DROPS / 149 / 32

Blue Nile by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket in "Verdi". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no ve-039
Yarn group D
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS VERDI from Garnstudio
Colour no 03, blue/light blue/beige:
350 g in all sizes
Garment weight: approx. 200-220-245-270-295-325 g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 6 mm - or size needed to get 14 sts x 16 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
DROPS Verdi DROPS Verdi
48% Acrylic, 20% Wool, 17% Polyester, 15% Mohair
Discontinued
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.
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JACKET:
Piece is worked back and forth in 2 parts and sewn tog when finished.

LEFT PART:
Left back and front piece are worked in one from mid back of back. Worked back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the sts. Cast on 91-91-99-99-107-107 sts on circular needle size 6 mm with Verdi. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Work next row as follows (from RS): 3 edge sts in garter st, K 4, * P 4, K 4 *, repeat from *-* over the next 80-80-88-88-96-96 sts, 4 edge sts in garter st. When piece measures 13-14-15-16-17-18 cm, dec the last edge st on row (seen from RS) = 90-90-98-98-106-106 sts. Continue pattern. When piece measures 83-84-85-86-87-88 cm, cast on a new edge st at the end of row (seen from RS) = 91-91-99-99-107-107 sts. Work until piece measures 96-98-100-102-104-106 cm. Continue pattern, AT THE SAME TIME work short rows over piece as follows – 1st row = from RS: Work until 8 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Work until 16 sts remain on row, turn and work back. Continue with short rows, every time you work from RS, work 8 sts less than on previous short row. Continue with short rows until there is 19 sts left on needle, now work 2 ridges over all sts, cast off.

RIGHT PART:
Work as left part but reversed, work 1st row with pattern as follows – from RS: 4 edge sts in garter st, K 4, * P 4, K 4 *, repeat from *-* over the next 80-80-88-88-96-96 sts, 3 edge sts in garter st. When piece measures 13-14-15-16-17-18 cm, dec first edge st on row (seen from RS). When piece measures 83-84-85-86-87-88 cm, cast on a new edge st at beg of row (seen from RS). When working short rows, start from WS.

ASSEMBLY:
See measurement chart. Sew A against A and B against B. Sew D against D. Sew C against C.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 03.10.2014
Last sentence under LEFT PART:
...Continue with short rows until there is 19 sts left on needle, now work 2 ridges over all sts, cast off.

Diagram



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 149-32) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (45)

Natalie Paquet 10.09.2019 - 20:17:

I just started this project. I've restarted it a few times now. My work looks like it's all in garter stitch. The pics look like stockinette stitch. Is it the same row repeated over and over? K7, P4K4 repeat to last 4 sts, K4 therefore end with K8. This row repeated over and over give it a garter stitch look. Am I reading this pattern completely wrong?

DROPS Design 11.09.2019 kl. 07:51:

Dear Mrs Paquet, you will work rib K4/P4 with 3 stitches in garter st in one side (beg of row from RS) and 4 sts in garter st on the other side (end of row from RS), ie from RS work: K3, K4, repeat P4, K4 until 4 sts remain and end with K4. From WS work K over K and P over P, starting with K4 and ending the row with K3. Happy knitting!

Petra 05.03.2019 - 20:47:

Was heißt 3 M kraus rechts stricken bzw. 4 M kraus rechts stricken?

DROPS Design 06.03.2019 kl. 09:25:

Liebe Petra, am Anfang der Hinreihen stricken Sie 3 Maschen kraus rechts (= diese 3 Maschen werden jede Reihe rechts gestrickt), am Anfang der Hinreihen stricken Sie 4 Maschen kraus rechts (= diese 4 Maschen werden jede Reihe rechts gestrickt). Inzwischen stricken Sie die Maschen im Bündchen: 4 M re, *4 li, 4 re*, von *-* wiederholen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Cecilia 26.01.2018 - 17:25:

Salve vorrei realizzarlo ma con maniche,da quale modelli posso ricavarle.grazie

DROPS Design 25.07.2018 kl. 14:50:

Buongiorno Cecilia, per questo tipo di aiuto può chiedere consiglio al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

Christine Stewart 23.04.2016 - 11:38:

I am about to start knitting this and have absolutely no clue as to what size I should use. Because of the construction method the measurements on the diagram don't help either. I can't find anything on your website that gives even a rough guide as to what would be the appropriate sizes for S to XXXL. Is the finished bust measurement 4 x the width - between 64 and 75cm? That doesn't sound right. How much ease is allowed? Can you please help? Christine in Australia

DROPS Design 25.04.2016 kl. 09:53:

Dear Mrs Stewart, you will find in the measurement chart the finished measurements that will help you to find out the matching sizes: D = cast on row (middle line at the bottom of back piece), C = cast off row (middle line at the top of back piece) - both A and B are respect. armholes. You can then find easily the matching size. Happy knitting!

