DROPS Air
DROPS Air
 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 45.15$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24
  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Jumpers
  4. DROPS
  5. 250
  6. 33

Berry Me Sweater

Knitted sweater in DROPS Air or DROPS Paris. Piece is knitted top down with European shoulder / diagonal shoulder, vents in the sides. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 250-33
DROPS design: Pattern ai-477
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 102-110-116-128-138-150 cm = 40"-43⅜"-45¾"-50⅜"-54¼"-59"
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

YARN:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
350-400-400-450-500-550 g color no 39, magenta

Or use:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
650-750-800-900-950-1050 g color no 06, cerise

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32".
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32".
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32" in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
18 stitches in width and 24 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jumpersassembly free cable double neck european shoulder relief round neck top down
DROPS Air
DROPS Air
 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 45.15$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Comments (15)

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP-1 (from right side):
Increase 1 stitch towards the left:
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from row below, pick up yarn from the front and knit stitch in back loop of stitch.
Increase 1 stitch towards the right:
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from row below, pick up yarn from the back and knit stitch in front loop of stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2 (from wrong side):
Increase 1 stitch towards the left:
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from row below, pick up yarn from the back and purl stitch in front loop of stitch.
Increase 1 stitch towards the right:
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from row below, pick up yarn from the front and purl stitch in back loop of stitch.

INCREASE TIP-3 (from right side):
Increase purl towards the left:
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from row below, pick up yarn from the front and purl stitch in back loop of stitch.
Increase purl towards the right:
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from row below, pick up yarn from the back and purl stitch in front loop of stitch.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side. Choose diagram for your size in A.1/A.3 and A.2/A.4

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
In this pattern long and short needles have been used - begin with fitting length and switch as needed.
Work piece back and forth on needle. Begin by casting on stitches in the back of neck. Then work back piece downwards while at the same time increasing in each side of piece until number of stitches for shoulder width is reached. Back piece has a slight diagonal shoulder. Then work down to armholes. Now put back piece a side and work the front piece. Front piece is first worked in 2 parts. Begin by picking up stitches along one shoulder, work pattern while increasing towards the neck. Repeat on the other shoulder. Put right and left front piece together when increases for neck are done. Then work front piece down to armholes. Now slip front piece and back piece on to same circular needle and work body downwards in the round on circular needle before dividing the piece again for vents. Pick up stitches for sleeves around the armholes. First work back and forth with short rows to form a sleeve cap. Then work sleeves downwards in the round on needle. Finish by picking up stitches around the neck and work a neck edge. Fold the neck edge double against the wrong side and fasten. Work front piece in pattern, work back piece in stockinette stitch.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 31-31-33-35-37-37 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7 with DROPS Air or DROPS Paris. Purl 1 row from wrong side.

Read INCREASE TIP-1 and work next row from right side as follows: Knit 3, increase towards the left, knit until 3 stitches remain, increase towards the right, knit 3.
Read INCREASE TIP-2 and work next row from wrong side as follows: Purl 3, increase towards the left, purl until 3 stitches remain, increase towards the right, purl 3.

Continue like this and increase the same way from both right side and wrong side 24-28-28-32-34-38 times in total. After last increase there are 79-87-89-99-105-113 stitches on needle. Insert 1 marker in the side. Now measure piece from here!
Work in stockinette stitch back and forth until piece measures 10-10-11-12-11-12 cm = 4"-4"-4⅜"-4¾"-4⅜"-4¾", measured along the edge of armhole.

Work next row as follows from right side: Knit 3, increase towards the left, work until 3 stitches remain, increase towards the right, knit 3 – remember INCREASE TIP-1.
Increase like this on every row from right side 3-3-4-4-5-5 times in total = 85-93-97-107-115-123 stitches. Work until piece measures 13-13-14-15-15-16 cm = 5⅛"-5⅛"-5½"-6"-6"-6¼", measured from marker along armhole. Cut the yarn, slip stitches on a thread or stitch holder, and work front piece as explained below.

