DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 161-5
DROPS design: Pattern no ks-100
Yarn group A
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Measurements: Length: approx. 166 cm Width: approx. 26 cm
Materials:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
75 g colour no 07, light steel blue

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in pattern = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm – for wave edge in stocking st.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.
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SHAWL:
Worked back and forth in 2 parts - from the side and in towards the middle, and sewn tog when finished. Loosely cast on 126 sts on needle size 4 mm with Kid-Silk. Then work 1 ridges in GARTER ST – see explanation above, then work in stocking st for 2 cm with 3 sts in garter st in each side of piece. On next row from RS, K all sts tog 2 by 2 = 63 sts. Work in stocking st with 3 sts in garter st in each side until piece measures 4 cm, adjust so that next row is worked from RS.
Switch to needle size 3 mm and work according to diagram as follows: A.1 (= 10 sts), A.2 over the next 40 sts (= 5 times), finish with A.3 (= 13 sts). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION Continue like this until piece measures approx. 83 cm, adjust after a whole repetition vertically. Work 1 ridge and slip sts on a stitch holder.
Knit another part the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the 2 parts tog with grafting/kitchener stitches to make the seam invisible.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = K from WS
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = K 2 twisted tog
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 3 tog
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (15)

country flag Francine wrote:

Bonjour, Lorsque je tricote le rang 7 de A3 j'ai 14 m, est ce que c'est normal ? Merci pour la réponse ! Francine

23.02.2024 - 14:33

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Francine, non vous devez avoir 13 mailes dans A.3, vérifiez bien que vous avez bien 8 mailles dans chaque A.2 et 10 mailles dans A.1 sur ce rang, changez vos marqueurs au rang suivant sur l'envers, pour bien les placer avec le bon nombre de mailles par motif pour préparer le rang suivant, le nombre de mailles par motif doit toujours être le bon même s'il apparaît un décalage sur l'endroit en raison des jetés/diminutions qui se compensent sur toute la largeur. Bon tricot!

23.02.2024 - 15:39

country flag Elisabeth Augustsson wrote:

Jag får inte mönstret att stämma. A1 blir 11 maskor på första varvet (1 maska minskning 2 maskor ökning dvs 10+1=11) istället för 10 som det står. A3 blir 12 maskor på första varvet (3 maskor miskning och 2 maskor ökning dvs 13-1=12) istället för 13 som det står. Ska det vara så? Även på senare räta varv blir det inte 10 maskor i A1 och inte 13 maskor i A3. A2 stämmer däremot, där är det alltid 8 maskor. Är det fel på mönstret eller är det jag som missat något?

01.01.2020 - 11:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Det antalet maskor som står längst ner är det antal du har innan du börjar med ökningarna och minskningarna på varvet så de siffrorna stämmer inte alltid högre upp i diagrammet, men det totala antalet maskor ska alltid vara 63 när du stickar diagrammen. Mvh DROPS Design

29.01.2020 - 11:55

country flag Monika wrote:

Können die 3 Maschen rechts zusammenstricken auch folgendermaßen gestrickt werden: entweder 1 Masche abheben, 2 Maschen rechts zusammenstricken, abgehobene Masche überziehen oder 2 Maschen abheben, 1 Masche rechts stricken, abgehobene Maschen überziehen?

10.11.2019 - 11:09

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Monika, das Lochmuster würde denn etwas unterschiedlich aussehen, gerne können Sie beide Technik in einer Maschenprobe versuchen, und dann entscheiden, welche Sie lieber haben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.11.2019 - 10:49

country flag Dominique REGNAULT wrote:

Bjr Pourquoi tricoter l'étole en 2 parties ? Ne serait pas plus simple de tricoter 126 m pour éviter une couture ? Merci d'avance pour votre réponse

05.10.2019 - 09:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Regnault, on tricote l'écharpe en 2 parties pour que les deux extrémités soient identiques. Bon tricot!

