DROPS Extra / 0-901

Take A Break by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS men's socks with rib in "Fabel". Size 15/17 - 44/46.

Tags: socks,
DROPS design: Pattern no fa-244
15/17 - 18/19 - 20/21 - 22/23 - (24/25 - 26/28 - 29/31 - 32/34) - 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43 - 44/46
Leg length:
6-7-8-9 (10-11-12-13) 14-15-16-17 cm.
Foot length:
10-11-12-13 (15-17-18-20) 22-24-27-30 cm.

Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
Colour no 804, blue/grey:
50-50-50-50-(50-50-100-100)-100-100-100-100 g
And use:
50 g for all sizes in colour no 103, grey blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm - or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 2.50 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
HEEL DECREASE (worked in stocking st):
Row 1 (= RS): Work until 6-7-7-7 (7-7-8-8) 7-7-8-10 sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 2 (= WS): Work until 6-7-7-7 (7-7-8-8) 7-7-8-10 sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 3 (= RS): Work until 5-6-6-6 (6-6-7-7) 6-6-7-9 sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 4 (= WS): Work until 5-6-6-6 (6-6-7-7) 6-6-7-9 sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 st less before each dec until 8-10-10-10 (10-10-12-12) 14-14-16-16 sts remain on needle.

Worked in the round on double pointed needles from mid back. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Cast on 44-48-52-52 (56-56-64-64) 64-68-72-76 sts evenly on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with colour no 103 (grey blue). Work rib as follows in the different sizes (NOTE! Different beg in the different sizes):
SIZE 15/17 - 29/31 - 32/34 - 35/37 - 38/40 - 44/46: P 1, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K 2 and P 1.
SIZE 18/19 - 20/21 - 22/23 - 24/25 - 26/28 -41/43: K 1, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with P 2 and K 1.
When piece measures 2 cm, switch to colour no 804 (blue/grey).
Continue with rib until piece measures 4-5-6-7 (8-9-10-11) 12-13-14-15 cm. Then work next round as follows: 9-11-11-11 (11-11-13-13) 13-13-15-17 sts rib, K the next 26-26-30-30 (34-34-38-38) 38-42-42-42 sts while AT THE SAME TIME dec 8-8-10-10 (12-12-8-6) 6-6-6-4 sts evenly (= K 18-18-20-20 (22-22-30-32) 32-36-36-38 sts), work rib over the remaining 9-11-11-11 (11-11-13-13) 13-13-15-17 sts = 36-40-42-42 (44-44-56-58) 58-62-66-72 sts. Continue with rib and stocking st until piece measures 6-7-8-9 (10-11-12-13) 14-15-16-17 cm. Now keep the first 9-11-11-11 (11-11-13-13) 13-13-15-17 sts on needle, slip the next 18-18-20-20 (22-22-30-32) 32-36-36-38 sts on 1 stitch holder (= mid on top of foot) and keep the last 9-11-11-11 (11-11-13-13) 13-13-15-17 sts on needle = 18-22-22-22 (22-22-26-26) 26-26-30-34 sts for heel. Work rib back and forth over heel sts for 3-3½-4-4 (4½-4½-5-5) 5-5½-6-6 cm. Insert a marker in the piece. Now dec for heel - SEE HEEL DECREASE! After heel decrease, pick up 8-9-10-10 (11-12-13-13) 13-14-16-16 sts on each side of heel and slip the 18-18-20-20 (22-22-30-32) 32-36-36-38 sts from the stitch holder back on needle = 42-46-50-50 (54-56-68-70) 72-78-84-86 sts. Insert 1 marker in each side of the 18-18-20-20 (22-22-30-32) 32-36-36-38 sts on top of foot. Continue in stocking st while AT THE SAME TIME dec in each side as follows: K the last 2 sts before the 18-18-20-20 (22-22-30-32) 32-36-36-38 sts on top of foot twisted tog (i.e. work in back loop of sts instead of front), K the first 2 sts after the 18-18-20-20 (22-22-30-32) 32-36-36-38 sts tog. Dec like this on every other round a total of 3-4-5-5 (6-6-10-10) 10-11-11-11 times = 36-38-40-40 (42-44-48-50) 52-56-62-64 sts. Continue working until piece measures 7-8-9-9 (11-13-14-16) 18-19-22-24 cm from the marker on the heel - 3-3-3-4 (4-4-4-4) 4-5-5-6 cm remain until piece is finished. Then insert 1 marker in the mid of each side so that there are 18-19-20-20 (21-22-24-25) 26-28-31-32 sts between the markers. Switch to colour 103 (grey blue), work with colour no 103 until finished measurements. Continue working stocking st over all sts while AT THE SAME TIME dec for toes on each side of the markers. Dec as follows before marker: K 2 tog. Dec as follows after marker: K 2 twisted tog. Dec like this in each side on every other round a total of 3-3-3-6 (6-6-5-5) 6-7-6-7 times and then on every round 4-4-4-2 (2-2-4-4) 4-4-6-6 times = 8-10-12-8 (10-12-12-14) 12-12-14-12 sts remain on needle. On next round work all sts tog 2 by 2. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten. Knit another sock.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-901) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (16)

Claudia Carolina 14.02.2020 - 16:25:

Spett.le Drops, grazie mille per tutti i modelli e i filati meravigliosi. Sto sferruzzando queste calze, per le persone che ho letto nei commenti fanno fatica a districarsi tra tutte le cifre, suggerisco di provare a ricopiare tutto il pattern segnando soltanto le misure corrispondenti alle taglie da lavorare io sto segnando per due taglie, perché mi serve un paio 41 e un altro 44. A me aiuta tanto scrivere. Grazie di nuovo. Claudia

Mélissa 27.10.2019 - 22:22:

Comment convertir les informations si j’ai un fil qui se tricote avec des aiguilles 4.5?