FRONT PIECE:
Begin with left shoulder (when garment is worn).
Pick up 24-28-28-32-34-38 stitches inside outermost stitch along left shoulder on back piece (i.e. pick up 1 stitch in every row from edge at the top of back piece, see D on chart). All length measurements on front piece are done from here. Purl 1 row from wrong side, then work as follows - from right side: 3 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.1, stockinette stitch over the last 6-10-10-14-10-14 stitches. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue with A.3 over stitches in A.1 (increase 2 stitches in A.1 before first cable) = 26-30-30-34-36-40 stitches. When piece measures 9 cm = 3½", increase stitches towards the neck as explained below.
Work next row as follows from right side: Knit 3, increase 1 purl towards the left, work pattern as before over the remaining stitches - read INCREASE TIP-3. Increase like this on every row from right side 3 times in total – purl the increased stitches from the right side = 29-33-33-37-39-43 stitches. Work 1 row with pattern from wrong side, cut the yarn and put piece aside. Then work right shoulder as explained below.

Pick up 24-28-28-32-34-38 stitches inside outermost stitch along right shoulder on back piece (i.e. pick up 1 stitch in every row from edge at the top of back piece, see E on chart). All length measurements on front piece are done from here. Purl 1 row from wrong side, then work as follows - from right side: Knit 6-10-10-14-10-14, A.2, knit 3. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue with A.4 over stitches in A.2 (increase 2 stitches in A.2 before first cable) = 26-30-30-34-36-40 stitches. When piece measures 9 cm = 3½", increase stitches towards the neck as explained below.

Work next row as follows from right side: work pattern as before until 3 stitches remain, increase 1 purl towards the right, knit 3 - remember INCREASE TIP-3. Increase like this on every row from right side 3 times in total – purl the increased stitches from the right side = 29-33-33-37-39-43 stitches. After last increase work 1 row from wrong side. NOTE! Make sure to work the same number of rows on right and left shoulder!
Work next row as follows from right side: Work pattern as before over the 29-33-33-37-39-43 stitches from right front piece, cast on 25-25-27-29-31-31 stitches for neck at the end of this row, then work pattern as before over the 29-33-33-37-39-43 stitches from left front piece = 83-91-93-103-109-117 stitches (there are 4 stitches more on front piece than on back piece due to cables). Work next row as follows from wrong side: Purl 6-10-10-14-10-14, A.3, knit 3, purl 31-31-33-35-37-37, knit 3, A.4, purl 6-10-10-14-10-14. Work next row as follows from right side: Knit 6-10-10-14-10-14, A.4, purl 3, A.5 over the next 31-31-33-35-37-37 stitches, purl 3, A.3, knit 6-10-10-14-10-14.
Continue this pattern back and forth until piece measures 22-24-25-26-27-28 cm = 8¾"-9½"-9¾"-10¼"-10⅝"-11".
Work next row as follows from right side: Knit 3, increase towards the left, work until 3 stitches remain, increase towards the right, knit 3 – remember INCREASE TIP-1
Increase like this on every row from right side 3-3-4-4-5-5 times in total = 89-97-101-111-119-127 stitches. Continue until piece measures 25-27-28-29-31-32 cm = 9¾"-10⅝"-11"-11⅜"-12¼"-12½". Now put front piece and back piece together for body as explained below.

BODY:
Work pattern as before over the 89-97-101-111-119-123 stitches on needle, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches at the end of this row (in the side), work stockinette stitch over the 85-93-97-107-115-127 stitches from back piece, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches at the end of row = 186-202-214-234-254-274 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side on body, in the middle of the 10-10-12-16-18-20 stitches under each sleeve. Move marker threads upwards when working. Use the marker threads when dividing piece for vents in each side. Continue in stockinette stitch until piece measures 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm = 17¼"-18"-19"-19¾"-20½"-21¼", measured from the top point on shoulder on front piece. Now divide front piece and back piece to make vents in the sides. Slip the 91-99-105-115-125-135 stitches from back piece on a thread or needle and work only over stitches on front piece.

FRONT PIECE:
= 95-103-109-119-129-139 stitches. Knit 1 row from right side while increasing 39-43-45-51-53-59 stitches evenly = 134-146-154-170-182-198 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4. Work next row as follows - from wrong side: Work 2 stitches in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* and finish with purl 2 and 2 stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 12 cm = 4¾". Bind off. Sweater measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26" in total, measured at the top of shoulder on front piece.

BACK PIECE:
= 91-99-105-115-125-135 stitches. Knit 1 row from right side while increasing 43-47-49-55-57-63 evenly = 134-146-154-170-182-198 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4. Work the same way as on front piece.

