DROPS / 142 / 18

Augusta by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with short sleeves and Norwegian pattern in BabyAlpaca Silk or Flora. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no BS-022
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
200-200-250-250-300-300 g colour no 6347, blue purple
50 g for all sizes in the following colours:
colour no 0100, off white
colour no 4314, grey purple
colour no 8903, black

Or use:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio
150-150-200-200-250-250g colour no 13, denim blue
50 g for all sizes in the following colours:
colour no 01, natur
colour no 09, amethyst
colour no 06, black

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 2.5 mm - or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 2 mm - for rib.
DROPS ANGULAR SILVER BUTTONS NO 534: 6-6-6-7-7-7 pieces

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 4.10 £ /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour 4.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.70£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Work entire pattern in stocking st.

KNITTING TIP 1:
When A.2 is worked, there will be 1 st at the end of row that do not fit the pattern. This st is worked in the pattern as first st in next repetition so that the pattern beg and ends the same way in each side towards mid front. NOTE: Do not dec in this st.

KNITTING TIP 2:
To avoid the garment loosing its elasticity when working pattern it is important that the threads are not too tight on the back of piece. If needed go up in needle size when working pattern if the pattern looks somewhat tight.
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BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 252-280-312-344-384-428 sts on circular needle size 2 mm with blue purple or denin blue. P 1 row from WS, work next row as follows from RS: 1 edge st in GARTER ST - see explanation above - * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain and finish with K 2 and 1 edge st in GARTER ST. Continue rib like this for 4 cm – adjust so that next row is worked from RS. Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm and K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 49-53-61-69-77-81 sts evenly = 203-227-251-275-307-347 sts. Work next row as follows from WS: 1 edge st in garter st, work diagram A.1 until 2 sts remain, finish with 1st st in A.1 (so that pattern beg and ends the same way in each side towards mid front) and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue the pattern like this. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue in stocking st with blue purple or denim blue. Insert 2 markers in the piece; 51-57-63-69-77-87 sts in from each side (= 101-113-125-137-153-173 sts between markers on back piece). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 8 cm, inc 1 st on each side of both markers (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm 3 more times = 219-243-267-291-323-363 sts. When piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm, cast off 8 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. 4 sts on each side of both markers) = 51-57-63-69-77-87 sts on each front piece and 101-113-125-137-153-173 sts on back piece. Put piece aside and work the sleeve edges.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 84-88-96-100-104-112 sts on double pointed needles size 2 mm with blue purple or denim blue. K 1 round, then work rib (= K 2/P 2) for 4 cm. Work next round as follows: Cast off 4 sts at beg of round, K until 4 sts remain and cast off these 4 sts = 76-80-88-92-96-104 sts. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve edge.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 355-387-427-459-499-555 sts. Work 2-2-4-4-4-6 rows in stocking st with blue purple or denim blue (1st row = RS), AT THE SAME TIME dec 29-27-33-31-37-42 sts evenly on last row (= from WS) = 326-360-394-428-462-513 sts. READ KNITTING TIP 1 and 2 and work as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, work pattern according to diagram A.2 (choose diagram for correct size) until 2 sts remain, finish with 1st st in A.2 and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue with pattern and dec until A.2 has been worked vertically (work until arrow for correct size) = 155-171-187-178-192-213 sts.

LEFT BAND:
Knit up from RS approx. 120 to 150 sts along left front piece on circular needle size 2 mm with blue purple or denim blue. P 1 row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly to 149-157-161-169-173-181 sts. Then work rib as follows (seen from RS): 1 edge st in garter st, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 4 sts remain, finish with K 2 and 2 edge sts in garter st at the bottom of body. When rib measures 3 cm, loosely cast off with K over K and P over P.

RIGHT BAND:
Work as left band but when band measures approx. 1 cm, cast off for 5-5-5-6-6-6 button holes evenly. The top and bottom button hole should be approx. 4 cm from edge. 1 button hole = work 2 sts tog and make 1 YO (casting off in 2 P sts will look more pretty seen from RS).

NECK EDGE:
Slip sts from yoke on circular needle size 2 mm and knit in addition up 8 new sts over each band (knit up from RS inside 1 edge st) = 171-187-203-194-208-229 sts. P 1 row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 23-31-43-26-32-49 sts evenly = 148-156-160-168-176-180 sts. Continue to work rib from RS as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain, finish with K 2 and 1 edge st in garter st. AT THE SAME TIME after 2 rows rib, work an elevation (in rib) at the back of neck as follows: Work until 17-19-21-23-25-27 sts remain on needle, turn, tighten thread and work until 17-19-21-23-25-27 sts remain in the other side, turn, tighten thread and work until 35-39-41-45-49-53 sts remain, turn, tighten thread and work until 35-39-41-45-49-53 sts remain in the other side, turn, tighten thread and work until 53-59-61-67-73-79 sts remain, turn, tighten thread and work until 53-59-61-67-73-79 sts remain in the other side, turn. Then continue with rib as before over all sts. AT THE SAME TIME when neck edge measures approx. 1½ cm at the front, cast off for 1 button hole over the others on right band. When neck edge measures 4 cm at the front, loosely cast off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew on buttons.

