Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
= knit from right side, purl from wrong side | |
= knit from wrong side | |
= knit 2 together | |
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch | |
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over | |
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; the yarn over is worked twisted on the next row to avoid a hole | |
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches | |
= increase row; on this row increase stitches evenly, see description in text | |
= this square is not a stitch, go straight to next symbol in diagram |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Agnes Cardi |
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Knitted vest with round yoke in DROPS Sky. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 197-14 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth): 1 ridge = Knit 2 rows. RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round): 1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Choose diagram for your size. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side. ELEVATION (for back of neck): The elevation is worked in garter stitch. Insert 1 marker thread after 63-66-69-72-75-78 stitches (= approx. mid back). Start from the right side and knit as far as 7-8-8-9-9-10 stitches past the marker thread, turn, tighten the strand and knit 14-16-16-18-18-20 stitches back. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 21-24-24-27-27-30 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and knit 28-32-32-36-36-40 stitches back. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 35-40-40-45-45-50 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and knit 42-48-48-54-54-60 stitches back. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 49-56-56-63-63-70 stitches back, turn, tighten the strand and knit to end of row. INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced): To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 102 stitches) minus the bands (= a total of 10 stitches = 92 stitches) and divide these stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 25) = 3.68. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch. On the next row, work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body): All increases are made from the right side. Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 stitches (the marker thread sits in the middle of these stitches) 1 yarn over. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch. BUTTONHOLES: Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together and knit the last stitch. On the next row, knit the yarn over to leave a hole. The first buttonhole is worked when the piece measures approx. 1½-2 cm. The second buttonhole is worked when the piece measures 7 cm / 2¾". Then work the next 4-4-5-5-6-6 buttonholes with 8½-8½-7½-7½-7-7 cm between each one. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- VEST - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: The piece is worked back and forth, top down with circular needle as far as the armholes. Then the body and sleeves are finished separately. The body is continued back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles. YOKE: Cast on 102-106-110-118-122-128 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side of the piece) with circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and Sky. Work 2 RIDGES – read description above. Knit 1 round from the right side and increase 25-27-29-27-29-29 stitches evenly on row – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 127-133-139-145-151-157 stitches. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Change to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. For a better fit, you can now work an elevation in the back of the neck so that the yoke is slightly higher at the back. This elevation can be left out; the neck will then be the same front and back – read ELEVATION. Work BUTTONHOLE on right band – read description above. Then work pattern as follows from the right side: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 (= 8 stitches), A.2 (= 6 stitches) over the next 102-108-114-120-126-132 stitches (= 17-18-19-20-21-22 times in width), A.3 (= 7 stitches) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. On each row with a star (= increase-row) increase as follows: REMEMBER THE GAUGE! INCREASE 1: Increase 24-24-24-24-30-30 stitches evenly on row = 151-157-163-169-181-187 stitches. A.2 is then repeated 21-22-23-24-26-27 times in width. INCREASE 2: Increase 18-18-24-24-24-30 stitches evenly on row = 169-175-187-193-205-217 stitches. A.2 is then repeated 24-25-27-28-30-32 times in width. INCREASE 3: Increase 12-18-18-24-24-24 stitches evenly on row = 181-193-205-217-229-241 stitches. A.2 is then repeated 26-28-30-32-34-36 times in width. When A.1 to A.3 have been worked 1 time in height, the piece measures approx. 8 cm / 3⅛" from the cast-on edge. Then work as follows from the right side: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, 1 stitch stockinette stitch, A.4 (= 13 stitches), work A.5 (= 12 stitches) over the next 156-168-180-192-204-216 stitches (= 13-14-15-16-17-18 times in width), 1 stitch stockinette stitch and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. When A.4 and A.5 have been worked 1 time in height there are 307-343-365-404-427-450 stitches on the needle. The piece measures approx. 21-22-22-24-24-24 cm / 8 ¼"-8⅝"-8⅝"-9⅜"-9⅜"-9⅜". Continue back and forth in stockinette stitch until the piece measures 21-23-24-26-28-29 cm / 8 ¼"-9"-9⅜"-10 ¼"-11"-11⅜". Now divide the piece for body and sleeves as follows: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, stockinette stitch over the next 42-47-50-57-62-66 stitches, place the next 64-72-78-82-84-88 stitches on a thread for sleeve edge and cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve, work stockinette stitch over the next 85-95-99-116-125-132 stitches, place the next 64-72-78-82-84-88 stitches on a thread for sleeve edge and cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve, work 42-47-50-57-62-66 stitches stockinette stitch and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch = 195-215-229-260-283-298 stitches. BODY: Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under each sleeve. Work stockinette stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side. When the piece measures 2 cm / ¾" from where the body was divided from the sleeves, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 3½-4½-4-6-5-3½ cm a total of 6-5-6-4-5-7 times = 219-235-253-276-303-326 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch until the piece measures 30-30-31-31-31-32 cm / 11 ¾"-11 ¾"-12⅛"-12⅛"-12⅛"-12 ½" from where the body was divided from the sleeves. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work garter stitch until the piece measures 32-32-33-33-33-34 cm / 12 ½"-12 ½"-13"-13"-13"-13⅜" from where the body was divided from the sleeves. Bind off with knit. The piece measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26" from the shoulder down. SLEEVE EDGE: Place the 64-72-78-82-84-88 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve = 72-80-88-92-96-100 stitches. Work 3 RIDGES in the round – read description above. Then bind off with knit. The sleeve edge measures approx. 2 cm / ¾". Work the other sleeve edge in the same way. ASSEMBLY: Sew the buttons onto the left band. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogs and 11422 patterns - 11417 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (14)
Jennifer Carvalho wrote:
After A4 and A5 have been completed do I measure from mid front or from the shoulder to separate the body for sleeves?
