DROPS / 172 / 34

Helsinki Cardigan by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket with multi-coloured pattern and round yoke, worked top down in ”Karisma”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no u-796
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
550-600-650-750-800-900 g colour no 21, medium grey
100-100-100-100-150-150 g colour no 65, denim blue
50-50-100-100-100-100 g colour no 44, light grey
100 g for all sizes in colour no 39, dark old rose
50 g for all sizes of the following colours:
colour no 73, petrol
colour no 13, cerise

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 mm – or size needed to get 18 tr x 9 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 7-7-7-8-8-8 pieces

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
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DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.13. Diagrams show colour pattern on jacket. See diagram for correct size. Work diagrams A.2, A.5, A.7 and A.10 only in size M-XL-XXXL.

CROCHET INFO:
Beg every tr row with 3 ch (does not replace first tr).
Replace first tr at beg of every tr round with 3 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.

INCREASE TIP-1:
Work 2 tr with same colour in 1 tr on previous row.

COLOUR PATTERN (worked back and forth):
When changing colour work as follows: Work last tr with first colour but wait with last pull through, switch to next colour and work last pull through, then work next tr. When working with two colour place strand for the colour not worked over sts from previous row/round, work around the strand so that it is hidden and follows when working. Make sure to avoid tights yarn and not to tighten yarn when picking it up from previous row/round.

COLOUR PATTERN (worked in the round):
Work as COLOUR PATTERN (worked back and forth) but: Replace first tr with 3 ch, if last tr on previous round and first tr on next round are different colour work last tr as follows: Work last tr with first colour but wait with last pull through, switch to next colour and work last pull through, 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round, then work 3 ch (= beg of round).

DECREASE TIP:
Work until 4 tr remain before marker, work 2 tr tog, work 1 tr in each of the next 4 tr, (marker is in the middle of these sts), work the next 2 tr tog (= 2 tr dec). Repeat at both markers.

INCREASE TIP-2:
Work until 3 tr remain before marker, work 2 tr in next tr, 1 tr in each of the next 4 tr (marker is in the middle of these sts) and 2 tr in next tr (= 2 tr inc). Repeat at both markers.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth, top down. Work bands at the end.

YOKE:
Work 111-116-120-125-130-134 ch (incl 3 ch to turn with) on hook size 4 mm with denim blue. Work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook (= 1 tr) - READ CROCHET INFO, 1 tr in each of the next 2-0-4-2-0-4 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* = 93-97-101-105-109-113 tr.

Work 1st row in A.1 to A.5 and inc evenly as follows (= from RS): Work A.1 (= 1 tr) over 1 st, A.2 (= 2 tr) over the next 0-2-0-2-0-2 tr, repeat A.3 (= 4 tr) over the next 14-13-16-15-18-17 tr and inc 2-3-4-5-6-7 tr (= left front piece) – READ INCREASE TIP-1, A.4 (= 4 tr) – see diagram, repeat A.3 over the next 10 tr and inc 2-2-2-2-6-6 tr, A.4 over the next 4 tr (= left sleeve), repeat A.3 over the next 28-30-32-34-36-38 tr and inc 4-6-8-10-12-14 tr (= back piece), A.4 over the next 4 tr, repeat A.3 over the next 10 tr and inc 2-2-2-2-6-6 tr, A.4 over the next 4 tr (= right sleeve), repeat A.3 (= 4 tr) over the next 14-13-16-15-18-17 tr and inc 2-3-4-5-6-7 tr, finish with A.5 over the next 0-2-0-2-0-2 tr = 113-121-129-137-153-161 tr (incl inc in A.4) – READ COLOUR PATTERN (work back and forth)!

Work 2nd row in A.1 to A.5 as follows (= from WS):
Work A.5 over the first 0-2-0-2-0-2 tr, repeat A.3 over the next 16-16-20-20-24-24 tr, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 12-12-12-12-16-16 tr, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 32-36-40-44-48-52 tr, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 12-12-12-12-16-16 tr, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 16-16-20-20-24-24 tr, finish with A.2 over the next 0-2-0-2-0-2 tr and A.1 over the last st = 121-129-137-145-161-169 sts (incl inc in A.4). REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!

