DROPS / 177 / 24

Aegean by DROPS Design

Jumper with seamless sleeves and lace pattern, worked top down in DROPS Belle. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no vs-031
Yarn group B
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Sizes: S/M – L/XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-200-250-250 g colour 14, light blue
200-200-200-250 g colour 15, jeans blue
NOTE: If the piece is worked in one colour, there will be sufficient yarn with 350-400-400-450 g Belle.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 MM – or the hook size needed to get 18 treble crochets and 9 rows on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height –
1 repeat of A.3 should measure 5 cm in width and the last 4 rows in the diagram measure 3.5 cm in height.
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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 1.80 £ /50g
DROPS Belle uni colour DROPS Belle uni colour 1.80 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
At the beginning of each row of treble crochet, replace the first treble crochet with 3 chain stitches.
At the beginning of each row of double crochet, replace the first double crochet with 1 chain stitch.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7. Diagrams A.1a and A.1b show how the rows start and finish. Diagrams A.2 and A.4 are used in the sides in sizes S/M and XXL.
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JUMPER:
The piece is worked in 2 parts which are sewn together.

BACK PIECE:
Right shoulder:
Start with light blue and hook size 4 mm and work 62-66-72-77 chain stitches. Turn the piece and work 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook (= 2 treble crochets) – READ CROCHET INFO. Work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 2-6-5-3 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* 7-7-8-9 more times = 52-56-61-65 treble crochets. Continue from the 2nd row in the diagrams (= row marked with an arrow) and work the pattern for the different sizes from the right side as follows:

Sizes S/M and XXL:
Work A.1b (= 1 stitch), A.3 over the next 45-54 treble crochets (= 5-6 repeats), A.4 over the next 5 treble crochets (= 1 repeat), A.1a (= 1 stitch). REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! Work the 3rd row back from the wrong side. Cut the strand.
Sizes L/XL and XXXL:
Work A.1b (= 1 stitch), work A.3 over the next 54-63 treble crochets (= 6-7 repeats), A.1b. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! Work the 3rd row back from the wrong side. Cut the strand.

Left shoulder:
Work chain stitches and the first row in the same way as for the right shoulder = 52-56-61-65 treble crochets.
Continue from the 2nd row in the diagrams (= row marked with an arrow) and work the patterns for the different sizes from the right side as follows:
Sizes S/M and XXL:
Work A.1a, work A.2 over the next 5 treble crochets(= 1 repeat), A.3 over the next 45-54 treble crochets (= 5-6 repeats), work A.1b. Work the 3rd row back from the wrong side. Do not cut the strand!
Sizes L/XL and XXXL:
Work A.1b, work A.3 over the next 54-63 treble crochets (= 6-7 repeats), work A.1b. Work the 3rd row back from the wrong side. Do not cut the strand!

All sizes:
Work the left and right shoulders together by continuing from the 4th row in the diagrams and work new chain stitches for the neck as follows: Work the pattern as before over the left shoulder, work 36 new chain stitches for the neck (= 1st row in A.5), continue with the pattern as before over the right shoulder. Turn and work back over the right shoulder until there is 1 stitch left before the 36 new chain stitches and skip this stitch. Work from the 2nd row of A.5 (= row marked with an arrow) over the 36 new chain stitches (= 4 repeats). Skip the next stitch (= first stitch on the left shoulder) and work the pattern as before to the end of the row. Turn the piece and work the last row in the diagrams.
Repeat the last 4 rows in height (= and work A.3 over A.5 (= in total 14-16-16-18 repeats of A.3 in width). When the last 4 row have been worked 5-5-6-6 time in height from shoulder and piece measures approx. 20-20-23-23 cm from the shoulder, change to jeans blue.
The outermost repeats in both sides of the piece are the sleeves and are not continued. Continue to work for the different sizes as follows:

Sizes S/M and XXL:
Continue the pattern from the 3rd row (= from the wrong side):
Skip A.1a, A.4, 2-1 repeats of A.3 and the first chain space in the next repeat of A.3 for the sleeve. Start in the next chain space of 3 chain stitches (= the middle chain space in a repeat of A.3) and work A.1a around this chain space, work A.4, work A.3 in total 8-12 times, A.2 and finish with A.1a around the middle chain space (with 3 chain stitches) in the next repeat of A.3. Turn the piece.
Sizes L/XL and XXXL:
Continue the pattern from the 3rd row (= from the wrong side).
Skip A.1b, 2-1 repeats of A.3 and skip the next 2 chain spaces in the next repeat of A.3. Start in the next chain space (= the last chain space in A.3) and work A.1b around this chain space, work A.3 in total 10-14 times in width, work A.1b around the next chain space (= first chain space in the next repeat of A.3). Turn the piece.