SLEEVES:
Place piece flat and insert 1 marker at the top of armhole (NOTE! It is not where stitches were picked up for front piece but approx. 6-8 cm = 2⅜"-3⅛" down on front piece = mid on top of shoulder).
Use circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7, begin in the middle of the new stitches cast on under sleeve, and pick up 74-78-86-88-92-98 stitches along armhole - adjust to pick up same number of stitches on each side of marker along armhole. Now work stockinette stitch back and forth with short rows over sleeve cap, this is done to get a better shape on sleeve. Begin mid under sleeve.

1st row (right side): work 9-10-10-11-11-12 stitches past marker, turn
2nd row (wrong side): work 9-10-10-11-11-12 stitches past marker, turn.
3rd row (right side): 4-4-4-4-4-3 stitches past where the previous turn was, turn
4th row (wrong side): work 4-4-4-4-4-3 stitches past where the previous turn was, turn

Repeat 3rd and 4th row until 29-30-34-35-39-36 stitches have been worked past marker mid on top of sleeve (6-6-7-7-8-9 turns have been done in each side). Work from right side until beginning of round (mid under sleeve). Insert 1 marker thread here, this is used when decreasing stitches under sleeve. Move marker thread upwards when working.

Continue working in the round in stockinette stitch. When sleeve measures 7-7-8-8-9-10 cm = 2¾"-2¾"-3⅛"-3⅛"-3½"-4" from where stitches were picked up (all length measurements are done mid on top of sleeve), decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease every other round 3-3-4-4-5-6 times, then decrease every 3-2½-2½-2-2-1½ cm = 1⅛"-1"-1"-¾"-¾"-½" 10-11-13-13-13-14 times, a total of 13-14-17-17-18-20 times = 48-50-52-54-56-58 stitches. Continue to work until sleeve measures 44-43-44-42-41-40 cm = 17¼"-17"-17¼"-16½"-16⅛"-15¾". 8 cm = 3⅛" remain until finished measurements. Try the sweater and work to desired length before rib. Knit 1 round while increasing 12-10-12-10-12-10 stitches evenly = 60-60-64-64-68-68 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 MM = US 4. Work rib (knit 2/purl 2) for 8 cm = 3⅛". Bind off. Sleeve measures approx. 52-51-52-50-49-48 cm = 20½"-20"-20½"-19¾"-19¼"-19".

NECK EDGE:
Begin at one shoulder line and pick up from right side inside 1 edge stitch approx. 100 to 112 stitches on a circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4. Number of stitches must be divisible by 4. Work rib (knit 2/purl 2) in the round for 10 cm = 4". Bind off. Fold rib at the top of neck down on inside of garment. Fasten rib to get a double neck edge. To avoid a tight neck edge that sticks out it is important to keep the seam elastic.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = slip 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
symbols = slip 4 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
symbols = no stitch, skip this square
symbols = slip 1 stitch, knit 2 and pass slipped stitch over stitches worked
symbols = 1 yarn over, on next row/round purl yarn over from wrong side / knit from right side to make a hole
symbols = 1 yarn over, on next row purl yarn over twisted to avoid holes
symbols = pick up stitches for left shoulder at the front (d) along left shoulder at the back (D), pick up stitches for right shoulder at the front (e) along right shoulder back (E)
symbols = knitting direction
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (15)

country flag Esther Vradis wrote:

Ce magnifique modèle m'a séduit mais j'avais peur de me lancer mais grâce à vos explications et vidéos cela devient additif. Bon tricot à tous/toutes.

15.04.2024 - 23:36

country flag Vradis-Willa Esther wrote:

Pour la "petite tresse" du motif (sur 3 mailles) il est indiqué : Glisser 1 maille et tricoter 2 mailles endroit, passer la maille glisser par dessus les mailles tricotée. Il nous reste .... 1 seule maille.. Deux rangs après on fait 1 (seule)jetée Du coups on "diminue" 1 maille tout les 4 rangs ??? J'ai du défaire et je passe la maille glissée sur une seule maille tricotée (et non sur les 2 mailles comme indiqué).