Work 5th row in A.1 to A.5 and inc evenly as follows (= from RS):
Work A.1 over 1 tr, A.2 over the next 0-2-0-2-0-2 tr, repeat A.3 over the next 16-16-20-20-24-24 tr and inc 0-2-4-4-4-4 tr (= left front piece), A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 12-12-12-12-16-16 tr and inc 4-4-4-4-8-8 tr, A.4 (= left sleeve), repeat A.3 over the next 32-36-40-44-48-52 tr and inc 0-4-4-4-8-8 tr (= back piece), A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 12-12-12-12-16-16 tr and inc 4-4-4-4-8-8 tr, A.4 (= right sleeve), repeat A.3 over the next 16-16-20-20-24-24 tr and inc 0-2-4-4-4-4 tr, finish with A.5 over the last 0-2-0-2-0-2 tr = 153-169-181-189-217-225 tr (incl inc in A.4).

Work 6th row in A.1 to A.5 as follows (= from WS):
Work A.5 over the first 0-0-0-2-0-2 tr, repeat A.3 over the next 16-20-24-24-28-28 tr, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 16-16-16-16-24-24 tr, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 32-40-44-48-56-60 tr, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 16-16-16-16-24-24 tr, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 16-20-24-24-28-28 tr, A.2 over the next 0-0-0-2-0-2 tr, finish with A.1 over the last tr = 161-177-189-197-225-233 tr (incl inc in A.4). Then work as follows in each size:

SIZE S:
The even inc is now done, continue and work A.1 to A.5 and inc as in A.4. When A.1 to A.5 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 181 tr.

SIZE M-L-XL-XXL-XXXL:
Work 7th row in A.1 to A.5 and inc evenly as follows (= from RS):
Work A.1 over 1 tr, A.2 over the next 0-0-2-0-2 tr, repeat A.3 over the next 20-24-24-28-28 tr and inc 0-0-2-4-4 tr, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 16-16-16-24-24 tr and inc 4 tr, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 40-44-48-56-60 tr and inc 0-4-4-4-8 tr, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 16-16-16-24-24 tr and inc 4 tr, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 20-24-24-28-28 tr and inc 0-0-2-4-4 tr, finish with A.5 over the last 0-0-2-0-2 tr = 185-201-213-245-257 tr.

Work 8th row in A.1 to A.5 as follows (= from WS):
Work A.5 over the first 0-0-0-0-2 tr, repeat A.3 over the next 20-24-28-32-32 tr, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 20-20-20-28-28 tr, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 40-48-52-60-68 tr, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 20-20-20-28-28 tr, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 20-24-28-32-32 tr, A.2 over the next 0-0-0-0-2 tr, finish with A.1 over the last tr = 193-209-221-253-265 tr (incl inc in A.4).

Work 9th row in A.1 to A.5 and inc evenly as follows (= from RS):
Work A.1 over 1 tr, A.2 over the next 0-0-0-0-2 tr, repeat A.3 over the next 20-24-28-32-32 tr and inc 0-0-0-0-2 tr, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 20-20-20-28-28 tr and inc 4 tr, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 40-48-52-60-68 tr and inc 0-0-4-4-4 tr, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 20-20-20-28-28 tr and inc 4 tr, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 20-24-28-32-32 tr and inc 0-0-0-0-2 tr, A.5 over the last 0-0-0-0-2 tr = 213-229-245-277-293 tr (incl inc in A.4).

ALL SIZES:
Piece now measures approx. 11 cm.

Work 1st row in A.6 to A.10 as follows (= from WS):
Work A.10 (= 4 tr) over the first 0-4-0-4-0-4 tr, repeat A.8 (= 8 tr) over the next 16-16-24-24-32-32 tr, repeat A.9 (= 7 tr) over the next 21 tr, A.8 over the next 16-24-24-24-32-32 tr, repeat A.9 over the next 21 tr, repeat A.8 over the next 32-40-48-56-64-72 tr, repeat A.9 over the next 21 tr, A.8 over the next 16-24-24-24-32-32 tr, repeat A.9 over the next 21 tr, repeat A.8 over the next 16-16-24-24-32-32 tr, A.7 (= 4 tr) over the next 0-4-0-4-0-4 tr, A.6 (= 1 tr) over last tr. Continue pattern like this and inc as shown in A.9. Work 5-5-7-7-9-9 rows of A.6 to A.10.

