DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Christmas Calendar

Moon Lace Cardigan

Crocheted jacket in DROPS Belle. The piece is worked bottom up with lace pattern and wide, sewn-in sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:
DROPS 249-32

#moonlacecardigan

DROPS Design: Pattern vs-107
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-450-500-550-600-650 g colour 01, white

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 522: 3 items in all sizes.

CROCHET HOOK
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 MM.

CROCHET TENSION:
20 stitches in width and 10 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller hook size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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CHAIN STITCH:
If you work outermost on the hook the chain stitch will often be too tight; 1 chain stitch should be as long as 1 double/treble crochet is wide.

PATTERN:
All diagrams show all rows in the pattern, seen from the right side.
Remember diagrams are read from left to right when working from the wrong side.
See diagrams A.1 to A.9.

CROCHET INFORMATION (mid-under sleeves):
At the beginning of each round, work 3 chain stitches (equivalent to 1 treble crochet), finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch.
When working the sleeves in the round, turn after each round, working alternately from the right and wrong side.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth from mid-front, bottom up as far as the armholes, divided for the front and back pieces and each piece then finished separately, back and forth.
The sleeves are worked in the round, bottom up as far as the sleeve cap, which is finished back and forth. The pieces are crocheted together. An edge is worked along the neckline to finish.

BODY:
Work 186-210-210-234-258-282 CHAIN STITCHES – read description above, with hook size 3.5 mm and DROPS Belle. Turn and work the first row from the wrong side as follows: 1 double crochet in the 2nd chain stitch from the hook, 1 double crochet in every chain stitch = 185-209-209-233-257-281 double crochets.
Work PATTERN – read description above, as follows from the right side: A.1 (= band), A.2 29-33-33-37-41-45 times in width, A.3 and finish with A.4 (= band). There are 183-207-207-231-255-279 stitches (29-33-33-37-41-45 treble-crochet groups with 3 chain stitches between each group and 3 treble crochets on each side (mid-front) for the bands.
Continue this pattern back and forth. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
When the piece measures 24-25-25-27-28-28 cm and the next row is from the right side, divide for the front and back pieces as follows.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
ROW 1 (= right side): Continue A.1, work A.2 a total of 5-6-6-7-7-8 times, A.6, turn = 39-45-45-51-51-57 stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work A.6, A.2 a total of 5-6-6-7-7-8 times, A.1, turn = 39-45-45-51-51-57 stitches.
Repeat ROWS 1 and 2 until the piece measures 34-36-36-38-38-40 cm, with the next row from the wrong side. Now decrease for the neckline.

NECKLINE:
Start from the wrong side and work as follows: A.6, A.2 1-2-2-3-3-4 times, A.8 (starting at the arrow in the diagram and working from left to right). Continue like this back and forth until A.8 is finished in height and the next row is from the right side = 19-25-25-31-31-37 stitches. Now work the shoulder.

SHOULDER:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work A.7, A.2 a total of 2-3-3-4-4-5 times, A.6, turn.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work A.6, A.2 a total of 2-3-3-4-4-5 times, A.7, turn.
Repeat ROWS 1 and 2 until the piece measures 42-44-46-48-50-52 cm. Cut and fasten the strand.

BACK PIECE:
Start from the right side, after the right front piece. Skip 2-2-2-2-4-4 repeats of A.2 and 1 repeat of A.3 (a total of 15-15-15-15-27-27 skipped stitches = armhole), work 1 slip stitch around the chain stitch in the next treble-crochet group then work as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work A.5 in the same treble-crochet group, A.2 a total of 11-13-13-15-15-17 times, A.6, turn = 75-87-87-99-99-111 stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work A.6, A.2 a total of 11-13-13-15-15-17 times, A.5, turn.
Repeat ROWS 1 and 2 until the piece measures 39-41-43-45-47-49 cm and the next row is from the right side. Now work the shoulder.

RIGHT BACK SHOULDER (when garment is worn):
ROW 1 (= right side): Work A.5, A.2 a total of 2-3-3-4-4-5 times, A.3, A.7 in first treble crochet from the next treble-crochet group, turn = 19-25-25-31-31-37 stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work A.7, A.3, A.2 a total of 2-3-3-4-4-5 times, A.5, turn.
ROW 3 (= right side): Work A.5, A.2 a total of 2-3-3-4-4-5 times, A.3, A.7, turn.
Repeat ROWS 2 and 3 until the piece measures 42-44-46-48-50-52 cm. Cut and fasten the strand.

LEFT BACK SHOULDER (when garment is worn):
Skip the rest of the treble-crochet group A.7 was worked in, skip 5 repeats of A.2 and 1 repeat of A.3, skip the first treble crochet and chain stitch in the next treble-crochet group (a total of 37 stitches skipped = back of neck), work 1 slip stitch in the last treble-crochet group, continue as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work A.7, A.2 a total of 2-3-3-4-4-5 times, A.6, turn = 19-25-25-31-31-37 stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work A.6, A.2 a total of 2-3-3-4-4-5 times, A.7, turn.
Repeat ROWS 1and 2 until the piece measures 42-44-46-48-50-52 cm. Cut and fasten the strand.

