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Diamonds in the Sky |
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DROPS Snow või DROPS Wish lõngast ülevalt alla kootud pitsmustriga kolmveerand laiade raglaan varrukatega džemper suurustele S kuni XXXL
DROPS 221-29 |
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NÕUANDED: ------------------------------------------------------- MUSTER: Vaata skeeme A.1 kuni A.6. Vaata suurusele vastavat skeemi. KASVATAMISE NIPP (ühtlaste vahedega): Arvutamaks, kui tihti kasvatada ühtlaste vahedega, loe silmuste arv real (näiteks 46 silmust) ning jaga kasvatuste arvuga (näiteks 10) = 4,6. Selles näites kasvata, tehes õhksilmuse kordamööda umbes pärast iga 4. või 5. silmust. Järgmisel real koo õhksilmus keerdsilmusena, et ei tekiks auku. RAGLAAN: Kasvata raglaani jaoks, tehes 1 õhksilmuse mõlemal pool 2 silmust (silmusemärkija on nende 2 silmuste vahel), igal kehaosa ja varrukate ülemineku kohal järgmiselt (kokku 8 silmust kasvatatud). Kasvata 1 silmus, võttes vardale õhksilmuse, järgmisel ringil koo õhksilmused läbi, et jääks augud. Koo uued silmused parempidises koes varrukatel ja mustriga esi-ja seljaosal. MAHAKUDUMISE NIPP: Et mahakudumise serv jääks veniv, kasuta number suuremaid vardaid. Kui on ikka liiga pingul, tee 1 õhksilmus umbes pärast iga 4. silmust ja koo see maha nagu tavaline silmus. ------------------------------------------------------- ALUSTA SIIT: ------------------------------------------------------- DŽEMPER - KOKKUVÕTE: Kaelus ja passe kootakse ringselt ringvarrastega ülevalt alla, alustades seljaosa keskelt. Passe jagatakse kehaosaks ja varrukateks, ning kootakse ringselt ringvarrastega ülevalt alla. KAELUS: Loo 46-48-50-54-56-58 silmust 8 mm ringvarrastele Snow või Wish lõngaga. koo 1 ring parempidi. Koo ringselt soonikut 1 parempidi/1 pahempidi 4 cm. Nüüd koo 1 ring parempidi, samal ajal kasvata 10-8-6-6-4-2 silmust ühtlaste vahedega – loe KASVATAMISE NIPPI = 56-56-56-60-60-60 silmust. koo 1 ring parempidi. Võta 9 mm ringvardad. Paigalda silmusemärkija pärast 20-20-20-21-21-21 silmust (= umbes esiosa keskkoht) - EDASPIDI MÕÕDA SIIT! PASSE: Nüüd koo mustrit ja paigalda 4 silmusemärkijat raglaani jaoks järgmiselt: paigalda 1 silmusemärkija ringi algusesse (= seljaosa ja varruka ülemineku koht), koo 1 parempidi, 1 õhksilmus, koo 7 parempidi, 1 õhksilmus, koo 1 parempidi, paigalda 1 silmusemärkija (= varruka ja esiosa ülemineku koht), koo 1 parempidi, 1 õhksilmus, koo skeemi A.1 järgmisel 5-5-5-6-6-6 silmusel, skeemi A.2 järgmisel 8 silmusel, skeemi A.3 järgmisel 4-4-4-5-5-5 silmusel, 1 õhksilmus, koo 1 parempidi, paigalda 1 silmusemärkija (= esiosa ja varruka ülemineku koht), koo 1 parempidi, 1 õhksilmus, koo 7 parempidi, 1 õhksilmus, koo 1 parempidi, paigalda 1 silmusemärkija (= varruka ja seljaosa ülemineku koht), koo 1 parempidi, 1 õhksilmus, koo skeemi A.1 järgmisel 5-5-5-6-6-6 silmust, skeemi A.2 järgmisel 8 silmusel, skeemi A.3 järgmisel 4-4-4-5-5-5 silmusel, 1 õhksilmus, koo 1 parempidi. JÄLGI KOETIHEDUST! Esimene RAGLAANIKASVATUS on nüüd tehtud. Jätka ringselt niimoodi mustriga ja kasvata raglaani jaoks igal teisel ringil kokku 14-16-17-18-20-21 korda = 168-184-192-204-220-228 silmust. Pärast viimast kasvatust on töö pikkus on umbes 20-23-24-26-29-30 cm silmusemärkijast kaelusel. Jätka kudumist ilma kasvatusteta, kuni töö pikkus on 21-23-25-27-29-31 cm silmusemärkijast (koo esi- ja seljaosal raglaani kõrval nii palju silmuseid mustrisse, kui mahub, aga jälgi, et õhksilmuseid ja kahandusi oleks võrdselt, et silmuste arv jääks samaks – koo ülejäänud silmused parempidises koes). Järgmisel ringil (parempidi) - ring algab 1 silmus varem, koo järgmiselt: tõsta esimesed 39-43-45-47-51-53 silmust abilõngale varruka jaoks, loo 5-5-7-7-9-9 uut silmust (= külg), koo järgmised 45-49-51-55-59-61 silmust nagu enne (= esiosa), tõsta järgmised 39-43-45-47-51-53 silmust abilõngale varruka jaoks, loo 5-5-7-7-9-9 uut silmust (= külg), koo viimased 45-49-51-55-59-61 silmust nagu enne (= seljaosa). Jätka kehaosa ja varrukaid eraldi. EDASI MÕÕDA SIIT! KEHAOSA: = 100-108-116-124-136-140 