DROPS / 159 / 29

Angela by DROPS Design

DROPS raglánový pulovr s krajkovými rukávy pletený z příze "Muskat". Velikost: S-XXXL.

DROPS design: model č. r-669
Skupina přízí: B
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Velikost: S – M – L – XL – XXL - XXXL

Materiál: DROPS MUSKAT firmy Garnstudio
450-500-550-600-650-750 g, barva č.07, světlá žlutá

DROPS PONOŽKOVÉ JEHLICE a KRUHOVÉ JEHLICE (60 a 80 cm) č.4 – nebo velikosti potřebné k upletení zkušebního vzorku o rozměrech 21 ok x 28 řad lícovým žerzejem nebo 24 ok x 28 řad vzorem = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS PONOŽKOVÉ JEHLICE a KRUHOVÉ JEHLICE (40 a 80 cm) č.3,5 – na lemy.

Vyrobili jste si tento nebo nějaký jiný z našich modelů? Přidejte ke svým fotkám na sociálních sítích tag #dropsdesign - díky tomu je uvidíme i my!

Chcete použít jinou přízi? Zkuste náš převodník!
Nejste si jistí, kterou zvolit velikost? Třeba by vám pomohla informace, že modelka na obrázku je vysoká asi 170 cm a nosí velikost S nebo M. Pokud chcete plést/háčkovat pulovr, kabátek, šaty nebo podobný kousek, najdete dole pod návodem nákres s jednotlivými mírami v cm.

100% bavlna
od 60.00 Kč /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 60.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
Jehlice a háčky
Přízi na tento model můžete mít už za 540Kč. Více zde.

Návod

VROUBKOVÝ VZOR:
Pleteme střídavě 1 kruhovou řadu hladce, 1 obrace. 1 vroubek = 2 kruhové řady.

KRAJKOVÝ VZOR:
Viz schéma A.1; zobrazeny jsou všechny řady vzoru nahlížené z lícové strany.

RAGLÁNOVÉ ZKOSENÍ:
V každém místě, kde se stýkají rukávy a trup, ujmeme 2 oka, takto - začínáme 3 oka před značkou:
2 oka spleteme hladce, 2 oka upleteme hladce (značka leží mezi nimi), 1 oko sejmeme hladce, 1 upleteme hladce a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme.
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PULOVR:
Pleteme v kruhových řadách na kruhové jehlici.
Na kruhovou jehlici č.3,5 nahodíme přízí Muskat 184-200-216-240-264-288 ok a upleteme 2 vroubky vroubkovým vzorem – viz výše. Pleteninu převedeme na kruhovou jehlici č.4 a vložíme do ní 2 značky: jednou značkou označíme začátek kruhové řady, druhou umístíme za 92.-100.-108.-120.-132.-144. oko. Pleteme lícovým žerzejem. Ve výši 6 cm ujmeme na každé straně každé značky 1 oko a toto ujímání opakujeme vždy po 7-7-8-8-9-9 cm výšky, celkem 3x = 168-184-200-224-248-272 ok. Ve výši 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm uzavřeme 4 oka na každé straně každé značky (= 8 uzavřených ok na každé straně pleteniny - průramky). Nyní máme 76-84-92-104-116-128 ok zadního a stejný počet ok předního dílu.

RUKÁV:
Pleteme v kruhových řadách na ponožkových jehlicích.
Na ponožkové jehlice č.3,5 nahodíme přízí Muskat 56-58-60-62-64-66 ok a upleteme 2 vroubky. Pleteninu pak převedeme na ponožkové jehlice č.4 a označíme si začátek kruhové řady. Pleteme takto: 5-6-7-8-9-10 ok obrace, vzor A.1 (= 21 ok) – opakujeme 2x, upleteme první 4 ok vzoru A.1, 5-6-7-8-9-10 ok obrace. V tomto rozvržení vzorů pokračujeme a SOUČASNĚ ve výši 8 cm přidáme 1 oko na každé straně značky. Přidávání opakujeme vždy po 3-2,5-2,5-2-2-2 cm výšky, celkem 15-16-17-18-19-20x = 86-90-94-98-102-106 ok. Přidaná oka pleteme obrace. Ve výši 52-52-51-51-50-50 cm (u větších velikostí je rukávová hlavice širší a delší, začínáme ji tedy tvarovat dříve) uzavřeme na každé straně značky 4 oka = 78-82-86-90-94-98 ok. Díl odložíme a stejným způsobem upleteme druhý rukáv.

