The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
All measurements in charts are in cm.
= K from RS, P from WS | |
= P from RS, K from WS | |
= K 2 tog | |
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso | |
= 1 YO between 2 sts |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Summer Snug |
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Knitted DROPS jacket worked in a circle with lace pattern in ”Paris”. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS 154-8 |
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GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. SHORT ROWS: * Work 1 row over the first 10 sts on row, turn and work back. Work 1 row over the first 35 sts on row, turn and work back. Work 1 row over the first 51-57-63 sts on row, turn and work back. Work 1 row over all sts, turn and work back *. Repeat from *-*, i.e. 8 rows at the widest and 2 rows at the most narrow in 1 repetition. ---------------------------------------------------------- RIGHT FRONT/BACK PIECE: Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 86-92-98 sts on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with Paris. Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Then work pattern AT THE SAME TIME work SHORT ROWS – see explanation above (1st row = from RS): 5 sts in garter st, K 2, P 3, (turn here), K 2, A.1 (= 23 sts) (turn here), K 1, A.2A, A.2 B over the next 8-14-20 sts, A.2 C, K 2, (turn here), A.1(= 23 sts), K 2, P 3, K 2, 5 sts in garter st. Continue pattern until piece measures 40-42-44 cm / 15¾"-16½"-17¼" at the most narrow and 160-168-176 cm / 63"-66"-69" at the widest. Work 1 ridge over all sts and bind off. LEFT FRONT/BACK PIECE: Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 86-92-98 sts on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with Paris. Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above. K 1 row from RS. Then work pattern AT THE SAME TIME work SHORT ROWS – see explanation above (1st row = from WS - NOTE: Beg on 2nd row in A.1 and A.3): 5 sts in garter st, P 2, K 3, (turn here), P 2, A.1 (= 23 sts), (turn here), P 1, A.3A, A.3 B over the next 8-14-20 sts, A.3 C, P 2, (turn here), A.1 (= 23 sts), P 2, K 3, P 2, 5 sts in garter st. Continue pattern until piece measures 40-42-44 cm / 15¾"-16½"-17¼" at the most narrow and 160-168-176 cm / 63"-66"-69" at the widest. Work 1 ridge over all sts and bind off. ASSEMBLY: Sew tog the cast-on and bind-off edge. Place the two part towards each other so that the 5 sts in garter st in the widest side meet, and sew tog approx. 58-62 cm / 22¾"-24½" mid back, edge to edge – make sure that seam on the parts is mid under sleeve. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogs and 11422 patterns - 11417 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (154)
Ruth Jose wrote:
Lost three stitches on third turn! I have 19 stitches and 35=54. I should have 57
14.09.2015 - 23:52DROPS Design answered:
Dear Ruth Jose, remember to check your number of sts worked in each diagram, a good idea can be to add extra marker between each kind of pattern/diagram so that you can check if your number of sts match. Happy knitting!
15.09.2015 - 09:49Anna wrote:
Hoi , de rechterkant is klaar. Erg mooi! Maar nu de linkerkant, tot en met de eerste naald snap ik. Is het zo dat je nu het patroon breit op de achterkant en de voorkant gewoon volgt? En bij A1 krijg ik aan de voorkant de ene omslag goed maar de andere omslag gaat de verkeerde kant op ! Wat doe ik fout? Alvast bedankt Anna
10.09.2015 - 18:35DROPS Design answered:
Hoi Anna. Je begint met het breien van de 2e nld (verkeerde kant) en breit eerst de 2e nld van A.1 en A.3, maar het zou helemaal geen verschil maken hoe je het patroon op de goede kant breit, dus het omslag zou ook niet de verkeerde kant op gaan.
11.09.2015 - 14:05Joana wrote:
Que técnica aconselham para fazer as costuras do casaco, nomeadamente as que são para fazer as mangas? Podem disponibilizar algum vídeo para ajuda?
22.08.2015 - 00:18DROPS Design answered:
Na página dicas e vídeos encontra mais de 700 vídeos que mostram tudo oo que precisa de saber acerca das várias técnicas para tricotar os nossos modelos. Aqui fica a listagem dos vários tipos de costura que pode usar: https://www.garnstudio.com/lang/pt/video.php?sort=2&thumbnails=on&undercategoryid=9 Bom tricô!
