DROPS / 147 / 6

Sunny by DROPS Design

DROPS top - tunika s krátkými raglánovými rukávy a ažurovým vzorem pletená z příze "Muskat".

DROPS design: model č. r-625
Skupina přízí: B
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Velikost: S – M/L – XL – XXL – XXXL

Materiál: DROPS MUSKAT firmy Garnstudio
350-400-450-450-500 g, barva č.30, žlutá

DROPS KRUHOVÉ JEHLICE (40 a 80 cm) č.4 – nebo velikosti potřebné k upletení zkušebního vzorku o rozměrech 21 ok x 28 řad lícovým žerzejem = 10 x 10 cm.

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Nejste si jistí, kterou zvolit velikost? Třeba by vám pomohla informace, že modelka na obrázku je vysoká asi 170 cm a nosí velikost S nebo M. Pokud chcete plést/háčkovat pulovr, kabátek, šaty nebo podobný kousek, najdete dole pod návodem nákres s jednotlivými mírami v cm.

100% bavlna
od 60.00 Kč /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 60.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
Jehlice a háčky
Přízi na tento model můžete mít už za 420Kč. Více zde.

Návod

VROUBKOVÝ VZOR:
Pleteme střídavě 1 kruhovou řadu hladce, 1 obrace. 1 vroubek = 2 kruhové řady.

AŽUROVÝ VZOR:
Viz schéma A.1.

TIP- UJÍMÁNÍ:
Ujímáme v lícových řadách, začínáme 3 oka před značkou: 2 oka spleteme hladce, 2 oka upleteme hladce (značka leží mezi těmito oky), 1 oko sejmeme hladce, 1 upleteme hladce a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme.

TIP:
Pokud při pletení hodně utahujete a rozměry vašeho úpletu neodpovídají údajům ze zkušebního vzorku (tj. máte-li úplet hustší – vyšší počet řad na 10 cm výšky pleteniny), může být raglánový průramek moc těsný. Tomu lze předejít tím, že mezi raglánovým ujímáním budete plést vždy v pravidelných rozestupech 1 řadu navíc, bez ujímání.
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TOP - TUNIKA

Pleteme v kruhových řadách na kruhové jehlici.
Na kruhovou jehlici č.4 nahodíme přízí Muskat 176-204-232-260-288 ok a upleteme 3 vroubky vroubkovým vzorem – viz výše; poté pokračujeme lícovým žerzejem. Označíme si boky – do pleteniny vložíme 2 značky, vždy po 88-102-116-130-144 okách. Ve výši 7 cm ujmeme na obou stranách obou značek po 1 oku a toto ujímání opakujeme vždy po 3 cm výšky pleteniny ještě 5x (celkem ujímáme 6x) = 152-180-208-236-264 ok. Ve výši 28 cm přidáme na obou stranách obou značek po 1 oku a přidávání opakujeme vždy po 5-5-5,5-5,5-6 cm výšky pleteniny ještě 3x (celkem přidáváme 4x) = 168-196-224-252-280 ok. Ve výši 44-45-46-47-48-49 cm pleteme 8 ok na každé straně (boku) vroubkovým vzorem (= 4 oka na každé straně každé značky), ostatní oka pleteme jako dosud. Když takto upleteme nad každými 8 oky na bocích 4 kruhové řady vroubkovým vzorem, uzavřeme tato oka pro průramky = 152-180-208-236-264 ok. Díl nyní měří asi 45-46-47-48-49 cm.