15.04.2024 - 19:39

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Vradis-Willa, pour cette petite torsade, on ne diminue qu'une seule maille: on glisse 1 maille comme pour la tricoter à l'endroit, on tricote les 2 mailles suivantes à l'endroit (mais pas ensemble), puis on passe la maille glissée par-dessus les 2 mailles tricotées = il reste 2 mailles, au rang suivant sur l'endroit, on fait 1 jeté = on a de nouveau 3 mailles. Bon tricot!

16.04.2024 - 13:28

country flag Mme Yousra Mawazini wrote:

C'est taille S que je tricotte. Je constate une erreur quand je fais le motif A1 suivi du A3. Je ne peux pas répéter le A3 tel qu'illustré.cIl y a une erreur que je vois clairement là où il y a les trois mailles qui forment un genre de petite entorse. Je sais qu'on augmente 2 mailles avant la 1ère entorse, ici la question, comment faire alors.

15.04.2024 - 08:10

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Mawazini, A.1 en taille S se tricote donc sur 15 mailles augmentées à 17 avant la torsade; vous répétez les 4 rangs des petites torsades comme avant (en cas de doute, reprenez ces petites torsades au 1er rang de A.1), et répétez les grandes torsades de A.3 tous les 10 rangs (9 rangs entre chaque torsade). Bon tricot!

15.04.2024 - 08:29

country flag Mme Yousra Mawazini wrote:

C'est taille S que je tricotte. Je constate une erreur quand je fais le motif A1 suivi du A3. Je ne peux pas répéter le A3 tel qu'illustré.cIl y a une erreur que je vois clairement là où il y a les trois mailles qui forment un genre de petite entorse.

15.04.2024 - 08:07

country flag Yousra Mawazini wrote:

Bonjour, pour l'épaule gauche, on fait d'abord le motif A1 sur 24 m, puis A3 sur 26 m (2 mailles ont été augmentée avant la 1ère torsade) par la suite on continue avec A3 sur les 10 rangs suivant. Sauf que, je vois qu'il y a une erreur, et la petite torsade sur 3 mailles ne fonctionne plus, comme s'il y un rang de plus. Pouvez-vous m'expliquer comment faire.

13.04.2024 - 23:48

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Mawazini, quelle taille tricotez-vous? Car dans les diagrammes XXL et XXXL, A.1 se commence sur 21 mailles, on augmente 2 mailles avant la 1è!re torsade pour tricoter A.3 sur 23 mailles au total. Lorsque vous répétez A.3 en hauteur, répétez les torsades comme avant pour avoir les bons croisements quand il faut, même s'ils ne sont plus faits aux mêmes rangs qu'avant. Bon tricot!

15.04.2024 - 07:43

country flag Magdimansour wrote:

Bonjour, pour l'épaule gauche, on fait d'abord le motif A1 sur 24 m, puis A3 sur 26 m (2 mailles ont été augmentée avant la 1ère torsade) par la suite on continue avec A3 sur les 10 rangs suivant. Sauf que, je vois qu'il y a une erreur, et la petite torsade sur 3 mailles ne fonctionne plus, comme s'il y un rang de plus. Pouvez-vous m'expliquer comment faire.

13.04.2024 - 23:46

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Magdimansour, A.1 se tricote sur 21 mailles dans les tailles XXL et XXXL, et on augmente 2 mailles au 4ème rang pour avoir 23 mailles. Lorsque vous répétez A.3 par la suite, répétez le bon nombre de rangs pour la grande torsade mais continuez les petites torsades comme avant, autrement dit, il est possible qu'elles ne se fassent pas aux mêmes rangs qu'avant, mais il faut bien conserver le rythme des petites torsades comme avant. Bon tricot!

15.04.2024 - 07:41

country flag Miri wrote:

Hallo Ich möchte gerne den Pulli stricken aber ein anderes Garn nutzen. Nun bekomme ich beim Umrechnen allerdings sehr verschiedene Ergebnisse raus, je nachdem ob ich mich nach DropsAir oder DropsParis richte. An welchem Garn sollte ich mich eher orientieren?

30.03.2024 - 12:16

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Miri, benutzen Sie die kleinere Angabe/Lauflänge für Ihre Größe - je nach Lauflänge wird die Garnmenge in gram verschieden sein. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

02.04.2024 - 14:25

country flag Arlene Ruhle wrote:

How do I download free patterns

22.03.2024 - 17:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ariene, right above the line that says "Pattern Instructions" there is a line where you can select the language, and in there is a printer icon. Click on that and that gives you the PDF pattern. Happy Knitting!