SEDLO:
Rukávy a trup převedeme na stejnou kruhovou jehlici (rukávy přiložíme k trupu v místech uzavřených pro průramky) = 308-332-356-388-420-452 ok. Označíme si všechna místa, kde se stýkají rukávy a trup (= 4 značky). Nad trupem pleteme dále lícovým žerzejem, nad rukávy pokračujeme krajkovým vzorem a obrace, jako dosud; SOUČASNĚ v následující kruhové řadě začneme tvarovat raglánové zkosení – viz výše (= ujmeme 8 ok). Toto ujímání opakujeme v každé 2. kruhové řadě ještě 20-21-22-22-23-24x, pak ujímáme v každé kruhové řadě, celkem 3-4-5-7-8-9x; při posledním raglánovém ujímání ujmeme navíc na každém rukávu 8 ok rovnoměrně nad vzorem A.1. Po dokončení veškerého raglánového ujímání zbývá na jehlici 108-116-124-140-156-172 ok. Pleteninu převedeme na krátkou kruhovou jehlici č.3,5 a upleteme 2 vroubky. SOUČASNĚ v první kruhové řadě ujmeme rovnoměrně 8-14-18-28-40-52 ok = 100-102-106-112-116-120 ok. Poté všechna oka uzavřeme.

DOKONČENÍ:
Sešijeme otvory v podpaží.

Schéma

= hladce
= obrace
= 3 oka spleteme hladce
= 3 oka spleteme hladce za zadní nit
= 1x nahodíme mezi 2 oky
= 2 oka odložíme na pomocnou jehlici ZA práci, 2 oka upleteme hladce, 2 oka z pom.jehlice hladce


Potřebujete poradit s tímto návodem?

Děkujeme, že jste si vybrali návod DROPS Design. Zakládáme si na tom, že dáváme k dispozici návody ověřené a snadno srozumitelné. Všechny návody jsou přeložené z norského originálu a tak si můžete kdykoli srovnat rozměry a počty s původním návodem (DROPS 159-29) .

Máte s návodem potíže? Níže najdete seznam odkazů, které vám pomohou dokončit vaše dílo co nejdříve - nebo se třeba přiučit něco nového.

Máme takopodrobné rozpisy různých technik a postupů krok za krokem - najdete je zde.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

nahoru

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

nahoru

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

nahoru

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

nahoru

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

nahoru

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

nahoru

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

nahoru

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

nahoru

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

nahoru

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

nahoru

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

nahoru

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

nahoru

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

nahoru

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

nahoru

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

nahoru

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

nahoru

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

nahoru

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

nahoru

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

nahoru

Pořídili jste si přízi DROPS na tento model? Pak máte taky právo žádat po svém prodejci, u něhož jste nakoupili, pomoc a rady. Seznam DROPS obchodů najdete tady!
Pořád se nemůžete dobrat odpovědi, kterou hledáte? Pak posuňte stránku dolů a napište nám svůj dotaz, naši specialisté se vám pokusí poradit. Obvykle to zvládneme během 5 až 10 pracovních dnů.. Mezitím si můžete pročíst otázky a odpovědi, které k tomuto modelu položili ostatní, nebo navštívit skupinu DROPS Workshop na Facebooku, kde vám může poradit některá spřízněná duše!

Komentáře / Otázky (36)

Marit Tvervåg 19.09.2019 - 12:07:

Hei! Det står at 8 masker skal felles over A1 øverst på armen. Nå gjentas A1 to ganger på armen, skal det da felles 8 masker over hver mønsterrapport?

DROPS Design 02.10.2019 kl. 11:46:

Hej Marit, Du skal felle 8 masker jævnt fordelt på hvert ærme. God fornøjelse!