LEFT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
Start from the right side after the back piece. Skip 2-2-2-2-4-4 repeats of A.1B and 1 repeat of A.1C (a total of 15-15-15-15-27-27 skipped stitches = armhole), work 1 slip stitch around the chain stitch in the next treble-crochet group and continue as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work A.5, A.2 a total of 5-6-6-7-7-8 times, A.3, A.4, turn.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work A.4, A.3, A.2 a total of 5-6-6-7-7-8 times, A.5, turn.
Repeat ROWS 1 and 2 until the piece measures 34-36-36-38-38-40 cm, with the next row from the right side. Now decrease for the neckline.

NECKLINE:
Start from the right side and work as follows: A.5, A.2 2-3-3-4-4-5 times, A.9. Continue back and forth like this until A.9 is finished in height and the next row is from the right side = 19-25-25-31-31-37 stitches. Now work the shoulder.

SHOULDER:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work A.5, A.2 a total of 2-3-3-4-4-5 times, A.3, A.7, turn.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work A.7, A.3, A.2 a total of 2-3-3-4-4-5 times, A.5, turn.
Repeat ROWS 1 and 2 until the piece measures 42-44-46-48-50-52 cm. Cut and fasten the strand.

SLEEVES:
Work 70-76-82-82-88-94 chain stitches with hook size 3.5 mm and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch worked.
Work in the round as follows: 1 chain stitch (= 1 double crochet), 1 double crochet in each chain stitch, finish with1 slip stitch in the first double crochet = 70-76-82-82-88-94 double crochets.
Now work pattern as follows, read CROCHET INFORMATION: Work 3 chain stitches, A.2 11-12-13-13-14-15 times, A.3 and finish with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round, turn.
Continue like this in the round, alternately from the right and wrong side until the sleeve measures 51-49-50-48-46-44 cm, with the last round worked from the right side and, on the last round, working 1 treble crochet in the stitch before the 3 chain stitches at the beginning of the round, so there are 2 treble crochets (1 treble crochet + 3 chain stitches) mid-under sleeve, turn.
Now continue back and forth:
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Work A.7, A.3, A.2 a total of 11-12-13-13-14-15 times, work 1 treble crochet in the last stitch = 71-77-77-83-89-95 stitches, turn.
ROW 2 (= right side): Work A.7, A.2 a total of 11-12-13-13-14-15 times, A.3, A.7, turn.
ROW 3 (= wrong side): Work A.7, A.3, A.2 a total of 11-12-13-13-14-15 times, A.7, turn.
Repeat ROWS 2 and 3 back and forth until the sleeve measures 55-53-54-52-53-51 cm. Cut and fasten the strand.

ASSEMBLY:
Crochet the shoulder seams together as follows: 1 double crochet in the outermost stitch (through both layers), 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet around the chain-space on the front piece, 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet around the chain-space on the back piece, 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet around the chain stitch in the treble-crochet group on the front piece, 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet around the chain stitch in the treble-crochet group on the back piece, continue like this, crocheting alternately on the front and back piece until the shoulder seam is finished. Work the other shoulder seam in the same way.

Crochet the sleeve cap to the armhole in the same way (a to A – see sketch). Then crochet together the bottom of the armhole (b to B).

NECK:
Start from the wrong side and work an edge around the neckline as follows:
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Work 1 double crochet in each of the 3 treble crochets mid-front, * work 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around the first/next chain-space/row *, work from *-* along the neckline, finish with 3 chain stitches and 1 double crochet in each of the 3 treble crochets mid-front, turn.
ROW 2 (= right side): Work 3 chain stitches (replaces the first treble crochet), work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 2 double crochets, work 3 treble crochets around each chain-space, finish with 1 treble crochet in each of the last 3 double crochets. Cut and fasten the strand.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band – the top button is on the neck, the other 2 with 8-8-8-9-9-9 cm between each one.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 28.05.2024
The pattern is updated. Correction of the number of repeats of the diagram in size L on sleeve.

Diagram

symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 1 treble crochet in treble crochet below/1 treble crochet around chain stitch below
symbols = 1 slip stitch around chain stitch in middle of treble-crochet group, 3 chain stitches
symbols = this row applies to first row/round at bottom of body and sleeves and has already been worked – shows how to work the stitches in the next row/round
symbols = this row has already been worked - shows how to work the stitches in the next row
symbols = sleeve assembled: a to A and b to B
symbols = start here
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!
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Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Anne wrote:

Hello there, I’m stuck after the first neckline portion of the pattern. It does say you end up with 25 stitches, but A.8 is only 7 stitches wide.. I don’t understand where to continue for the shoulder part. Thanks in advance!

