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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.60£.

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Winter Hug Hood

Knitted hooded scarf in DROPS Daisy and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked with pearl rib and I-cord. Sizes S - XL.

Highlight Size:

DROPS 253-61

#winterhughood

DROPS Design: Pattern da-041
Yarn group B + A
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SIZES:
S/M - L/XL
Fits head-size: 54/56 - 58/60 cm
Length from hood-opening approx. 41-43 cm
Width approx. 192-194 cm

YARN:
DROPS DAISY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-200 g colour 09, ice blue
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50 g colour 59, ice crystal

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 80 cm.

KNITTING TENSION:
19 stitches in width and 29 rows in height, with pearl rib and 1 strand of each quality on needle size 5 mm = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows, from both the right and wrong side.
1 ridge in height = knit 2 rows.

I-CORD CAST OFF:
Cast on 2 stitches on the right needle, slip these 2 stitches onto the left needle with the strand 2 stitches in on the left needle, * knit 1, knit the next 2 stitches twisted together, slip the 2 stitches from the right needle back onto the left needle *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left on the row.

I-CORD EDGE STITCHES (= 2 stitches):
BEGINNING OF ROW:
Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1.
END OF ROW:
Work until there are 2 stitches left on the row, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1.
Work like this from both the right and wrong side.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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HOODED SCARF - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The hood is worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid-front and backwards. Stitches are picked up on each side and the piece is continued downwards.
When the hood is finished the stitches are placed on a stitch holder. An edge is knitted up around the face-opening which is cast off with I-cord.
Stitches are cast on for the scarf, starting mid-back. These stitches are worked together with the stitches from the hood. When all stitches are knitted up on one side from mid-back (half the hood), one side of the scarf is finished back and forth. This is then repeated on the other side. The scarf is sewn together mid-back to finish.

HOOD:
Cast on 22-28 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm, 1 strand DROPS Daisy and 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk (2 strands). Cast-on edge = mid-front of hood.
Work back and forth as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): 1 GARTER STITCH – read description above, work pearl rib (knit 2, 1 garter stitch) to end of row.
ROW 2 (wrong side): 1 garter stitch, work pearl rib (purl 2, 1 garter stitch) to end of row.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 for 19-19 cm, with the last row from the wrong side. Cut the strand and slip stitches on another needle; this piece is top front of hood.

You now knit up stitches along both sides, inside the 1 garter stitch:
From the right side, start from the corner by the cast-on edge and knit up 36-36 stitches along one side (left side of piece), work across the 22-28 stitches with pearl rib as before (back of hood), knit up 36-36 stitches along the other side (right side of piece) = 94-100 stitches. Further measurements are taken from this knitted-up row.

ROW 1 (wrong side): 1 garter stitch, work pearl rib (purl 2, 1 garter stitch) to end of row.
ROW 2 (right side): 1 garter stitch, work pearl rib (knit 2, 1 garter stitch) to end of row
Work ROWS 1 and 2 until the piece measures 20-21 cm from the knitted-up row.

Cut the strand; the hood is finished. Place the first 47-50 stitches on a stitch holder and the last 47-50 stitches on a second stitch holder (divided mid-back). The stitches are for each scarf-length. Now work an I-cord edge around the hood as follows:

I-CORD EDGE:
Start bottom right of hood (when worn), knit up 34-36 stitches inside the 1 garter stitch as far as the knitted up row, 20-24 stitches along the cast-on edge mid-front and 34-36 stitches down the left side of the hood = 88-96 stitches around the opening.

Cut the strand. Start bottom right and work I-CORD CAST OFF – read description above. Cut the strand.
Place the remaining 2 stitches on the stitch holder together with the 47-50 stitches on the left side of the hood = 49-52 stitches for left scarf.
Pick up 2 stitches where 2 stitches were cast on for the I-cord edge on the opposite side, place these 2 stitches on the stitch holder with the 47-50 stitches on the right side of the hood = 49-52 stitches for right scarf.

RIGHT SCARF:
Stitches are cast-on for the scarf, AT THE SAME TIME as stitches are knitted together 2 and 2 from the hood. Start with the stitches at the division mid-back and work together with the right side of the hood as follows.

Cast on 30-30 stitches with 1 strand of each quality (2 strands) – this is the cast-on edge that will be sewn afterwards to left part of scarf = mid back.
ROW 1 (right side): Work 2 I-CORD EDGE STITCHES – read description above, knit 1, work pearl rib (1 garter stitch, knit 2) until there are 3 stitches left, 1 garter stitch, knit 1, slip 1 stitch knit-wise (= last stitch), knit 2 stitches together from the hood, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches from the hood = 30-30 stitches.

ROW 2 (wrong side): Work pearl rib (purl 2, 1 garter stitch) until there are 3 stitches left, purl 1, 2 I-cord edge stitches.

Work ROWS 1 and 2 until the first 46-50 stitches from the hood are picked up (= 46-50 rows worked). There are 3-2 stitches left on the stitch holder (including the 2 stitches picked up in I-cord).

