DROPS Extra / 0-973

Daniel by DROPS Design

Crochet hat for men, with brim and stripes in DROPS Andes. Size 3 years - XL

Tags: hats, headwear, stripes,
DROPS design: Pattern no an-019
Yarn group E
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Size: 3/5years – 6/9years – 10/14years – S/M – L/XL
Head circumference: 50/52 – 52/54 – 54/56 – 58 – 60 cm

Materials:
DROPS ANDES from Garnstudio
100 g colour no 6928, royal blue
100 g colour no 8112, ice blue
100 g colour no 1101, white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 8 mm – or size needed to get 9 tr/dc = width 10 cm.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.00 £ /100g
DROPS Andes uni colour DROPS Andes uni colour 3.00 £ /100g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Andes mix DROPS Andes mix 3.20 £ /100g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc on round with 1 ch. Finish with 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round.
Replace first tr on a tr round with 3 ch. Finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.

STRIPES:
Work as follows: * 1 round dc in white, 1 round dc in ice blue, 1 round dc in royal blue *, repeat from *-*.

CROCHET TIP:
Switch colour before last sl st on round to make a nice transition.

DECREASE TIP:
* Insert hook in next st, get yarn *, repeat from *-* one more time, make a YO and pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook.
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HAT:
Worked top down. Crochet 4 ch on hook size 8 mm and royal blue, form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work 10-10-10-12-12 tr in ch-ring - READ CROCHET INFO.
ROUND 2: * 1 tr in first tr, 2 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 15-15-15-18-18 tr.
ROUND 3: * 1 tr in first tr, 2 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 tr in last tr = 22-22-22-27-27 tr.
ROUND 4: * 1 tr in first tr, 2 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 33-33-33-40-40 tr.
ROUND 5: Work 1 tr in every tr while AT THE SAME TIME inc 6-8-10-5-8 tr evenly = 39-41-43-45-48 tr. Inc are now done and continue in the round with dc and STRIPES - see explanation above and read CROCHET TIP. Work until piece measures approx. 16-18-20-21-22 cm – adjust so that last round is with royal blue. Work one more round with royal blue and then fasten off.

BRIM:
Work a brim mid front of hat with royal blue. Work 1 dc in each of the middle 18-18-20-20-22 dc. Turn piece, work 1 ch, work the first 2 dc tog – READ DECREASE TIP, work 1 dc in every dc until 2 dc remain, work the last 2 dc tog = 16-16-18-18-20 dc. Turn piece, work 1 ch, work the first 2 dc tog, work 1 dc in every dc until 2 dc remain, work the last 2 dc tog = 14-14-16-16-18 fm. Fasten off.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-973) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (13)

Morin 05.12.2019 - 23:19:

Bonjour, Je suis en train de crocheter ce bonnet mais je constate qu'une fois avoir fait les augmentations en brides et en passant en MS mon rond gondole un peu. Auriez-vous des conseils pour éviter ceci ? Ou est-ce normal ? Merci.

DROPS Design 06.12.2019 kl. 08:30:

Bonjour Mme Morin, essayez de bien conserver la bonne tension, vos mailles serrées doivent être aussi larges que vos brides précédentes (= 9 brides = 9 mailles serrées = 10 cm de large). Bon crochet!

Mª Del Carmen 06.12.2018 - 15:31:

Buenas tardes. Qué cantidad de ovillos necesitaré para la talla más grande? Gracias por su atención. Un saludo.

DROPS Design 16.12.2018 kl. 22:45:

Hola MªDelCarmen. Los ovillos de Andes son de 100 gr, es decir, necesitarías 1 ovillo de cada calidad.

Marta 15.01.2016 - 12:53:

Buongiorno, vorrei s sapere quanta lana mi occorre se volessi fare il berretto di un solo colore. Grazie. Marta

DROPS Design 20.01.2016 kl. 13:32:

Buongiorno Marta, non possiamo darle una risposta certa, perchè il modello è progettato a strisce di diverso colore, però dovrebbero bastare 2 gomitoli. Buon lavoro!