All sizes:
You have now skipped the same pattern in each side for the sleeves. Continue back and forth with the pattern until the piece measures approx. 43-47-51-54 cm from the shoulder – adjust so that you finish after the last row of A.3. Cut and fasten the strand.

FRONT PIECE:
Left shoulder:
Work chain stitches and the first row in the same way as the shoulders on the back piece = 52-56-61-65 treble crochets.
Continue from the 2nd row in the diagrams (= row marked with an arrow) and work the pattern for the different sizes from the right side as follows:
Sizes S/M and XXL:
Work A.6b over the first 10 treble crochets, A.3 over the next 36-45 treble crochets (= 4-5 repeats), A.4 over the next 5 treble crochets, A.1a. When A.1a, A.3 and A.4 are completed in height, repeat the last 4 rows, but when the 9th row has been completed (= row marked with a star in A.6b) cut the strand.
Sizes L/XL and XXXL:
Work A.6b over the first 10 treble crochets, work A.3 over the next 45-54 treble crochets (= 5-6 repeats), A.1b. When A.1b and A.3 have been completed in height repeat the last 4 rows, but when the 9th row has been completed (= row marked with a star in A.6b) cut the strand.

Right shoulder:
Work chain stitches and the first row in the same way as the start of the other shoulders = 52-56-61-65 treble crochets.
Continue from the 2nd row in the diagrams (= row marked with an arrow) and work the pattern for the different sizes from the right side as follows:
Sizes S/M and XXL:
Work A.1a, work A.2 over the next 5 treble crochets, A.3 over the next 36-45 treble crochets (= 4-5 repeats), work A.6a over the remaining 10 treble crochets.
Sizes L/XL and XXXL:
Work A.1b, work A.3 over the next 45-54 treble crochets (= 5-6 repeats), work A.6a over the remaining 10 treble crochets.

All sizes:
When the diagrams have been completed in height (apart from A.6a) repeat the last 4 rows in the diagrams. The right and left shoulders are now worked together on the 10th row as follows: work the 10th row in A.6a over the right shoulder, work 18 new chain stitches and work the 10th row in A.6b over the left shoulder. Continue with the pattern as before to the end of the row. Turn and work 1 row back (= 11th and last row in the diagrams). Work A.7 in total 2 times around the 18 new chain stitches. There are now 14-16-16-18 repeats of A.3 in width.
Continue to work in the same way as for the back piece – Adjust so you work the same number of repeats in height as on the back piece, before changing colour to jeans blue. The outermost repeats in each side are the sleeves and are not continued, in the same way as for the back piece. Check that you have the same number of repeats in height as on the back piece. Cut and fasten the strand.

ASSEMBLY:
Shoulder seams: Sew the shoulders together, edge to edge in each stitch with light blue.
Seams under the sleeves: Sew with light blue in the outermost stitch so that the seam is not thick.
Seams in the sides: Sew with jeans blue in the outermost stitch so that the seam is not thick.
Repeat in the other side. Cut and fasten the strands.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Work an edge around the sleeves as follows: Start mid under the sleeve and work with light blue and hook size 4 mm as follows: * work 1 double crochet, 3 chain stitches, skip 1 cm *, repeat from *-* around the whole sleeve and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet of the round. Work in the same way around the other sleeve. Cut and fasten the strand.