24.08.2015 - 10:47Nicky wrote:
Hallo, ich bin da auch gestolpert. Bin immer wieder an der Anleitung an einer Stelle gescheitert. Wie unten vom Team schon aufgezählt wurde: * stricken Sie 5 kraus re, 2 re, 3 li, 2 re, A.1, 1 re, A.2A-A.2C, 2 re wenden und stricken zurück usw. Allerdings steht hier in der Schriftlichen Anleitung: * 2 M re, A.1 (= 23 M) ***(hier wenden)***, 1 M re, A.2A, A.2 B über die nächsten 8-14-20 M, A.2 C, 2 M re (hier wenden) Da ist doch ein *Wenden* (das mit den 3 Sternen) zu viel oder? Grüße Nicky
10.08.2015 - 02:34DROPS Design answered:
Es gibt ein Video zu den verkürzten R dieser Jacke, vielleicht schauen Sie sich das mal an, das erklärt vieles besser, Sie finden es im Kopf neben dem Foto unter Videos, es heißt "Stricken: Verkürzte Reihen und Muster für die Kreisjacke 154-8". Wenn noch Fragen offen sind, fragen Sie gerne wieder.
16.08.2015 - 18:30Hannah wrote:
So on the left side, the first row is knit every stitch? Ok, got it. thank you.
13.05.2015 - 15:47Hannah wrote:
Thank you. I finally figured it out. It's a bit long winded but I got there. When knit the left back, it says work 1 row, then pattern. When Starting the LEFT side it says knit 1 row. Am I right in thinking this 1st row will be...... K5gs P2, K3, P2, A1(23sts), K1, A3A, A3B (8sts), A3C, K2, A1, K2 P3 K2 K5gs? Then start on row 2 of the pattern knitting 10sts, turn etc. Am I right?
13.05.2015 - 15:29DROPS Design answered:
Dear Hannah, the pattern is correct as written, but short rows are worked from WS too, ie work 1st row from WS: K5 garter st, P2, K3, turn and work return row from RS, and continue short rows as for right piece, but turning on row from WS. Happy knitting!
13.05.2015 - 16:19Hannah wrote:
Thank you. I finally figured it out. It's a bit long winded but I got there. When knit the left back, it says work 1 row, then pattern. Do I work the 7th row of the the pattern - all 86 stitches? And I knit A.1 and A.3 Left to right? Then I start the next row on row 2 of the pattern on the 10 stitches, then turn etc? Am I right?
12.05.2015 - 20:59Hannah wrote:
Thank you. I finally figured it out. It's a bit long winded but I got there. When knit the left back, it says work 1 row, then pattern. Do I work the 7th row of the the pattern - all 86 stitches? And I knit A.1 and A.3 Left to right? Then I start the next row on row 2 of the pattern on the 10 stitches, then turn etc? Am I right?
12.05.2015 - 19:09Hannah wrote:
Thank you. I finally figured it out. It's a bit long winded but I got there. When knit the left back, it says work 1 row, then pattern. Do I work 1 full row? And I knit A.1 Left to right - am I right?
12.05.2015 - 16:38DROPS Design answered:
Dear Hannah, on left piece, K 1 row from RS over all sts, then start short rows and pattern from WS, ie starting on 2nd row in A.1 and A.3. Happy knitting!
13.05.2015 - 09:32Hannah wrote:
Hi, I have never knitted a drops pattern before, I am used to knitting the patterns that tell you how to work each row; so I'm a bit confused as to what I need to do. So far I have cast on 86 stitches and knitted 2 rows in garter stitch. What do I have to do next?
12.05.2015 - 13:05DROPS Design answered:
Dear Hannah, you then continue working in pattern and short rows at the same time: 2 rows over 10 sts (=5 sts in garter st, K 2, P 3), then 2 rows over 35 sts = the first 10 sts + K 2, A.1 (= 23 sts), then 2 rows over 51 sts = the first 35 sts + K 1, A.2A, A.2 B over the next 8 sts, A.2 C, K 2 and 2 rows over all sts = the first 51 sts + A.1(= 23 sts), K 2, P 3, K 2, 5 sts in garter st. Happy knitting!
12.05.2015 - 13:26