DROPS Design 04.11.2019 kl. 12:37:

Bonjour Mélissa, vous pouvez consulter les modèles analogues avec le fil utilisés ou bien le nombre de mailles de votre échantillon en utilisant notre moteur de recherches. Bon tricot!

Ulla 10.03.2019 - 09:25:

Ursäkta min tidigare fråga om hälen. Märker att jag själv gjort fel och förstår nu att hälen skall ha ribbstickning, inte slätstickning. 🙈

Ulla 09.03.2019 - 11:49:

Ska börja med hälen, men de första 15 maskorna är slätstickning och de 15 sista är ribbstickning. Ska inte hela hälen ha slätstickning?

Jane Marie 06.03.2019 - 00:14:

This pattern instructs 50 grams of the dark grey yarn, but I do not understand how much of the light grey yarn is needed? I also would like to thank you! Your videos make knitting socks SO much easier. The finished result is much neater; I just love it.

DROPS Design 06.03.2019 kl. 07:03:

Dear Jane Marie, you'll need 50 g of Fabel colour 103 and then for colour 804 the amount depends on which size are you working: for example, for size 15/17 is 50g. Happy knitting!

Jeanna 21.01.2019 - 08:04:

Så vidt jeg kan se, er der ingen rib-strikning, efter der er taget ind til hælen, hvorfor jeg ikke forstår: Videre strikkes næste omg således: rib, strik ret over de næste 26-26-30-30 (34-34-38-38) 38-42-42-42 m SAMTIDIG med der tages 8-8-10-10 (12-12-8-6) 6-6-6-4 m ind jævnt fordelt (= 18-18-20-20 (22-22-30-32) 32-36-36-38 m ret), strik rib over de resterende 9-11-11-11 (11-11-13-13) 13-13-15-17 m = 36-40-42-42 (44-44-56-58) 58-62-66-72 m. Fortsæt med rib

DROPS Design 29.01.2019 kl. 08:09:

Hei Jeanna. Det strikker vrangbord rundt hele skaftet, og videre ned over hælmaskene, til etter at hælfellingen er ferdig. Det avsnittet du henviser til der er rett etter at skaftet er ferdig. Maskene som minskes går over det glattstrikkede partiet oppå foten (disse settes på en tråd). Maskene som fortsettes og strikkes i vrangbord er hælmaskene. Når hælfellingen er ferdig strikkes alle masker videre i glattstrikk. God fornøyelse.

Monique Chrétien 16.01.2019 - 10:26:

Super mal expliqué, les diminutions talon avant le corps de la chaussette, de plus on ne sait pas cà quoi correspondent tous ces chiffres !

DROPS Design 16.01.2019 kl. 13:14:

Bonjour Mme Chrétien, nous sommes désolés de lire que vous avez eu des difficultés avec ce modèle. Ces chaussettes sont expliquées en 12 tailles différentes, du 15/17 au 44/46, chaque indication correspond à la taille, par ex la taille 38/40 est la 10ème taille, toutes les indications pour cette taille seront en 10è-me position à chaque fois. Pour toute assistance complémentaire, n'hésitez pas à consulter nos vidéos, poser votre question ici ou demander une assistance personnalisée au magasin où vous avez acheté votre laine. Bon tricot!

Eliane 27.04.2018 - 16:21:

Hello....love the video on you tube...but for me reading the pattern is very complicated....is there an other easier version of the written pattern? Thanks!

DROPS Design 06.05.2018 kl. 09:27:

Dear Elanie, there is no other written out version of this pattern. The videos should help you, and you can always ask for help in person at the store you bought your DROPS yarn from. Happy Knitting!

Anneliese 16.11.2017 - 16:33:

Liebe Nancy, Es wäre sehr hilfreich, wenn Sie die Telefon-Nummern. aus den verschiedenen Grössenangaben herauskorrigieren lassen würden, die beim Ausdrucken erscheinen. In der obigen Anleitung erscheinen sie nicht. Da hat sich wohl ein Programmierfehler eingeschlichen. Sehr verwirrend beim Suchen nach der richtigen Maschenanzahl bei Abnahmen usw.

Katarina Jirsa 18.11.2016 - 11:41:

Hei, jeg har gjort hæl felling, men vet ikke nå hvordan å strikke opp masker på hver side av hælen? Er der noen video som kan hjelpe meg? På forhånd takk, Katarina

DROPS Design 21.11.2016 kl. 15:31:

Hej Katarina. Ja, i denne video kan du se hvordan du strikker en hael og strikker op bagefter:

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