DROPS / 161 / 35

Summer Tide by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS shawl in garter st with stripes in ”Fabel”.

DROPS design: Pattern no fa-289
Yarn group A
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Measurements: Width at the top: 140 cm Length in the middle: 70 cm
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
150 g colour no 340, blue lagoon
100 g colour no 100, off white
100 g colour no 914, shoreline

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4 mm – or size needed to get 21 sts x 40 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 2.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 2.50 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

STRIPES:
Work pattern in garter st as follows:
2 ridges blue lagoon, * 7 ridges off white, 2 ridges blue lagoon *, repeat from *-* 1 more time. 6 ridges off white, 2 ridges shoreline, 6 ridges off white, 2 ridges blue lagoon, 3 ridges off white, 3 ridges blue lagoon, 3 ridges off white, 3 ridges shoreline, 3 ridges off white, 3 ridges shoreline, 8 ridges off white, 10 ridges shoreline, 3 ridges off white, 3 ridges shoreline, 6 ridges blue lagoon, 1 ridge shoreline, 2 ridges off white, 6 ridges shoreline, 2 ridges blue lagoon, 2 ridges off white, 4 ridges blue lagoon, 2 ridges shoreline, 2 ridges off white, 2 ridges shoreline, 6 ridges blue lagoon, 6 ridges shoreline.
Continue with blue lagoon until finished measurements.

TIP FOR CHANGING YARN:
When changing colour with shoreline/blue lagoon and off white, cut the coloured strand and fasten it in the section with the same colour. This is done so that the coloured strand is not visible in the sections with off white.
Off white is twisted with the other coloured strand when the 2nd st before 3rd marker is worked (seen from RS). Repeat this twist of strands on every row from RS. Strand in off white will then follow upwards in piece to avoid cutting the strand every time you change to/from off white.

WAVE EDGE:
* K 1, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* and finish with K 1.
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SHAWL:
Worked top down in garter st, back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the sts.
Cast on 9 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with off white. Work 3 sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, K 2 in each of the next 3 sts, 3 sts in garter st = 12 sts. Work 3 sts in garter st, K 2 in next st, insert a marker between these 2 sts and 1 marker after last st, * K 1, insert a marker *, repeat from *-* 3 more times, K 1, 3 sts in garter st = 13 sts. There are now 6 markers in the piece. Continue in garter st back and forth over all sts, AT THE SAME TIME inc with 1 YO alternately before and after every marker on every other row from RS, i.e. on first inc, make 1 YO before markers, on second inc, make 1 YO after markers – on next row K YO to make a hole (= 6 sts inc every other row from RS). Continue inc until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When 7 ridges in off white have been worked, work next row until 2 sts remain before the 3rd marker wihile working STRIPES - see explanation above. NOTE: Change colour in this st - read TIP FOR CHANGING YARN. When piece measures 69 cm along the middle, work WAVE EDGE – see explanation above. Cast off sts and YOs with K.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 161-35) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (28)

Miriam 27.04.2019 - 13:48:

Buongiorno, grazie mille per a risposta.E buon lavoro anche a voi...vi farò sapere.

Miriam 27.04.2019 - 12:51:

Buongiorno scusate se mi ripropongo ... non ho ricevuto nessuna risposta alla mia domanda fatta più di un mese fa. Dove ho sbagliato???? in anticipo grazie.

DROPS Design 27.04.2019 kl. 13:31:

Buongiorno Miriam, non ha fatto nessun errore, probabilmente tra le tante richieste la sua ci è sfuggita. Purtroppo non possiamo darle un aiuto così personalizzato, tenga conto che sicuramente usando 3 colori la quantità di filato è in eccesso, in termini di metratura, non di gomitoli, ma non siamo in grado di fornirle la metratura precisa. Buon lavoro!

Miriam 25.03.2019 - 09:26:

Buongiorno innanzitutto complimenti per il modello. Strepitoso . Una mia amica mi ha chiesto di farle questo scialle con del filato acquistato da lei tempo fa : il totale della metratura risulta 1050 metri con la stessa tensione. Nella spiegazione la metratura del filato da voi usato è maggiore e la mia domanda è: è stato usato tutto o invece facendo dei vari cambi di colore avete raggiunto la misura desiderata ne avete usato una quantità minore ? Posso realizzarlo con 1050 m.?

DROPS Design 27.04.2019 kl. 13:56:

Buongiorno Miriam, si ricordi di metterlo come question e non come comment, altrimenti non vediamo la sua richiesta. Purtroppo non possiamo darle un aiuto così personalizzato, tenga conto che sicuramente usando 3 colori la quantità di filato è in eccesso, in termini di metratura, non di gomitoli, ma non siamo in grado di fornirle la metratura precisa. Buon lavoro!