Work as follows from the right side:
2 I-cord edge stitches, knit 1, 1 garter stitch, work pearl rib (knit 2, 1 garter stitch) to end of row, knit 1-2 stitches from the stitch holder, knit together 2 and 2 the last stitches 1-0 time = 32-32 stitches.

Work as follows from the wrong side:
2 I-cord edge stitches, purl 2 together, 1 garter stitch, work pearl rib (purl 2, 1 garter stitch) until there are 3 stitches left, purl 1, 2 I-cord edge stitches = 31-31 stitches.

Work 8 rows of pearl rib as before, with 2 I-cord edge stitches + 1 stocking stitch on each side.
On the next row (right side) decrease 1 stitch as follows:
Work as before until there are 4 stitches left, knit 2 together, 2 I-cord edge stitches.
Continue as before back and forth decreasing like this every 8th row (approx. each 3 cm) until there are 7-7 stitches left.
Cast off at the same time as the first and last 2 stitches on the row are knitted together. The scarf measures approx. 96-98 cm from the cast-on edge mid-back.

LEFT SCARF:
Work in the same way as the right scarf, working along the left side of the hood at the same time as 2 and 2 stitches from the hood are worked together with the first stitch on the row as follows:

Cast on 30-30 stitches with 1 strand of each quality (2 strands).

ROW 1 (wrong side): Work 2 I-cord edge stitches, purl 1, 1 garter stitch, work pearl rib (purl 2, 1 garter stitch) until there are 2 stitches left, purl 2.

ROW 2 (right side): Place 2 stitches from the stitch holder on the left needle, knit 3 together (2 stitches from stitch holder + 1 stitch from scarf), knit 1, work pearl rib (1 garter stitch, knit 2) until there are 4 stitches left, 1 garter stitch, knit 1, 2 I-cord edge stitches = 30-30 stitches.

Work ROWS 1 and 2 until the first 46-50 stitches from the hood are picked up (= 46-50 rows worked). There are 3-2 stitches left on the stitch holder (including the 2 stitches from the I-cord cast off).

Work as follows from the wrong side:
2 I-cord edge stitches, purl 1, 1 garter stitch, work pearl rib (purl 2, 1 garter stitch) to end of row, purl 1-2 stitches from the stitch holder, purl together 2 and 2 the last stitches 1-0 time = 32-32 stitches.

Work as follows from the right side:
2 I-cord edge stitches, slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, 1 garter stitch, work pearl rib (knit 2, 1 garter stitch) until there are 3 stitches left on the row, knit 1, 2 I-cord edge stitches = 31-31 stitches.

Work 7 rows of pearl rib as before, with 2 I-cord edge stitches + 1 stocking stitch on each side.
On the next row (right side) decrease 1 stitch as follows:
2 I-cord edge stitches, slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, work to end of row.
Continue as before back and forth decreasing like this every 8th row (approx. each 3 cm) until there are 7-7 stitches left.
Cast off at the same time as the first and last 2 stitches are knitted together. The scarf measures approx. 96-98 cm from the cast-on edge mid-back.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the cast-on edge of right and left sides of the scarf together mid-back with grafting stitches.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 16.01.2025
Pattern has been reviewed and updated. A measurement chart has been added.

Updated online: 27.01.2025
The yarn amount is updated. The information about tension is updated.

Diagram

	= knitting direction
	= Attach the hood to the scarf as follows: Place the stitches at the bottom of the hood on a thread. The scarf is knitted from the mid back to the front. At the same time as the scarf is worked, the stitches from the hood are knitted together with the scarf.
	= the scarf is worked sideways in 2 pieces from the mid back to the front, the scarf is sewn together on mid at the end when each side is finished

© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

From the #dropsfan gallery

We have 4 version/s of this pattern in the #dropsfan gallery. Have you made it too?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern #winterhughood or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

Winter Hug Hood

Gitte, Denmark

Winter Hug Hood

Gitte, Denmark

Winter Hug Hood

Coumont Ingrid, Belgium

Winter Hug Hood

Julia, Poland

Comments / Questions (33)

Lisbeth Lynghus wrote:

Jeg kan ikke forstå forklaringen på hvordan man kommer fra færdigstrikket hætte til at strikke højre halvdel af tørklædet . Jeg har læst alle svarene på det samme spørgsmål fra andre, tyske og svenske osv ,men det hjælper ikke på forståelsen . Det er den mest uforståelige opskrift jeg har prøvet ! Kan det forklares på en anden måde ???

10.02.2025 - 12:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lisbeth, har du set den video vi har lavet til hætten :)

12.02.2025 - 14:28

K-M wrote:

Onko siihen joku syy, miksi ohjeessa neuvotaan katkaisemaan lanka sen jälkeen, kun hupun aukon reunoilta on poimittu silmukat i-cord reunusta varten? Eikö silmukoita voisi poimia reunoilta niin, että jättäisi langan pään pitkäksi, ja tällä hännällä saisi silmukat poimittua? Silloin i-cord päättelyn voisi aloittaa oikeasta reunasta lankakerään menevällä langalla ja säästyisi ylimääräiseltä langan katkaisulta.