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Wrist warmers and hat – see design: 142-16
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Diagram

= off white / off white
= grey purple / denim blue
= blue purple / amethyst
= black / black
= K 2 tog with the colour currently being used (make sure that the pattern fits)


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 142-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (25)

Christel Felgendreher 09.03.2020 - 21:31:

Ich würde das Model Augusta 142-18 gerne von oben nach unten stricken. gibt es dafür eine ANLEITUNG ??

DROPS Design 10.03.2020 kl. 10:26:

Liebe Frau Felgendreher, siehe Antwort unten :)

Christel 09.03.2020 - 21:25:

Ich würde das Drops Model Augusta 142-18 gerne von oben nach unten stricken. Gibt es dafür auch eine Anleitung??

DROPS Design 10.03.2020 kl. 10:17:

Liebe Christel, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jedem Wunsch umrechnen, aber hier finden Sie Jacken, die von oben nach unten gestrickt werden, davon können Sie sich sicher inspierieren. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Pam 07.03.2019 - 14:44:

Hi. Thank you for your very quick response. I have done as you suggested and measured it against an existing cardigan. It is slightly smaller but it will be fine. Thanks for help. I love Drops yarn and use it for all my projects, especially colour work.

Pam Edmiston 07.03.2019 - 13:23:

I love knitting with Baby Alpaca Silk, probably my favourite yarn ever. I also love Augusta, very pretty little cardigan.....but the size seems wrong. My tension is fine but it just looks so small. I started knitting size 14/16. Looked and measured too small. Switched to 18/20 and it still looks and measured too small. Does the knitted fabric have lots of stretch of us it meant to be a very close fit?

DROPS Design 07.03.2019 kl. 14:04:

Dear Mrs Edmiston, measure a similar garment you have and like the shape and compare these measurements to the ones given in the chart, this is the best way to get the finished measurements as long as our tension is right. read more about sizing here. Happy knitting!

Mamieflo 20.05.2017 - 18:28:

J'ai tricoté ce pull il y a 4 ans, me suis lancée dans du jacquard, malheureusement il m'était un peu juste au niveau du jacquard car cela resserre un peu , je l'ai offert à ma première petite fille, un peu à regret car il me plaisait beaucoup

Susanne Riisgaard Rasmussen 11.11.2015 - 13:38:

Opskr. 142-18. Forstår ikke: strikketips: "når A2 strikkes vil der være 1 maske i slutningen..... denne maske strikkes ind i mønsteret som første maske i næste rapport - er det første maske i næste pind eller er det første maske på samme pind?????? kan ikke få det til at passe. ender med 4 m plus kantmaske i en ende og 5 m plus kantmaske i anden ende ): ): hjælp - hjælp.....

DROPS Design 26.11.2015 kl. 09:18:

Hej Susanne, jo, når du har strikket A2 har du 1 m tilbage og den strikker du ifølge 1.m i A2 så mønsteret bliver ens i begge sider mod midt foran. God fornøjelse!

Ingunn Flaaterud 31.08.2014 - 07:54:

Nydelig jakke! Finnes denne som vest, dvs. uten knapper/stolper?

Diana Ronsmans 08.05.2014 - 15:44:

"baby alpaca silk" :50 gr=167 m "drops lace"50 gr= 400 m.dit is bijna 3x meer. 200gr b.a.s.= hoeveel gr "drops lace?

DROPS Design 09.05.2014 kl. 08:41:

Drops Lace is een dun kantgaren, bedoeld voor fijn en licht doorzichtig werk. We adviseren dit garen niet voor Noors breiwerk zoals dit vestje.

Ellen 28.01.2014 - 21:31:

Det står : Fortsett med mønster og fellinger til A.2 er strikket ferdig i høyden . Fellingen?! skal det fyllast etter at ein har begynne med mønster då?

DROPS Design 29.01.2014 kl. 10:31:

Hej Ellen. Fellingerne kommer automatisk i diagrammet. F.eks. A.3 i str S/M/L i pind 10, 16, 18 osv. Se for din str/diagram.

Julie Hobson 15.01.2014 - 11:16:

Is it easy to make the sleeves longer in order to have a regular cardigan?

DROPS Design 15.01.2014 kl. 14:23:

Dear Mrs Hobson, you can calculate for long sleeves with the help of a similar pattern. Do not hesitate to request help from the store where you bought your yarn, or any knitting forum. Happy knitting!

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