The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
All measurements in charts are in cm.
= off white | |
= cerise | |
= light pearl grey | |
= P with light pearl grey | |
= 1 YO | |
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Forest Dance |
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Knitted dress with Nordic pattern in DROPS Karisma. Size children 3 - 12 years.
DROPS Children 27-9 |
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INCREASE TIP: Inc with YO, on next round K YO twisted to avoid holes. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.3. See diagram for size! KNITTING TIP: To avoid the knitting gauge to tighten when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle no when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight. RIDGE: (worked in the round): 1 ridge = 2 rounds. K 1 round and P 1 round. ---------------------------------------------------------- DRESS: Worked in the round, top down. YOKE: Cast on 84-88-92-96-100 sts on a small circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with light pearl gray. Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid back). Work rib = K 2/P 2 for 3-3-4-4-5 cm / 1"-1"-1½''-1½''-2'' (= neck edge). Switch to a short circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. K 1 round while at the same time adjusting no of sts to 78-84-90-98-105. Then work an elevation at the back in stockinette st as follows: K 8 sts past marker, turn, tighten yarn and P 16 sts on return, turn, tighten yarn and K 24 sts, turn, continue by working 8 sts more on every turn until a total of 48-48-64-64-80 sts have been worked, turn and K 1 round until marker mid back again. Then work A.1 (= 13-14-15-14-15 repetitions in width) - see diagram for size. READ KNITTING TIP! REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE Switch to a longer circular needle when there are enough sts. When A.1 has been worked, there are 208-224-240-252-270 sts on needle. Work 0-0-1-0-1 cm / 0"-0"-½"-0"-½" with light pearl gray. Piece now measures approx. 15-15-16-17-18 cm / 6"-6"-6 1/4"-6 3/4-7'' mid front (measured without rib in the neck). Work with light pearl gray and in stockinette st until finished measurements. First work 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc 4-4-4-12-10 sts evenly = 212-228-244-264-280 sts. Work next round as follows: Work 31-33-35-37-39 sts, slip the next 44-48-52-58-62 sts on 1 stitch holder for sleeve (without working them first), cast on 6 new sts, work 62-66-70-74-78 sts (= front piece), slip the next 44-48-52-58-62 sts on 1 stitch holder for sleeve (without working them first), cast on 6 new sts, work 31-33-35-37-39 sts. BODY: = 136-144-152-160-168 sts. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Now insert 6 markers in the piece as follows: Insert 1st marker at beg of round (= side), 2nd marker after 24-25-26-27-28 sts, 3rd marker after another 20-22-24-26-28 sts, 4th marker after another 24-25-26-27-28 sts (= side), 5th marker after another 24-25-26-27-28 sts, 6th marker after another 20-22-24-26-28 sts (24-25-26-27-28 sts remain on round after last marker). When piece measures 3 cm / 1'', inc as follows: Inc 1 st on each side of 1st and 4th marker, inc 1 st after 2nd and 5th marker and 1 st before 3rd and 6th marker – READ INCREASE TIP (= 8 sts inc). Inc every 2-2½-2½-3-3 cm / 3/4"-7/8"-7/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8" 13-13-14-14-15 times in total = 240-248-264-272-288 sts. When piece measures 29-34-38-42-46 cm / 11½"-13½"-15"-16½"-18", dec 0-2-0-2-0 st evenly on round = 240-246-264-270-288 sts, then work according to A.2. When A.2 has been worked one time vertically, there are 280-287-308-315-336 sts on round. Work 2 RIDGES - see explanation above, and bind off. SLEEVE: Slip sts from one stitch holder on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6, cast in addition on 6 sts mid under sleeve (insert 1 marker in the middle of these sts) = 50-54-58-64-68 sts. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work in stockinette st in the round with light pearl gray. When sleeve measures 2 cm / 3/4'', dec 1 st on each side of marker. Repeat dec every 4½-3½-4-3-3½ cm / 1 3/4"-1 1/4"-1½"-1"-1 1/4" 5-7-7-10-10 times in total = 40-40-44-44-48 sts. When piece measures 20-25-29-32-36 cm / 8"-9 3/4"-11½"-12½"-14 1/4", adjust no of sts to = 42-42-48-48-48. Work A.3, when A.3 has been worked one time vertically, there are 49-49-56-56-56 sts on round. Work 2 ridges in garter st, bind off. Work the same way over the sts on the other stitch holder. ASSEMBLY: Sew the openings under the sleeves. CROCHET EDGE: Work a finishing edge around the bottom of dress on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 as follows with light pearl gray: 1 sc in first st, * ch 3, 1 dc in 1st ch worked, skip 2 or 3 sts, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc from beg of round. Fasten off. Crochet the same way around the sleeves. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogs and 11422 patterns - 11417 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (70)
Mc wrote:
Ce modèle m'a séduite, j'ai acheté la laine pour le réaliser .... Il figure dans mes favoris, seulement, comme souvent, il aura disparu de mes choix, lorsque je me déciderai à le tricoter. Comment faire pour conserver ses favoris plusieurs mois ? Merci
30.11.2017 - 10:33DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mc, vous pouvez utiliser plusieurs adresses mails si nécessaire, ou bien imprimez déjà les explications pour le garder sous le coude. Bon tricot!
