DROPS 92-3 by DROPS Design

DROPS Jumper in Snow

DROPS 92-3
Size: S – M – L – XL - XXL

Materials: Snow from Garnstudio
750-800-900-950-1050 g colour no. 35 apple green

Drops Circular needle and double pointed needles size 8 & 9 mm

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
DROPS Snow uni colour DROPS Snow uni colour 1.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Snow mix DROPS Snow mix 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Snow print DROPS Snow print 2.40 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting Gauge: 10 sts x 14 rows on needles size 9mm in moss stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

Pattern: See M.1 to M.4. Patterns are shown from the right side.

Rib (applies only to high neck): *1K, 3P*, repeat from *-*.

Back & Front piece: Cast on 84-92-100-116-124 sts on circular needles size 8 in Snow. Knit one round.
Knit rib as follows:
Size S: *K3, P1, K3, P4, K3, P3, K4, P3, K4, P3, K3, P4, K3, P1* Repeat from *-* one more time.
Size M: *K3, P3, K3, P4, K3, P3, K4, P3, K4, P3, K3, P4, K3, P3* Repeat from *-* one time more.
Size L: *K3, P5, K3, P4, K3, P3, K4, P3, K4, P3, K3, P4, K3, P5* Repeat from *-* one more time.
Size XL: *K3, P3, K3, P3, K3, P4, K3, P3, K4, P3, K4, P3, K3, P4, K3, P3, K3, P3* Repeat from *-* one more time.
Size XXL: *K3, P4, K3, P4, K3, P4, K3, P3, K4, P3, K4, P3, K3, P4, K3, P4, K3, P4* Repeat from *-* one more time.
Continue the rib like this until piece measures 8 cm. Change to circular needle size 9 and continue in M.1 as follows: *K3 (insert a marking thread in the centre of these 3 sts. = the side), P 1-3-5-9-11 sts, M.1 (= 37sts which increases to 45 sts on round ), P 1-3-5-9-11* Repeat from *-* 1 more time = 100-108-116-132-140 sts. After 1 report of M.1, continue knitting M.2 on the 45 centre sts on the front and the back piece (all other sts continue as before). Remember to check your knitting gauge! When piece measures 15 and 30 cm increase 1 st each side of the 3 knitted sts at the sides = 108-116-124-140-148 sts – purl the new sts. When piece measures 42-43-44-45-46 cm bind off for armhole each side: 5-5-7-7-7 sts (= the st with the marking thread + 2-2-3-3-3 sts on each side of it). Now finish back and front pieces seperately, knitting to and back and forth on the circular needles.

Front: = 49-53-55-63-67 sts. Bind off for armhole both sides on every other row: 2 sts 0-1-1-2-2 times and 1 st 1-1-1-3-4 times = 47-47-49-49-51 sts. When piece measures 51 cm – adapt the length so you will have a finished M.2 report – continue to knit M.3 on the centre 45 sts (all other sts continue as before in stocking sts.) At the same time, when piece measures approx 52-53-54-56-58 cm – adapt so you have done at least 2-4 rows after a “cable twist”, bind off the centre 3 sts for neck. Bind off at each neck edge on every row 1 st 11-11-12-12-12 times = 11-11-11-11-12 sts left for shoulder. Continue pattern until piece measures 61-63-65-67-69 cm. Now decrease 1 st on the 3 knitted sts on each shoulder = 10-10-10-10-11 sts. Bind off the remaining sts. The piece now measures approx 62-64-66-68-70 cm.