On 6th-6th-8th-8th-10th-10th row – see arrow in diagram in A.6 to A.10 work and inc evenly as follows (= from RS):
Work A.6 over 1 tr, A.7 over the next 0-4-0-4-0-4 tr, A.8 over the next 16-16-24-24-32-32 tr and inc 2-2-2-2-2-4 tr, repeat A.9 over the next 30 tr, A.8 over the next 16-24-24-24-32-32 tr and inc 4-0-2-6-0-4 tr, A.9 over the next 30 tr, A.8 over the next 32-40-48-56-64-72 tr and inc 4-4-4-4-4-8 tr, repeat A.9 over the next 30 tr, A.8 over the next 16-24-24-24-32-32 tr and inc 4-0-2-6-0-4 tr, repeat A.9 over the next 30 tr, repeat A.8 over the next 16-16-24-24-32-32 tr and inc 2-2-2-2-2-4 tr, A.10 over the last 0-4-0-4-0-4 tr = 233-257-277-301-321-353 tr.

Work 1-2-1-2-1-2 rows more AT THE SAME TIME on first row inc 0-4-16-16-16-12 tr evenly on first row (i.e. 7-8-9-10-11-12 rows of A.6 to A.10 have been worked in total) = 233-261-293-317-337-365 tr. Piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm. Then work as follows in each size:

SIZE M-XL-XXXL:
Work next row as follows - from WS:
Work A.8 over the first 37-45-55 tr (= right front piece), work 8-8-10 ch, insert 1 marker between these sts, skip the next 56-68-72 tr (= right sleeve), A.8 over the next 74-90-110 tr (= back piece), work 8-8-10 ch, insert 1 marker between these sts, skip the next 56-68-72 tr (= left sleeve), A.8 over the last 38-46-56 tr (= left front piece) = 165-197-241 tr.

SIZE S-L-XXL:
Work next row as follows from RS:
Work A.8 over the first 34-42-50 tr (= left front piece), skip the next 50-64-70 tr (= left sleeve), work 8-8-10 ch, insert 1 marker between these sts, A.8 over the next 66-82-98 tr (= back piece), skip the next 50-64-70 tr (= right sleeve), work 8-8-10 ch, insert 1 marker between these sts, A.8 over the next 33-41-49 tr (= right front piece) = 149-181-217 tr.

ALL SIZES:
= 149-165-181-197-217-241 tr. Insert 1 marker in the piece. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Work next row as follows: Repeat A.11 until 1 st remain, work last st as first st in A.11 (this is done so that the piece is the same in both sides). Continue piece in medium grey. When piece measures 4 cm from marker, dec 2 tr at each marker - READ DECREASE TIP. Dec like this every 9-5-5-10-6-6 cm 2-3-3-2-3-3 times in total = 141-153-169-189-205-229 tr. When piece measures 15-17-17-19-19-21 cm, inc 2 tr at each marker – see INCREASE TIP-2. Inc like this every 3 cm a total of 4 times = 157-169-185-205-221-245 tr. When piece measures 31-33-33-35-35-37 cm, inc 0-0-2-0-2-2 tr evenly = 157-169-187-205-223-247 tr. Adjust so that next row is from RS. Work A.12 (= 6 sts) until 1 st remains, work first st in A.12 (this is done so that the pattern is the same in both sides). When A.12 has been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from neck edge. Fasten off.

SLEEVE:
= 50-56-64-68-70-72 tr. Sleeve is worked in the round, top down. Beg by working mid under sleeve as follows: Work 8th-9th-10th-11th-12th-13th round in diagram A.8 over all sts like this (i.e. work stripes, diagram will not fit no of sts). Work 1 dc in 5th ch of the 8-8-8-8-10-10 ch work in armhole on body, 3 ch (= 1 tr), work 1 tr in each of the next 3-3-3-3-5-5 ch, work 1 tr in every tr over sleeve, work 1 tr in each of the remaining 4 ch under sleeve = 58-64-72-76-80-82 tr. Insert 1 marker thread mid under sleeve. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Leave marker in piece, move marker thread when working. Work like this on next round: Work 1-0-0-0-0-1 tr, repeat A.11 over the next 56-64-72-76-80-80 tr (= 14-16-18-19-20-20 times in width), finish with 1-0-0-0-0-1 tr. When A.11 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue with medium grey. When piece measures 5 cm, dec 1 tr on each side of marker thread (= 2 tr dec). Dec like this every 3- 2½-2-1½-1½-1½ cm 9-12-14-16-16-17 times in total = 40-40-44-44-48-48 tr. When piece measures 40-40-39-39-38-38 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke), work A.13 (= 2 tr) on round. Fasten off when A.13 has been worked 1 time vertically. Piece measures approx. 70-71-72-73-74-75 cm from neck edge. Work the other sleeve the same way.

