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  1. Návody zdarma
  2. Dámské
  3. Pulovry
  4. DROPS
  5. 221
  6. 29

Diamonds in the Sky by DROPS Design

Raglánový pulovr s ažurovým vzorem a širokými ¾ rukávy pletený shora dolů z příze DROPS Snow nebo DROPS Wish. Velikost S - XXXL.

Tagy: 3/4 rukáv, chunky pletení, krajkový vzor, kulatý výstřih, raglán, shora dolů, široké rukávy

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DROPS 221-29
DROPS Design: model č. ee-714
Skupina přízí E nebo C + C
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VELIKOST:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIÁL:
DROPS SNOW firmy Garnstudio (spadá do skupiny přízí E)
500-550-600-650-750-800 g, barva č. 88, křída
nebo:
DROPS WISH firmy Garnstudio (spadá do skupiny přízí E)
400-400-450-500-550-600 g, barva č. 02, bílá

ZKUŠEBNÍ VZOREK:
10 ok na šířku a 14 řad na výšku lícovým žerzejem = 10 x 10 cm.

JEHLICE:
DROPS KRUHOVÁ JEHLICE č.9, dlouhá 40 a 80 cm.
DROPS KRUHOVÁ JEHLICE č.8. dlouhá 40 a 80 cm – na lemy.
Uvedená síla jehlic je pouze orientační. Máte-li ve svém zkušebním vzorku více ok na 10 cm, použijte jehlice silnější. Pokud máte naopak méně ok na 10 cm, použijte jehlice slabší.

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Zkušební vzorek – Podívejte se, jak ho měřit a proč
Náhradní příze – Podívejte se, jak změnit přízi
Skupina přízí A až F – Neměňte návod, změňte přízi
Spotřeba příze při použití náhradní příze – Využijte náš převodník

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100% vlna 		od 43.00 Kč /50g
DROPS Snow uni colour DROPS Snow uni colour 43.00 Kč /50g
Ganella 		Objednat
DROPS Snow mix DROPS Snow mix 50.00 Kč /50g
Ganella 		Objednat
needles Jehlice a háčky Objednat
Přízi na tento model můžete mít už za 215Kč. Více zde.

Návod

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VYSVĚTLIVKY:

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VZOR:
Viz schémata A.1 až A.6. Zvolte si schéma pro požadovanou velikost.

TIP - PŘIDÁVÁNÍ:
Abychom vypočítali, v jakých rozestupech máme přidávat, vydělíme celkový počet ok na jehlici (tj. 46 ok) počtem ok, která potřebujeme přidat (např. 10), takže 46 : 10 = 4,6.
V tomto případě tedy 1x nahodíme střídavě za každým 4. a každým 5. okem. V následující kruhové řadě pleteme nahození za zadní nit, aby se v pletenině netvořily dírky.

RAGLÁNOVÉ ZKOSENÍ:
Pro vytvarování raglánového zkosení průramků přidáváme ve všech místech, kde se rukávy stýkají s trupem (= v jedné kruhové řadě přidáme celkem 8 ok). Přidáváme nahozením na obou stranách 2 ok, která tvoří „šev“ (mezi těmito 2 oky leží značka). V následující kruhové řadě pleteme nahození hladce běžným způsobem (nikoli za zadní nit!) – v pletenině vzniknou ozdobné dírky.
Nová oka pak zapracujeme do vzoru na předním a zadním dílu nebo je pleteme lícovým žerzejem (na rukávech).

TIP - UZAVÍRÁNÍ:
Abychom neměli uzavřený okraj moc stažený, můžeme na uzavírání ok použít silnější jehlice nebo za každým zhruba 4. okem 1x nahodíme – nahození hned uzavřeme jako běžné oko.

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POPIS PRÁCE:

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PULOVR – JAK BUDEME POSTUPOVAT:
Pleteme v kruhových řadách na kruhové jehlici shora dolů. Sedlo pak rozdělíme na rukávy a trup a díly dopleteme odděleně, v kruhových řadách shora dolů.

LEM PRŮKRČNÍKU:
Na krátkou kruhovou jehlici č.8 nahodíme přízí Snow nebo Wish 46-48-50-54-56-58 ok a upleteme 1 kruhovou řadu hladce. Pokračujeme pružným vzorem 1/1 (tj. střídáme 1 oko hladce, 1 obrace).
Ve výši 4 cm pleteme 1 kruhovou řadu hladce a SOUČASNĚ přidáme rovnoměrně 10-8-6-6-4-2 ok – viz TIP - PŘIDÁVÁNÍ = 56-56-56-60-60-60 ok. Upleteme 1 kruhovou řadu hladce.
Pak převedeme pleteninu na kruhovou jehlici č.9. Za 20.-20.-20.-21.-21.-21. oko vložíme značku (= přibližně střed předního dílu) – SEDLO NYNÍ MĚŘÍME OD TOHOTO MÍSTA!

