DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
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Holiday Buddies

Knitted dog jumper in DROPS Karisma or DROPS Fiesta. The piece is worked from neck to tail, with rib and cables. Sizes XS - M. Theme: Christmas.

DROPS 245-31

#holidaybuddiesdogsweater

DROPS Design: Pattern u-975
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
XS - S – M

MEASUREMENTS:
Back-length: 21-28-37 cm, measured without neck.
Chest: 28/32 - 40/44 - 48/52 cm.
Examples of breeds: XS = Chihuahua,
S = Bichon Frisé, M = Cocker Spaniel

YARN:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100-150-200 g colour 18, red / 48, wine red

Or use:
DROPS FIESTA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100-150-200 g colour 12, red

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE.

KNITTING TENSION:
22 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

KNITTING TIP:
When working short rows, to avoid holes where you previously turned, pick up the strand between the left and right needle, place it on the left needle and knit/purl it twisted together with the next stitch. This allows the rib to be is continued as before (knit 2, purl 3).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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DOG JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked from neck to tail. The neck and yoke are worked in the round with double pointed needles/circular needle. The yoke is divided for the front legs and the back and tummy worked separately back and forth, then rejoined and the body worked in the round. Short rows are worked at the end of the body, so the back is longer than the tummy, then an edge worked in the round. Finally, an edge is worked around the leg-openings.

NECK:
Cast on 64-84-104 stitches with double pointed needles/circular needle size 3.5 mm and colour red/wine red DROPS Karisma or DROPS Fiesta. Work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2). Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round. Work the rib for 4-6-8 cm (the neck is folded double later). Insert 1 new marker to measure the yoke from.

YOKE:
Insert 2 marker-threads mid-top of yoke as follows; Count 30-42-54 stitches and insert 1 marker-thread before the next stitch, count 18 stitches and insert 1 marker-thread before the next stitch.
Now work as follows from the first marker:
* Knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left before the first marker-thread, knit 2, work A.1 over the next 18 stitches, work from *-* to end of round. You have increased 6 stitches in A.1 (= 24 stitches between the marker-threads) and there are 70-90-110 stitches. Continue the rib and work the last round in A.1.
Now increase stitches in the rib and work A.2 over A.1 as follows:
* Knit 2, purl 1, make 1 yarn over, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left before the first marker-thread, knit 2, work A.2 over the next 24 stitches, work from *-* to end of round. On the next round, purl the yarn overs twisted = 81-106-131 stitches. Continue the new rib (knit 2, purl 3) and A.2.
Work until the yoke measures 4-6-8 cm from the 2nd marker, adjusting so the next round is an odd round in the pattern (this allows you to continue cabling from the right side).

Now divide for the front legs as follows:
Cast off 2 stitches, work rib over the next 13-18-23 stitches (tummy), cast off 2 stitches. Place the 13-18-23 tummy-stitches on a stitch holder and work to end of round as before.

BACK:
= 64-84-104 stitches. Work rib and A.2 back and forth for a further 5-7-9 cm, with the last row worked from the right side. Cut the strand and place the stitches on a stitch holder. The back measures 9-13-17 cm from the 2nd marker.

TUMMY:
Place the 13-18-23 tummy-stitches on circular needle/double pointed needles size 3.5 mm. Work rib back and forth for a further 5½-7½-9½ cm - with the next row from the right side (the tummy is slightly longer than the back to give chest room).
ROW 1 (right side): Work rib and cast on 2 stitches at the end of the row. Turn.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Work rib and cast on 2 stitches at the end of the row = 17-22-27 stitches. The tummy measures approx. 6-8-10 cm from the division.

BODY:
Place the 64-84-104 back-stitches on the same needle(s) as the 17-22-27 tummy-stitches = 81-106-131 stitches. Begin before the 17-22-27 tummy-stitches (the same place as before you divided for the front legs). Continue the rib and A.2 in the round, knitting the 2 cast-on stitches on each side of the tummy.
Work until the body measures 5-7-11 cm from the join (approx. 3 cm left before the tummy is finished in length) – adjusting so the next round is an odd round in A.2. Insert 1 marker-thread in the middle of A.2; the back is now measured from here.
Now work short rows back and forth, so the back is 4-5-6 cm longer than the tummy.
Place the first 17-22-27 tummy-stitches on a stitch holder.
Turn, working as before from the wrong side.
ROW 1 (wrong side): Work to end of row, turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 2 (right side): Work until there are 3 stitches left on the row, turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 3 (wrong side): Work until there are 3 stitches left on the row, turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 4 (right side): Work until there are 2 stitches left before where you previously turned, turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 5 (wrong side): Work until there are 2 stitches left before where you previously turned, turn, tighten the strand.
Continue like this, turning when there are alternately 3 and 2 stitches left before the previous turn (the cabling in A.2 continues but do not cable on the last 2 short rows). When you have turned a total of 6-7-9 times on each side, there are 34-48-58 stitches un-turned on top of the back and the last row was from the wrong side. Turn and work from the right side as follows:
Work rib and A.2 (without cabling) - read KNITTING TIP in explanations above. When you have reached the 17-22-27 tummy stitches, place them back on the needle(s). Begin the round from here (before the tummy). Work 1 round - remember KNITTING TIP.
The piece measures approx. 4-5-6 cm from the marker-thread in A.2. Move the marker-thread here; the edge is measured from here.

