DROPS Soft Tweed
DROPS Soft Tweed
50% Wool, 25% Alpaca, 25% Viscose
from 4.00 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Christmas Calendar
DROPS 225-4

#citycentralhat

DROPS Design: Pattern no st-004
Yarn group B + A
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SIZES:
S/M - M/L - L/XL
Fits head-size: 54/56 -56/58 - 58/60 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS SOFT TWEED from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
50-50-100 g colour 07, cobblestone
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
25-25-25 g colour 38, chalk

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: Length 40 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm.

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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You might also like...

DROPS Soft Tweed
DROPS Soft Tweed
50% Wool, 25% Alpaca, 25% Viscose
from 4.00 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 84 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 6) = 14. 
In this example decrease by knitting together each 13th and 14th stitch.
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START THE PIECE HERE:

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HAT – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, bottom up. Change to double pointed needles when necessary.

HAT:
Cast on 84-88-90 stitches with short circular needle size 4.5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands).
Work 4 rounds of stocking stitch. The next round is worked as follows: * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* to the end of the round. Then work stocking stitch to finished length.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 16-17-18 cm decrease 6 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP = 78-82-84 stitches.
When the piece measures 18-19-20 cm decrease 10 stitches evenly spaced. Repeat this decrease every 2 cm, 3 more times = 38-42-44 stitches. When the piece measures 26-27-28 cm, knit all stitches together 2 and 2, for 2 rounds = 9-10-11 stitches. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well.
The hat measures approx. 27-28-29 cm.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!
Have you finished this pattern?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern #citycentralhat or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 225-4

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Comments / Questions (10)

country flag MARGRET C wrote:

How can I get this pattern translated into English?

09.10.2024 - 18:21

country flag Corina Avram wrote:

Superb beanie! I knitted it with Lima and Kid Silk (the same colors as the pattern) and I love the result. Thank you for the beautiful pattern. Corina

20.03.2024 - 11:06

country flag Linda Gurr wrote:

I want to make this pattern using Drops Merino extra fine and Kids -silk, will this work? I made this pattern previously with the wool called for, soft tweed and kids-silk. It turned out very well. My daughter likes the style but wants a hat in navy. Cannot find soft tweed in navy... The other questions is how can I make it smaller, what number would be suitable to cast on lower than the called for 84 stitches. Just a bit smaller is all I need. Thank you. Linda Gurr

27.01.2024 - 00:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Gurr, you can replace here Soft Tweed with Merino Extra Fine as both yarns belong yarn group B, just use the yarn converter to get the new amount if needed. To get a smaller hat, you might have to adjust to the desired size as we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every single request, thanks for your comprehension. Happy knitting!

29.01.2024 - 11:33

country flag Brugere wrote:

Suite a ma dernière question ( 82 mailles et 10 diminutions ) ??? ça ne correspond pas ,,,,??? Pouvez vous vérifier merci cordialement .

14.11.2023 - 10:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Brugere, tricotez vos 82 mailles. ainsi en diminuant 10 mailles: *tricotez 6 mailles, tricotez 2 mailles ensemble à l'endroit*, répétez de *à* encore 10 fois, terminez par tricoter à l'endroit les 2 dernières mailles = il vous reste 72 mailles, et continuez ainsi tous les 2 cm avec 1 maille en moins avant chaque diminution: *5 m endroit, 2 m ens à l'endroit*, répétez de *à* et terminez par 2 m end (=62 m) puis *4 m end, 2 m ens à l'end* et terminez par 2 m end (= 52 m) puis *3 m end, 2 m ens à l'end* et terminez par 2 m end (= 42 m). Bon tricot!

14.11.2023 - 11:19

country flag Brugere wrote:

Bonsoir je reviens vers vous pour les 2eme diminution avec mes 82 mls et 10 diminution , j'ai repris votre leçons mais impossible de comprendre ( faut il que je commence par 4 mailles , 1diminution et le reste ??? ) besoins vraiment de votre aide merci de votre compréhension . cordialement

13.11.2023 - 18:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Brugere, tricotez vos 88 mailles ainsi: tricotez: *12 m end, 2 m ens à l'end, 13 m end, 2 m ens à l'end*, répétez encore 2 fois de *à* et terminez par 1 maille endroit - vous avez ainsi diminué 6 mailles, il reste 82 mailles. Bon tricot!

14.11.2023 - 10:13

country flag Brugere wrote:

Bonjour, merci pour votre réponse "mais pour moi celà ne m'aide pas " c'est pour ça que je vous demande de me décomposer le 1er rang de diminution SVP . MERCI CORDIALEMENT

13.11.2023 - 09:44

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Brugere, conformément à la leçon, divisez 88 par 6, vous obtenez 14.6, votre résultat est donc similaire à l'exemple 2 des diminutions dans la leçon (je vous invite à vous y reporter pour bien comprendre la technique); vous allez donc diminuer alternativement chaque 13ème et 14ème maille et chaque 14ème et 15ème maille, soit: (12 m end, 2 m ens à l'end, 13 m end, 2 m ens à l'end) x 3, il restera 1 m à la fin du tour, terminez par 1 m end. Bon tricot!

13.11.2023 - 16:09

country flag Brugere wrote:

Bonjours , je ne comprends pas les diminutions avec mes 88 mailles j'ai pas un nombre qui tombe rond .pouvez vous me dire tous les combien je doit diminuer ( me décomposer le1er rangs ) . j'ai regarder votre leçons de base mais pas comprise . merci pour votre aide cordialement

12.11.2023 - 16:16

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Brugere, cette leçon explique comment diminuer (ou augmenter) à intervalles réguliers, même quand le résultat ne tombe pas juste comme ici - cf Exemple 2 sous Répartir des diminutions. Bon tricot!

13.11.2023 - 08:19

country flag Linda Gurr wrote:

I made this hat and my granddaughter loved it as did her mom. I would like to send you a photo but not sure how to do this.

22.03.2023 - 21:49

country flag Francesca wrote:

Salve! Ho acquistato il filato baby merino della drops per realizzare il berretto City Central. Ho una circonferenza della testa di 54 cm, quante maglie devo montare e quante , quante maglie devo diminuire e come? Il mio campione ha 24 maglie in 10cm. Grazie infinite!!!

08.12.2021 - 12:02

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Francesca, Baby Merino appartiene al gruppo filati A: questo modello è realizzato con un filato del gruppo A e uno del gruppo B, per cui Baby Merino da solo è troppo sottile per realizzarlo. Buon lavoro!

08.12.2021 - 18:09

country flag Jule wrote:

Guten Tag, beziehen sich die angegebenen Höhen der Mütze auf die Höhe mit ein- oder ausgerolltem Rollrand? Muss ich den Rollrand zum Messen glattziehen?

27.09.2021 - 20:58

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Jule, die gesamte Höhe wird von der Anschlagskante gemessen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.09.2021 - 08:04