30.11.2017 - 13:31Lindis Rokstad wrote:
Hei. Mener det er feil i oppskriften. Når halsen er ferdig så skal det felles ifølge oppskrift, men det mener jeg blir galt for det er vel mer naturlig å øke etter hals?
22.11.2017 - 15:56Monica wrote:
Is de omslag van de eerste rij van A2 een gaatje of een meerdering?
14.06.2017 - 11:00DROPS Design answered:
Hoi Monica, Het is zowel een gaatje als een meerdering. Je maakt een omslag en deze brei je in de volgende toer recht, waardoor er een gaatje ontstaat en je één steek hebt gemeerderd.
16.06.2017 - 10:03Kristine wrote:
Hei, Når du skal flytte begynnelsen av omgangen, mener du da å kutte tråden og flytte til midten av dei 6 maskene eg lagde under armen?
17.04.2017 - 15:08DROPS Design answered:
Hei Kristine. Man flytter ikke begynnelsen av omgangen. Ved f.eks str ¾ år og ved 212 masker på omgangen, så strikkes det på neste omgang 31 masker (=halve bakestykket), sett de neste 44 maskene på en egen tråd (til 1.erm), deretter legges det opp 6 nye masker (du bruker da tråden du strikket de 31 første maskene på omgangen). Strikk 62 masker (=forstk), sett de neste 44 maskene på en egen tråd (til 2.erm). Så legger du opp 6 nye masker (du bruker da samme tråd du strikket de 62 m til forstykket) og strikk de siste 31 maskene på omgangen (den andre halvdelen av bakstykket). God fornøyelse!
20.04.2017 - 13:30Ghislaine wrote:
Bonjour,Dans l'explication du modèle n°u-069-bn, ( 105 mailles) après avoir tricoté la ré-hausse,l'explication me guide directement vers le diagramme à tricoter 15x en largeur ! Viennent directement 270 mailles, sans que je ne troue comment procéder pour arriver à ces 270 mailles .quelque choses m'échappe!Pouvez vous m'aider à comprendre? Merci et que la journée vous soit agréable.Ghislaine
06.04.2017 - 12:21DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Ghislaine, vous tricotez 15 fois A.1 en largeur, soit au 1er tour: 15 x 7 m = 105 m - vous allez augmenter en même temps comme indiqué dans le diagramme pour terminer avec 18 m dans chaque A.1, soit 15 x 18 m = 270 m. Bon tricot!
06.04.2017 - 13:48Monica wrote:
Mijn dochter vindt dit echt een hele mooie jurk, maar ze heeft een maat groter dan de grootste maat die staat aangegeven. Hoe kan ik dit patroon een maat vergroten?
26.01.2017 - 20:20DROPS Design answered:
Hoi Monica. Ik zou met hulp van de stekenverhouding, de afmetingen van je dochter en de afmetingen hieronder op de maatschema het aantal st opnieuw berekenen en aanpassen.
30.01.2017 - 15:51Raquel wrote:
Hola los aumentos del canesú se hacen con el vídeo de la lazada o con el otro vídeo de aumento con derecho retorcido? Gracias
21.01.2017 - 02:26DROPS Design answered:
Hola Raquel. Los aumentos se trabajan haciendo 1 lazada donde indican los diagramas, en la siguiente vuelta las lazadas se trabajan de derecho retorcido; este método se explica en el vídeo "Aumento 5" bajo el patrón
22.01.2017 - 18:43Lucile wrote:
Bonjour, Je n'ai pas trouvé combien de pelotes il me fallait en fonction de la taille du modèle que je choisissais. Merci de votre aide!
17.01.2017 - 09:09DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Lucile, vous trouverez le poids total nécessaire pour chaque couleur en fonction de la taille choisie sous l'onglet "Fournitures". Bon tricot!
17.01.2017 - 09:38Lena wrote:
Hej, jag fick ihop klänningen och den är jättefin, men den har rullat upp sig nerifrån. På er bild är den jättevacker där nere, är den blockad på något speciellt sätt?
09.01.2017 - 12:52DROPS Design answered:
Hej Lena. Du kan godt blokke den eller presse den let med et strygejern (laeg et fugtigt viskestykke imellem), for at faa kanten paen glat.
09.01.2017 - 14:40LENA wrote:
Hej, Exakt vart under armen är början då? Med vänlig hälsning
19.12.2016 - 17:14DROPS Design answered:
Hej Lena. Du starter midt bag: Nästa v stickas så här: Sticka 31-33-35-37-39 m, sätt följande 44-48-52-58-62 m på 1 tråd till ärm (utan att sticka dem först), lägg upp 6 nya m, sticka 62-66-70-74-78 m (= framst), sätt följande 44-48-52-58-62 m på 1 tråd till ärm (utan att sticka dem först), lägg upp 6 nya m, sticka 31-33-35-37-39 m.
21.12.2016 - 14:23