23.03.2024 - 22:52

country flag Mariolina wrote:

Buongiorno vorrei fare un maglione della taglia 58/60 mi fate vedere alcuni modelli con spiegazioni semplici? grazie

29.02.2024 - 15:35

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Mariolina, può trovare le misure dei nostri modelli per le diverse taglia in fondo ad ogni pagina del modello: le confronti con un modello in suo possesso e può trovare la taglia corretta. Buon lavoro!

02.03.2024 - 11:35

country flag Katja wrote:

Guten Tag, wo finde ich den V-Ausschnitt bei dem Modell?

17.02.2024 - 14:12

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Katja, danke für den Hinweis, es sieht so aus, daß die Beschreibung geändert sollte, da hier es kein V-Ausschnitt ist. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.02.2024 - 08:59

Berry Me Sweater



Knitted sweater in DROPS Air or DROPS Paris. Piece is knitted top down with European shoulder / diagonal shoulder, vents in the sides. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 250-33
DROPS design: Pattern ai-477
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 102-110-116-128-138-150 cm = 40"-43⅜"-45¾"-50⅜"-54¼"-59"
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

YARN:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
350-400-400-450-500-550 g color no 39, magenta

Or use:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
650-750-800-900-950-1050 g color no 06, cerise

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32".
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32".
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32" in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
18 stitches in width and 24 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to smaller needles.

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP-1 (from right side):
Increase 1 stitch towards the left:
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from row below, pick up yarn from the front and knit stitch in back loop of stitch.
Increase 1 stitch towards the right:
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from row below, pick up yarn from the back and knit stitch in front loop of stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2 (from wrong side):
Increase 1 stitch towards the left:
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from row below, pick up yarn from the back and purl stitch in front loop of stitch.
Increase 1 stitch towards the right:
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from row below, pick up yarn from the front and purl stitch in back loop of stitch.

INCREASE TIP-3 (from right side):
Increase purl towards the left:
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from row below, pick up yarn from the front and purl stitch in back loop of stitch.
Increase purl towards the right:
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from row below, pick up yarn from the back and purl stitch in front loop of stitch.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side. Choose diagram for your size in A.1/A.3 and A.2/A.4

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
In this pattern long and short needles have been used - begin with fitting length and switch as needed.
Work piece back and forth on needle. Begin by casting on stitches in the back of neck. Then work back piece downwards while at the same time increasing in each side of piece until number of stitches for shoulder width is reached. Back piece has a slight diagonal shoulder. Then work down to armholes. Now put back piece a side and work the front piece. Front piece is first worked in 2 parts. Begin by picking up stitches along one shoulder, work pattern while increasing towards the neck. Repeat on the other shoulder. Put right and left front piece together when increases for neck are done. Then work front piece down to armholes. Now slip front piece and back piece on to same circular needle and work body downwards in the round on circular needle before dividing the piece again for vents. Pick up stitches for sleeves around the armholes. First work back and forth with short rows to form a sleeve cap. Then work sleeves downwards in the round on needle. Finish by picking up stitches around the neck and work a neck edge. Fold the neck edge double against the wrong side and fasten. Work front piece in pattern, work back piece in stockinette stitch.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 31-31-33-35-37-37 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7 with DROPS Air or DROPS Paris. Purl 1 row from wrong side.

Read INCREASE TIP-1 and work next row from right side as follows: Knit 3, increase towards the left, knit until 3 stitches remain, increase towards the right, knit 3.
Read INCREASE TIP-2 and work next row from wrong side as follows: Purl 3, increase towards the left, purl until 3 stitches remain, increase towards the right, purl 3.

Continue like this and increase the same way from both right side and wrong side 24-28-28-32-34-38 times in total. After last increase there are 79-87-89-99-105-113 stitches on needle. Insert 1 marker in the side. Now measure piece from here!
Work in stockinette stitch back and forth until piece measures 10-10-11-12-11-12 cm = 4"-4"-4⅜"-4¾"-4⅜"-4¾", measured along the edge of armhole.