01.09.2024 - 20:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anne, you continue working as said before, ie from WS: A.6, then A.2 2 times then A.8 (from RS: A.8 A.2 2 times and A.6), when A.8 is done, there are 7 sts left in A.8 + 6 sts x 2 in A.2 + 6 sts in A.6 = 25 sts. just work now A.7 instead of A.8 towards neck, this means you will have now 3 repeats of A.2 between A.7 and A.6. . Happy crocheting!

02.09.2024 - 09:18

country flag Marije wrote:

Ik ben net begonnen met het haken en loop meteen vast bij A1. Wat wordt bedoeld met het eerste symbool waar drie streepjes boven elkaar staan?

28.07.2024 - 11:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marije,

Deze 3 streepjes zijn 3 lossen welke je als vervanging van 1 stokje haakt.

31.07.2024 - 09:49

country flag Wil Kerkmeer wrote:

Klaar! Wat een ontzettend leuk patroon! Lekker opschieten en geweldig om te maken!|

25.07.2024 - 16:17

country flag Wil Kerkmeer wrote:

Dit zou betekenen dat mt S ook te ruim berekend zou zijn. Moeilijk verhaal, zou het een optie kunnen zijn om xl te haken met haaknaald 3 ?

14.07.2024 - 13:49

country flag Wil Kerkmeer wrote:

Ik ben enthousiast begonnen met het haken van mt L en ik vind het wat aan de krappe kant. Uiteindelijk valt het me op in het patroon dat de maatgeving voor 95% hetzelfde is als voor mt M.?😳graag zsm jullie feedback. Vrgr

11.07.2024 - 09:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Wil,

Je hebt inderdaad gelijk dat maat L voor een groot deel overeenkomt met maat M. Ik denk dat dit komt door de afronding van de steken in het patroon. Als ik de maten naast vergelijkbare patronen leg, komen de maten wel overeen met maat L en lijkt het eerder zo dat maat M naar maat L getrokken is.

14.07.2024 - 12:00

country flag Angeline Poldervaart wrote:

Dank voor antwoord op mijn vraag over kop mouw. Begrijp ik het goed dat ik toer niet sluit na toevoegen stokje?

05.06.2024 - 20:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Angeline,

Dat klopt inderdaad, je sluit de toer niet meer vanaf dat punt. Daardoor is de naad midden onder de mouw een stukje open aan de bovenkant.

12.06.2024 - 16:57

country flag Laura wrote:

Are the shoulder and arm seams done with right or wrong sides together?

04.06.2024 - 01:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Laura, yes, you should crochet those pieces with their wrong sides together. Happy Crafting!

04.06.2024 - 02:53

country flag Angeline Poldervaart wrote:

Beste, ik kom er niet uit bij de mouw. Wanneer mouw 50 cm meet,met de laatste toer ...... tm zodat er 2 stokjes (1stokje + 3 lossen) midden onder de mouw zitten, keer het werk. Allerlei variaties uitgeprobeerd op deze instructie, maar krijg een rare uitstulping. Ik begrijp het niet.

02.06.2024 - 21:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Angeline,

Je hebt aan het begin van de toer 3 lossen gehaakt om het eerste stokje te vervangen. Aan het einde van diezelfde toer haak je een stokje in de steek waaruit de 3 lossen komen. Dan keer je het werk en haak je heen en weer. Er komt een soort inkeping die aan de panden genaaid wordt. Zie de tekening onderaan. (b bij de mouw en B bij de panden.).

03.06.2024 - 11:42

country flag Angeline wrote:

De eerste toer lijf, ik kom niet uit met de steken. Mis er 4 om toer af te kunnen haken. Herhaaldelijk geteld, mijn werk klopt. Kan het zijn dat hier een fout zit in patroon? Wat zou ik fout kunnen doen?

09.05.2024 - 13:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Angeline,

Ik heb het uitgerekend voor alle maten en je zou precies uit moeten komen. Je begint met 185-209-209-233-257-281 steken. A.1 aan het begin en A.3 en A.4 aan het einde zijn samen 11 steken in totaal. Dan houd je 174-198-198-222-246-270 steken over om A.2 (6 steken) over te kunnen haken, want dit is een meervoud van 6 steken.

09.05.2024 - 14:53

country flag Angeline Poldervaart wrote:

Ik heb patroon en garen vandaag binnen gekregen en lees dat er 9 instuructievideos zijn. Ik zie deze niet. Het leek mij eenvoudig te haken, maar begrijp begin al niet. Lossen opzetten, werk keren en aan verkeerde kant eersdte toer haken. Geen idee hoe dit te doen. Om die reden op zoek naar instructievideo.

07.05.2024 - 20:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Angeline,

Helemaal bovenaan de pagina (vlak onder de titel en omschrijving van het vestje) kun je op 'Video's' klikken om bij de video's te komen.

09.05.2024 - 09:44