DROPS / 117 / 43

Helena by DROPS Design

Short DROPS jacket with short sleeves knitted from side to side in 2 threads ”Alpaca”. Size XS - XXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no Z-425

Size: XS - S - M - L - XL – XXL
Measurements in charts may seem small, but the garment becomes very elastic so knit your usual size.
Materials: DROPS ALPACA
150-150-150-200-200-200 g colour no 501, light grey
150-150-150-200-200-200 g no 517, medium grey

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 5 mm – or size needed to get 17 sts x 34 rows in garter st with 2 threads Alpaca = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS Buffalo horn buttons no 535: 3 pcs.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 2.25 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 2.25 £ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 2.30 £ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
SHORTENED ROWS:
* Work row to first marker, turn, tighten thread and work return row, work row to second marker, turn, tighten thread and work return row, work all sts, turn and work return row *, repeat from *-*.
1 repeat = 2 rows at the top and 6 rows at the bottom.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on needle from the left side, in garter st, i.e. K all rows.
Cast on 75-78-82-85-88-92 sts on needle size 5 mm with 1 thread of each colour. K 4 rows on all sts (first row = RS). Insert 2 markers in piece from RS as follows:
First marker: after 47-49-52-54-56-59 sts Second marker: after a total of 57-60-64-67-70-74 sts
= 18 sts after the last marker = collar.
Continue with SHORTENED ROWS – see above – until piece measures 6-6.5
-7-7.5-8-8.5 cm at the top (= by neck) and approx 16-17.5-19-20.5-22-23.5 cm at bottom. Insert a marker at the top by neck – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Slip the bottom 30-32-34-36-38-40 sts on a stitch holder = 45-46-48-49-50-52 sts left on needle for sleeve. Continue with shortened rows as before (but now there are only 17-17-18-18-18-19 sts before first marker) until piece measures approx 7-7.5-8-8.5-9-9.5 cm from marker by neck and approx 21-22.5-24-25.5-27-28.5 cm at bottom (= over sleeve).
Slip sts on a new stitch holder and slip sts from the first stitch holder back on needle = 30-32-34-36-38-40 sts. Work garter st back and forth on these sts for 4-6-8-10-12-14 cm. Now slip all sts back on needle = 75-78-82-85-88-92 sts. Move marker from top of neck to where you are now, and now measure piece from here! Work shortened rows as before until piece measures approx 10-11-12-13-14-15 cm from marker by neck and approx 30-33-36-39-42-45 cm at bottom. Move marker from top of neck to where you are now, and now measure piece from here! Slip the bottom 30-32-34-36-38-40 sts on a stitch holder = 45-46-48-49-50-52 sts left on needle for sleeve. Continue with shortened rows as before until piece measures approx 7-7.5-8-8.5-9-9.5 cm from marker by neck and approx 21-22.5-24-25.5-27-28.5 cm at the bottom (= over sleeve).
Slip sts on a new stitch holder and slip sts from the previous stitch holder back on needle = 30-32-34-36-38-40 sts. Work garter st back and forth on these sts for 4-6-8-10-12-14 cm. Now slip all sts back on the same needle = 75-78-82-85-88-92 sts.
Move marker from top of neck to where you are now, and now measure piece from here! Continue with shortened rows on all sts until piece measures approx 5-5.5-6-6.5-7-7.5 cm from marker by neck and approx 15-16.5-18-19.5-21-22.5 cm at bottom. On next row from RS make 3 buttonholes as follows: * K9, K2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, K remaining sts on row. Work 3 rows garter st on all sts and cast off loosely.

ASSEMBLY: Sew on buttons.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 117-43) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (83)

Marion 13.10.2019 - 16:00:

Thank you for your earlier help. I've now reached the part where I need to slip stitches onto a new stitch holder and to slip stitches from first stitch holder back onto needle and to continue knitting garter stitch. Do I start with new yarn on the 32 stitches from the stitch holder (I'm making the second size) or do I continue with the working yarn which will make circle for the sleeve? - I can't see how this would work though.

Marion 13.10.2019 kl. 19:55:

I've continued knitting and now I've added all stitches back onto the needle the shape is now clear.

Marion 11.10.2019 - 23:39:

Help please - I am ready to slip stitches onto a stitch holder but I am confused as my working yarn is at the bottom end of the row and so I will not have the yarn to continue knitting the shortened rows. Do I need to join in new working yarn? Or do I knit the stitches before slipping them onto the stitch holder so the yarn is in the middle ready to knit the shortened rows?

DROPS Design 12.10.2019 kl. 01:20:

Dear Marion, it would be simpler (as less ends to weave in) to knit the stitches before you slip them on a stitch-holder, or a piece of yarn. Happy Knitting!

