DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 2.45 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS AW2425
DROPS 226-26

#newfernshawl

DROPS Design: Pattern no bm-088
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
Height along the middle = approx. 47 cm.
Width along the top = approx. 150 cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200 g colour 38, olive

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: Length 60 - 80 cm.

KNITTING TENSION:
20 stitches in width and 39 rows in height with garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 2.45 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in the pattern from the right side.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SHAWL – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The shawl is worked from the one short-side and across. Stitches are decreased on each side of the shawl and increased in the middle.

SHAWL:
Cast on 134 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm and DROPS Baby Merino. Knit 1 row from the right side. Insert a marker at the beginning of the next row – marks the right side.
Now work as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1 and insert a marker in this stitch (= mid-stitch), 1 yarn over, knit until there are 2 stitches left, knit 2 together = 135 stitches.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Knit 2 together, knit to end of row = 134 stitches.
ROW 3 (right side): Knit as far as the mid-stitch, 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= mid-stitch), 1 yarn over, knit until there are 2 stitches left, knit 2 together.
ROW 4 (wrong side): Knit 2 together, knit to end of row.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 onwards (i.e. on rows from the right side you increase 2 stitches and decrease 1 stitch, on rows from the wrong side you decrease 1 stitch; the number of stitches remains the same).
When you have worked 20 rows (= 10 ridges), work pattern as follows:
Work A.1 with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side – if there are not enough stitches to work the decrease and the yarn over (on 3rd and 9th row in A.1), knit these stitches, AT THE SAME TIME, continue to increase and decrease as before. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

Continue with alternately 10 ridges and A.1 until you have increased 80 times on each side of the marker = 134 stitches (160 rows).
Continue with the pattern (= alternately 10 ridges and A.1 1) decreasing and increasing as before, AT THE SAME TIME at the beginning of each row from the right side, casting off alternately 2 and 3 stitches. When you have worked a total of 7 repeats of A.1 in height finish the piece with garter stitch (continue to decrease at the beginning of each row from the right side). When there are 9 stitches left, cast off.
Cut and fasten the strand.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row purl the yarn over to leave a hole)
symbols = knit 2 together
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 226-26

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Comments / Questions (28)

country flag Claire Noël De Tilly wrote:

Qu’entendez-vous par maille lisière? Est-ce qu’on fait la maille lisière seulement dans la section A1? (Non spécifiée dans la première section) Comment faire la maille lisière si nous tricotons 2 mailles ensemble en fin et début de rang tel que spécifié dans les explications de la section A1? Merci de m’aider.

14.10.2024 - 04:39

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme De Tilly, lorsque l'on tricote A.1, on tricote la 1ère et la dernière maille toujours au point mousse - cette maille est déjà comprise dans le nombre de mailles, avant que l'on tricote A.1 les mailes lisières sont simplement la première et la dernière maille de chaque rang. Quand vous n'avez pas suffisamment de mailles pour le motif complet (1 diminution et son jeté), tricotez les mailles à l'endroit. Bon tricot!

14.10.2024 - 09:42

country flag Christine wrote:

Bonjour Le 1er rang est il : 1m endroit, 1 jeté, 1m endroit, 1 jeté, 130m endroit et 2m ensemble à l'endroit ? Merci par avance pour votre réponse. Cordialement. Christine

05.09.2024 - 11:23

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Christine, tout à fait, en tricotant jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 2 mailles, vous tricoterez 130 mailles. Bon tricot!

06.09.2024 - 07:47

country flag Jessica wrote:

Det står att man ska sticka mönster A1 med en kantmaska i varje sida och samtidigt fortsätta med ökn och minskn som innan. Gäller detta på varje varv i mönster A1, dvs första, 3e, 5e varvet osv gör man omslag på båda sidor om mittmaskan och stickar ihop sista två maskorna och på 2a, 4e,6e varvet osv stickar man ihop de första två maskorna? Hur gör man då med kantmaskor i sidan där man stickar ihop de två sista/första maskorna - ska kantmaskan vara utanför den minskningen?

29.08.2024 - 23:41

country flag Jessica wrote:

Hej! När det står att man ska börja diagrammet efter 20 varv rätstickning, menas det efter de allra första 20 varven (inklusive allra första varvet) eller börjar man räkna där det står varv 1? Det är ju ett varv rätstickning först menar jag.

23.08.2024 - 19:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Jessica. Start å räkna där det står varv 1. mvh DROPS Design

26.08.2024 - 10:56

country flag Schranz, Renate wrote:

Ich habe das Modell bm-88 gestrickt. Wird nach dem 7. Rapport A1 auf der linken Seite weiter in jeder Reihe abgenommen? Ich freue mich auf ihre Antwort! Vielen Dank

14.08.2024 - 16:11

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Schranz, nach dem 7. Rapport A.1 strickt man nur Krausrechts anstatt A.1 aber wie zuvor wird man ab- und zunhemen sowie abketten, dh genauso wie zuvor stricken nun mit Krausrechts anstatt A.1.. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

16.08.2024 - 07:21

country flag Rosario Puerto wrote:

Yo he tejido el patrón y no me sale como está en la fotografía por el lado que empiezo es una punta pero cuando estoy terminando no soy capaz de dejarlo en nueve puntos, si me lo puede explicar de nuevo. Gracias un saludo

10.07.2024 - 17:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Rosario, al final del patrón alternas entre cerrar 2 y 3 puntos al inicio de cada fila por el lado derecho, a la vez que trabajas el diagrama. Después de terminar con el diagrama, sigues cerrando como antes pero, en vez de trabajar el diagrama, los puntos se trabajan en punto musgo. Terminas de trabajar cuando te queden 9 puntos en la labor.

15.07.2024 - 01:04

country flag VALENTINA wrote:

Esiste una versione con uncinetto?

21.05.2024 - 15:22

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Valentina, questo modello è lavorato a maglia: se naviga sul nostro sito può trovare altri modelli all'uncinetto. Buon lavoro!

22.05.2024 - 23:28

country flag Suzanne Ozorak wrote:

Started this pattern but by the 30th row- it dors not serm right….the shape is wrong. I would really like to make it…

01.03.2024 - 19:52

country flag Vivian wrote:

Hallo liebes Team, wird das Tuch ohne Randmaschen gestrickt? Also werden z.B am Anfang immer die äußersten beiden Maschen zusammengestrickt und somit eine abgekettet? Oder wie muss ich die Anleitung verstehen?

26.12.2023 - 12:29

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Vivian, es wird keine extra Randmaschen gestrickt, die gesamte Maschenanzahl ist inkl. die 1. und die letzte Masche. So bei den Hinreihen stricken Sie die 2 letzten Maschen zusammen und bei den Rückreihen stricken Sie die 2 ersten Maschen zusammen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

02.01.2024 - 08:33

country flag Claudine Azoulay wrote:

Bonjour, Ce châle peut-il se tricoter avec des aiguilles droites? Merci.

02.11.2023 - 18:34

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Azoulay, tout à fait, on utilise ici une aiguille circulaire pour avoir suffisamment de place pour y loger toutes les mailles, vous pourrez donc tricoter sur aiguilles droites, vos mailles seront juste plus serrées, pensez à bien conserver la bonne tension. Retrouvez plus d'infos sur les aiguilles circulaires ici. Bon tricot!

03.11.2023 - 06:29