DROPS / 168 / 14

Lilia by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS shawl with picot edge in ”Brushed Alpaca Silk”.

Tags: lace, shawls,

DROPS design: Pattern no as-058
Yarn group C or A + A
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Measurements: Length at the top: approx. 160 cm Height in the middle: approx. 40 cm
Materials:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
50 g colour no 14, light grey green
25 g colour no 01, off white
25 g colour no 17, light lavender

NOTE: If the shawl is worked with one colour 75 g Brushed Alpaca Silk are used.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 24 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
Comments (13)

77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 1.80 £ /25g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 1.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

EYELET EDGE:
ROW 1 (= RS): K 1, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, K until first marker, 1 YO, K 34, 1 YO after second marker, K until 2 sts remain on row, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, K 1.
ROW 2 (= WS): K 1, drop YO off the needle, K 1, 1 YO, K until 2 sts remain on row, 1 YO, K 1, drop YO off the needle, K 1.
ROW 3 (= RS): K 1, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, * K 2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* until 1 or 2 sts remain before first marker, K 1 or 2, 1 YO, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain before second marker, K 2, 1 YO, repeat from *-* until 3 or 4 sts remain on row, K 1 or 2, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, K 1.
ROW 4 (= WS): K 1, drop YO off the needle, K 1, 1 YO, K until 2 sts remain on row, 1 YO, K 1, drop YO off the needle, K 1.
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SHAWL:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from top and down.
Cast on 40 sts on circular needle size 5 mm with light grey green. Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Insert 2 markers in the piece as follows: Insert first marker after the first 3 sts, insert second marker when 3 sts remain on row. Then work in stocking st as follows:
ROW 1 (= RS): K 1, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, K until first marker, 1 YO, K 34, 1 YO after second marker, K until 2 sts remain on row, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, K 1.
ROW 2 (= WS): K 1, drop YO off the needle, K 1, 1 YO, P until 2 sts remain on row, 1 YO, K 1, drop YO off the needle, K 1.
After the first 2 rows 6 sts (4 sts from RS and 2 sts from WS) have been inc and there are 46 sts in total on row. Continue to inc the same way 37 more times = 268 sts on needle (there should be 38 holes along each of the 2 markers and piece measures approx. 32 cm in the middle of piece). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION Switch to off white and work EYELET EDGE - see explanation above. After eyelet edge switch to light lavender and work in garter st while AT THE SAME TIME inc 4 sts on every row from RS and 2 sts on every row from WS as before. When piece measures 38 cm (measured in the middle of piece), switch back to off white and work EYELET EDGE the same way as last time.

CAST-OFF EDGE WITH PICOT:
After eyelet edge cast off with a picot edge from RS as follows: K 1, (* insert right needle in between the first 2 sts on left needle (i.e. between sts on needle, not through sts), make 1 YO on right needle, pull YO forwards between sts and slip YO on left needle *, repeat from *-* 2 more times (= 3 new sts on left needle). ** K first st on left needle, pass first st on right needle over last st worked **), repeat from **-** 5 times in total and repeat from (-) along the entire shawl until 1 st remains. Cut the yarn and pull it through last st.

Comments (13)

Leave your comment!

Sarah 07.08.2018 - 12:59:

Bonjour, j'ai recommencé mon chale en tenant compte de vos indications et ça ne va toujours pas, je suis au 20ème rang, j'ai le bon nombre de maille par contre j'ai 21 mailles avant le premier marqueur et 39 mailles après le deuxième marqueur et les jours après le deuxième marqueurs ne sont pas droits mais en biais alors je ne sais plus quoi faire! est ce qu'il n'y a pas une erreur dans le modèle? Merci

DROPS Design 07.08.2018 kl. 15:14:

Bonjour Sarah, les marqueurs doivent bien rester en place, de chaque côté des 34 m endroit, à chaque fois que vous augmentez vous devez procéder ainsi au milieu: 1 jeté, marqueur, 34 m end, marqueur, 1 jeté. Le nombre de mailles avant et après le marqueur va augmenter et le nombre de mailles entre les 2 marqueurs va toujours rester à 34 m. Bon tricot!

Sarah 05.08.2018 - 13:32:

Bonjour, j'ai bien avancé dans la réalisation de ce chale mais je viens de voir que j'ai un problème, les jours qui sont de chaque coté des marqueurs ne sont pas symétriques, d'un coté ils sont droits et de l'autre ils partent en biais. Est ce qu'ils faut bouger les marqueurs ou pas ? Sinon les 34 mailles centrales seront plus nombreuses? Je n'ai respecté les 34 mailles centrales que pour le premier rang, pour les autres j'ai tricoter jusqu'au marqueur suivant. Merci

DROPS Design 06.08.2018 kl. 09:27:

Bonjour Sarah, les augmentations (jetés) se font de part et d'autres des 34 m, on doit toujours avoir: 1 jeté, 34 m, 1 jeté, ainsi les jours seront droits. Bon tricot!