SEDLO:
Nyní pleteme vzor a SOUČASNĚ vložíme do pleteniny 4 značky v těchto rozestupech: 1. značkou označíme začátek kruhové řady (= přechod mezi zadním dílem a pravým rukávem), 1 oko upleteme hladce, 1x nahodíme, 7 ok hladce, 1x nahodíme, 1 oko hladce, vložíme 2. značku (= přechod mezi pravým rukávem a předním dílem), 1 oko hladce, 1x nahodíme, 5-5-5-6-6-6 ok vzorem A.1, 8 ok vzorem A.2, 4-4-4-5-5-5 ok vzorem A.3, 1x nahodíme, 1 oko hladce, vložíme 3. značku (= přechod mezi předním dílem a levým rukávem), 1 oko hladce, 1x nahodíme, 7 ok hladce, 1x nahodíme, 1 oko hladce, vložíme 4. značku (= přechod mezi levým rukávem a zadním dílem), 1 oko hladce, 1x nahodíme, 5-5-5-6-6-6 ok vzorem A.1, 8 ok vzorem A.2, 4-4-4-5-5-5 ok vzorem A.3, 1x nahodíme, 1 oko hladce.
Právě jsme dokončili 1. přidávání pro RAGLÁNOVÉ ZKOSENÍ – viz výše. Pokračujeme v pletení vzoru a pro raglán přidáváme v každé 2. kruhové řadě, celkem 14-16-17-18-20-21x = 168-184-192-204-220-228 ok.
Po dokončení posledního přidávání měří díl asi 20-23-24-26-29-30 cm od značky na průkrčníku. Pleteme dál jako dosud, ale už nepřidáváme, a to až do výše 21-23-25-27-29-31 cm od značky (pleteme tolik ok vzoru, na kolik máme místo až k raglánu, dbáme přitom na to, aby byl počet nahození a ujímaní stejný a celkový počet ok tedy zůstal beze změny – zbylá oka, která nám do vzoru nevyjdou, pleteme lícovým žerzejem).
V následující kruhové řadě (pletené hladce) rozdělíme pleteninu na díly, takto – kruhová řada by teď měla začínat o 1 oko dříve:
prvních 39-43-45-47-51-53 ok odložíme na pomocnou jehlici (= rukáv), nahodíme 5-5-7-7-9-9 nových ok (= podpaží), 45-49-51-55-59-61 ok upleteme jako dříve (= přední díl), dalších 39-43-45-47-51-53 ok odložíme na pomocnou jehlici (= rukáv), nahodíme 5-5-7-7-9-9 nových ok (= podpaží) a upleteme posledních 45-49-51-55-59-61 ok (= zadní díl).
Trup a rukávy dokončíme odděleně. NYNÍ MĚŘÍME DÍL OD TOHOTO MÍSTA!

TRUP:
= 100-108-116-124-136-140 ok. Pleteme až po prostřední oko nahozené v podpaží. Kruhová řada nyní začíná zde.
Pokračujeme v pletení vzoru, navazujeme na rozvržení, které jsme začali na sedle – dbáme na to, abychom pokračovali správnou řadou vzoru a vzor tak plynule pokračoval.
Pleteme vzorem a na bocích lícovým žerzejem, takto:
*1-3-5-3-6-7 oka hladce, 9 ok vzorem A.4 (zvolte si schéma pro požadovanou velikost), 24 ok vzorem A.6 (zvolte si schéma pro požadovanou velikost), pak upleteme prvních 8-8-8-16-16-16 ok vzoru A.6, 8 ok vzorem A.5 (zvolte si schéma pro požadovanou velikost) a 0-2-4-2-5-6 ok hladce*, *-* ještě 1x zopakujeme.
Ve výši 24 cm pleteme 1 kruhovou řadu hladce a SOUČASNĚ přidáme rovnoměrně 10-10-12-12-14-14 ok = 110-118-128-136-150-154 ok. Pak pleteninu převedeme na kruhovou jehlici č. 8 a pleteme lem pružným vzorem 1/1 (tj. střídáme 1 oko hladce, 1 obrace). Když je lem vysoký 4 cm, všechna oka volně dle vzoru uzavřeme.
Pulovr měří asi 54-56-58-60-52-64 cm (od ramene).

