Summer Mesh by DROPS Design

DROPS Sweater with lace pattern

Size: Small (Medium - Large)

Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
450 (500-550) g. col. 26, beige

DROPS 7 mm needles, or size needed to obtain correct tension.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton
from 0.95 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.05 £ /50g
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 0.95 £ /50g
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Tension: 14 sts x 17 rows in pattern stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

Garter st, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.

Pattern: See chart (1 chart = 1 repeat). The pattern is shown from the right side.

The pattern stitch is the following 4 rows, repeated throughout:
Row 1 (right side): * K 2 tog, yarn over *
Row 2 (wrong side): P all sts
Row 3 (right side): * yarn over, K 2 tog *
Row 4 (wrong side): P all sts

Knitting tip: Because of the pattern stitch, it is easy to make a mistake in the number of stitches bound off, increased or decreased. Be sure you have the correct number of sts in each row.

FRONT
Cast on 68 (74-78) sts (divisible by 2 sts + 1 edge st at each side knit in garter st throughout) and knit 4 rows garter st. Change to Pattern stitch.
When the work measures 8.5 (7.5-6.5) cm and at 16 (14-12) cm interrupt the Pattern with 4 rows garter st before continuing with Pattern - the first row of garter st is knit from the right side.
When the work measures 24 (26-27) cm bind off at each side for armholes every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 (2-3) times, 1 st 2 (3-3) times = 50 (54-54) sts.
At the same time as the work measures 32 cm again interrupt the Pattern with 4 rows garter st before continuing with Pattern - the first row of garter st is knit from the right side.
When the work measures 35 (37-39) cm knit garter st over the center 16 (18-18) sts for the next 4 rows.
On the next row, bind off the center 12 (14-14) sts for the neck. Continue to knit the 2 sts at the neck edge in garter st and dec 1 st inside these 2 edge sts for the neck every other row 4 times. (Make the decreases as follows: Right side: K 2 tog - Left side: slip 1, K 1, psso.)
Cat off when the work measures 46 (48-50) cm.

BACK
Cast on and knit as on the front. When the work measures 42 (44-46) cm knit garter st over the center 20 (22-22) sts for 4 rows. On the next row, bind off the center 16 (18-18) sts for the neck. Keeping the 2 edge sts at each neck edge in garter st, dec 1 st (inside the edge sts as on the front) every row 2 times. Cast off when the work measures 46 (48-50) cm.

SLEEVES
Cast on 36 (38-38) sts and knit 4 rows garter st. Change to pattern stitch. When the work measures 8.5 (7.5-6.5) cm and 16 (14-12) cm interrupt the pattern with 4 rows garter st - the first row of garter st is knit from the right side; continue the Pattern after the garter st rows.
At the same time, when the work measures 16 (14-12) cm inc 1 st at each side 12 (11-12) times:
Size S: alternately every 3rd and 4th row
Size M: alternately every 4th and 5th row
Size L: every 4th row
= 60 (60-62) sts. The increased sts are not knit into the Pattern until there are 2 increased sts at each side.
When the work measures 46 (46-45) cm cast off for sleeve caps at each side every other row: 3 sts 2 times, 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 2 (2-4) times, 2 sts 2 times, 3 sts 3 times, cast off all sts. The work measures approx. 58 (58-59) cm.

Assembly: Sew the shoulder seams. Sew the sleeve seams. Sew side seams. Sew in the sleeves.

Diagram

symbols = K (seen from the right side)
symbols = K 2 tog, yarn over
symbols = yarn over, sl 1, K 1, psso
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 61-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (24)

country flag Eva wrote:

Trying to print a recipe in Norwegian. Looks like it's something wrong with the link??

31.05.2022 - 11:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Eva, the link works fine from our end. Sometimes the webpage is a bit slower due to higher Internet traffic. You can try to click here if it helps: https://www.garnstudio.com/includes/pattern-print.php?id=874&cid=1. Happy knitting!

31.05.2022 kl. 16:54

country flag Christel wrote:

1 nkd 1 omsl 1 st r vd nld 1 r haal de afgelopen. steek over. Dan nkd links Dan 2 st recht samen Dan nkd links. Klopt dit zo?

14.03.2022 - 13:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Christel,

Je breit 1 naad met * 2 steken recht samen breien, 1 omslag* dit herhaal je steeds. Dan een naald averecht op de verkeerde kant. Dan aan de goede kant * 1 omslag, 1 steek recht afhalen, 1 recht, de afgehaalde steek overhalen* dit herhaal je steeds. Tot slot weer 1 naald averecht aan de verkeerde kant.

