DROPS / 166 / 28

Heavenly Blue by DROPS Design

DROPS ponožky s ažurovým a copánkovým vzorem pletené z příze "Fabel". Velikost: 35-43.

  • Heavenly Blue / DROPS 166-28 - DROPS ponožky s ažurovým a copánkovým vzorem pletené z příze Fabel. Velikost: 35-43.
DROPS design: model č. fa-323
Skupina přízí: A
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Velikost: 35/37 – 38/40 – 41/43
Délka chodidla: asi 22-24-27 cm

Materiál: DROPS FABEL firmy Garnstudio
100-100-100 g, barva č.103, šedomodrá

DROPS PONOŽKOVÉ JEHLICE č.2,5 – nebo velikosti potřebné k upletení zkušebního vzorku o rozměrech 26 ok x 34 řad lícovým žerzejem = 10 x 10 cm.

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Zkušební vzorek – Podívejte se, jak ho měřit a proč
Náhradní příze – Podívejte se, jak změnit přízi
Skupina přízí A až F – Neměňte návod, změňte přízi
Spotřeba příze při použití náhradní příze – Využijte náš převodník
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75% vlna, 25% polyamid
od 70.00 Kč /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 70.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 75.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 81.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
needles Jehlice a háčky Objednat
Přízi na tento model můžete mít už za 350Kč. Více zde.

Návod

VZOR:
Viz schéma A.1.

TVAROVÁNÍ PATY:
1. ŘADA (= lícová): pleteme po posledních 6-6-7 ok v řadě, následující oko sejmeme hladce, 1 oko upleteme hladce a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme, otočíme práci.
2. ŘADA (= rubová): pleteme po posledních 6-6-7 ok v řadě, následující oko sejmeme obrace, 1 oko upleteme obrace a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme, práci otočíme.
3. ŘADA (= lícová): pleteme po posledních 5-5-6 ok v řadě, následující oko sejmeme hladce, 1 oko upleteme hladce a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme, otočíme práci.
4. ŘADA (= rubová): pleteme po posledních 5-5-6 ok v řadě, následující oko sejmeme obrace, 1 oko upleteme obrace a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme, práci otočíme.
Tímto způsobem pokračujeme v ujímání (vždy o 1 oko snížíme počet ok zbylých v řadě), až nám v řadě zůstane 12-14-14 ok.
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PONOŽKA:
Pleteme v kruhových řadách na ponožkových jehlicích.
Na ponožkové jehlice č.2,5 nahodíme přízí Fabel 72-72-72 ok a upleteme 1 kruhovou řadu lícovým žerzejem. Pak pleteme nad všemi oky vzor A.1a (= v kruhové řadě máme 4 sekvence vzoru A.1). Po dokončení 1 celé sekvence vzoru A.1a (na výšku) pokračujeme vzorem A.1b (= 76 ok).
Ve výši 19-20-21 cm odložíme prvních 45 ok na pomocnou jehlici (oka před odložením nejprve upleteme, = nárt), posledních 31 ok ponecháme na jehlici (= pata). Nad oky paty upleteme v řadách lícovým žerzejem 5-5,5-6 cm výšky, SOUČASNĚ upravíme v 1. řadě celkový počet ok na výsledných 22-24-26 ok. Do pleteniny umístíme značku.
Nyní TVARUJEME PATU – viz výše. Po dokončení tvarování nabereme po obou stranách paty 11-11-12 ok a odložených 45 ok vrátíme z pomocné jehlice zpět na jehlice = 79-81-83 ok. Na každou stranu těchto 45 ok nártu umístíme značku. Nad oky nártu pokračujeme vzorem A.1b jako dříve, chodidlo pleteme lícovým žerzejem – SOUČASNĚ ujímáme na každé straně, takto: poslední 2 oka PŘED první značkou na nártu splétáme hladce a první 2 oka ZA druhou značkou na nártu splétáme hladce za zadní nit. Toto ujímání opakujeme v každé 2. kruhové řadě celkem 8x = 63-65-67 ok. Pleteme do výše 18-19-21 cm od značky na patě (= zbývá doplést asi 4-5-6 cm). Nyní vložíme do pleteniny na obou stranách značku tak, že na horní straně, nártu, leží 31-32-33 ok a na dolní straně, chodidle, leží 32-33-34 ok. Pleteme lícovým žerzejem nad všemi oky a SOUČASNĚ tvarujeme špičku – ujímáme na obou stranách obou značek, takto:
PŘED značkou splétáme 2 oka hladce, ZA značkou splétáme 2 oka hladce za zadní nit. Takto ujímáme na obou stranách v každé 2. kruhové řadě celkem 4-7-9x a poté ještě v každé kruhové řadě celkem 6-4-3x = 23-21-19 ok. V následující kruhové řadě spleteme každá 2 oka hladce = 12-11-10 ok. Přízi odstřihneme, protáhneme zbylými oky, stáhneme a zapošijeme.
Stejným způsobem upleteme i druhou ponožku.