09.06.2023 - 14:26DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Carvalho, measure from cast on edge towards mid front/front band stitches. Happy knitting!
12.06.2023 - 08:07EW wrote:
Guten Tag, ich stricke Grösse L und habe nach der 1. Zunahme 163 M auf der Nadel. Wenn ich A.2 weiter stricke habe ich zuviele Maschen übrig. Wie geht es beim Diagramm genau weiter?
13.05.2023 - 07:55DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Ew, so stricken Sie die 163 Maschen: 5 Blenden-Maschen krausrechts, A.1 (= 8 Maschen), A.2 (= 6 Maschen) insgesamt 23 Mal, A.3 (7 Maschen) und 5 Blenden-Maschen krausrechts. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
15.05.2023 - 08:00Stina Byrval wrote:
Jeg kan kun finde denne opskrift med korte ærmer i damestørrelse. Har tidligere strikket børnestørrelse med korte ærmer og er blevet bedt om at strikke den igen i en større børnestørrelse, men kan kun finde opskriften til børn med lande ærmer i drops
23.10.2022 - 13:48DROPS Design answered:
Hej Stina, vi har den kun med lange ærmer til børn: DROPS Children 34-9 men da den er strikket oppefra og ned, så stopper du bare når du ikke vil have ærmerne længere :)
25.10.2022 - 13:42MARIE ARMELLE AGNES AQUILINA wrote:
Je pense qu'il y a une erreur au 1er rang de A4 et A5 dans le dernier A5 ne faudrait-il pas faire l'augmentation après le motif dans les 3 mailles jersey de manière à avoir la symétrie des 2 côtés 5 mailles au début et à la fin car si on suit la grille on se retrouve avec 5 mailles au début du rang et 4 mailles à la fin ?
29.05.2022 - 19:24DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Aquilina, les diagrammes sont justes ainsi, les augmentations faites alternativement au début/à la fin du diagramme permettent d'ajuster le nombre de mailles pour que le motif ajouré soit centré - vous tricotez 1 x A.4, répétez A.5 et terminez par 1 m jersey (entre les mailles de bordure des devants). Bon tricot!
30.05.2022 - 08:24Edith wrote:
Hvor kan jeg læse brystmål mm så jeg kan afgøre om jeg skal strikke en størrelse M eller L?
15.07.2021 - 20:55DROPS Design answered:
Hej Edith. Du finner alla mål i cm längst ner på opskriften på måleskitsen. Mvh DROPS Design
16.07.2021 - 09:47Tiina wrote:
Jag undrar om det finns ett fel i förhöjningen. Om jag följer beskrivningen hamnar jag efter alla 7 vändningar tillbaka till varvets början och inte till varvets slut. Det måste fattas något i beskrivningen eller annars är det en vändning för mycket i beskrivningen.
08.05.2021 - 21:34Strickliesel wrote:
Anleitung 197-4. Nach 3. Zunahme 181 Maschen, habe ich jetzt auch auf der Nadel. Dann geht's weiter mitA4/A5, da sind es aber nur 156M + je 5 Blendenmaschen +je 1 Kraus rechts. Stricke ich die Reihe,so wie angegeben, bleiben Maschen übrig......oder lese ich es falsch? Habe die Reihe schon 3×aufgetrennt. Danke schonmal im Vorraus.
18.05.2019 - 14:48DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Strickliesel, so stricken Sie die 181 Maschen: 5 Blenden-Maschen, 1 Masche glatt rechts, A.4 (= 13 Maschen), A.5 (= 12 Maschen) x 13 Mal (= über die nächsten 156 Maschen), 1 Masche glatt rechts und enden mit 5 Blenden-Maschen = 5 + 1 + 13 + 12x13 + 1 + 5= 181 Maschen. Diagram lesen Sie von unten nach oben (hier lesen Sie mehr über Diagramme). Viel Spaß beim stricken!
20.05.2019 - 10:16Morag wrote:
The Norwegian comment on July 12 translates as Named after my lovely daughter. Is this the designer? It is turning out to be a lovely design too.
25.09.2018 - 19:03Morag wrote:
Thank you
25.09.2018 - 18:50Morag wrote:
I am making size large. After the words “remember the knitting tension”I should have 163 stitches (153+10) I am then to work a pattern of 6 stitches. 153 does not divide evenly into 6. What am I to do with the extra stitches?
22.09.2018 - 06:22DROPS Design answered:
Dear Morag, after you have increased 24 sts you will now repeat A.2 a total of 4 more times like this: K5, A.1, repeat A.2 over the next 138 sts, A.3, K5 = 5+8+138+7+5= 163 sts. On next increase, you will increase 24 sts again = you will repeat A.2 a total of 4 more times and so on. Happy knitting!
24.09.2018 - 08:07