SEDLO:
Následující kruhovou řadu pleteme takto:
Oka předního dílu upleteme lícovým žerzejem, nad průramkem nahodíme 48-48-55-55-62 nových ok, pak upleteme lícovým žerzejem oka zadního dílu a nad druhým průramkem nahodíme 48-48-55-55-62 nových ok = 248-276-318-346-388 ok. Upleteme 3 kruhové řady nad všemi oky, takto: nad středními 44-44-51-51-58 novými oky rukávu pleteme vroubkovým vzorem, zbylá oka pleteme lícovým žerzejem. Po obou stranách obou rukávů (tj. nových ok) umístíme značku (= 4 nové značky v kruhové řadě).
NEŽ BUDETE PLÉST DÁL, PŘEČTĚTE SI CELÝ NÁSLEDUJÍCÍ POPIS!
Nyní pleteme takto: 2 oka hladce, 2 obrace, vzor A.1 nad následujícími 70-84-98-112-126 oky, 4 hladce (značka leží uprostřed těchto ok), 2 obrace, vzor A.1 nad dalšími 42-42-49-49-56 oky, 4 hladce (značka leží uprostřed těchto ok), 2 obrace, vzor A.1 nad následujícími 70-84-98-112-126 oky, 4 hladce (značka leží uprostřed těchto ok), 2 obrace, vzor A.1 nad dalšími 42-42-49-49-56 oky, 2 hladce (značka leží za těmito oky).
V následující kruhové řadě začneme ujímat raglán, a to na všech 4 místech, kde se stýkají rukávy s trupem (tj. ujímáme celkem 8x v 1 kruhové řadě) – viz TIP a TIP - UJÍMÁNÍ!
Ujímání opakujeme ještě 2-3-2-3-2x v každé 4. kruhové řadě a 12-11-15-14-18x v každé 2. kruhové řadě (ujímáme celkem 15-15-18-18-21x). V případě potřeby převedeme pleteninu na kratší kruhovou jehlici. Po dokončení ujímání zůstává v kruhové řadě 128-156-174-202-220 ok. Upleteme 2 vroubky vroubkovým vzorem a SOUČASNĚ v 1. kruhové řadě ujmeme rovnoměrně 0-10-16-28-34 ok = 128-146-158-174-186 ok. Pak všechna oka uzavřeme.

Schéma

= hladce
= obrace
= 2 oka spleteme hladce
= 1 oko sejmeme hladce, 1 upleteme hladce a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme
= 1x nahodíme mezi 2 oky


Potřebujete poradit s tímto návodem?

Děkujeme, že jste si vybrali návod DROPS Design. Zakládáme si na tom, že dáváme k dispozici návody ověřené a snadno srozumitelné. Všechny návody jsou přeložené z norského originálu a tak si můžete kdykoli srovnat rozměry a počty s původním návodem (DROPS 147-6) .

Máte s návodem potíže? Níže najdete seznam odkazů, které vám pomohou dokončit vaše dílo co nejdříve - nebo se třeba přiučit něco nového.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

nahoru

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

nahoru

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

nahoru

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

nahoru

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

nahoru

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

nahoru

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

nahoru

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

nahoru

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

nahoru

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

nahoru

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

nahoru

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

nahoru

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

nahoru

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

nahoru

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

nahoru

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

nahoru

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

nahoru

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

nahoru

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

nahoru

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Komentáře / Otázky (52)

Patricia Schwartz 02.06.2020 - 22:21:

I have placed markers at the beginning of the round and 102stitches apart.( Size med). When beginning the garter section 4 stitches each side of marker on each side . The. Problem is my first marker is at the beginning of my round . To do 4 stitches before an after marker means I would be knitting the entire round finishing up with last 4 stitches garter before starting the next round. When binding these stitches off creates a gap . What did I do wrong?

DROPS Design 03.06.2020 kl. 07:06:

Dear Mrs Schwartz, work the cast off row for armhole as follows: cast off the first 4 sts on round (the first 4 sts in garter st of the round), work until 4 sts remain before next marker, cast off the next 8 sts (= 4 sts before + 4 sts after marker), work until 4 sts remain before end of round, cast off the last 4 sts, cut the yarn and pull it through the last st. Join then yarn again on front piece to work yoke. Happy knitting!

Sabine 02.06.2020 - 18:41:

Hallo, ich möchte diese Tunika mit einem anderen Garn stricken. Mein Garn ist von Lana Grossa und heißt Summer Lace. Es besteht zu 97 % aus Baumwolle und zu 3 % aus Polyester bei einer Lauflänge von 195 m auf 50 g. 25 M und 32 R sollen 10 x 10 cm ergeben. Kann ich dieses Garn verwenden? Wie rechne ich die Maschenzahl um? Vielen Dank für Ihre Unterstützung. Mit freundlichen Grüßen Sabine

DROPS Design 03.06.2020 kl. 06:39:

Liebe Sabine, wir bitten um Verständnis, dass wir nicht Produkte unserer Konkurrenz empfehlen können und dass der Kauf des Materials uns hilft, weiterhin kostenlose Anleitungen zur Verfügung stellen zu können.