RUKÁV:
Odložených 39-43-45-47-51-53 ok jednoho rukávu převedeme z pomocné jehlice zpět na krátkou kruhovou jehlici č.9 a navíc k nim nabereme po 1 oku z každého z 5-5-7-7-9-9 nově nahozených ok v podpaží = 44-48-52-54-60-62 ok. Pleteme v kruhových řadách lícovým žerzejem. Ve výši 20-18-17-15-13-12 cm přidáme rovnoměrně 4-4-4-4-6-6 oka = 48-52-56-58-70-68 ok. Pak pleteninu převedeme na kruhovou jehlici č. 8 a pleteme lem pružným vzorem 1/1 (tj. střídáme 1 oko hladce, 1 obrace). Když je lem vysoký 4 cm, všechna oka volně dle vzoru uzavřeme.
Rukáv měří asi 24-22-21-19-17-16 cm (od podpaží).
Stejným způsobem upleteme i druhý rukáv.

Schéma

symbols = lícový žerzej (líc hladce, rub obrace)
symbols = 1x nahodíme mezi 2 oky, v následující kruhové řadě pleteme nahození hladce - vznikne dírka
symbols = 2 oka spleteme hladce
symbols = 1 oko sejmeme hladce, 1 upleteme hladce a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme
symbols = 1 oko sejmeme hladce, 2 oka spleteme hladce a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme
symbols = pokud hustota úpletu odpovídá zkušebnímu vzorku, končí sedlo u šipky pro požadovanou velikost
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Potřebujete poradit s tímto návodem?

Děkujeme, že jste si vybrali návod DROPS Design. Zakládáme si na tom, že dáváme k dispozici návody ověřené a snadno srozumitelné. Všechny návody jsou přeložené z norského originálu a tak si můžete kdykoli srovnat rozměry a počty s původním návodem (DROPS 221-29) .

Máte s návodem potíže? Níže najdete seznam odkazů, které vám pomohou dokončit vaše dílo co nejdříve - nebo se třeba přiučit něco nového.

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Máte s návodem potíže? Níže najdete seznam odkazů, které vám pomohou dokončit vaše dílo co nejdříve - nebo se třeba přiučit něco nového.

Každý náš návod je doprovázen speciálními video-ukázkami, které vás navedou.

Tyto podrobné video-návody vás povedou "krok za krokem":

Máme takopodrobné rozpisy různých technik a postupů krok za krokem - najdete je zde.

A velmi užitečný slovníček!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

nahoru

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

nahoru

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

nahoru

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

nahoru

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

nahoru

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Komentáře / Otázky (27)

country flag Mary wrote:

But that’s precisely the problem! If I start the third line A4 from the underarm (the first stitch of the new round is basically the third stitch from the underarm) I get the mismatch because the triangle will be stitched earlier: I can’t understand where I am going wrong

09.04.2023 - 14:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mary, you need to adjust the stitches before starting the triangle. In this case, you need to simply knit stitches (not just the amount indicated in the pattern) so that the triangle won't be mismatched. The pattern under the arm may get slightly mismatched initially but that isn't important, since it will later on match correctly. Happy knitting!

10.04.2023 kl. 13:34

country flag Mary wrote:

Yes, I can see that the pattern is the same. But if I follow the instructions from A4 third line, I should start the "triangle" after 3 stitches of the body, while according to the stitches I have after the line with the arrow, A1, I should start the triangle after 5 stitches but this means that it will be "anticipated" hence the mismatch. Does it mean that I have not divided the garment accordingly? Many thanks and Happy Easter!

09.04.2023 - 11:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mary, take into account that you should have adjusted the start of the round in the body; you adjust so that the beginning of the round is in the middle stitch cast on under the sleeve. This should help adjust the pattern so that the triangle in A.4 won't get mismatched with the pattern in the yoke in A.1. Happy knitting!

09.04.2023 kl. 13:30

country flag Mary wrote:

Thanks! But I am still confused: the instructions say that the yoke is finished when I have 168 stitches (S size). If I had not knit the last row (the one with the arrow), I would not have got 168 stitches. In any case, once I have knit the row with the arrow, if I then start A4 from the third line I still get a mismatch in the pattern and I do not know where I get it wrong. Well, I know that I do something wrong while shifting from the yoke to the body but I can't figure out what.