Sonja 19.10.2015 - 18:48:

Hoi Ben met het patroon bezig en net gestart met de verkorte toeren ... heb dit nog nooit gedaan nu mijn vraagje ... de 18steken van de 1ste naald moet je deze gewoon in rij 2 overbreien of blijven deze ongebreid staan .. Mvg Sonja

DROPS Design 20.10.2015 kl. 16:04:

Hoi Sonja. Je breit eerst tot er 8 st over is, keren en brei terug. Dan tot er 16 st over is, keer en brei terug enzovoort. Dus je breit steeds heen en weer over 8 st minder voor elke keer. Als er 19 st over zijn op de nld, brei je 2 ribbels (4 nld) over alle st (dus ook over de st, die je eerder liet staan).

Evelyn Erens 24.07.2015 - 10:44:

Ich würde mir gerne diese Jacke stricken aber leider ist diese wolle nicht mehr zu bekommen.Welche Garnalternative können sie mir empfehlen ?

DROPS Design 28.07.2015 kl. 13:36:

Unsere Garne sind in Garngruppen aufgeteilt. Verdi gehörte in Gruppe D, Sie können also Garne dieser Gruppe für die Jacke verwenden. Alternativ können Sie Garne der Garngruppe A dreifach nehmen oder Garne der Garngruppe B zweifach. Um den Flauschcharakter zu erhalten, könnten Sie z.B. Kid-Silk aus Garngruppe A dreifach nehmen, oder 2 fäden Kid-Silk mit 1 Faden Alpaca kombinieren. Wichtig ist stets, dass die Maschenprobe stimmt, außerdem müssen Sie anhand der Originalgarns die benötigte Meterzahl berechnen und dies dann auf das Ersatzgarn umrechnen, damit Sie die passende Menge Garn kaufen.

Janin 19.01.2015 - 22:03:

Also wird der Anschlagrand nicht mitgemessen? Ist das richtig?

DROPS Design 21.01.2015 kl. 21:59:

Doch, Sie messen ab dem Anschlagrand, also ab da, wo das Strickstück beginnt. Alles, was Sie bis dahin gestrickt haben, wird gemessen.

Janin 18.01.2015 - 21:17:

Ich glaub die Vorderseite ist doch die Hinreihe. :-) wie messe ich die ersten 15 cm ab, komplett mit rand abmessen? Freue mch sehr über Ihre Hilfe. Werde mich bestimmt noch ein paar mal melden. Spätestens dann wenn es um die verkürzten Reihen geht ;-)

DROPS Design 19.01.2015 kl. 10:25:

Die cm-Angaben beziehen sich immer alle auf den Anschlagrand. Sie messen immer in Strickrichtung ab dem Anschlag. Zu den verkürzten R können Sie sich am besten vorher ein Video anschauen, im Kopf neben dem Foto unter "Videos", probieren Sie die verkürzten R vorher an einem Probestück aus. Sie sind einfacher, als man denkt. :-) Und fragen Sie gerne wieder, nichts ist blöder, als beim Stricken in Frust zu versinken, weil man etwas nicht versteht... :-)

Janin 18.01.2015 - 20:47:

Heisst von der Vorderseite aus gesehen das es die Rückreihe ist also das der Anfangsfaden links liegt? Hab ich das richtig verstanden, dass nach den ersten 15 cm nur die letzte Randmasche abnehmen muss? Warum wird dann nach 85 cm eine neue Masche angeschlagen? Warum? Vielen Dank im Voraus für Ihre Bemühungen und Ihr Verständnis

DROPS Design 19.01.2015 kl. 10:24:

"Von der Vorderseite aus gesehen" soll bedeuten, dass die letzte M gemeint ist, wenn das Gestrick mit der Vorderseite zu Ihnen zeigt. Somit also die letzte M einer Hin-R oder die erste M einer Rück-R. Die 15 cm messen Sie ab dem Anschlagrand. Und genau, Sie nehmen nur diese 1 M ab. Diese Abnahme und hinterher wieder Zunahme ist für die Armausschnitte - im Diagramm die "Vorsprünge" A und B (das Teil mit A ist das linke Teil). Das ist im Diagramm zur besseren Darstellung nicht ganz maßstäblich gezeichnet.

Janin 18.01.2015 - 10:21:

Vielen Dank für die schnelle Antwort. Wenn ich das dann richtig verstehe, dann hat die Jacke zwei Nähte einmal die senkrechte vom zusammennähen beider Teile und dann noch eine senkrechte Naht vom zusammennähen eines Teils? Hab ich das so richtig verstanden? Also ist der Anfang eines Teils mit einem Maschenanschlag von 99 (in Größe L) auf der linken Seite ab der waagerechten Naht nach unten? Sorry bin noch relativ neu. Danke für Ihr Verständnis

DROPS Design 18.01.2015 kl. 18:11:

Sie können die Nähte alle auf der Rückansicht sehen - 1 senkrechte, die eigentlich aus 2 Nähten besteht (oben C an C und unten D an D) und 1 waagerechte von Armausschnitt zu Armausschnitt, was auch eigentlich 2 Nähte sind (A an A und B an B). Und genau, der Anschlag läuft ab der waagerechten Naht nach unten. Orientieren Sie sich bei der Wahl der Größe auch an dem Maß für A und B, damit der Rücken nicht zu breit oder eng wird. Sie können gerne immer fragen.

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