NECKLINE:
Work an edge around the neck with light blue and start mid top of one of the shoulders as follows:
ROUND 1: Fasten the strand with1 double crochet in the shoulder seam. Work * 3 chain stitches, skip approx. 2 cm, 1 double crochet *, repeat from *-* around the whole neckline and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet of the round.
ROUND 2: Work slip stitches to the first chain space.
Work 3 chain stitches and 2 treble crochets in the first chain space. Work 3 treble crochets around each chain space. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch from the beginning of the round.
ROUND 3: Work * 3 chain stitches, skip 3 treble crochets, 1 double crochet between the third and fourth treble crochet *, repeat from *-* along the whole neckline, but finish with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch.
ROUND 4: Work 1 chain stitch, * work 2 chain stitches, work 1 double crochet around the next chain space *, repeat from *-* along the whole neckline. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Cut and fasten the strand.

Diagram

= 1 chain stitch
= 1 double crochet in stitch
= 1 double crochet around the chain space/row of chain stitches
= 1 treble crochet in stitch
= Work 2 treble crochets together as follows: Work 1 treble crochet in the next treble crochet, but wait with the last pull through, work 1 more treble crochet in the same treble crochet, but at the last pull through, pull the strand through loops on the hook
= Work 2 treble crochets together as follows: Work 1 treble crochet around the middle chain stitch in the treble crochet group but wait with the last pull through, work 1 more treble crochet around the same chain stitch, but at the last pull through, pull the strand through all loops on the hook.
= 1 treble crochet around the chain space
= Work a treble crochet group around the chain space as follows: Work * 1 treble crochet, 1 chain stitch *, repeat from *-* 2 more times around the same chain space, 1 treble crochet around the same chain space
= 1 triple treble crochet around the chain space
= When this row is complete, cut the strand – see the description in the text
= start here!



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 177-24) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (42)

Bodil Kirstine Zaar 24.09.2019 - 09:53:

Når jeg har hæklet de 36 lm til hals og hæklet videre over højre skulder, står der: Vend og hækl tilbage, til der er 1 m tilbage..... hvilke masker skal jeg bruge ?? Jeg går efter str L/XL

DROPS Design 26.09.2019 kl. 08:48:

Hej Bodil, Hækl fra 2.række af A.5 (= række markeret med pil) over de 36 nye luftmasker (= 4 rapporter). God fornøjelse!

Thiebaud Annie 03.09.2019 - 09:29:

Bonjour \' je ne peux arriver à faire ce point pourriez-vous me suggérer un point pour concrétiser ce modèle ou un autre où je pourrai réaliser avec belle ile merci

DROPS Design 03.09.2019 kl. 14:47:

Bonjour Mme Thiebaud, avez-vous lu ce point de notre FAQ pour pouvoir lire un diagramme crochet? Chaque symbole représente une maille/un groupe de mailles décrit dans la légende. Suivez ensuite les diagrammes comme indiqué dans la FAQ et dans l'ordre expliqué dans le modèle. Bon crochet!

Annie Thiebaud 27.08.2019 - 22:38:

Bonsoir je voudrai savoir la façon de crocheter l'épaule gauche et la droite ensemble en continuant à partir du 4 rd de diagramme et crocheter de nouvelles mailles en l 'air pour l'encolure merci

DROPS Design 28.08.2019 kl. 08:54:

Bonjour Mme Thiebaud, crochetez le 4ème rang des diagrammes de l'épaule gauche, puis montez 36 ml, et crochetez maintenant le 4ème rang des diagrammes sur l'épaule droite = les 2 épaules sont réunies, tournez et crochetez comme avant (= rang 5 des diagrammes) et 4 x A.5 (en commençant par le rang avec la flèche) au-dessus des 36 mailles en l'air de l'encolure. Bon crochet!

Helma 10.07.2019 - 15:48:

Ik heb ook een vraag over de derde toer. Er staat eerst haak de linker en rechter schouder verder vanaf de 4e toer in patroon. Daarna staat er: Ga verder in patroon vanaf de derde toer, Sla over: A.1b, 2-1 herhalingen van A.3 enz. Wat moet ik nu precies haken?

DROPS Design 12.07.2019 kl. 08:19:

Dag Helma,

Voor beide schouders geldt dat je eerst lossen haakt waarop je de eerste toer haakt. De eerste toer is beschreven in de tekst. Dan ga je verder met de 2e toer in het telpatroon, dit is de toer met de pijl. De 3e toer haak je terug aan de verkeerde kant. Bij de rechter schouder knip je na de 3e toer de draad af, maar bij de linker schouder niet. Want vanaf de 4e toer haak je de rechter en linker schouder samen zoals beschreven in de tekst.