Back: = 49-53-55-63-67 sts. Bind off for armhole as on the front. Continue as on the front. When piece measures 51 cm –adapt so it will be the same length as the front – continue to knit M.3 on the centre 45 sts (all other sts continue as before in stocking sts.) When piece measures 59-61-63-65-67 cm - adapt so you have done at least 2-4 rows after a “cable twist” decrease 6 sts evenly over the center 15 sts (this is done to avoid the neck line expanding). On next row bind off the centre 17-17-19-19-19 sts for the neck. On the next row bind off at each neck edge 1 st. At the same time when the piece measures 61-63-65-67-69 cm decrease 1 st on the 3 knitted sts on each shoulder = 10-10-10-10-11 sts. Bind off the remaining sts. The piece now measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70 cm

Right sleeve: Cast on 28-28-28-30-30 sts on double pointed needles size 8 in Snow. Knit 1 round.
Knit rib as follows:
Size S + M + L: K3 (insert a marking thread in the centre of these 3 sts = centre of the sleeve) * P4, K3*, repeat from *-*, finish with P4.
Size XL +XXL: K3 (insert a marking thread in the centre of these 3 sts. = centre of the sleeve) P5, K3,P4, K3, P5, K3, P4.
Continue in rib like this. When sleeve measures 11 cm, increase every 3rd. K repeat from 3 to 4 = 29-29-29-31-31 sts. Change to double pointed needles size 9 and continue as follows: P 9-9-9-10-10, M.4 (= 9 sts), P11-11-11-12-12. At the same time, when sleeve measures 12 cm inc on both sides of the 3 sts at the centre every 11-8-5-4.5-4 cm a total of 4-5-7-7-8 times = 37-39-43-45-47 sts purl the new sts. When sleeve measures 47-46-46-43-43 cm bind off the centre 5-5-7-7-7 sts for armhole. Continue working to and fro on two needles. Bind off for the sleeve cap at each side, every other row 2sts, 1 time and 1 st 1-3-3-4-4 times. Continue to bind off 2 sts at each side until sleeve measures 54-55-55-56-56 cm. Bind off 3 sts at each side and bind off the remaning sts on next row. Sleeve measures approx 55-56-56-57-57 cm.

Left sleeve: Knit as right sleeve but reversed so that the placement of the cable pattern will be correct when sleeve is sewn into body.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams.

High Neck: Pick up 56 – 64 sts(must be divisible by 4) around the neck on double pointed needles size 8 in Snow.
P 1 round, K 1 round. Continue in Rib –see explanation above NB: make sure to have 3 purl sts in the centre of the front. At the same time on the first round knit a “bubble” in the centre of each 3 purl sts. (How to knit a “bubble” is explained in the pattern diagrams). When neck measures 8 cm bind off the centre front st. Continue to work to and fro on 2 needles. Knit P over P and K over K except for the first and last st on each side which are knitted in garter sts. When neck measures 12-12-12-14-14 cm bind off loosely.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = inc 1 st by working 2 sts in 1 st
symbols = no st (skip this square)
symbols = Bobble: Work from RS: K1, 1 YO, K1, 1 YO, K1 in the same st (= 5 sts). Work 4 rows stocking st on these 5 sts. Now pass 2nd st on right needle over first st, 3rd st over first st, 4th st over first st and 5th st over first st (= 1 st left).
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K3, P1 from cable needle.
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P1, K3 from cable needle.
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K3, K3 from cable needle.
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle.
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 92-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Anita wrote:

Ach so, auch mit dem cm zum Schluss ist es komisch…bei 65 cm soll ich noch Maschen abketten und bei 64 cm beenden? Sie haben bestimmt eine Erklärung dafür 😊Dankeschön

28.07.2022 - 19:30

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anita, hier gibt es ein Typo, in die 2. Größe nehmen Sie nach 63 cm ab (die 1. Größe fehlt hier), und 1 cm danach ketten Sie alle Maschen ab. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

01.08.2022 kl. 11:47

country flag Anita wrote:

Hallo ich verstehe beim Rückenteil die Rechnung nicht…wenn ich die mittleren 3 M. Abgenommen habe, befinden sich noch je 22 M. Rechts und 22 M. Auf der Nadel. Wenn ich dann rechts und links je 6 M. Für den Hals abnehme, habe ich noch 18 M. Alles was danach geschrieben steht, kommt nicht mehr hin. Können Sie mir bitte noch einmal weiterhelfen? Vielen Dank!!!