18.03.2022 kl. 08:26

country flag Annelies Rennert wrote:

Hallöchen, bin jetzt beim Rückenteil. Wieso werden am Hals 22 MA als Rippe gestrickt und dann 16 MA abgekettet und nicht wie beim Vorderteil 16MA Rippe und 12 MA abgekettet? Die Schulterbreite ist doch dann am Ende jeweils 2 MA weniger, schmaler. MFG. ANNELIES RENNERT

08.03.2022 - 13:11

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Rennert, beim Rückenteil stricken Sie 22 M krausrippen, dann ketten Sie 18 M = es sind 2 Maschen in Krausrippen beidseitig übrig - beim Vorderteil stricken Sie 18 M krausrippen und ketten die mittleren 14 ab = es sind 2 Maschen in Krausrippen beidseitig übrig. So haben Sie 2 Maschen kraus rechts gegen Hals beim Vorder- sowie beim Rückenteil. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

08.03.2022 kl. 22:01

country flag Annelies Rennert wrote:

Hallöchen , wieder eine Frage. Müssen denn die Seiten zur Schulter nicht getrennt gestrickt werden? Es steht nach 46cm abketten. Ich verstehe es nicht so wie ich es kenne. Nach dem abnehmen in der Mitte für den Hals gehen doch die Seiten getrennt, oder wie soll es gehen? Mfg. Annelies Rennert

06.03.2022 - 16:29

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Rennert, also doch schon, jede Schulter stricken Sie separat nachdem Sie die Maschen für den Halsausschnitt abgekettet haben (= nach 2 Krausrippen über die mittleren 12 M nach 35 cm beim Vorderteil und nach 2 Krausrippen über die mittleren 16 M nach 42 cm beim Rückenteil). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

07.03.2022 kl. 09:12

country flag Annelies Rennert wrote:

Hallöchen, was heisst bei der strickschrift re von der Vorderseite. Muss ich nach dem 2. Diagramm eine Reihe rechts stricken oder wie verstehe ich das. Das wäre dann doch auf der Rückseite links.

04.03.2022 - 13:46

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Rennert, ja genau, 2. + 4. Reihe sind Rückreihen und die stricken Sie links (so sehen Sie wie 1 rechte Masche von der Vorderseite aus). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

04.03.2022 kl. 16:07

country flag Annelies Rennert wrote:

Hallöchen, ich finde die Wolle wie angegeben passt nicht zu dem Strickmuster. Sieht viel zu grob aus. Das Foto ist edler. Ausserdem trage grösse 42/44 und muß sagen das die Maschenangabe für Smile viel zu weit wird. Sieht aus wie ein Sack. Jetzt habe ich die Wolle und bleibe drauf sitzen weil es nicht schön aussieht. MFG. ANNELIES RENNERT

04.03.2022 - 12:58

country flag Annelies Rennert wrote:

Hallöchen, ich stricke diesen Pulli. Wie muss denn die Rückseiten gestrickt werden? Mfg. Annelies Rennert

03.03.2022 - 13:33

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Rennert, meinen Sie die Rückreihen im Muster? Die werden auch im Diagram gezeigt, dh alle Rück-Reihen im Muster werden links gestrickt (und jede Hin-Reihe mit Lochmuster). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

03.03.2022 kl. 15:23

country flag Anne wrote:

I’m having trouble with the neck cast off. The continuation of the front neckline as you decrease dosnt look very neat. Is someone able to explain . You have to keep neck edge in garter stitch and make a decrease inside these 2 garter stitches. So on right side k1, k2tog for example? Would that be correct?

26.06.2021 - 18:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anne, you are correct, you after the garter stitch K2tog on one side and SSK for the other (before the garter stitches) to make it symetric. Happy Stitching!

27.06.2021 kl. 14:16

country flag Helene Dufresne wrote:

Quand nous rabattons pour emmanchures doit on continuer 2m +1m lis au point mousse et comment rabattre.

03.11.2020 - 14:49

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Dufresne, rabattez pour les emmanchures au début de chaque rang de chaque côté: 1 x 3 m, 2-2-3 x 2 m, 2-3-3 fois 1 m - continuez avec 1 m lisière au point mousse de chaque côté et tricotez le point fantaisie comme avant - sur les rangs ajourés, veillez à aligner les mailles pour que les jours soient alignés comme avant, tricoter en jersey les mailles qui ne peuvent plus se tricoter avec (1 dim, 1 jeté/1 jeté/1 dim) et continuez ensuite comme avant avec 1 m point mousse de chaque côté. Bon tricot!

03.11.2020 kl. 15:50

country flag Ulrike wrote:

Heißt bei der Strickschrift zu summer mesh rechts von vorne, dass die Maschen nach der Reihe mit den Umschlägen,dass sie links gestrickt werden muss ?

03.08.2020 - 17:19

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ulrike, also ja genau, von der Vorderseite gesehen, sehen diese Maschen "recht" aus, dh sie werden links bei den Rückreihen gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

04.08.2020 kl. 09:24

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