DROPS / 140 / 33

Anatolia by DROPS Design

Felted DROPS bag in ”Alaska”.

Tags: bags, felted, square,
DROPS design: Pattern no x-394
Yarn group C
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Measurements before felting: approx. 62 cm x 36 cm.
Measurements after felting: approx. 40 cm x 25 cm.

Materials: DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio
100 g colour no 23, brown
50 g colour no 54, purple
50 g colour no 53, dark pink
50 g colour no 58, mustard
50 g colour no 37, dark blue
50 g colour no 45, light olive
50 g colour no 57, denim blue
50 g colour no 11, dark red
50 g colour no 56, grey purple

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm (80 cm) - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm. After felting: approx. 20 sts x 34 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DARK BUFFELHORN BUTTON NO 536: 1 piece

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 1.80 £ /50g
DROPS Alaska uni colour DROPS Alaska uni colour 1.80 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Alaska mix DROPS Alaska mix 1.80 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
BAG: The entire bag is worked in stocking st, work 5 strips that are sewn tog when finished.

STRIP 1 (make 2):
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 20 sts on circular needle size 5 mm with colour no 54 and work 34 rows in each colour in the following order: Colour no 54, 53, 58, 37, cast off.

STRIP 2 (make 2):
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 20 sts on circular needle size 5 mm with colour no 56 and work 34 rows in each colour in the following order: Colour no 56, 11, 57, 45, cast off.

STRIP 3 (make 1):
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 20 sts on circular needle size 5 mm with colour no 45 and work 34 rows in each colour in the following order: Colour no 45, 57, 37, 58, 53, 54, 11, 56, cast off.

Sew strips tog sideways – see figure for placement. Sew the rest of strip 3 to short side on strip 1 and 2 in each side.

Knit up 200 sts around the upper edge of bag with colour no 23 on circular needle size 5 mm. Insert 1 marker in the middle st from one short side = beg of round. Work in stocking st in the round. When 3 cm have been worked, work as follows: K 8, 2 YO, K 2 tog, K 18, 2 YO, K 2 tog, K 38, 2 YO, K 2 tog, * K 18, 2 YO, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 3 times, K 38, 2 YO, K 2 tog, K 18, 2 YO, K 2 tog, K 10. On next row slip one YO off the needle and K the other YO – make sure that holes are made. Continue in stocking st. When piece measures 7 cm, work as follows: Cast off the first 40 sts on round, work 20 sts, cast off the remaining sts. Cut the thread. Work 28 rows in stocking st over the 20 sts, work next row as follows: Work 9 sts, 2 YO, K 2 tog, work the rest of row. On next row slip one YO off the needle and K the other YO – make sure that a hole is made. Work 5 rows in stocking st over all sts, cast off.

TIE:
Work a tube with 4 sts back and forth on circular needle size 5 mm as follows: Cast on 4 sts with colour no 23 and K 1 row. Then work as follows: * Slide all sts to the right side of needle without turning the piece, tighten thread and K over all sts *, repeat from *-* until tie measures 200 cm. Cut and fasten the thread.

FELTING:
Place the bag and the tie in the washing machine with a detergent without enzymes and optical bleach. Wash at 40 degrees with normal spin but no pre-wash. After wash shape the bag to the right size while still wet and leave to dry flat. At subsequent wash, wash the bag at regular wool programme.

Thread tie up and down the holes and tie ends tog inside the bag. Sew button on top of bag.

Diagram

= knitting direction
= colour change

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 140-33) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (112)

Birgit Steffen 23.06.2020 - 11:09:

Leider muss ich 50 g Farbe 23, braun nachbestellen, da die angegebenen 100 g nicht ausreichen, um den Taschenrand inkl. Klappe und Träger zu stricken. Bitte unbedingt direkt 50 g mehr bestellen! Die Tasche sieht ungefilzt sehr schön aus.

Odile 19.05.2020 - 23:33:

Bonjour Peut-on avant le feutrage faire passer le lien dans les trous et le mettre en place et feutrer le tout, sac +lien pour éviter que les trous ne se referment? Merci pour votre réponse

DROPS Design 20.05.2020 kl. 07:14:

Bonjour Odile, je passerai plutôt un collant/des mi-bas par exemple dans les trous du sac avant de le mettre en machine - On utilise cette technique dans cette vidéo - time code 3:26 env pour un autre modèle. Bon tricot!