BAND:
Beg at top of neck edge. Worked back and forth. Work with medium grey as follows: Work 1 sl st around first tr, 1 dc around same tr, * 2 ch, 1 dc around next tr *, repeat from *-* down the entire edge on jacket, finish with 1 dc in last tr. Then work 95 to 115 tr around ch-spaces evenly (make sure to avoid tightening or widening piece). Continue with 1 tr in every tr until band measures 4 cm. Fasten off. Work the other band the same way.

NECK EDGE:
Worked back and forth from mid front. Work ch where tr were worked (i.e. do not work over the ch skipped = 93-97-101-105-109-113 tr and over band). Work with denim blue:

ROW 1 (from RS): Work 7 dc evenly around band tr, 1 dc in each of the first 8-9-10-11-12-13 sts, * 1 htr in each of the next 3 sts, 1 tr in each of the next 3 sts, 1 dtr in each of the next 18 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 3 sts, 1 htr in each of the next 3 sts *, 1 dc in each of the next 16-18-20-22-24-26 sts, repeat from *-* 1 time, 1 dc in each of the last 9-10-11-12-13-14 sts, work 7 dc evenly on band tr = 107-111-115-119-123-127 sts.
ROW 2 (= from WS): Work 1 dc in each of the first 20-21-22-23-24-25 sts, ** 1 htr in each of the next 3 sts, 1 tr in each of the next 3 sts, * work the next 2 dtr tog *, repeat from *-* 4 more times, 1 tr in each of the next 3 sts, 1 htr in each of the next 3 sts **, 1 dc in each of the next 24-26-28-30-32-34 sts, repeat from **-** 1 more time, finish with 1 dc in each of the last 19-20-21-22-23-24 sts = 97-101-105-109-113-117 sts. Work 1 row with 1 dc in every st. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew on buttons on left band. Fasten 1st button approx. 2 cm from neck edge, then fasten them approx. 8 cm apart. Button between 2 tr on right band.

Diagram

= 1 tr with denim blue
= 2 tr in tr with denim blue
= 1 tr with medium grey
= 2 tr with medium grey
= 1 tr with dark old pink
= 2 tr in tr with dark old rose
= 1 tr with petrol
= 2 tr in tr with petrol
= 1 tr with light grey
= 2 tr in tr with medium grey
= 1 tr with cerise
= inc row - see pattern


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 172-34) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (97)

Cindy 09.02.2020 - 15:57:

Désolée, je viens de comprendre...

Cindy 09.02.2020 - 15:41:

Bonjour, je suis au début de l'ouvrage, à l'empiècement. Les explications passent du rang 2 au rang 5, pouvez-vous me dire comment on fait les rangs 3 et 4 s'il vous plaît? Merci

DROPS Design 10.02.2020 kl. 09:31:

Bonjour Cindy, crochetez les rangs 3 et 4 comme indiqué auparavant (dans le même ordre sur l'endroit et sur l'envers) - en suivant les rangs 3 et 4 des mêmes diagrammes. Bon crochet!

Gerda Zoet 06.01.2020 - 21:53:

In de geschreven tekst in het Nederlands mist toer 3 + 4. Voor mij als beginner was het lastig om dit via het getekende patroon terug te vinden.

Audrey 22.11.2019 - 20:04:

I'm having trouble knowing where to put the increases in the 1st row of the yoke. I've worked out that the increases need to be put within the number of sts over which A3 is worked , but do I do them evenly over the 28 sts or at the beginning or end or split between the beginning and end? The tips state do them 2 sts before the marker, but I can't see anywhere that says where to put the markers. Please help, it looks so lovely I would hate to give up.