silmust. Koo kuni keskmise silmuseni küljel, ring algab nüüd siit. Koo mustrit kehaosal - jätka õige reaga. Koo mustrit ja parempidises koes külgedel järgmiselt: * koo 1-3-5-3-6-7 silmust parempidi, skeemi A.4 järgmised 9 silmust (vali suurusele vastav skeem), koo skeemi A.6 järgmisel 24 silmusel (vali suurusele vastav skeem), koo esimesed 8-8-8-16-16-16 silmust skeemil A.6, koo skeemi A.5 järgmisel 8 silmusel (vali suurusele vastav skeem), koo 0-2-4-2-5-6 silmust parempidi *, korda * kuni * veel 1 kord ringil. Kui töö pikkus on 24 cm, kasvata järgmisel ringil 10-10-12-12-14-14 silmust ühtlaste vahedega = 110-118-128-136-150-154 silmust. Nüüd võta 8 mm ringvardad ja koo soonikut 1 parempidi/1 pahempidi 4 cm. Koo silmused maha, parempidi silmused parempidi ja pahempidi silmused pahempidi. Kampsuni pikkus on umbes 54-56-58-60-52-64 cm õlast alla. VARRUKAD: Tõsta 39-43-45-47-51-53 silmust abilõngalt ühel küljel 9 mm suka-/ringvarrastele ja korja 1 silmus igast 5-5-7-7-9-9 silmusest küljel = 44-48-52-54-60-62 silmust on ringil. Koo ringselt parempidises koes. Kui varruka pikkus on 20-18-17-15-13-12 cm, kasvata 4-4-4-4-6-6 silmust ühtlaste vahedega = 48-52-56-58-70-68 silmust. Võta 8 mm ringvardad. Siis koo soonikut 1 parempidi/1 pahempidi 4 cm. Koo silmused maha, parempidi silmused parempidi ja pahempidi silmused pahempidi. Varruka pikkus on umbes 24-22-21-19-17-16 cm jagamise kohast. Tee teine varrukas samamoodi. |
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Oled teinud selle või mõne meie teise disaini? Lisa oma piltidele sotsiaalmeedias silt #dropsdesign , et me näeksime neid pilte. Vajad abi selle mustriga?Garnstudio.com kodulehel on õppevideot, küsimuste/vastuste osa ja muudki. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. Kõik õigused kaitstud. See dokument, ning selle alajaotused on kaitsud autoriõigustega. Loe rohkem, mida meie mustritega võib teha, iga mustrilehe alt meie kodulehel. |
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Tegeledes üle 40 aasta kudumise ja heegeldamise disainidega, pakub DROPS Design ühte suurimat tasuta mustrite kollektsiooni internetis - tõlgituna 17 keelde. Tänaseks on meil 304 kataloogi ja 11422 mustrit - millest 8498 on tõlgitud Eesti keelde.
Me anname endast parima, et tuua teieni kõike mida kudumine ja heegeldamine võib pakkuda - inspiratsiooni, nõuandeid ning ka kvaliteetseid lõngu parima hinnaga! Soovid kasutada mustreid muukski, kui ainult oma tarbeks? Loe infot meie Copyright osas iga lehekülje all. Rõõmsat loomist!
Kommentaarid / Küsimused (27)
But that’s precisely the problem! If I start the third line A4 from the underarm (the first stitch of the new round is basically the third stitch from the underarm) I get the mismatch because the triangle will be stitched earlier: I can’t understand where I am going wrong
09.04.2023 - 14:12DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mary, you need to adjust the stitches before starting the triangle. In this case, you need to simply knit stitches (not just the amount indicated in the pattern) so that the triangle won't be mismatched. The pattern under the arm may get slightly mismatched initially but that isn't important, since it will later on match correctly. Happy knitting!
10.04.2023 - 13:34Yes, I can see that the pattern is the same. But if I follow the instructions from A4 third line, I should start the "triangle" after 3 stitches of the body, while according to the stitches I have after the line with the arrow, A1, I should start the triangle after 5 stitches but this means that it will be "anticipated" hence the mismatch. Does it mean that I have not divided the garment accordingly? Many thanks and Happy Easter!
09.04.2023 - 11:09DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mary, take into account that you should have adjusted the start of the round in the body; you adjust so that the beginning of the round is in the middle stitch cast on under the sleeve. This should help adjust the pattern so that the triangle in A.4 won't get mismatched with the pattern in the yoke in A.1. Happy knitting!