Work next row as follows from right side: Knit 3, increase towards the left, work until 3 stitches remain, increase towards the right, knit 3 – remember INCREASE TIP-1.
Increase like this on every row from right side 3-3-4-4-5-5 times in total = 85-93-97-107-115-123 stitches. Work until piece measures 13-13-14-15-15-16 cm = 5⅛"-5⅛"-5½"-6"-6"-6¼", measured from marker along armhole. Cut the yarn, slip stitches on a thread or stitch holder, and work front piece as explained below.

FRONT PIECE:
Begin with left shoulder (when garment is worn).
Pick up 24-28-28-32-34-38 stitches inside outermost stitch along left shoulder on back piece (i.e. pick up 1 stitch in every row from edge at the top of back piece, see D on chart). All length measurements on front piece are done from here. Purl 1 row from wrong side, then work as follows - from right side: 3 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.1, stockinette stitch over the last 6-10-10-14-10-14 stitches. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue with A.3 over stitches in A.1 (increase 2 stitches in A.1 before first cable) = 26-30-30-34-36-40 stitches. When piece measures 9 cm = 3½", increase stitches towards the neck as explained below.
Work next row as follows from right side: Knit 3, increase 1 purl towards the left, work pattern as before over the remaining stitches - read INCREASE TIP-3. Increase like this on every row from right side 3 times in total – purl the increased stitches from the right side = 29-33-33-37-39-43 stitches. Work 1 row with pattern from wrong side, cut the yarn and put piece aside. Then work right shoulder as explained below.

Pick up 24-28-28-32-34-38 stitches inside outermost stitch along right shoulder on back piece (i.e. pick up 1 stitch in every row from edge at the top of back piece, see E on chart). All length measurements on front piece are done from here. Purl 1 row from wrong side, then work as follows - from right side: Knit 6-10-10-14-10-14, A.2, knit 3. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue with A.4 over stitches in A.2 (increase 2 stitches in A.2 before first cable) = 26-30-30-34-36-40 stitches. When piece measures 9 cm = 3½", increase stitches towards the neck as explained below.

Work next row as follows from right side: work pattern as before until 3 stitches remain, increase 1 purl towards the right, knit 3 - remember INCREASE TIP-3. Increase like this on every row from right side 3 times in total – purl the increased stitches from the right side = 29-33-33-37-39-43 stitches. After last increase work 1 row from wrong side. NOTE! Make sure to work the same number of rows on right and left shoulder!
Work next row as follows from right side: Work pattern as before over the 29-33-33-37-39-43 stitches from right front piece, cast on 25-25-27-29-31-31 stitches for neck at the end of this row, then work pattern as before over the 29-33-33-37-39-43 stitches from left front piece = 83-91-93-103-109-117 stitches (there are 4 stitches more on front piece than on back piece due to cables). Work next row as follows from wrong side: Purl 6-10-10-14-10-14, A.3, knit 3, purl 31-31-33-35-37-37, knit 3, A.4, purl 6-10-10-14-10-14. Work next row as follows from right side: Knit 6-10-10-14-10-14, A.4, purl 3, A.5 over the next 31-31-33-35-37-37 stitches, purl 3, A.3, knit 6-10-10-14-10-14.
Continue this pattern back and forth until piece measures 22-24-25-26-27-28 cm = 8¾"-9½"-9¾"-10¼"-10⅝"-11".
Work next row as follows from right side: Knit 3, increase towards the left, work until 3 stitches remain, increase towards the right, knit 3 – remember INCREASE TIP-1
Increase like this on every row from right side 3-3-4-4-5-5 times in total = 89-97-101-111-119-127 stitches. Continue until piece measures 25-27-28-29-31-32 cm = 9¾"-10⅝"-11"-11⅜"-12¼"-12½". Now put front piece and back piece together for body as explained below.

BODY:
Work pattern as before over the 89-97-101-111-119-123 stitches on needle, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches at the end of this row (in the side), work stockinette stitch over the 85-93-97-107-115-127 stitches from back piece, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches at the end of row = 186-202-214-234-254-274 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side on body, in the middle of the 10-10-12-16-18-20 stitches under each sleeve. Move marker threads upwards when working. Use the marker threads when dividing piece for vents in each side. Continue in stockinette stitch until piece measures 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm = 17¼"-18"-19"-19¾"-20½"-21¼", measured from the top point on shoulder on front piece. Now divide front piece and back piece to make vents in the sides. Slip the 91-99-105-115-125-135 stitches from back piece on a thread or needle and work only over stitches on front piece.