EDGE:
Continue the rib as far as A.2 (24 back stitches), purl 3, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 3, knit 2, purl 1, pick up the strand before the next stitch, place it twisted on the left needle and purl this stitch, purl 1, knit 2, purl 3, knit 2 together, knit 1, purl 3 (2 decreased stitches and 1 increased stitch), work the rib as before to the end of the round. This decreasing/increasing means the rib will now fit all the way round. Work rib (knit 2, purl 3) over all stitches until the edge measures 3 cm from the marker-thread. Cast off with rib. The jumper measures approx. 25-34-45 cm from cast-on to cast-off edge, measured along the back-

LEG-OPENINGS:
Use double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and DROPS Karisma. Knit up 36-44-56 stitches around one leg-opening (stitch number should be divisible by 4). Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) in the round for 3-4-5 cm. Cast off a little loosely with rib. Repeat around the other leg-opening.

Diagram

	= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
	= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, which is purled twisted on the next round to avoid a hole
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, which is knitted twisted on the next round to avoid a hole
	= place 4 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
	= place 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
	= neck-circumference
	= chest circumference
	= yoke-length
	= leg-opening
	= tummy-length (without edge)
	= back-length as far as division under tummy (without edge)
	= back-length after division under tummy (without edge)
	= back-length after division under tummy (without edge)
	= length from before leg-opening to division under tummy (without edge)
	= neck-length
	= leg-length
	= edge at bottom of body

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Holiday Buddies

lamichaela

Comments / Questions (6)

Avril Ribeli wrote:

Can you help me to read the Charts A1 and A2 as if it were written out in the Patterns

02.12.2024 - 21:15

Laeti wrote:

Hallo! Thank you so much for sharing this. It’s beautiful ! :) Will you release a design like that for dogs that are size L/XL ? (weimaraner for instance :) ) Thank you !

12.11.2024 - 08:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Laeti, please find all our sweaters for dog in L (our larger size) here. Hope this can help you or inspire you adjusting to the requested measurements. Happy knitting!

12.11.2024 - 15:41

Christa Lachmann wrote:

Hallo ich möchte für eine Freundin diesen Hundepullover, als Überraschung stricken. Daher kann ich den kleinen Hund nicht ausmessen. Sie hat einen kleinen Pudel der genauso wie auf diesem Video aussieht . Welche Größe hat der Pullover auf dem Video?

05.10.2024 - 16:55

Liebe Frau Lachmann, dann sollte eine Größe M passen. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

07.10.2024 - 07:50

Anke wrote:

Hallo, Voor dit patroon begrijp ik niet helemaal waar het stuk met de kabel komt. Ik moet eerst 42 steken breien en dan de eerste draad zetten en dan na de pas ook nog steken. Maar dat zijn minder steken dan voor depas. Of doe ik iets fout?

08.05.2024 - 17:24

Dag Anke,

De kabel wordt op de rug gebreid. Je voegt de markeerdraden in zonder de steken te breien, dus je telt uit waar je de markeerdraden plaatst. Dan begin je (vanaf de markeerdraad die je na de hals hebt geplaatst) eerst met 2 recht 2 averecht. Dit herhaal je tot 2 steken voor de eerste markeerdraad, dan brei je de recht en dan A.1, enzovoort. Bij het verdelen van het werk voor de buik worden de steken voor de buik op een hulpdraad gezet en deze zitten dan precies tegenover de kabel van de rug.

09.05.2024 - 09:31

Lill Pleym wrote:

Takk for raskt svar. Da er neste spørsmål. Hvordan strikker jeg når jeg kommer til de to felte maskene til forben? Snu og strikke tilbake? Eller strikke over maskene så det blir et hull? Men da blir hullet veldig stramt? Jeg lurer veldig på denne deen av oppskriften. Hilsen Lill

06.02.2024 - 07:13

Hei Lill, Etter du har felt av til forbena fortsetter du fram og tilbake, kun over maskene på ryggen, mens magemaskene er på hjelpepinnen. God fornøyelse!

07.02.2024 - 06:43

Jeg forstår ikke denne oppskriften. Jeg har kommet til at det skal deles til forben og at 18 masker settes på en tråd. Hvordan skal jeg fortsette omgangen videre? Ved å klippe tråden og starte med ny tråd etter maskene som er satt på tråd? Eller å gå tilbake på pinnen? Veldig vanskelig å forstå oppskriften herfra….. hilsen Lill Pleym

05.02.2024 - 21:39

Hei Lill, Du kan enten klippe tråden og fortsette etter maskene på hjelpepinnen, eller strikke maskene først før de settes på hjelpepinnen. Da har du tråden klar til å fortsette videre. God fornøyelse!

06.02.2024 - 06:49