09.04.2023 - 13:30Thanks! But I am still confused: the instructions say that the yoke is finished when I have 168 stitches (S size). If I had not knit the last row (the one with the arrow), I would not have got 168 stitches. In any case, once I have knit the row with the arrow, if I then start A4 from the third line I still get a mismatch in the pattern and I do not know where I get it wrong. Well, I know that I do something wrong while shifting from the yoke to the body but I can't figure out what.
07.04.2023 - 10:25DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mary, after having worked the row with the arrow, you should have knitted round, where you separated the stitches for each part of the garment. Then, you should start the body with the third row of A.4. There shouldn't be a mismatch there. You can check that the third row of A.4 is exactly like the third row in A.1 after the row with the arrow, so they should be matching. Hope this helps!
08.04.2023 - 20:58Thanks! But I am still confused: the instructions say that the yoke is finished when I have 168 stitches (S size). If I had not knit the last row (the one with the arrow), I would not have got 168 stitches. In any case, once I have knit the row with the arrow, if I then start A4 from the third line I still get a mismatch in the pattern and I do not know where I get it wrong. Well, I know that I do something wrong while shifting from the yoke to the body but I can't figure out what.
07.04.2023 - 10:20DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mary, after having worked the row with the arrow, you should have knitted round, where you separated the stitches for each part of the garment. Then, you should start the body with the third row of A.4. There shouldn't be a mismatch there. You can check that the third row of A.4 is exactly like the third row in A.1 after the row with the arrow, so they should be matching. Hope this helps!
08.04.2023 - 20:59Sorry, I am still unclear: I have finished the yoke knitting the A1-A3-A5 line with the arrow. Then I divided the work and I went for a knitted round. Now which line should I knit first and from which diagram?
05.04.2023 - 09:04DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mary, the arrows in the chart mean that, if the gauge is correct, you should finish the raglan/yoke when you reach the arrow for your size (before working it). If you have worked this row, then you will need to start the new part by working the third row of the new chart (A.4). Happy knitting!
06.04.2023 - 23:29Hi! "Continue the pattern from yoke on body – making sure to continue with the correct row in the diagram after the yoke. " Does this mean that if I finish A1 (S size) with the line with the arrow, the next line for the body in A4 is in fact the thirs one of the diagram?
04.04.2023 - 08:59DROPS Design answered:
Hi Mary, Yes, if you finished the diagram before separating for the body and sleeves, you continue with the first row in the diagram. Happy Easter!
05.04.2023 - 07:01"Knit as far as the middle stitch cast on under the sleeve. The round now starts here." Does it mean that the round starts after the second or after the third stitch under the sleeve? Many thanks!
08.03.2023 - 16:03DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mary, yes correct: work the first 2 of the 5 stitches cast on under 1st sleeve, the rounds will now start here, before the middle of the new stitches. Happy knitting!
08.03.2023 - 16:08Following from your last answer: "...you will start the next round 1 stitch eariler. So, you need to not work the last stitch of the previous round". I interpret this as moving the stitch marker one stitch behind and working that stitch as the first one of the next round rather than the last one of the previous round. Is this correct? So it is basically just a matter of moving the stitch marker?
07.03.2023 - 12:16DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mary, you will now work the dividing round, this means you don't need the markers anymore, you start working the dividing round when the last stitch on previous round remain on left needle, slip the next 39 sts (starting with the last stitch previous round + the first 38 sts next round). Happy knitting!
07.03.2023 - 14:37Hi, I have just finished all the increases on the raglan and I have 168 stitches (S size). I'll go now go for a knitted round but what does it mean " adjust so the round now starts 1 stitch earlier"? Plus, the 39 stitches I habe to put aside, correspond to the stiches that are within the first and the second marker?
04.03.2023 - 10:25DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mary, after finishing the increases and reaching the indicated length (21cm from the marker), you will start the next round 1 stitch eariler. So, you need to not work the last stitch of the previous round. On the other hand, the first marker was inserted in the transition between the back and the sleeve and the second marker between the sleeve and the front. Since you have to put aside the stitches which correspond to the sleeve, these stitches are all in between the first and 2nd marker. Happy knitting!
05.03.2023 - 20:45I am sorry, I have tried many times to work this without success. Can you please just tell me what I should do between the 1st and the 2nd marker in the second raglan? Maybe in this way, I can understand the logic. But if you do not specify the bit between these 2 markers, I am lost. Many thanks in advance!
11.02.2023 - 10:45DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mary, Work as follows: marker 1, k1 (=raglan line), 1YO, k7 (= sleeve), 1 YO, k1, 2nd marker, k1 (=raglan line), 1 YO, A.1, A.2, A.3 (for the front), 1 YO, k1, 3rd marker, k1 (= raglan line), e.t.c. Happy knitting!
13.02.2023 - 00:02