07.10.2019 - 08:47

country flag Claire Daoust wrote:

Bonjour, lorsque je fais le rang 1, A1, j'arrive à 11 mailles au lieu de 10. 3 mailles endroit, 2 m. ensemble, jeté, 3 m. endroit, jeté, 2 m. endroit. = 11 mailles. Où est l'erreur ? Merci

03.08.2019 - 01:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Claire. Aucune erreur. La maille en plus compense 1 m de moins dans le diagramme A.3. Le nombre de mailles s’ajuste à fur et mesure. Bon tricote!

03.08.2019 - 18:28

country flag Undine Bogun wrote:

Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zu den Rückreihen. Wenn ich A.1 in der ersten Hinreihe stricke habe ich 11 Maschen auf der Nadel bei A.3 12 Maschen. Wie komme ich in den Rückreihen wieder auf 10 (A.1) bzw. 13 Maschen (A.3)? Viele Grüße Undine Bogun

26.10.2016 - 12:17

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Bogun, es passiert wegen die 2 Umschläge in A.1 (und das doppelte Abnahme in A.2), wenn Sie die Rück-R stricken, können Sie die Markierung neuanstellen, so daß Sie immer die richtige Maschenanzahl in jedem Rapport haben.

26.10.2016 - 14:52

country flag Maureen wrote:

You say that a circular needle is required to knit the frilled edge, where are the instructions for this, they are not on this pattern? Thank you Maureen

12.01.2016 - 17:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Maureen, you cast on sts with the circular needle 4 mm and change to needle size 3 mm after 4 cm for the edge. Happy knitting!

13.01.2016 - 10:28

country flag Marie-Josée Gaudette wrote:

It's written that we need CIRCULAR Needle size 4 mm / US 6 – for wave edge in stockinette st. But where are those instructions for that edge ? Il est mentionné que nous avons besoin d'AIGUILLE CIRCULAIRE DROPS n°4 – pour la bordure ondulée en jersey. Je ne vois nul part dans les explications ce qu'il faut faire pour cette bordure.

12.12.2015 - 19:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Gaudette, l'écharpe se tricote en 2 parties en commençant par les extrémités. La bordure ondulée consiste à tricoter 1 côte mousse, puis en jersey (en diminuant à 2 cm), avant de continuer avec l'aig. circulaire 3. Bon tricot!

14.12.2015 - 09:55

Florence wrote:

Stitch count seems a bit of a mess... Cast on 126 stitches, incuding 2* 3 garterstitches leaves 120 stitches for the center. Knit all stitches together (I am thinking the center stitches because you keep on knitting 3 garterstitches on each side) i.e 120 stitches together. That leaves me with 120/2 = 60 + 3 + 3 = 66 stitches. You say 63 stitches... So now I have to get rid of 3 stitches

07.10.2015 - 15:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Florence, you start with 126 sts and K2 tog accross on next row from RS => 63 sts (126/2=63). Work then diagram: A.1 (= 10 sts, including 3 sts in garter st), repeat the 8 sts in A.2 a total of 5 times (= over the next 40 sts), and finish with A.3 (= 13 sts including the 3 sts in garter st). Happy knitting!

07.10.2015 - 16:13

country flag Malene wrote:

Inden man begynder at strikke mønstret står ser, at man skal sørge for, at næste pind strikkes fra retsiden. Det kan jeg bare ikke få til at gå op. Når jeg kigger på mønstret, giver det for mig bedre mening, hvis jeg strikker første pind i mønstret fra vrangsiden, således at jeg på første pind med mønster strikker 3 ret, to vrang, to ret og vrang hele vejen til 7. sidste maske, hvor jeg strikker to ret, to vrang og tre ret. Misforstår jeg opskriften?

20.07.2015 - 18:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Malene, Ja du begynder altid med at strikke i nederste højre hjørne af diagrammet (og så hver m i samme rækkefølge som du strikker dem), så giver det sikkert bedre mening. God fornøjelse!

29.07.2015 - 13:08