Schéma

symbols = hladce
symbols = obrace
symbols = 1x nahodíme mezi 2 oky
symbols = 2 oka spleteme hladce
symbols = 1 oko sejmeme hladce, 1 oko upleteme hladce a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme
symbols = 3 oka odložíme na pomocnou jehlici PŘED práci, 3 oka hladce, 3 oka z pom.jehlice hladce
symbols = zde není žádné oko, čtvereček přeskočíme - slouží jen pro přehlednost schématu
symbols = 1 oko sejmeme hladce, následující oko rozpleteme na dvě a sejmuté oko přes ně přetáhneme
symbols = 1 oko sejmeme hladce, 2 oka spleteme hladce a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme
diagram
signature

Potřebujete poradit s tímto návodem?

Děkujeme, že jste si vybrali návod DROPS Design. Zakládáme si na tom, že dáváme k dispozici návody ověřené a snadno srozumitelné. Všechny návody jsou přeložené z norského originálu a tak si můžete kdykoli srovnat rozměry a počty s původním návodem (DROPS 166-28) .

Máte s návodem potíže? Níže najdete seznam odkazů, které vám pomohou dokončit vaše dílo co nejdříve - nebo se třeba přiučit něco nového.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Pořídili jste si přízi DROPS na tento model? Pak máte taky právo žádat po svém prodejci, u něhož jste nakoupili, pomoc a rady. Seznam DROPS obchodů najdete tady!
Pořád se nemůžete dobrat odpovědi, kterou hledáte? Pak posuňte stránku dolů a napište nám svůj dotaz, naši specialisté se vám pokusí poradit. Obvykle to zvládneme během 5 až 10 pracovních dnů.. Mezitím si můžete pročíst otázky a odpovědi, které k tomuto modelu položili ostatní, nebo navštívit skupinu DROPS Workshop na Facebooku, kde vám může poradit některá spřízněná duše!

Komentáře / Otázky (7)

country flag Melinda De Lange 17.10.2017 - 15:57:

Hej! Jag har en fråga angående att sticka sockor: I alla mönster jag hittar ska man lägga upp 60-90 (!) maskor för att börja, men det blir en alldeles för stor "strumpöppning" för mina vader. Är det jag som tänker fel? Kan man minska och anpassa efter sig själv, och hur ska man tänka isåfall, gällande mönster? Jag har ett grövre, isländskt garn, och stickor 2mm. Tack!

user icon DROPS Design 18.10.2017 kl. 17:45:

I just den här modellen stickas det flätmönster, så då behövs det ganska många maskor för att omkretsen ska bli rätt. Du kan naturligtvis anpassa efter egna mått, se då till att mönsterrapporterna går upp i maskantalet.

country flag Karin Nordvik 21.09.2017 - 23:07:

Får ikke mønsteret til å stemme i a1b. Får bare en maske der jeg skal strikke en rett,ett kast,en rett

user icon DROPS Design 22.09.2017 kl. 14:01:

Hei Karin. Hvordan har du strikket ikonet der det er 3 masker med en diagonal strek på? Det er ikke 3 rett sammen (= 1 maske), men ta 1 m løs av p, STRIKK 2 m rett, løft den løse m over = 2 masker. Da har 2 masker på neste omgang og da strikker du 1 rett, 1 kast, 1 rett. God Fornøyelse!

country flag Denis 10.08.2016 - 22:08:

Bonjour, Lorsqu'on attaque le talon, il est dit : «EN MÊME TEMPS, au 1er rang, ajuster le nombre de mailles à 22-24-26.» Est-ce que ça veut dire qu'on doit tout de suite faire des diminutions sur le premier rang ? Si oui, de quel type ? Deuxième petite question : juste après, on me demande de placer un marqueur. À quel endroit et à quoi sert-il ? Merci d'avance, Denis

user icon DROPS Design 15.08.2016 kl. 09:19:

Bonjour Denis, diminuez le nbe de mailles nécessaires pour ajuster à votre taille en tricotant 2 m ens à l'end à intervalles réguliers (cf ici - les marqueurs se posent de chaque côté du pied comme expliqué dans la vidéo ci-dessous. Bon tricot!

country flag Bourgarel 30.01.2016 - 19:04:

Qué save dire le symbole du diagramme "carré noire" et qui dit "pas de mailles, sauter cette case" merci d'avance de votre réponse

user icon DROPS Design 01.02.2016 kl. 09:42:

Bonjour Mme Bourgarel, lorsque vous avez les mailles sur les aiguilles, vous avez à ce moment-là uniquement: 1 m end, 1 jeté, 1 m end (la maille en question a été diminuée au rang précédent) - la vidéo ci-dessous montre comment faire cette torsade ajourée (modèle et diag. différents mais même technique). Bon tricot!

Anne How 20.06.2015 - 08:33:

Great design combining cable and lace stitches. Anne Australia

country flag Leonoor 09.06.2015 - 13:20:

Mooie steken en kabels!

country flag Sylvie 28.05.2015 - 13:52:

Des chaussettes avec un point aussi raffiné, c'est exactement ce que j'aime ! Bravo pour ce modèle !

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