09.02.2025 - 08:04

Virgonia wrote:

Buongiorno, vorrei sapere come mai non riesco più a vedere le foto dei modelli gratuiti , grazie

08.02.2025 - 13:54

Buonasera Virgonia, le foto dei modelli sono visibili: se riscontra ancora problemi provi a svuotare la cache del browser o a cambiare browser. Buon lavoro!

09.02.2025 - 11:11

Gabriele Kraus wrote:

Hallo zusammen, ich hätte noch eine Variante anzubieten: da ich nicht gerne Teile zusammennähe, habe ich einfach für den linken Schal die 30 Maschen aus dem Anschlag des rechten Schals rausgestrickt. Dann noch darauf achten, dass das Muster wieder gleich verläuft und ...voila zusammennähen gespart...

07.02.2025 - 10:41

Fabiola wrote:

Bonjour,Je ne comprends pas vraiment ce que je dois faire. 1er rang sur l’endroit,1 maille point mousse et ensuite point fantaisie (2mailles endroit, 1 maille point mousse) ??? La,maille point mousse est quand même une maille endroit. Donc pour moi le premier rang est bien un rang ou toute les maille sont à l’endroit ainsi que la maille lisière ? Merci pour votre réponse.

06.02.2025 - 19:59

Bonjour Fabiola, tout à fait, la maille point mousse se tricote à l'endroit tous les rangs, les mailles endroit sur l'endroit se tricoteront à l'envers sur l'envers, autrement dit, vous aurez des côtes 2 mailles endroit, 1 maille point mousse, vu sur l'endroit. Sur l'endroit, vous tricotez toutes les mailles à l'endroit, et sur l'envers, vous tricoterez (cf. Rang 2): 1 maille point mousse, tricoter en côtes fantaisie (2 mailles envers, 1 maille point mousse) jusqu’à la fin du rang. Bon tricot!

07.02.2025 - 08:21

Hallo, Vielen Dank für die tolle Anleitung...Ich habe sie nun schon zum 3. Mal nachgestrickt. Bitte keine Angst davor, einfach anfangen...vieles klärt sich während des Strickens. Und seit die Schemazeichnung ergänzt wurde, ist es nochmal klarer... Danke für Eure wunderschönen Gratis Anleitungen, das ist nicht selbstverständlich...

06.02.2025 - 12:23

Adrienne wrote:

How do we measure head size?

05.02.2025 - 18:37

Dear Adrienne, measure head around the head on the largest part, ie on forehead. Happy knitting!

06.02.2025 - 16:29

Fanny Lemaire-Mur wrote:

Bonjour ,\r\nJe ne sais pas quelle taille je dois tricoter pour ma tête .\r\nComment le déterminer ?\r\nCordialement \r\nFanny

05.02.2025 - 11:13

Bonjour Mme Lemaire-Mur, le tour de tête se mesure au niveau du front approximativement - retrouvez les tailles correspondantes dans l'onglet "Explications" en haut de page. Bon tricot!

05.02.2025 - 13:23

Angela Long wrote:

Would it not be simpler to knit the scarg separately and the sew it onto the hood ? Also I have never seen 'garter stitch' used in this way. Why not describe the rib as follows..Row 1 ...knit. Row 2... knit 1 pearl 2.. The hood looks very pretty ...but now for the scarf!!

31.01.2025 - 11:15

Isabel wrote:

Hallo, ist es auch möglich anstelle von je einem Faden der Garngruppe A und B nur einen Faden der Garngruppe C zu verwenden?

29.01.2025 - 18:00

Liebe Isabel, also ja, solange Ihre Maschenprobe stimmt - hier lesen Sie mehr. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

30.01.2025 - 09:48

Winter Hug Hood

Knitted hooded scarf in DROPS Daisy and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked with pearl rib and I-cord. Sizes S - XL.

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Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to measure the knitting tension and how to calculate a pattern

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn

How to cast on

How to knit stitches

How to work purl stitches

How to increase stitches at the end of a row

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

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Winter Hug Hood

Winter Hug Hood

Winter Hug Hood

Winter Hug Hood

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Comments / Questions (33)

Winter Hug Hood

Knitted hooded scarf in DROPS Daisy and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked with pearl rib and I-cord. Sizes S - XL.

Diagram explanations

Do you need help with this pattern?

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	DROPS Daisy uni colour 100% Wool	2.45 £ /50g	Order
	DROPS Daisy mix 100% Wool	2.45 £ /50g	Order

	DROPS Daisy uni colour 100% Wool 2.45 £ /50g Order
	DROPS Daisy mix 100% Wool 2.45 £ /50g Order