Annette 28.10.2018 - 12:43:

Hallo Liebes Drops-Team, ich verstehe nicht, wie ich oben 2 Reihen und unten 6 Reihen stricken kann. Bei meinen Versuchen wächst nur die obere Hälfte mit den verkürzten Reihen und unten wächst die Strickarbeit nicht. Was mache ich falsch ? Vielen Dank und liebe Grüße Annette

DROPS Design 29.10.2018 kl. 08:25:

Liebe Annette, bein den verkürzten Reihen stricken Sie: 2 Reihe über die Maschen bis zur 1. Markierung, 2 Reihe über die Maschen bis zur 2. Markierung und 2 Reihen über alle Maschen = Sie haben 6 Reihen über die ersten Maschen (= rechten Seite) und nur 2 Reihen über die letzten Maschen (= linken Seite) gestrickt. Diese 6 Reihe so wiederholen, Strickstück wächst mehr auf der rechten Seite (untere Kante der Jacke) als auf den linken Seite (obere Kante = am Hals). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Abbie 19.10.2017 - 22:35:

I have completed my first set of short rows and I’m rady to put my stitches on a stitch holder. Which is the top and which is the bottom? I’m not visualizing the sweater yet? And am I supposed to move my markers to new spots now, after I place my stitches on the stitch holder? Thanks for any help given!

DROPS Design 20.10.2017 kl. 09:11:

Dear Abbie, the bottom of the jacket is towards the longest side (where piece measures 16-23.5 cm, see size) and the top side is towards 1st makrer, where piece measures approx. 6-8.5 cm on the top towards neckline. Short rows are also worked on the sleeve cap, but there will be now only 17-19 sts before 1st marker. Happy knitting!

MaHahn 09.11.2016 - 18:43:

Alles klar, danke! Dass man so auf dem Schlauch stehen kann... ;-)

MaHahn 05.11.2016 - 09:25:

Danke für die Antwort, witzig, wenn man seinen Denkfehler erkennt :-) Habe aber noch eine Klemme im Kopf: habe vier Reihen gestrickt und bin jetzt wieder am Anfangsfaden. Um die Markierungsfäden zu setzen, fange ich wo an, zu zählen? Es kommt mir so vor, als müsste ich links zu zählen beginnen, wenn ich zuerst die linke Westenhälfte stricken will. Aber dann hätte das doch sicher dabeigestanden...? Verwirrung...

DROPS Design 07.11.2016 kl. 11:29:

Liebe MaHahn, die Markierungsfaden sollen Sie von der Vorderseite einsetzten, dh die Maschen von rechts nach links zählen: man strickt hier das linke Vorderteil, die ersten Maschen von der Vorderseite = unten, die letzten Maschen von der Vorderseite = oben am Hals (Kragen).

MaHahn 04.11.2016 - 01:01:

Wenn ich den zweiten Markierungsfaden gesetzt habe, drehe ich die Arbeit sofort um und beginne mit den verkürzten Reihen oder stricke ich die Reihe zu Ende und beginne dann erst mit der ersten verkürzten Reihe? Vielen Dank und Gruß, MaHahn

DROPS Design 04.11.2016 kl. 09:23:

Liebe MaHahn, die Markierungsfaden ziehen Sie ein, ohne die Maschen zu stricken, dann stricken Sie die verkürzte Reihe mit einer Hinreihe bis zum 1. Markierungsfaden.

Marion Martin 22.06.2016 - 21:20:

I want to make the 'short' jacket longer. If I were to add 10 stitches where on the instructions would these 10 stitches go. What numbers change by 10 Please. I have trouble with the short rows at all.

DROPS Design 23.06.2016 kl. 08:46:

Dear Mrs Martin, you can get help from similar patterns to adjust as you like the jackeet to be. Happy knitting!

Henny Madvig Marker 25.02.2016 - 10:25:

Jeg er igang med denne opskrift til bolero. Når jeg skal strikke ryggen, mangler jeg en beskrivelse af fremgangsmåden ??? Man går næsten lige videre til andet ærme. ??+ Venlig hilsen Henny

DROPS Design 25.02.2016 kl. 14:49:

Hej, Jo du fortsætter med siden og bagefter ryggen når du har strikket maskerne over det første ærme, herfra hvor der står: Sæt m på en ny tråd og sæt m fra den første tråd tilbage på p... God fornøjelse!

Maria Plaat 14.12.2015 - 15:47:

Ik liep tegen hetzelfde probleem aan als Gea vd Wiek, het patroon is correct zegt garnstudio, nou het is heel onduidelijk halverwege. Ik heb het vestje zelfs weer helemaal uitgehaald! En ga er niet opnieuw mee beginnen. Heel jammer en zeker jammer dat het patroon niet duidelijker geschreven is!!

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