28.07.2022 - 18:15

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anita, beim Hals soll man 6 Maschen über die 15 mittleren Maschen abnehmen, und dann bei der nächsten Reihe ketten Sie die mittleren 17-17-19-19-19 M. für den Hals ab. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

01.08.2022 kl. 11:45

country flag Anita wrote:

Hallo, ich habe es herausgefunden 😄👍🏻👋🏻

17.07.2022 - 17:41

country flag Anita wrote:

Hallo, ich habe es herausgefunden. 😄👍🏻👋🏻

17.07.2022 - 17:40

country flag Anita wrote:

Hallo, ich komme mit der ersten Reihe nach dem Bündchen nicht zurecht, denn wenn ich bei dem leeren Kästchen mit dem kleinen Punkt 2 Maschen zusammen stricke, dann habe ich zu wenig Maschen. Können Sie mir bitte helfen! Vielen Dank und herzliche Grüße Anita

17.07.2022 - 16:42

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anita, Sie stricken bei Symbol "leeres Kästchen mit kleinem Punkt" nicht 2 Maschen zusammen, sondern stricken 2 Maschen aus 1 Masche heraus, d.h. Sie stechen 2x in dieselbe Masche ein und haben dann 1 Masche zugenommen. Dann passt es auch mit der Maschenzahl. Die Beschreibung des Symbols wurde nun etwas verdeutlicht. Gutes Gelingen weiterhin!

18.07.2022 kl. 09:49

country flag Stella wrote:

Est il possible d'avoir des tutos videos en entier pas à pas pour les débutants ? is it possible to have step by step videos of this sweater (and others patterns) for beginners ? thanks a lot

23.04.2020 - 11:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Stella, il n'est malheureusement pas possible d'avoir une vidéo pour chacun de nos modèles, toutefois, vous trouverez en bas de page des leçons et des vidéos expliquant les différentes techniques qui pourront vous aider. N'hésitez pas à poser votre question ici et si besoin, contactez votre magasin DROPS, même par mail ou téléphone, pour toute assistance individualisée. Bon tricot!

23.04.2020 kl. 14:58

country flag Sophie wrote:

Bonjour et tout d\'abord merci pour votre site merveilleux.\r\nJ\'ai l\'habitude de tricoter sur des aiguilles droites et à la manière anglaise, j\'ai donc un peu de mal à comprendre toutes les explications de ce modèle. Pour les manches, combien faut-il d\'aiguilles double pointe,2 ou 5?\r\nMerci d\'avance pour votre réponse même si ma question est un peu bête.

13.10.2018 - 21:21

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sophie, n'hésitez à vous aider de nos différentes vidéos qui montrent comment tricoter sur aiguille circulaire (c'est la même façon de faire avec le fil dans la main droite). Pour les manches, on va monter les mailles sur 4 aiguilles doubles-pointes et tricoter avec la 5ème ainsi. Bon tricot!

15.10.2018 kl. 09:15

country flag Joëlle LAGRANGE wrote:

Bonjour T. M emmanchures. On a 53 m devant. Il faut rab 0x2 donc 0 et 1x1 chaque côté = 2 m. 53 - 2 = 51. Comment trouvez vous 47 svp ? Merci

02.01.2018 - 12:46

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lagrange, en taille M, on va diminuer 1 x 2 m et 1 x 1 m, la correction a été faite, merci. Bon tricot!

03.01.2018 kl. 13:47

country flag Charade wrote:

Bonjour dans le model DROPS 92-3 , la grille des explications commence la première ligne sur l'envers puisque après il y a les torsades. Merci de me confirmer

30.12.2014 - 13:25

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Charade, le dos et le devant se tricotent en rond jusqu'aux emmanchures, le 1er rang de M1 sera donc tricoté sur l'endroit (comme les autres rangs) - quand vous rabattez les mailles des emmanchures, vérifiez bien que les rangs des torsades seront bien des rangs sur l'endroit. Bon tricot!

30.12.2014 kl. 14:36

country flag DROPS Deutsch wrote:

Die Erklärung zum daigramm steht am Ende der Anleitung.

14.02.2010 - 19:58

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