DROPS / 168 / 8

Blue Mist by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper in garter st with vents and ties at the front in ”Kid-Silk”. Size S-XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no ks-110
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
100-100-100-125-125-150 colour no 08, grey blue

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 5.5 mm – or size needed to get 17 sts x 34 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.80 £ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 3.80 £ /25g
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DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 3.80 £ /25g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row K YO twisted to avoid holes.
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JUMPER:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. The entire jumper is worked in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Work the front first, then work over the shoulders and work top down on back piece.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 31-35-37-41-45-49 sts on circular needle size 5.5 mm with Kid-Silk. Work 1 ridge (1st row = RS), insert a marker here that shows RS on piece. Then cast on new sts on end of row as follows: Cast on 2 sts on every row 7-8-9-11-12-14 times in each side and 1 st on every row 5-6-7-7-10-12 times in each side, then cast on 1 st of every other row 9-8-7-6-4-2 times in each side = 87-95-101-111-121-133 sts. Piece measures 18 cm. Insert a marker in each side (marks vent in the sides). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION Continue back and forth until piece measures 32-34-34-36-36-38 cm. On next row from RS divide the piece to get a vent mid front as follows: Work the first 43-47-50-55-60-66 sts and slip them on a stitch holder for left front piece, cast off next st for vent, then work the remaining 43-47-50-55-60-66 sts (= right front piece).

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Continue back and forth over sts for right front piece until piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm. Now cast on new sts for sleeve at the end of every row from RS as follows: Cast on 2 sts 4-4-4-4-6-7 times, 3 sts 3-3-3-3-1-0 times and 14-11-11-7-6-2 sts 1 time = 74-75-78-79-81-82 sts. When piece measures 48-50-51-53-54-56 cm, cast off for neck on next row from RS as follows: Cast off the first 6-6-6-6-7-7 sts, then cast off on every row from neck 2 sts 2 times in all sizes and 1 st 1-1-2-2-2-2 times = 63-64-66-67-68-69 sts. Continue back and forth until piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm. Insert a marker here = shoulder. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE.

Now continue back and forth on back piece until piece measures 3 cm. On next row from RS inc 1 st inside 1 st in garter st towards the neck - READ INCREASE TIP = 64-65-67-68-69-70 sts. Work 1 row from WS. Slip sts on a stitch holder and work left front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Slip the 43-47-50-55-60-66 sts from stitch holder back on circular needle. Beg from WS (= at vent) and continue back and forth in garter st. When piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm, cast on new sts for sleeve at the end of every row in the side as follows: Cast on 2 sts 4-4-4-4-6-7 times, 3 sts 3-3-3-3-1-0 times and 14-11-11-7-6-2 sts 1 time = 74-75-78-79-81-82 sts. When piece measures 48-50-51-53-54-56 cm, cast off for neck on next row from WS as follows: Cast off the first 6-6-6-6-7-7 sts. Then cast off on every row from neck 2 sts 2 times in all sizes and 1 st 1-1-2-2-2-2 times = 63-64-66-67-68-69 sts. Continue back and forth until piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm. Insert a marker here = shoulder. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE.

BACK PIECE:
Continue back and forth until piece measures 3 cm. On next row from RS inc 1 st inside 1 st in garter st towards the neck = 64-65-67-68-69-70 sts. Work 1 row from WS. Now work over all sts, before casting on 21-21-23-23-25-25 sts for neck and then work the 64-65-67-68-69-70 sts from stitch holder on to needle = 149-151-157-159-163-165 sts. When piece measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm, cast off sts for sleeves in each side at the beg on every row as follows: 14-11-11-7-6-2 sts 1 time, 3 sts 3-3-3-3-1-0 times, 2 sts 4-4-4-4-6-7 times = 87-95-101-111-121-133 sts. When piece measures 42-44-46-48-50-52 cm, insert a marker in each side (marks vent in each side).
Then cast off sts on the start of row as follows: Cast off 1 st on every other row 9-8-7-6-4-2 times in each side, then cast off 1 st on every row 5-6-7-7-10-12 times in each side and finally 2 sts on every row 7-8-9-11-12-14 times in each side = 31-35-37-41-45-49 sts remain. Work 1 ridge in garter st and loosely cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the garment double at the shoulder = where the marker is. Sew side and sleeve seams in one in outer loops of edge sts down to vent. Make sure that to avoid a tight seam. Cut and fasten the yarn.

TIE:
Cut 6 strands of 270 cm each, twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the string double so that it twines again. Tie a knot in each end at desired length and cut the ends (tie on picture is approx. 135 cm). Cross the tie through sts on WS over vent on jumper as shown in A.1. NOTE: Dotted line shows tie on WS of garment.

Diagram



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 168-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (21)

Inger Fjelstad Edvardsen 12.06.2020 - 14:43:

Hei. Hvor står det hva man legger opp til ryggen på denne oppskriften. ? Drops 168-8.

DROPS Design 12.06.2020 kl. 15:36:

Hej inger, Genseren strikkes frem og tilbake i RILLER – først strikkes forstk, deretter strikkes det over skuldrene og nedover bakstk. God fornøjelse!

Danielle 22.02.2020 - 19:44:

Je suis occupée à tricoter mon 7ème tellement c'est une vêtement chaud et léger à porter. J'adore ce modèle

Cécile 25.09.2019 - 12:42:

Merci de votre réponse. Donc si je comprends bien... 1 rang = 1 aller-retour ?