Mia Merethe Bye 18.06.2018 - 10:19:

Hei. hvordan øke med kast mellom merketråder? i oppskriften står det at man skal øke på hver side? men merketråden er jo mellom masker, der blir jo økingen VED merketråd? MVh Mia Merethe

DROPS Design 19.06.2018 kl. 07:58:

Hei Mia Merethe. Du øker vekselsvis rett før eller rett etter hvert merke på annenhver pinne fra retten – og du øker ved å lage kast. Altså, du strikker til du kommer til et merke, lager 1 kast før du flytter merket over på høyre pinne. Neste gang du kommer til et merke lager du 1 kast før du flytter merket over på høyre pinnen. Slik fortsetter du ut pinnen. Når det økes neste gang strikker du til merket, flytter merket over på høyre pinnen før du lager 1 kast. Dette gjentar du ut resten av pinnen. God fornøyelse

Kirsten Asmussen 05.06.2018 - 11:34:

Hej Dropsteam. Når jeg tager 6 m ud på hver anden pind, former strikken en fuld cirkel - er det meningen? På billedet er sjalet ikke en fuld cirkel. Venlig hilsen Kirsten

DROPS Design 06.06.2018 kl. 15:23:

Hej Kirsten, Hvis du overholder strikkefastheden får du samme form på sjalet som du ser på billedet, men formen kan du nok først se når du har strikket lidt flere pinde. God fornøjelse!

Husson 06.02.2018 - 10:05:

Merci.

Husson 05.02.2018 - 21:17:

Bonsoir je suis entrain de tricoter ce châle. Magnifique modèle. Une question ? Est ce normal que le nombre de mailles de chaque cotés (extrémités) soit différent de celui sur les 5 autres parties. Celles où on réalise les augmentations. Merci de votre réponse.

DROPS Design 06.02.2018 kl. 08:50:

Bonjour Mme Husson, on augmente d'abord tous les 2 rangs avant chaque marqueur puis 2 rangs plus haut après chaque marqueur. Sur 4 rangs, vous aurez le même nombre de mailles avant le 1er marqueur et après le dernier marqueur, et le même nombre de mailles entre chacun des marqueurs. Bon tricot!

Francine Bibeau 15.08.2017 - 04:08:

Châle Edlothia je cherche le modèle de ce chale ....

DROPS Design 18.08.2017 kl. 20:22:

Bonjour Francine, vous référez au chàle Ethiopia? Il n'est pas un châle du DROPS. Vous pourriez le chercher en Ravelry.

Liz 27.06.2017 - 17:11:

Hallo, ich bin mir nicht ganz sicher, wann die Zunahmen gemacht werden. 1. Reihe vor d. Markierern, 5. Reihe danach, 9. Reihe vor, 13. Reihe nach usw. ODER 1. Reihe vor, 3. Reihe nach, 5. Reihe vor, 7. Reihe nach usw.? Ich tendiere zur ersten Version. Gruß Liz

DROPS Design 27.06.2017 kl. 18:37:

Liebe Liz, bei der 1. Zunahme wird es vor allen Markierern zugenommen, bei der 2. Zunahmen wird es nach allen Markierern, bei der 3. Zunahmen vor allen Markierern, bei 4. Zunahmen nach allen Markierern usw. (es wird bei jeder 2. Reihe zugenommen, dh jede Hinreihe). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Birte 16.06.2015 - 21:39:

Hallo, habe mir die Videos angesehen. Ich komme allerdings immer noch nicht mit den Maschenmarkieren klar. Meine Markieren muss ich im gestrickten einsetzen. Wie mache ich das ? Gruss Birte

DROPS Design 18.06.2015 kl. 22:37:

Im Video haben Sie ja gesehen, wie so ein Maschenmarkierer funktioniert. Sie stricken also einfach bis zu der Stelle, an der der Markierer erscheinen soll, und setzen ihn dort auf die Nadel. Sie können statt einem Maschenmarkierer wie im Video auch einfach einen kurzen Faden nehmen, den Sie zwischen den Maschen einhängen. Wenn Sie wie hier die 2 M gestrickt haben, zwischen die der Markierer soll, nehmen Sie einfach die erste auf der rechten Nadel wieder auf die linke Nadel, setzten den Markierer auf die rechte Nadel und heben die eine gestrickte Masche von der linken auf die rechte Nadel zurück.

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