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  6. 32

Good Morning Slippers by DROPS Design

Felted slippers for men in DROPS Alaska. Sizes 35-46.

Keywords: slippers

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DROPS 224-32
DROPS Design: Pattern no x-476
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
Shoe size: 35/37 – 38/40 – 41/43 – 44/46
Foot-length after felting: 22 – 24 – 27 – 30 cm
Foot-length before felting: approx. 29½ -32½-37-40 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-150-150-150 g colour 64, north sea
50-50-50-50 g colour 65, sage green

NEEDLES:
DROPS SINGLE POINTED NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM.

KNITTING TENSION:
Before felting: 16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
After felting: 20 stitches in width and 27 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool 		from 1.35 £ /50g
DROPS Alaska uni colour DROPS Alaska uni colour 1.35 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Alaska mix DROPS Alaska mix 1.35 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.40£. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

DIAGRAM:
See diagram A.1 - the diagram shows how to fold the slipper when assembling.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SLIPPERS – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The slipper is worked back and forth in one piece. Start at the back edge, work the heel, the sole, the toe and finish off by working the top. When finished it is sewn together and felted in the washing machine.

SLIPPER:

BACK EDGE:
Cast on 23-25-26-28 stitches with needle size 5.5 mm and colour north sea. Work 9 RIDGES – read description above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

HEEL:
Work short rows for the heel; all rows are knitted (= garter stitch). Start from the right side as follows:
Knit until there is 1 stitch left on the row, turn and knit until there is 1 stitch left. * Turn and knit until there is 1 stitch left before the previous turn, turn and knit until there is 1 stitch left before the previous turn *, work from *-* until you have 5-5-6-6 stitches in the middle of the needle (turned 9-10-10-11 times each side). Now work 1 more stitch after each time you turn until you can work all the stitches again = 23-25-26-28 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the row to measure the foot-length from.

SOLE:
Work garter stitch and decrease 4 stitches evenly on the first row (19-21-22-24 stitches), then continue working garter stitch until the piece measures 18½-20-24-27 cm from the marker.

TOE:
Work short rows to shape the toe, all rows are knitted (= garter stitch). Start from the right side as follows:
Knit until there is 1 stitch left on the row, turn and knit until there is 1 stitch left. * Turn and knit until there is 1 stitch left before the previous turn, turn and knit until there is 1 stitch left before the previous turn *, work from *-* until you have 5-5-6-6 stitches in the middle of the needle (turned 7-8-8-9 times each side). Now work 1 more stitch after each time you turn until you can work all the stitches again = 19-21-22-24 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the row to measure from.

TOP:
Change to colour sage green. Work stocking stitch for 9-10-12-13 cm. On the next row from the right side increase 4 stitches evenly spaced (make 1 yarn over which is purled twisted on the next row) = 23-25-26-28 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch until you have worked a total of 13½-15-19-22 cm and the next row is from the right side. Now work the first 5 stitches on the row; the other stitches are placed on a thread.
Change to colour north sea and work garter stitch, increasing 1 stitch inside the last stitch on each row from the right side 5 times (the garter stitch should measure 5 cm (do not stretch the piece). Cast off on the next row from the right side.
Place the last 5 stitches from the thread back on the needle (the middle 13-15-16-18 stitches remain on the thread). Change to colour north sea and work garter stitch, increasing 1 stitch inside the first stitch on each row from the right side 5 times (the garter stitch should measure 5 cm (do not stretch the piece). Cast off on the next row from the wrong side.

Place the last 13-15-16-18 stitches back on the needle. Use colour sage green and work 6 ridges (the first row is from the right side) AT THE SAME TIME as you decrease as follows on every 4th row: Knit together the outside 2 stitches on each side. Decrease a total of 3 times = 7-9-10-12 stitches. Cast off on the next row from the right side.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew together from the wrong side. Fold the piece at the toe so that the top lies over the sole. See diagram A.1 that shows how the slipper is folded. Start by sewing the 9 ridges on the back edge together to the 10 cast-off stitches on the outside of the top. Then sew the top and sole together, edge to edge as far as the toe. Repeat on the other side.

Work the other slipper in the same way.

FELTING:
Place the slippers in the washing machine using a detergent without enzymes or optical bleaches. Wash at 40 degrees with normal centrifuge and without pre-wash. After washing shape the slippers while still wet. Later wash as a normal wool garment.

Diagram

symbols = knitting direction
symbols = shows where the slipper is sewn together
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 224-32) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (5)

country flag Selma wrote:

Hej igen, för att förtydliga min fråga ovan, vilken sida är rät vid rätstickning? Det står i beskrivningen sör häl att man ska börja på rätsida men båda sidor ser likadana ut vid rätstickning..

10.01.2023 - 15:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Selma, du bestemmer selv hvilken side du vælger som retside, da begge sider ser ligedan ud :)

12.01.2023 kl. 13:57

country flag Selma wrote:

Det står rätstickning dvs rät-rät men sen står det på beskrivningen för häl att börja från rätsida osv.. jag börjat om för att sticka rät-avig men förstår inte vilket det ska vara?

05.01.2023 - 22:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Selma, vi forstår ikke rigtig dit spørgsmål, men se måleskitsen nederst i mønsteret, her kan du se hvilket stykke som er hæl og som skal strikkes rätstickning :)

10.01.2023 kl. 10:52

country flag Marina wrote:

Non sono sicura di aver compreso bene l'istruzione per il tallone. Sono arrivata alla fine del lavoro con i ferri accorciati (11 punti giro a ogni lato). Ora devo continuare a lavorare a ferri accorciati, lavorando ogni ferro una maglia in più, fino a quando non li lavoro tutti (quindi altri 22 ferri), giusto?

29.11.2022 - 18:14

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Marina, il procedimento è corretto. Buon lavoro!

03.12.2022 kl. 16:26

country flag MARTIN wrote:

Bonjour, est-il possible d'avoir le patron avec les mesures ? Merci.

11.11.2022 - 11:44

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Martin, nous n'avons pas ce type de mesures pour ces chaussons, vérifiez bien votre tension et suivez attentivement les explications, vous aurez alors la bonne forme/les bonnes mesures. Bon tricot!

14.11.2022 kl. 08:47

country flag Jonna wrote:

Har I ikke Eskimo længere Venligst jonna

28.09.2022 - 18:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Jonna, Jo det er den som hedder DROPS Snow :)

29.09.2022 kl. 09:21

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