DROPS / 178 / 68

Fabulous Farrah by DROPS Design

Top - tílko s ažurovým lemem pletené z příze DROPS Paris. Velikost: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: model č. w-640
Skupina přízí: C nebo A + A
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Velikost: S-M-L-XL-XXL-XXXL
Materiál: DROPS PARIS firmy Garnstudio (spadá do skupiny přízí C)
200-200-250-250-300-300 g, barva č.101, světlá modrá

DROPS KRUHOVÁ JEHLICE (60 nebo 80 cm) č.4,5 – nebo velikosti potřebné k upletení zkušebního vzorku o rozměrech 18 ok a 23 řad lícovým žerzejem = 10 cm na šířku a 10 cm na výšku.

Vyrobili jste si tento nebo nějaký jiný z našich modelů? Přidejte ke svým fotkám na sociálních sítích tag #dropsdesign - díky tomu je uvidíme i my!

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Nejste si jistí, kterou zvolit velikost? Třeba by vám pomohla informace, že modelka na obrázku je vysoká asi 170 cm a nosí velikost S nebo M. Pokud chcete plést/háčkovat pulovr, kabátek, šaty nebo podobný kousek, najdete dole pod návodem nákres s jednotlivými mírami v cm.

100% bavlna
od 35.00 Kč /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 40.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 35.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
Jehlice a háčky Objednat
Přízi na tento model můžete mít už za 140Kč. Více zde.

Návod

VROUBKOVÝ VZOR:
V kruhových řadách: pleteme střídavě 1 kruhovou řadu hladce, 1 obrace. 1 vroubek = 2 kruhové řady.
V řadách: pleteme stále hladce, lícové i rubové řady. 1 vroubek = 2 řady hladce.

TIP - UJÍMÁNÍ:
Ujímáme vždy v lícových řadách, vedle 3 krajních vroubkových ok na každé straně.
ZA 3 oky vroubkovým vzorem ujímáme přetažením, tj. 1 oko sejmeme hladce, 1 upleteme hladce a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme.
PŘED 3 oky vroubkovým vzorem splétáme 2 oka hladce.
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TOP:
Pleteme v kruhových řadách na kruhové jehlici až po průramky, pak dopleteme přední a zadní díl v řadách odděleně.

Na kruhovou jehlici č.4,5 nahodíme přízí Paris 180-200-210-240-260-290 ok a upleteme 1 vroubek VROUBKOVÝM VZOREM – viz výše. Pak pleteme nad všemi oky vzor A.1 (= v kruhové řadě máme 18-20-21-24-26-29 sekvencí vzoru). Po dokončení 1 celé sekvence vzoru A.1 (na výšku) máme na jehlici 144-160-168-192-208-232 ok. Označíme si boky – 1. značkou označíme začátek kruhové řady, 2. vložíme za 72.-80.-84.-96.-104.-116. oko. Nyní pleteme lícovým žerzejem. Ve výši 11-12-13-14-15-16 cm upleteme nad 16-16-16-18-20-20 oky na každém boku (= nad 8-8-8-9-10-10 oky na obou stranách každé značky) 2 vroubky; ostatní oka v kruhové řadě pleteme dál lícovým žerzejem. V následující kruhové řadě (tj. v kruhové řadě po dokončení 2 vroubků) uzavřeme na každé straně dílu 10-10-10-12-14-14 ok (= 5-5-5-6-7-7 ok na obou stranách každé značky). Jednotlivé díly pak dopleteme odděleně = 62-70-74-84-90-102 ok na předním i na zadním dílu.

PŘEDNÍ DÍL:
Pokračujeme lícovým žerzejem se 3 oky VROUBKOVÝM VZOREM na každé straně – viz výše. SOUČASNĚ přední díl tvarujeme – ujímáme na každé straně dílu 1 oko v každé 2. řadě (tj. v každé lícové), celkem 17-18-19-21-22-23x - viz TIP - UJÍMÁNÍ = 28-34-36-42-46-56 ok. Po dokončení veškerého ujímání upleteme 3 vroubky a poté všechna oka uzavřeme. Díl měří asi 28-30-32-34-36-38 cm.

ZADNÍ DÍL:
Pleteme stejně jako přední díl.

VÁZAČKA – KROUCENÁ ŠŇŮRA:
Ustřihneme si 2 vlákna příze, každé o délce 3 metry. Vlákna stáčíme pevně dohromady - jakmile se začnou samovolně kroutit, přeložíme je napolovic a necháme zkroutit znovu. Na každém konci uvážeme uzel.
Takto vyrobíme 2 vázačky (šňůry). Jednu vázačku pak protáhneme horním vroubkem na jedné straně předního dílu, pak horním okrajem zadního dílu a na rameni zavážeme na uzel. Stejně uvážeme ramínko i na druhé straně.

Schéma

= hladce
= 1 oko sejmeme hladce, 2 oka spleteme hladce a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme
= 1x nahodíme mezi 2 oky

Potřebujete poradit s tímto návodem?

Děkujeme, že jste si vybrali návod DROPS Design. Zakládáme si na tom, že dáváme k dispozici návody ověřené a snadno srozumitelné. Všechny návody jsou přeložené z norského originálu a tak si můžete kdykoli srovnat rozměry a počty s původním návodem (DROPS 178-68) .

Máte s návodem potíže? Níže najdete seznam odkazů, které vám pomohou dokončit vaše dílo co nejdříve - nebo se třeba přiučit něco nového.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

nahoru

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

nahoru

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

nahoru

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

nahoru

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

nahoru

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

nahoru

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

nahoru

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

nahoru

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

nahoru

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

nahoru

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

nahoru

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

nahoru

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

nahoru

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

nahoru

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

nahoru

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

nahoru

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

nahoru

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

nahoru

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

nahoru

Pořídili jste si přízi DROPS na tento model? Pak máte taky právo žádat po svém prodejci, u něhož jste nakoupili, pomoc a rady. Seznam DROPS obchodů najdete tady!
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Komentáře / Otázky (20)

Melina 16.02.2021 - 16:39:

Was beutetet das Muster A1? Ich sehe die Abbildung, aber ich verstehe sie nicht.