Sarah 31.07.2018 - 15:09:

Bonjour, J'ai commencé ce chale mais je me pose une question sur les jetés, à part ceux que l'on lache, les autres doivent être tricotés normalement pour faire un jour ou alors ils faut les tricoter torse pour éviter le jour? Merci

DROPS Design 31.07.2018 kl. 15:27:

Bonjour Sarah, les jetés sont tricotés "normalement" pour qu'ils forment des trous. Bon tricot!

Mónica Ferreyra 01.09.2017 - 12:37:

Hola, quisiera saber qué significa MP en el punto musgo, en la tercera vuelta del chal. Gracias, desde Buenos Aires, Argentina

Annica Bruce 27.08.2017 - 22:24:

Hej jag undrar då man stickar rätstickningen mellan hålvarven ska man göra omslagen, ökningen, vid stickmarkören som tidigare eller ska man hoppa över den Mvh Annica

DROPS Design 29.08.2017 kl. 14:22:

Hej, du ska fortsätta ökningarna med omslag som förut.

Silvana 03.05.2016 - 01:28:

Non mi ritrovo con gli aumenti: quando si dice che la maglia gettata del primo ferro va fatta cadere dal ferro nel secondo, se si fa in realtà non c'è un aumento. Ma se si lavora si formano due occhielli e un terzo con la maglia gettata sul rovescio. Dalla foto sembrerebbe che ce ne sia uno solo. grazie per l'aiuto.

DROPS Design 03.05.2016 kl. 06:55:

Buongiorno Silvana. Le indicazioni sono corrette. Nel primo ferro vengono fatte 6 gettate (2 da ciascun lato del lavoro, 1 prima e 1 dopo le m centrali). Al secondo ferro fa cadere 2 gettate del ferro precedente (quindi ci sono 4 m in più rispetto al ferro 1: 1 m da ciascun lato, e 1 m prima/dopo le m centrali) e aggiunge 2 gettate, quindi altri 2 aumenti. Le m gettate che vengono fatte cadere servono perchè il bordo non tiri troppo. Buon lavoro!

Mila 17.03.2016 - 00:33:

Ik krijg links en rechts een verschillende rand aan de buitenkant (bovenkant). Ik heb bij ‘omslagdoek’ NLD 2 geinterpreteerd als ‘av tot er 2 st PLUS OMSLAG over zijn op de nld’ (anders kan je niet nog 2 keer r breien en een omslag laten afglijden). Maar resultaat is dus dat de linker- en rechter buitenrand verschillend zijn. Heeft u een advies?

Kirsten A 01.03.2016 - 11:01:

Veldig dårlig forklart på 2. Omgang vrangen når man kommer til slutten. Det bør stå når man kommer til de tre siste maskene , ikke de to siste. 😡

Daphne 04.02.2016 - 17:31:

Klopt het dat er aan de ene zijde minder gemeerderd wordt dan aan de andere zijde? Wordt de omslagdoek dan asymmetrisch? Ik kom er niet goed uit. Vind het er overigens prachtig uitzien op afbeelding!

DROPS Design 09.02.2016 kl. 16:48:

Hoi Daphne. Nee, je meerdert 3 st aan beide kanten van de markeerder (= 6 st per keer): 1 r, 1 omsl, 1 r, 1 omsl, r tot eerste markeerder, 1 omsl, 34 r, 1 omsl na tweede markeerder, r tot er 2 st over zijn op de nld, 1 omsl, 1 r, 1 omsl, 1 r.

Rosa 26.01.2016 - 19:01:

Agradecería una respuesta a la consulta realizada: Hola, estoy tejiendo este chal y me surge esta duda: chal fila 2=LR, donde dice hacer en los 2 pts finales 1 HEB, 1 d., dejar caer la HEB, 1 d. Para hacerlo se necesitan 3 pts finales porque con 2 es imposible, como haces 2 d + dejar caer la HEB ?? Gracias y un saludo.

DROPS Design 27.01.2016 kl. 09:07:

Hola Rosa, he mandado la consulta al departamento de diseño por si es necesario hacer algún cambio. Se trata efectivamente de 2 pts + 1 HEB donde dice: "cuando queden 2 pts"

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