FRONT PIECE:
= 95-103-109-119-129-139 stitches. Knit 1 row from right side while increasing 39-43-45-51-53-59 stitches evenly = 134-146-154-170-182-198 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4. Work next row as follows - from wrong side: Work 2 stitches in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* and finish with purl 2 and 2 stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 12 cm = 4¾". Bind off. Sweater measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26" in total, measured at the top of shoulder on front piece.

BACK PIECE:
= 91-99-105-115-125-135 stitches. Knit 1 row from right side while increasing 43-47-49-55-57-63 evenly = 134-146-154-170-182-198 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4. Work the same way as on front piece.

SLEEVES:
Place piece flat and insert 1 marker at the top of armhole (NOTE! It is not where stitches were picked up for front piece but approx. 6-8 cm = 2⅜"-3⅛" down on front piece = mid on top of shoulder).
Use circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7, begin in the middle of the new stitches cast on under sleeve, and pick up 74-78-86-88-92-98 stitches along armhole - adjust to pick up same number of stitches on each side of marker along armhole. Now work stockinette stitch back and forth with short rows over sleeve cap, this is done to get a better shape on sleeve. Begin mid under sleeve.

1st row (right side): work 9-10-10-11-11-12 stitches past marker, turn
2nd row (wrong side): work 9-10-10-11-11-12 stitches past marker, turn.
3rd row (right side): 4-4-4-4-4-3 stitches past where the previous turn was, turn
4th row (wrong side): work 4-4-4-4-4-3 stitches past where the previous turn was, turn

Repeat 3rd and 4th row until 29-30-34-35-39-36 stitches have been worked past marker mid on top of sleeve (6-6-7-7-8-9 turns have been done in each side). Work from right side until beginning of round (mid under sleeve). Insert 1 marker thread here, this is used when decreasing stitches under sleeve. Move marker thread upwards when working.

Continue working in the round in stockinette stitch. When sleeve measures 7-7-8-8-9-10 cm = 2¾"-2¾"-3⅛"-3⅛"-3½"-4" from where stitches were picked up (all length measurements are done mid on top of sleeve), decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease every other round 3-3-4-4-5-6 times, then decrease every 3-2½-2½-2-2-1½ cm = 1⅛"-1"-1"-¾"-¾"-½" 10-11-13-13-13-14 times, a total of 13-14-17-17-18-20 times = 48-50-52-54-56-58 stitches. Continue to work until sleeve measures 44-43-44-42-41-40 cm = 17¼"-17"-17¼"-16½"-16⅛"-15¾". 8 cm = 3⅛" remain until finished measurements. Try the sweater and work to desired length before rib. Knit 1 round while increasing 12-10-12-10-12-10 stitches evenly = 60-60-64-64-68-68 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 MM = US 4. Work rib (knit 2/purl 2) for 8 cm = 3⅛". Bind off. Sleeve measures approx. 52-51-52-50-49-48 cm = 20½"-20"-20½"-19¾"-19¼"-19".

NECK EDGE:
Begin at one shoulder line and pick up from right side inside 1 edge stitch approx. 100 to 112 stitches on a circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4. Number of stitches must be divisible by 4. Work rib (knit 2/purl 2) in the round for 10 cm = 4". Bind off. Fold rib at the top of neck down on inside of garment. Fasten rib to get a double neck edge. To avoid a tight neck edge that sticks out it is important to keep the seam elastic.

Diagram explanations
symbol = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbol = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbol = slip 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
symbol = slip 4 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
symbol = no stitch, skip this square
symbol = slip 1 stitch, knit 2 and pass slipped stitch over stitches worked
symbol = 1 yarn over, on next row/round purl yarn over from wrong side / knit from right side to make a hole
symbol = 1 yarn over, on next row purl yarn over twisted to avoid holes
symbol = pick up stitches for left shoulder at the front (d) along left shoulder at the back (D), pick up stitches for right shoulder at the front (e) along right shoulder back (E)
symbol = knitting direction

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Do you need help with this pattern?

You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com.
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