DROPS Design 25.09.2019 kl. 14:07:

Bonjour Cécile, 1 rang = 1 rang, en revanche, on augmente à la fin de chaque rang (= 11 x 2 m et 7 x 1 m) puis on augmente à la fin de tous les 2 rangs seulement (on monte les mailles en fin de rang, on tourne et on tricote le rang suivant en augmentant en fin de rang, on tourne et on tricote 2 rangs sur toutes les mailles sans augmenter, et on répète ces 4 rangs 6 fois au total. Bon tricot!

Cécile 24.09.2019 - 20:13:

Bonjour, Vous dites au début, paragraphe 'devant', que l'ouvrage doit mesurer 18cm. Mais comment cela est-il possible, si l'echantillon fait 10cm avec 34 rangs, qu'il en fasse 18cm avec 31 rangs (version XL) ? Et mon ouvrgae ne fait qu'une dizaine de centimes au plus haut. Je ne comprends pas cette indication, car il faut monter à 36cm ensuite. Merci de votre aide.

DROPS Design 25.09.2019 kl. 08:16:

Bonjour Cécile, on doit avoir tricoté 60 rangs dans toutes les tailles, soit en XL: 11 fois 2 m tous les rangs = 22 rangs + 7 x 1 m tous les rangs = 14 rangs + 6 x 1 m tous les 2 rangs en fin de rang soit tous les 4 rangs = 24 rangs = 22+14+24=60 rangs. Bon tricot!

Wieteke 27.08.2019 - 11:35:

Ik kom er niet uit... steken opzetten aan elke kant (de goede kant en de achterkant) aan einde van de naald, dat is toch iedere naald die je breit steken erbij? Maar dan kom ik niet aan het aantal steken en cms... Wat lees ik verkeerd? Alvast dank!

DROPS Design 31.08.2019 kl. 13:14:

Dag Wieteke,

Ja, dat klopt; je zet aan het einde van iedere naald (dus zowel aan de goede als de verkeerde kant) nieuwe steken op. Je zet eerst elke naald aan het einde een aantal keren (afhankelijk van je maat) 2 steken op. Daarna elke naald een aantal keren 1 steek en tot slot om de naald een aantal keren 1 st. Nadat je alle steken op hebt gezet aan de zijkant, meet het werk ongeveer 18 cm in de hoogte.

Sandrine 06.04.2019 - 12:39:

Bonjour, pour une taille 38 habituellement, quelle taille choisir svp pour un rendu similaire à celui de la photo?

DROPS Design 06.04.2019 kl. 17:54:

Bonjour Sandrine! Le modèle en photo mesure environ 1.70 m et porte une taille S ou M. Si vous faites un garment vous trouverez en bas de la page un schéma avec toutes les mesures (en cm) du vêtement terminé. Si vous suivez les explications et gardez la bonne tension/le bon échantillon, votre vêtement aura la même taille que les mesures du schéma. Si vous ne savez pas quelle taille choisir, la solution peut être de mesurer un pull que vous avez et dont vous aimez la taille. Vous pouvez ensuite regarder les mesures dans le schéma et y trouver la bonne taille. Bon tricot!

Marta 27.03.2018 - 12:22:

Intanto grazie per la risposta. Ne approfitto per chiarirmi bene le idee ed essere sicura di fare bene il progetto. Lo schema di "avviare alla fine del ferro",parla di aumenti solo più avanti , ma voi mi avete scritto "aumentare all'inizio e alla fine"..quindi devo aumentare o avviare nuove maglie a lato?? Scusatemi e grazie ancora tantissimo

DROPS Design 27.03.2018 kl. 14:17:

Buongiorno Marta. Per le maniche, le maglie sono da avviare. Buon lavoro!

Marta 26.03.2018 - 14:31:

Ciao! Ho qualche difficoltà nel comprendere alcuni passaggi. Innanzitutto non mi è chiaro se la maglia legaccio è intesa come tutti i giri a dritto, o un giro a dritto e uno a rovescio. Poi, quando viene detto, ade esempio nella prima parte" avviare nuove m alla fine del f: 2 m dubogni f 7-8-9-11-12-14 volte ogni lato " o "1 maglia a f alterni 9-8-7-6-4-2 volte ogni lato "esattamente cosa significa?? Grazie mille

DROPS Design 27.03.2018 kl. 10:55:

Buongiorno Marta, questo maglione è lavorato in piano, per cui la maglia legaccio si lavora sempre a diritto. Per gli aumenti, se ad esempio sta lavorando la taglia S, deve procedere come segue: deve aumentare 2 maglie su ogni ferro all'inizio e alla fine del ferro per 7 volte e poi 1 maglia all'inizio e alla fine del ferro ogni 2 ferri per 9 volte. Ci riscriva se ha ancora dei dubbi. Buon lavoro!

Bocquet 28.06.2017 - 16:13:

Modele réalise avec 3 pelotes, donc modele hyper léger, 75 g, et très agréable à porter sur un débardeur.

Geschwentner 21.05.2016 - 11:08:

Hallo, ich komme mit den Zahlen unten am Diagramm nicht klar. Sollen 50-55-58-64-70-77 Angaben in cm für die jeweiligen Größen sein? Wenn ja, was sind dann die Zahlen 88-89-92-94-96-97? Maschen können es nicht sein, weil von S nach M nur eine Masche mehr wäre, was unmöglich 5 cm ausmachen kann. Ich finde die Zahlen leider auch nicht in der Beschreibung.

DROPS Design 23.05.2016 kl. 09:14:

Hallo Frau Geschwentner, in der Schnittübersicht finden Sie jeweils die Masse in cm angegeben und die Zahl bezieht sich auf den mit kleinen Strichen markierten Bereich. Die 88-89-92-94-96-97 cm sind die gesamte Breite von Ärmelbündchen zu Ärmelbündchen.

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