07.04.2023 - 10:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mary, after having worked the row with the arrow, you should have knitted round, where you separated the stitches for each part of the garment. Then, you should start the body with the third row of A.4. There shouldn't be a mismatch there. You can check that the third row of A.4 is exactly like the third row in A.1 after the row with the arrow, so they should be matching. Hope this helps!

08.04.2023 kl. 20:58

country flag Mary wrote:

Thanks! But I am still confused: the instructions say that the yoke is finished when I have 168 stitches (S size). If I had not knit the last row (the one with the arrow), I would not have got 168 stitches. In any case, once I have knit the row with the arrow, if I then start A4 from the third line I still get a mismatch in the pattern and I do not know where I get it wrong. Well, I know that I do something wrong while shifting from the yoke to the body but I can't figure out what.

07.04.2023 - 10:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mary, after having worked the row with the arrow, you should have knitted round, where you separated the stitches for each part of the garment. Then, you should start the body with the third row of A.4. There shouldn't be a mismatch there. You can check that the third row of A.4 is exactly like the third row in A.1 after the row with the arrow, so they should be matching. Hope this helps!

08.04.2023 kl. 20:59

country flag Mary wrote:

Sorry, I am still unclear: I have finished the yoke knitting the A1-A3-A5 line with the arrow. Then I divided the work and I went for a knitted round. Now which line should I knit first and from which diagram?

05.04.2023 - 09:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mary, the arrows in the chart mean that, if the gauge is correct, you should finish the raglan/yoke when you reach the arrow for your size (before working it). If you have worked this row, then you will need to start the new part by working the third row of the new chart (A.4). Happy knitting!

06.04.2023 kl. 23:29

country flag Mary wrote:

Hi! "Continue the pattern from yoke on body – making sure to continue with the correct row in the diagram after the yoke. " Does this mean that if I finish A1 (S size) with the line with the arrow, the next line for the body in A4 is in fact the thirs one of the diagram?

04.04.2023 - 08:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Mary, Yes, if you finished the diagram before separating for the body and sleeves, you continue with the first row in the diagram. Happy Easter!

05.04.2023 kl. 07:01

country flag Mary wrote:

"Knit as far as the middle stitch cast on under the sleeve. The round now starts here." Does it mean that the round starts after the second or after the third stitch under the sleeve? Many thanks!

08.03.2023 - 16:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mary, yes correct: work the first 2 of the 5 stitches cast on under 1st sleeve, the rounds will now start here, before the middle of the new stitches. Happy knitting!

08.03.2023 kl. 16:08

country flag Mary wrote:

Following from your last answer: "...you will start the next round 1 stitch eariler. So, you need to not work the last stitch of the previous round". I interpret this as moving the stitch marker one stitch behind and working that stitch as the first one of the next round rather than the last one of the previous round. Is this correct? So it is basically just a matter of moving the stitch marker?

07.03.2023 - 12:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mary, you will now work the dividing round, this means you don't need the markers anymore, you start working the dividing round when the last stitch on previous round remain on left needle, slip the next 39 sts (starting with the last stitch previous round + the first 38 sts next round). Happy knitting!

07.03.2023 kl. 14:37

country flag Mary wrote:

Hi, I have just finished all the increases on the raglan and I have 168 stitches (S size). I'll go now go for a knitted round but what does it mean " adjust so the round now starts 1 stitch earlier"? Plus, the 39 stitches I habe to put aside, correspond to the stiches that are within the first and the second marker?

04.03.2023 - 10:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mary, after finishing the increases and reaching the indicated length (21cm from the marker), you will start the next round 1 stitch eariler. So, you need to not work the last stitch of the previous round. On the other hand, the first marker was inserted in the transition between the back and the sleeve and the second marker between the sleeve and the front. Since you have to put aside the stitches which correspond to the sleeve, these stitches are all in between the first and 2nd marker. Happy knitting!

05.03.2023 kl. 20:45

country flag Mary wrote:

I am sorry, I have tried many times to work this without success. Can you please just tell me what I should do between the 1st and the 2nd marker in the second raglan? Maybe in this way, I can understand the logic. But if you do not specify the bit between these 2 markers, I am lost. Many thanks in advance!

11.02.2023 - 10:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mary, Work as follows: marker 1, k1 (=raglan line), 1YO, k7 (= sleeve), 1 YO, k1, 2nd marker, k1 (=raglan line), 1 YO, A.1, A.2, A.3 (for the front), 1 YO, k1, 3rd marker, k1 (= raglan line), e.t.c. Happy knitting!

13.02.2023 kl. 00:02

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