DROPS / 167 / 11

Summer Twist by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS shoulder piece with cables, lace pattern and short rows in ”Alpaca” and ”Kid-Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no z-732
Yarn group A + A or C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL
Chest measurements: approx. 88-96-104-114-126-138 cm

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
150-150-200-200-200-250 g colour no 3720, medium pink
And use: DROPS KID SILK from Garnstudio
75-75-75-75-100-100 g colour no 04, medium pink

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.80 £ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 3.80 £ /25g
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DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 3.80 £ /25g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS. See diagram for size.
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SHOULDER PIECE:
Worked in two parts that are sewn tog mid back.
Worked back and forth on needle.

RIGHT SIDE: Work from mid back of neck, around the body and finish mid back on back.

Cast on 53-53-63-63-68-68 sts on needle size 5 mm with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Then work according to A.1 - see diagram for size. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 22-24-26-29-32-35 cm, work short rows as follows from RS - continue pattern as before:
SIZE S-M:
Work until 6 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 8 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 11 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 13 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 22 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 24 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 27 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 29 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 38 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 40 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 43 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 45 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Insert a marker here.
Size L-XL:
Work until 6 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 8 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 11 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 13 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 16 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 18 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 27 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 29 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 32 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 34 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 43 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 45 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 48 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 50 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 53 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 55 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Insert a marker here.
Size XXL-XXXL:
Work until 6 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 8 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 11 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 13 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 16 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 18 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 27 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 29 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 32 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 34 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 37 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 39 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 48 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 50 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 53 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 55 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 58 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 60 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Insert a marker here.

Then work according to A.1 again - continue pattern where short rows ended. Work A.1 for 30-33-36-40-44-48 cm from marker, then work short rows the same way as last time. Move marker here and work A.1 for 22-24-26-29-32-35 cm, work 2 ridges and cast off.

LEFT SIDE:
Cast on and work as right side but when working short rows beg from WS.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew tog cast-on edge from right side towards cast-on edge on left side, cross the sides and sew tog cast-off edges. Sew tog shoulder piece mid back (sew approx. 10 cm) and sew a small stitch mid front.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 16.02.2016
Correction: Text for symbol 2 and 11 was mixed up.

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
= work 2 sts in 1 st
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= 1 double YO between 2 sts, on next row drop the first YO down, K second YO twisted
= this st has been cast off, skip square
= slip 1 st as if to K, work 2 sts, psso
= cast off 1 st



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 167-11) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (17)

Adria Vitelli 19.09.2019 - 15:24:

Ma devo saltare le prime 4?.. Perché, ad esempio, continuando con il diagramma a1 su ferri accorciati, eseguendo il primo ferro( lasciate non lavorate 6 mg finali),quando poi vado ad eseguire il secondo ferro, si sfalza il motivo e non combaciano più le maglie ...

DROPS Design 19.09.2019 kl. 17:16:

Buongiorno Adria. Sul ferro di ritorno non deve iniziare il diagramma dal primo quadratino, ma dal quadratino che corrisponde all’ultima maglia lavorata sul ferro precedente, in modo che il motivo combaci. Buon lavoro!

Adria Vitelli 19.09.2019 - 11:17:

Buongiorno, ho lavorato il diagramma A1 per 22cm (tg S) ma ora non riesco a capire come devo proseguire. Dovrei continuare a lavorare A1 ma su ferri accorciati?...non riesco a capire come continuare con il motivo A1 e contemporaneamente lavorare a ferri accorciati. Ringrazio per qualsiasi aiuto.

DROPS Design 19.09.2019 kl. 12:02:

Buongiorno Adria. Quando lavora i ferri accorciati, sulle maglie che lavora prosegue con il diagramma in modo che il motivo continui correttamente . Gira il lavoro quando sui ferri rimane il numero di maglie che non deve lavorare (la prima volta 6 m, la seconda 8 maglie e così via). Buon lavoro!

Giulia Stevanato 20.05.2019 - 14:55:

Salve volevo sapere se si può acquistare la maglia già finita

DROPS Design 20.05.2019 kl. 15:48:

Buongiorno Giulia, purtroppo non vendiamo i capi finiti, ma può rivolgersi a un rivenditore DROPS, che sicuramente avrà delle magliaie disposte a confezionare il capo su commissione. Buon lavoro!

Bettina 31.07.2018 - 08:46:

Liebes DROPS-Team, gibt es eine Möglichkeit, das Diagramm für dieses wunderschöne Modell in höherer Auflösung zu downloaden bzw auszudrucken? Im Video ist es viel besser sichtbar als beim Ausdrucken der Anleitung... Vielen Dank!!!

DROPS Design 31.07.2018 kl. 10:02:

Liebe Bettina, es gibt nur dieses Diagram, aber gerne können Sie es beim drücken oder kopieren vergrößern. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Marie 30.05.2018 - 21:05:

Bonjour, Quelle est la méthode utilisée pour les rangs raccourcis ? Si il existe une vidéo pouvez-vous m'indiquer le lien ? Merci d'avance. Cordialement. Marie

DROPS Design 30.05.2018 kl. 22:00:

Chere Marie, moi personnellement j’utilise la methode de base, cliquez sur le video ci-apres Comment tricoter des raccourcis (méthode de base). Bon travail!

Viertel 01.03.2016 - 08:49:

Pouvez-vous me donner la longueur totale du modèle je souhaite tricoter au point mousse. D'avance merci. Bien cordialement. Anne

DROPS Design 01.03.2016 kl. 09:36:

Bonjour Mme Viertel, ce modèle a été conçu en point fantaisie avec des rangs raccourcis pour correspondre aux tailles indiquées d'après les explications. Aucune autre mesure n'est disponible, je suis désolée. Bon tricot!

Luise Duke 19.02.2016 - 09:55:

Thank you kindly for your help. I am happily knitting now, such a beautiful pattern, I just couldnt let it go. Luise Duke

Luise Duke 13.02.2016 - 20:17:

In the chart A1 there is no key for the cable section and no instructions as to make the cable. I am struggling to work it out correctly and to work out the type of cable, over those sets of stitches. Pkease help. Thank you.

DROPS Design 15.02.2016 kl. 10:28:

Dear Mrs Duke, the video below shows how to work A.1 in first size, this may help you to get how to work diagram. Happy knitting!

DROPS Design 11.02.2016 - 14:36:

Hoi Christien. Ik ben met je eens, dat het raar uitziet. Ik heb daarom de vraag doorgestuurd naar ons Design Team en wacht nu op antwoord/evt correctie. Dus nog even geduld :-)

Christien Van Dongen 02.02.2016 - 16:04:

Het gaat om de teltekening van patroon 167-11. Kan het zijn dat de tekening niet helemaal klopt of lees ik hem verkeerd? Ik kom niet uit met het aantal steken namelijk. Er staan in de teltekening ook kleine kruisjes en dikke kruisjes getekend maar van de dikke kruisjes staat nergens wat de bedoeling hiervan is. Ik hoop snel antwoord van u te ontvangen.

DROPS Design 16.02.2016 kl. 16:37:

Hoi Christien. Het uitleg is aangepast. Allebei kruisjes zijn averecht aan de goede kant, recht aan de verkeerde kant

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