Guez Gilda 31.07.2019 - 19:53:

Bonjour, je ne sais pas tricoter en circulaire. serait-il possible d'avoir ce modèle en aiguilles droites ? Dos et devant pour les manches je sais tricoter sur aiguilles doubles pointes mais du coup il faudrait l'explication pour les diminutions du raglan Merci beaucoup pour votre réponse

DROPS Design 01.08.2019 kl. 21:57:

Bonjour! Regardez la lecon qui traite de ce sujet: ICI. Bon tricot!

Petra Epperlein 22.05.2019 - 07:04:

Hallo, habe den Pullover fast fertig, komme nun aber nicht weiter. Ich habe wie beschrieben für Größe S die 20 Raglanabnahmen gestrickt, nun heißt es: dann in jeder Rd. 3 x arbeiten - pro Rd. sind es doch 4 Raglanabnahmen, wie ist das gemeint? Vielen Dank und liebe Grüße

DROPS Design 22.05.2019 kl. 09:26:

Liebe Frau Epperlein, für Größe S muss man insgesamt 21 x in jeder 2. Runde abnehmen (= die erklärte Abnahme + 20 weitere Mal), dann nehmen Sie wie zuvor ab, aber in jeder 3. Runde (= noch 3 Runde stricken gleichzeitig nehmen Sie für den Raglan bei jeder dieser 3 Runde wie zuvort ab). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Vibeke Røsvik 18.05.2019 - 15:10:

Strikker denne i størrelse L, men er tom for garn før genseren er ferdig... Vanvittig irriterende! Dere bør vurdere å øke mengde garn i oppskriften.

Encolurette 07.06.2018 - 18:12:

Bonjour, Le patron de ce pull semble indiquer, comme tous les patrons de pulls raglan que j'ai vus sur votre site, que l'encolure devant est plus échancrée que dans le dos. Mais je n'arrive pas à comprendre comment c'est possible en lisant les explications du modèle (pas davantage pour les autre modèles raglan). Pourriez-vous m'éclairer sur ce point ? Merci d'avance, et merci aussi pour tous ces superbes modèles mis à disposition !

DROPS Design 07.06.2018 kl. 18:19:

Bonsoir Encolurette! Dans ce modele l'encolure dos et devant sont identiques. Bon tricot!

Carol Flaherty 01.02.2018 - 13:55:

I am making this pattern in a large. I find that the cuffs of the sleeves are too large. Is there a way to start the sleeve in a size small and make it join the sweater properly at the other end?

DROPS Design 01.02.2018 kl. 14:29:

Dear Mrs Faherty, you will then have to recalculate the pattern so that it fit the desired measurements - we cannot provide any individual adjustment, but you are welcome to contact your store even per mail, telephone or on social media for any personnal assistance. Happy knitting!

Marie Ispas 27.12.2017 - 08:37:

Il s'agit du modèle Angela. DROPS Design Modèle nr-669 groupe de fils B Les diminutions raglan sont les même pour le devant et le dos.Alors,d'où vient la différence de 6 cm.au cou,entre le dos et devant?

DROPS Design 02.01.2018 kl. 08:45:

Bonjour Mme Ispas, ces 6 cm correspondent aux manches, quand on pose l'ouvrage à plat, les mailles des manches forment une petite partie un peu plus haute (épaules). Bon tricot!

France Savard 04.02.2017 - 13:27:

Pourquoi Est-ce que le point mousse du bas retrousse toujours? Que faire pour qu'elle tombe? Aussi, une note sur l'arrondissement final autour du cou, j'ai dû le défaire et enlever les dernières diminutions car beaucoup trop petit comme ouverture. J'attend votre suggestion pour le bas de mon chandail. Merci.

DROPS Design 06.02.2017 kl. 09:24:

Bonjour Mme Savard, vous pouvez bloquer le pull: humidifiez-le et faites le sécher à plat, à l'aide d'épingles inoxyables si besoin. Bon tricot!

Yara Crowther 29.11.2016 - 05:45:

Hi, Which decrease method is better for the body jumper? Thank you for your help, Kind regards, Yara

DROPS Design 29.11.2016 kl. 09:16:

Dear Mrs Crowther, you can dec with ssk before marker and K2 tog after marker. Happy knitting!

A De Groot-Posset 23.09.2016 - 20:33:

Het patroon klopt hoor. Zelf een reken fout gemaakt. Vriendelijke groet Atty

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