DROPS Design 25.11.2019 kl. 08:09:

Dear Audrey, you will find how to increase evenly here., ie following INCREASE TIP-1 (not increase tip-2, this will be used for increases on each side of body. Happy crocheting!

Nancy 19.11.2019 - 02:33:

When dividing for the sleeves, it says work 8 chains, insert 1 marker between these stitches. Between which stitches? The 4th and 5th chain? After the 8th chain? Thank you

DROPS Design 19.11.2019 kl. 09:12:

Dear Nancy, yes right, you should have 4 chains before and after each marker, these mark the middle of the sides. Happy crocheting!

Malin Åberg 17.10.2019 - 20:53:

Jag höll på att bli galen tills jag ser att varv 2 och 3 på oket saknas i mönstret. Får jag tillgång till det blir jag överlycklig!

DROPS Design 18.10.2019 kl. 11:24:

Hej Malin, varv 3 virkar du enligt varv 3 i diagrammet, i samma följd som du virkade varv 1 från rätsidan. Samma med varv 4 i diagrammet, som virkas från avigsidan. Lycka till :)

Ulla 13.09.2019 - 21:13:

Hvordan hekles rad 13 med økninger i A9 da A9 består av 8 masker og ikke går opp med 21 masker som mønsteret tilsier?

DROPS Design 17.09.2019 kl. 14:30:

Hej Ulla, 1.række i A.9 består af 7 masker, men du hækler 2 masker for hver gang du hækler 1.maske på rækken. Den nye maske er tegnet ind i 2.række i diagrammet. Når du kommer til række 4 i A.9 tager du 2 masker ud ifølge diagrammet. God fornøjelse!

Chantal Imgrüth 13.06.2019 - 16:47:

Guten Tag Ich häkel in Grösse M und stehe bei Reihe 3 und 4 toal auf dem Schlauch, in welcher Abfolge ich A1 bis A5 häkeln muss? Vielen Dank für Ihre Unterstützung

DROPS Design 14.06.2019 kl. 07:05:

Liebe Frau Imgrüth, Reihe 3 von A.1 bis 1.5 wird von der Vorderseite gehäkelt, dh wie bei der 1. Reihe rechts nach links in Diagramme gelesen. Hier lesen Sie mehr über Diagramme. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Marloes 11.05.2019 - 18:37:

Bedankt voor uw reactie maar ik zie niet welk telpatroon. Ik zie het blokjespatroon van het kleurenschema maar er staat nergens een schema waar staat welk deel van het patroon je haakt bij welk deel van het vest. Dus bij A3 staat niet geschreven waar ik dat haak en bij A4 etc ook niet. Normaal staat er wel een uitleg beschreven maar hier kan ik geen wijs uit worden.

DROPS Design 15.05.2019 kl. 08:55:

Dag Marloes,

In de beschrijving staat stap voor stap beschreven wanneer je welke telptronen breit. Je begint met het opzetten van lossen voor de pas (eerste paragraaf bij 'PAS'), daarna ga je verder met de volgende paragraaf en daar staat ook aangegeven wanneer je A.3 , A.4 etc moet haken. Tevens staat aangegeven hoe vaak (dus over hoeveel steken of hoeveel herhalingen) je van elk telpatroon moet haken en in welke volgorde je ze moet haken.

Kijk evt. ook nog even bij het tabje 'FAQ', waar je uitleg vindt over hoe je telpatronen voor haken moet lezen.

Marloes 11.05.2019 - 15:27:

Ik vind dit vest prachtig maar ik kom echt niet uit dit patroon. Ik snap niet hoe ik toer 3 en 4 moet haken. Waar haak ik A3 en waar haak ik A4? Of sla ik A4 helemaal over en haak ik alleen A3 in toer 3 en 4? Dat lijkt me niet , omdat ik toch ook ergens moet meerderen. Ik hoor het graag.

DROPS Design 11.05.2019 kl. 17:44:

Dag Marloes,

Toer 3 en 4 haak je gewoon volgens telpatroon, dus je gaat gewoon verder met haken van de telpatronen in de volgorde als hiervoor. De toeren waar meerderingen in zitten zijn in het telpatroon aangegeven met een pijl en beschreven in het patroon.

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