Anita Christensen 16.02.2020 - 02:15:

Hej og tak for svar på farvespørgsmål. Jeg ser at Nepal har den farve som ikke findes i Alaska MEN mit spørgsmål til specielt Anatolia tasken er: når jeg ser på filtning af Alaska versus Nepal, skal jeg så gå en halv pindestørrelse op når jeg bruger Nepal til en firkant midt i arbejdet, for at få den samme filtning og uden at arbejdet bliver skævt og ødelagt. Tak og bedste hilsner, Anita i Danmark (jeg påtænker at strikke to af disse tasker)

Anita Christensen 08.02.2020 - 20:27:

Jeg kan ikke finde forhandlere med farve 56/grålilla i Danmark - hvilken farve vil I foreslå som erstatning? Tak og bedste hilsner, Anita Christensen

DROPS Design 10.02.2020 kl. 14:51:

Hei Anita. Farge 56 grålilla er utgått fra vårt sortiment. Den nærmeste fargen er nok farge: Lilla mel mix 54 (noe mørkere enn 56). mvh DROPS design

Maja 07.11.2019 - 16:54:

Jeg vil gerne lave tasken med én farve. Hvor meget garn skal jeg så ca. bruge?

DROPS Design 11.11.2019 kl. 14:41:

Hei Maja. Det har vi dessverre ikke oversikten over, men tipper rundt ca 400 gram. mvh DROPS design

Hengie 02.07.2019 - 13:06:

Bonjour et merci pour la réponse précédente mais j'ai un nouveau problème Je viens de rentrer le sac et il est très beau mais après feutrage les trous ont disparu ! Peut-on sans risque faire des incisions dans la laine feutrée sinon la bandoulière ne peut pas être montée. ... Merci pour votre aide ...

DROPS Design 02.07.2019 kl. 14:58:

Bonjour Hengie, nous n'avons pas d'expérience à ce propos, et, en fonction du poids mis dans le sac, il ne faudrait pas que les ouvertures se déchirent, essayez de bien retrouver ces trous (ils ne devraient pas être complètement fermés, raison pour laquelle on fait 2 jetés), et éventuellement, passez une aiguille dedans (quand le sac est encore humide) pour bien les repérer une fois secs. Bonnes finitions!

Hengie 28.06.2019 - 02:56:

Bonjour Comment monter la bandoulière sur le sac , les explications se contentent de " passer le lien dans les trous " mais j'avoue ne pas comprendre le montage Doit on ensuite coudre les 2 extrémités du lien ou faire un noeud ou quoi ?

DROPS Design 28.06.2019 kl. 06:59:

Bonjour Mme Hengie, effectivement, on enfile le lien dans les trous du sac, puis on coud les extrémités du lien entre elles sur l'intérieur du sac. Bonnes finitions!

Beate 15.01.2019 - 20:49:

Hallo, habe die Tasche gestrickt, sieht super aus. Habe jetzt gefilzt und auch bei mir sind alle Löcher " verschwunden ". Wieviele Löcher waren es ? Waren es insgesamt 8 um den Träger einzuziehen.

DROPS Design 16.01.2019 kl. 08:21:

Liebe Beate, ja genau, es waren 8 Löcher. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Monique 12.12.2018 - 10:22:

Magnifique modèle, facile à réaliser, bien conçu , ayant une bonne tenue et une fermeture efficace. Merci à l'équipe DROPS !

Anna 30.09.2018 - 08:48:

Ik heb een vraag over het aan elkaar naaien van de zijkanten van strook 3 aan de kopse kanten van stroken 1 en 2. Mijn proeflapje meet 17x23 naalden = 10x10 cm. Brei ik een kleurvlak van 20 steken en 34 naalden dan kom ik uit op 12x14,5-15 cm. Dat is een rechthoek, geen vierkant. Mijn vraag is: hoe naai ik de lange kanten van de rechthoek aan de korte kanten van stroken 1 en 2? Hartelijk dank alvast voor uw antwoord.

DROPS Design 30.09.2018 kl. 20:58:

Dag Anna, Bij het vilten is de krimp in de lengte en de breedte verschillend, zodat de rechthoeken na het vilten vierkant zijn (evt. proeflapje vilten in de wasmachine!). Bij het aan elkaar naaien van de lange kanten tegen de korte kanten, zul je het werk een beetje uit moeten rekken, zodat het mooi past. Zorg ervoor dat de kleurovergangen mooi tegenover elkaar komen.

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