Tracey 29.01.2020 - 15:03:

Where do I put markers after complete 6 garter rows. I’m doing 5th size do I put marker in the beg Continue in stockinette st. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Insert 2 markers in the piece, 88-102-116-130-144 sts apart. When piece measures 7 cm / 2¾'', dec 1 st on each side of markers, repeat dec every 3 cm / 1 1/8'' 5 more times (6 dec in total) = 152-180-208-236-264 sts.

DROPS Design 29.01.2020 kl. 15:54:

Dear Tracey, in 5th size insert 1 marker at the beg of the round and the other marker after 144 sts. Happy knitting!

Pamela Thomas 17.08.2015 - 03:18:

Good day, I am making this sweater in size M (the second in the stitch count), and I have now had to rip it back multiple times trying to get it to work. If I'm suppose to have 276 stitches when starting the lace pattern, why does the instruction only cover 266 of those stitches. (84+4+42+4+84+42+2=266) I can only assume that this discrepancy is the cause of the pattern not lining up properly with the sleeves. Help?

DROPS Design 17.08.2015 kl. 09:48:

Dear Mrs Thomas, work the 276 sts as follows: K 2, P 2, A.1 over the next 84 sts, K 4 (marker is in the middle of these 4 sts), P 2, A.1 over the next 42 sts, K 4 (marker is in the middle of these 4 sts), P 2, A.1 over the next 84 sts, K 4 (marker is in the middle of these 4 sts), P 2, A.1 over the next 42 sts, K 2 (marker is after these sts). Happy knitting!

Kirsten 13.07.2014 - 12:34:

Blusen får en meget stor halsåbning, hvis man følger opskriften. Der bør tages væsentlig flere masker ind på de sidste 4 omgange!

Olga Ivanova 30.07.2013 - 10:31:

Might be useful to mention that the required gauge is for stockinette in the round.

Nathalie Vergobbi 18.07.2013 - 20:11:

Bonjour, Le top ci me plait bcp,voilà,il y a 232 mailles en aiguilles circulaires,je divise en 2 ca fait 116 mailles +2(mailles lisieres),c bien ca?.

DROPS Design 19.07.2013 kl. 09:40:

C'est tout à fait ça, attention pour l'empiècement à bien recalculer pour tomber juste avec les manches/les diminutions. Bon tricot !

Nathalie Vergobbi 18.07.2013 - 20:04:

Bonjour, le top se peut se faire avec des aiguilles droites aussi?

DROPS Design 19.07.2013 kl. 09:38:

Bonjour Mme Vergobbi, vous pouvez tout à fait le tricoter en allers et retours si vous le souhaitez, il suffit de répartir les mailles. Attention toutefois à bien recompter pour l'empiècement avec les manches. Bon tricot !

Marielle Dame 14.06.2013 - 18:31:

Bonjour, Jee me demande pourquoi la photo nous montre un gilet avec une couture sur le côté, alors que vous dites de tricoter en rond. Étant donné que mes expériences de gilets tricotés en rond n'ont jamais été des réussites (le tricot semble toujours dévier d'un côté), ça aurait été intéressant d'avoir les explications pour le devant et le dos montés séparément. Y a-t'il une raison pour laquelle la photo ne correspond pas aux explications? J'apprécie beaucoup votre site et vos modèles.

DROPS Design 15.06.2013 kl. 09:41:

Bonjour Mme Dame, les stylistes ont décidé qu'il serait beaucoup plus beau tricoté en rond. Pour le tricoter en 2 parties, divisez le nombre de mailles en 2 pour le dos et le devant et ajoutez les m lis. Pensez à nos vidéos pour apprendre à tricoter en rond et n'hésitez pas à vous inscrire sur le forum DROPS pour une aide plus complète. Bon tricot!

Emily 22.05.2013 - 04:25:

How many needle can I use? When I make reglan, it is hard to go over sleeves because armhole bindoff is too short than a new sleeve so the bottom of armhole is pulling my work!

DROPS Design 22.05.2013 kl. 08:32:

Dear Emily, we are using 1 needle, it may be a bit tricky at the beg but after a couple of rows you will be more easy. You may use more needles if it's easier for you. This video below could help you to visualize how to do with only 1. Happy knitting!

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