DROPS Design 17.02.2021 kl. 07:39:

Liebe Melina, hier lesen Sie mehr über Diagramme, und wie man solche Diagramme liest. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

DUCLOS 29.11.2020 - 18:09:

Bonjour, est-il possible d'avoir des photos de dos de vos modèles svp.... Merci d'avance

DROPS Design 30.11.2020 kl. 10:25:

Bonjour Duclos, dans des modèles comme celui-ci, le dos est identique au devant, raison pour laquelle nous n'avons pas de photos du dos. Bon tricot!

SONIA 03.05.2020 - 23:15:

Buona sera, sto eseguendo il vostro modello, ma quando scrivete.. intrecciare 10 maglie a ogni lato sul giro successivo (intrecciare 5 maglie a ogni lato di ogni segnapunti). Cosa indentede di preciso ? Che devo chiudere le maglie come fossi alla fine di un lavoro? E se si, che tipo di chiusura , singolarmente cioè punto per punto accavallato oppure in doppia o altro ?Scusate per la domanda ma sono alla prima esperienza, potrei avere un video di riferimento? Grazie in anticipo

DROPS Design 04.05.2020 kl. 09:09:

Buongiorno Sonia, si, deve chiudere le maglie come se fosse alla fine del lavoro: può usare tranquillamente il punto accavallato. Buon lavoro!

SONIA CASAGRANDE 03.05.2020 - 23:07:

Buona sera, sto eseguendo il vostro modello, ma quando scrivete.. intrecciare 10-10-10-12-14-14 maglie a ogni lato sul giro successivo (intrecciare 5-5-5-6-7-7 maglie a ogni lato di ogni segnapunti). Cosa indentede di preciso ? Che devo chiudere le maglie come fossi alla fine di un lavoro? E se si, che tipo di chiusura , singolarmente cioè punto per punto accavallato oppure in doppia o altro ?Scusate per la domanda ma sono alla prima esperienza.

Janet 20.04.2020 - 04:33:

In pattern 178-68 what does it mean when it says work A.1 over all stitches? Thank you Janet

DROPS Design 20.04.2020 kl. 06:38:

Dear Janet, this means that you have to knit after diagram A.1 and repeat this during whole row (i.e. all stitches). Happy knitting!

Francyw 10.06.2019 - 15:32:

Credo di aver finalmente capito!ultimo dubbio (almeno spero)le maglie a legaccio devo distribuirle tra i segnapunto...cioè 8 maglie prima del segnapunto e 8 dopo?grazie infinite per la vostra disponibilità 😁

DROPS Design 10.06.2019 kl. 15:51:

Buongiorno Francy. Sì esatto. Sono le 8 maglie prima e le 8 maglie dopo il segnapunti. Buon lavoro!

Francy 10.06.2019 - 14:40:

Mi spiace tanto , ma continuo a non capire...sarà la mia inesperienza...x due coste s’intendono due maglie da lavorare?perchè su 8?devo quindi lavorare 2 maglie a punto legaccio e 6 a diritto?o in senso inverso...sono proprio una frana😂

DROPS Design 10.06.2019 kl. 15:06:

Buongiorno Francy. Per costa a legaccio si intendono 2 ferri (o giri se si sta lavorando in tondo) a punto legaccio. Nel punto da lei indicato, deve lavorare 2 coste a legaccio sulle 16 maglie. Quindi lavora così: 1° giro lavora le 16 m a diritto; 2° giro, lavora le 16 m a rovescio; 3° giro: lavora le 16 m a diritto; 4° giro, lavora le 16 m a rovescio. Ci riscriva se è ancora in difficoltà. Buon lavoro!

Francy 10.06.2019 - 12:24:

Salve, sono alle Prime armi...potete spiegarmi il passaggio all’altezza 11 cm lavorare 2 coste ...cosa significa ? Grazie

DROPS Design 10.06.2019 kl. 12:39:

Buongiorno Francy. Deve lavorare 2 coste a maglia legaccio sulle 8 maglie che precedono e sulle 8 maglie che seguono ognuno dei due segnapunti. Buon lavoro!

Annalisa 07.06.2019 - 17:30:

Chiedo nuovamente una spiegazione per lo schema. Al primo giro con il gettato si intende una maglia dritta o due prima dell'accavallata

DROPS Design 07.06.2019 kl. 17:36:

Buongiorno Annalisa, ogni quadratino corrisponde a una maglia, per cui sul terzo ferro lavora un gettato e 2 maglie diritto prima dell'accavallata doppia. Buon lavoro!

Annalisa 04.06.2019 - 14:51:

Ringrazio per il chiarimento precedente , ma prima di partire vorrei anche capire il diagramma A.1 : all'inizio il primo ferro sono 3 maglie dritte ,poi faccio le maglie accavvalte, poi nuovamente 3 dritti +1 dritto di separazione tra i due disegni? ringrazio nuovamente ma non sono molto pratica con i diagrammi. complimenti per il sito e i modelli

DROPS Design 04.06.2019 kl. 15:00:

Buongiorno Annalisa, si il primo ferro di A.1 si lavora con 3 maglie diritto, 1 accavallata doppia e 4 maglie diritto. In questo modo si diminuiscono 2 maglie per ogni ripetizione, e quindi al ferro successivo il n° di maglie di ogni ripetizione sarà minore. Buon lavoro!

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