DROPS / 91 / 23

DROPS 91-23 by DROPS Design

Knitted short cardigan with English rib, in 2 threads DROPS Alpaca. Size: S-XXL

Size: S – M – L – XL - XXL
Measurements of cardigan from wrist to wrist: 146-148-150-152-153 cm
Chest measures: 56-60-64-68-73 cm
Mid back measures(inclusive of bottom edge): 78-82-85-85-88 cm

Materials: Alpaca
500-550-600-650-700 g colour no. 7240, petrol

Drops circular and double pointed needles size 4.5 and 5.5 mm

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting Gauge: 16 sts x 20 rows on needles size 5.5 mm with 2 threads of Alpaca in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.

English Rib on circular needle:
1st round: *K1, make a yo, sl 1 st as if to P*, repeat from *-*.
2nd round: *1 yo, sl 1 as if to P , P yo and the loose st tog., repeat from *-*
3rd round: *K yo and loose st tog., make a yo, sl 1 as if to P*, repeat from *-*.
Repeat 2nd and 3rd row.

Back and front piece: Knit the front and back piece back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 90-96-102-108-117 sts loosely on circular needle size 5.5 with 2 threads of Alpaca. Knit stocking sts. When piece measures 64-68-70-70-72 cm bind off loosely.

Sleeve: Cast on 26-28-28-28-32 sts on a short circular needle size 5.5 mm with 2 threads of Alpaca. Cast on using 2 needles (use 2 needles to make the edge more stretchy). Remove 1 needle and continue in English Rib – see explanation above - and finish each round with K.1. When piece measures 11-11-12-12-13 cm change to double pointed needles size 4.5. Continue in English Rib for another 3 cm. Change to double pointed needles size 5.5 and continue in stocking sts. At the same time inc. 16 sts evenly on the 1st round of stocking sts = 42-44-44-44-48 sts. When piece measures 23-21-20-18-18 cm inc 2 sts in the centre under the sleeve on every 10-7-5-3.5-4 cm a total of 3-4-5-7-6 times = 48-52-54-58-60 sts. When the piece measures 45-44-43-42-40 cm bind off loosely.

Assembly: Fold the square in harf, so the “cast on” row folds up to the “bind off” row (the square being the front and back piece). Sew tog the sides of the square using invisible sts leaving a 17-18-18-17-17 cm opening towards the folded edge for armholes = 15-16-17-18-19 cm.

Edge: Pick up 180-192-204-216-234 sts along the “cast on” and “bind off” edges with 2 threads of Alpaca. Knit 1st row as follows: *K2, K2 sts in the next st*, repeat from *-* until finish round = 240-256-272-288-312 sts. Continue in English Rib – see explanation above. When the edge measures 3 cm change to circular needle size 5.5 – continue in English Rib until the edge measures 14-14-15-15-16 cm. Bind off loosely – to make sure the bound off edge doesn't become too tight make a yo after each st (the yo’s are knitted and bound off as sts). Set in the sleeves.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 91-23) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (19)

Katharina 09.03.2019 - 08:09:

Hiiiiiiilfe bei dem Muster auf der Rundstricknadel. Also ich habe das Muster gestrickt wie es da steht. Das sieht nicht annähernd so aus wie auf dem Bild. Anscheinend ist es ein Patentmuster, weil das Video weiter unten kommt. Da muss dringend in der Beschreibung hier geändert werden, was man li und re zusammenstrickt!!!!!

DROPS Design 11.03.2019 kl. 09:55:

Liebe Katharina, es wird hir mit Vollpatent in Runden gestrickt, dh wie in der Anleitung erklärt und wie im Video gezeigt, aber in diesem Modell, wird Reihe 2 Vollpatent mit * 1 Umschlag, 1 M. li. abheben, den Umschlag und die abgehobene M. zusammenstricken * beginnnen, und im video mit * den Umschlag und die abgehobene M li zusammenstricken, 1 Umschlag, 1 M wie zum Linksstricken abheben * aber es wird dann genausogleich aussehen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Brigitte 14.03.2018 - 20:23:

Wie breit und hoch ist das Rechteck?

DROPS Design 15.03.2018 kl. 08:26:

Liebe Brigitte, mit 16 M = 10 cm, die 90-96-102-108-117 M. sind 56-60-64-67.5-73 cm breit und Sie stricken 64-68-70-70-72 cm. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Inge 19.09.2014 - 13:06:

Kan ikke lige se hvordan den skal monteres for den vil da vulke på ryggen

Inge Andersen 18.09.2014 - 21:56:

Hvordan montere man den efter hvad jeg forstår vil den da vulke bølge på ryggen

Ellen 09.01.2014 - 20:36:

A schematic for the layout would definitely be helpful, I can't quite understand how it will come together. Do you use the picked up castoff edge for the top or the bottom it is less stretchy. I there a poof across the shoulders, where the rectangle is folded at sleeves

DROPS Design 10.01.2014 kl. 09:09:

Dear Ellen, you sew tog the first 17-18 cm (see size) of the back piece - this seam will be under sleeve. Cast on + cast off row will be whole opening, where you will pick up your sts for edge. Happy knitting!

Pfahl Valérie 12.06.2013 - 10:57:

Wie strickt man das Muster der Ärmel? Danke!

Pfahl Valérie 11.06.2013 - 16:26:

Hallo, ich kann das Muster nicht stricken, woher kommt es ?

DROPS Design 14.06.2013 kl. 09:40:

Hallo Valérie, das Muster finden Sie in der Anleitung unter "Muster auf Rundstricknadel".

DROPS Design NL 26.11.2007 - 21:21:

Hoi Elly. Helaas bestaat er geen schematekening voor dit vest. Dit patroon was een van mijn eerste, dus de vertaling was ook niet perfect. Ik heb nu het patroon gewijzigd. Misschien wordt het nu duidelijker? Als tip kunt u bij patroon 100-23 kijken - dit is ongeveer hetzelfde, en hier zit er een tekening bij. Succes! ;o)

Elly 24.11.2007 - 11:13:

Ik mis de schematiche tekening ik snap niet hoe het vestje in elkaar gezet moet worden.

Barbara Sanderson 07.11.2006 - 16:18:

I am having difficulty with teh english rib instructions not clear or how to assemble the pieces

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