. Fint mönster också.

04.01.2006 - 16:06

wrote:

SKØNT :D

22.12.2005 - 18:45

Mailinglisten wrote:

mmmysig!

13.12.2005 - 09:57