Thiebaud Annie 04.07.2019 - 19:41:

Vous ayant posé une question ce matin au sujet de ce tricot je voudrai avoir un complément sur ĺa suite on me dit de sauter a1b 2fs a3 et sauter les 2 arceaux mais comment?en maille glissée? Merci

DROPS Design 05.07.2019 kl. 08:29:

Bonjour Mme Thiebaud, vous coupez le fil à la fin du rang précédent et crochetez le 3ème rang en sautant les mailles du début du rang pour la manche (= A.1b, 2xA.3 + 2 arceaux), et crochetez maintenant la largeur du dos: A.1b, 10 x A.3 et A.1b (les mailles de la fin du rang ne sont pas non plus crochetées = 2ème manche). Bon crochet!

Annie Thiebaud 04.07.2019 - 11:12:

Pour la taille l xl crocheter le 3 rg sur l'envers quel dia gramme suivre? Ceci pour commencer l'épaule droite mercit

DROPS Design 04.07.2019 kl. 12:47:

Bonjour Mme Thiebaud, vous avez crocheté sur l'endroit: A.1b, 6 x A.3 et A.1b. Au rang suivant sur l'envers, crochetez: A.1b, répétez 6 x A.3 en lisant cette fois le diagramme de gauche à droite et terminez par A.1b. Bon crochet!

Larissa 01.07.2019 - 08:17:

Danke für die Antwort. Das heißt ich starte bei der rechten Schulter mit der Seite an der ich vorher den Faden abgeschnitten habe!?

DROPS Design 01.07.2019 kl. 08:43:

Liebe Larissa, ja genau, die letzte Reihe beim rechten Schulter ist eine Rückreihe, die ersten Reihe beim Rücktenteil wird eine Hinreihe, die beginnt dann wo Sie früher den Faden abgeschnitten haben. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Larissa 30.06.2019 - 17:54:

Hallo, ich beziehe mich auf die Drops Antwort vom 19.06.2018 um 8:15 "... continue over right shoulder as before from RS = A.1b, A.3 (only in S/M and XXL), A.4 and finish with A.1a." Muss es nicht heißen: A1b, A4, A3, A1a?? Wie häkel ich die rechte Schulter nach den 36 Luftmaschen an? Mit A4, also mit einem halben Rapport oder mit A3, also mit einem ganzen Rapport? Vielen Dank für die Hilfe

DROPS Design 01.07.2019 kl. 07:54:

Liebe Larissa, die rechte Schulter häkeln Sie mit A.1b, A.3, A.4 und A.1a aber wenn Sie dann über beiden Schulter häkeln, häkeln Sie die M vom linken Schulter wie zuvor = A.1b, A.3, A.2 (nur in S/M + XXL), und die letzte Reihe in A.6a (= Hinreihe), dann A.5 x 4 (= 9 Lm x 4 = 36 Lm) und die rechte Schulter wie zuvor: die letzte Reihe in A.6b, A.3, A.4, A.1a. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Dea 17.05.2019 - 16:29:

Buongiorno, quando dice "Taglie L/XL e XXXL: Continuare il motivo dal 3° ferro (= dal rovescio del lavoro). Saltare A.1b, 2-1 ripetizioni di A.3 e saltare i 2 archi di catenelle successivi nella ripetizione successiva di A.3...." il filo bisogna tagliarlo e riattaccarlo nel punto indicato? Purtroppo non è specificato. Grazie.

DROPS Design 17.05.2019 kl. 20:10:

Buongiorno Dea. Se sta lavorando in tinta unita, sì deve tagliare il filo. Se lavora con due colori, è il punto in cui si cambia colore. Buon lavoro!

Gerda 29.04.2019 - 18:11:

Hier loop ik vast: Haak de linker- en rechterschouder samen en nu moet ik ook nog 36 lossen voor de hals opzetten? Help

DROPS Design 05.05.2019 kl. 19:17:

Dag Gerda,

Je haakt eerst in patroon over de linkerschouder, dan haak je een aantal lossen en daarna pak je de rechter schouder erbij en dan haak je daarover verder in patroon. De 36 lossen zitten nu tussen de rechter en linker schouder in , midden voor bij de hals.

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