Maarit 30.11.2015 - 17:55:

Millä silmukoilla pipo on tehty? Ohjeessa mielestäni ristiriitaisuuksia. Kuvan pipo mielestäni tehty ks ja ohjeessa puhutaan pylväistä kunnes lieri pitäisi taas tehdä kiinteisiin silmukoihin.

DROPS Design 02.12.2015 kl. 15:55:

Myssyn päälaki virkataan aluksi pylväin ja lisäyksin. Viidennen kerroksen jälkeen jatketaan virkkaamalla kiinteitä silmukoita. Lieri virkataan myös kiintein silmukoin.

Suzie 02.02.2015 - 04:22:

Merci pour la réponse j'ai maintenant compris. Maintenant je voudrais savoir si la laine est disponible au Québec sur un site français pour éviter de payer la douane....

DROPS Design 02.02.2015 kl. 13:18:

Bonjour Suzie, cliquez ici pour trouver la liste des distributeurs au Canada. Bon crochet!

Suzie 27.01.2015 - 21:17:

Bonjour, J'ai lu ce patron plusieurs fois et je ne comprends pas. Il est écrit que le point crochet pour ce bonnet se fait en brides (B) mais par contre que les rayures en couleurs contrastantes se font en mailles serrées...??? Pourriez-vous m'éclairer S.V.

DROPS Design 28.01.2015 kl. 10:44:

Bonjour Suzie, c'est exact, le bonnet se commence en brides, et quand on a le bon nombre de mailles, on continue en ms, en suivant les rayures. Bon crochet!

Hanne 10.12.2014 - 22:51:

In der Anleitung ist für die Maschenprobe angegeben, dass 9 fM=10cm. Für Größe S/M werden im Umfang lt. Anleitung 45 fM gehäkelt. Umgerechnet mit Hilfe drr Maschenprobe entspricht das 50cm und so groß bzw klein ist meine Mütze jetzt auch. Leider weit entfernt von den angestrebten und in der Anleitung angegebenen 56-58 cm. Wo kann der Fehler liegen? Vielen Dank für Ihre Hilfe.

DROPS Design 10.12.2014 kl. 23:50:

Sie haben keinen Fehler gemacht. Die Mützen sind in der Regel etwas enger als der Kopfumfang, dem sie passen sollen. So auch bei dieser Mütze, denn sonst würde sie zu locker sitzen, die Wolle (Andes) gibt ja noch etwas nach. Wenn die Mütze aber zu eng sein sollte, können Sie entweder die größere Größe häkeln oder einfach in der 5. Rd noch ein paar mehr M zunehmen.

Carmen 23.04.2014 - 16:32:

Buen día. La información que dan, les puede ir bien a muchas personas, pero otras cómo yó, preferimos los gráficos, pués con una sola mirada lo entendemos todo. Les agradecería tubieran éste comentarío en cuenta, pués me facilitarían mucho la labor. Un saludo. Carmen

VERGEZ 19.02.2014 - 17:25:

Bonjour, Merci de votre mail mais ça ne répond pas à ma question ! Je vais faire tricoter un bonnet et je n'y connais rien en laine. Voici ma question : je voudrais faire tricoter un bonnet à grosses cotes (pas du crochet) en pure laine ou laine + alpaga. Quelle est votre laine la plus élastique afin que le bonnet ne se détende pas ? Merci.

DROPS Design 19.02.2014 kl. 17:50:

Bonjour Mme Vergez, je vous invite à contacter un de nos détaillants par mail ou téléphone (cf liste pour leurs coordonnées), vous pourrez ainsi lui exposer ce que vous souhaitez et il pourra vous renseigner de façon plus personnelle. Bon tricot!

VERGEZ 18.02.2014 - 19:57:

Pour la réalisation d'un bonnet quelle laine (pure laine) me conseillez vous afin que le bonnet reste bien élastique et ne se détende pas ? Merci. Cordialement,

DROPS Design 19.02.2014 kl. 09:31:

Bonjour Mme Vergez, vous trouverez ici toutes nos laines classées par groupe (échantillon), et des conseils pour bien prendre soin de vos laines. À l'aide du moteur de recherches, vous pourrez ensuite trouver des modèles de bonnet correspondant à chaque groupe de fil à tricoter. Bon crochet!

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